lis 



r 



fJ^TERESTING ACCOUXT 

OF THE 

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS 



OF 



CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARKE, 

IN THE YEARS 1804 B, & 6« 

GIVING A FAITHFUL DESCRIFIION OF THE RIVER MISSOURI AXV 

ITS SOURCE-OF THE VARIOUS TRIBES OF INDIANS THROUGH 

WHICH THEY PASSED-MANNERS AND CUSTOMS-SOIL 

—CLIMATE— COMMERCE— GOLD AND SILVER 

MINES— ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE 

PRODUCTIONS. 

Interspersed 

I^Vith xery entertaining anecdotes, and a varietij of 
other useful and pleasing information, re- 
markably calculated to delight and 
instruct the readers. 

To which is added 

, i complete Dictionary of the Indian Tongue 



BY WILLMM FlSHERf Esq, 



"-'^ 



BALTIMOHB , ^ ^,o^' 

PRINTED AND PUBI^ISHED BY P. MAUBOj 

JV". 10, JSTorth Howard St^ 
1813^ 



t- 



5"^ 'a. 

. r ■ 



THE FOLLOWING 
RECOMMENDATION 



From the President of the United States to CongresSf 
explmns the nature, and hears ample testimony oj 
the value of this 

NOVEL AND ARDUOUS UNDERTAKING. 

" THE expedition of Messrs. Lewis and 
Clarke, for exploring the river Missouri, and the 
best communication from that to the Pacific Ocean, 
has had all the success wMch could be expected. 
They have traced the Missouri nearly to its source 5 
descended the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean; ascer- 
tained with accuracy the geography of that inter- 
esting communication across the continent ; learned 
the character of the country, its commerce and in- 
habitants ; and it is but justice to say that Messrs. 
Lewis and Clarke, and their brave companions, 
have, by this arduojis service, deserved well of their 
country.. 

THO. JEFFERSON. 



MESSAGE, 

From the President to the Senate and House of Re^ % 
presentives of the United States. • ^ 

IN pursuance of a measure proposed to Con- 
gress by a message of January 18th, one thousand 
eight hundred and three, and sanctioned by their 
approbation for carryin.^ it into execution, captain 
Meriwether Lewis, of the first regiment of infantry. 
\vas appointed with a party of men, to explore the 
river Missouri, from its mouth to its source, and, 
crossing the highlands by the shortest portage, to 
^^ .z.^^^^ ^^^^ "^^^^^ communication thence to the 
Facific Ocean; and Lieutenant Clarke was appoin- 
ted second m command. They were to enter into 
conterence with the Indian nations on the route^ 
with a View to the establisliment of commerce with 
them. They entered the Missouri, May fourteenth, 
one thousand eight hundred and four, and on the 
hrst ot November took up their winter quarters 
near the Mandan towns, 1,609 miles above the 
mouth of the river, in latitude 47« 21' 27'' north, and 
longitude 99'^ 24' 56'^ west from Greenwich. On 
the eight of April, one thousand eight hundred and 
tive, they proceeded up the river in pursuance of - 
the objects prescribed to them. A letter of the 
preceeding day, April 7th, from Captain Lewis, is 
herewith communicated. During his stay amone: 
the Mandans, he had been able to'lay down the Mis- 
soun, according to courses and distances taken on 
his passage up it, corrected by frequent observa- 
tions of longitude and latitude ; and to add to the 
actual survey of this portion of the river, a gene- 
ral map of the country between the Mississippi and 
Pacific, from the thirty-fourth to the fifty-fourth 
degrees of latitude. These additions* arc from in-, 
formation collected from Indians with whom he had 
the opportunities of communicatine-, during his 
journey and residence with them. "Copies of this 
map are now presented to both houses of Congress, 



MESSAGE. vii 

With these I communicate also a statistical view, 
procured and forw arded by him, of the Indian na- 
tions inhabiting' the territory of Louisiana, and the 
countries adjacent to its northern and western bor- 
ders ; of their commerce, and of other interesting^ 
circumstances respecting them. 

THO. JEFFERSON. 



IXTUOBUCTIOX. 

The advantages, that arise from tlie discoveries 
of unknown regions, arc too numerous to be men- 
tioned. They arise one after another in continual 
vsuccession. Geograpliy, Civilization, Humanity, 
and the Arts and Sciences, receive aid from them. 

From the knowledge of geography accrues the 
most intrinsic advantages of any Science extant. 
It not only feasts the imagination with the amuse- 
ment of novel descriptions ; but is tlie life of com- 
merce, whence the arts and sciences receive suc- 
cour, and a reciprocal exchange. 

It cannot fail of giving pleasure to the philanthro- 
pic mind, to behold implements of agriculture put in 
the hands of the uncivilized barbarian, to provide 
and protect him from the precarious reliance on 
the chase for a scanty sustenance. The time is not 
far distant, in all moral probability, when the un- 
cultivated wilds of the interior part of the continent, 
which is now only inhabited by tiie tawny sons of 'the 
forest, and the howling beasts of prey, will be ex- 
clianged for the hardy votaries of agriculture, who 
will turn those steril wildernesses into rich cultiva- 
ted and verdant fields. 

It may be suggested, that tlie intolerable sufferings 
of the Aborigines, from the impoi-tation of foreign 
diseases, and the more baneful influence of spirit- 
uous liquors, more tlian counterbalance the benefits 
that tliey receive from civilization. These objec- 
tions, it must be frankly confessed, are very pow- 
erful. But it is hoped, that vigilent measures will 
be pursued, by a government professed to be foun- 
ded on the principles of humanity and wisdom, to 
prohibit the introduction of spirituous liquours 
among them. The small pox has raged, when lit- 
tle or no communication was held with them. Pro- 
visions are already made to introduce vaccine in- 
oculation among them, which will prevent those 
horrid ravages which are mentioned in the coiu*se 
of the work. 



INTRODUCTION. ix 

* 

Curiosity is often excited to contemplate, that 
regions, upwards of three thousand miles inlengtli, 
bordering on a country inhabited by an inquisitive 
and enterprising people, who could avail them- 
selves of the benefit of a lucrative fur trade, should 
remain so long unexplored. Many impediments 
have retarded the tour, that has laid open to view a 
Country hitliei'to liidden from the knowledge of the 
civilized American. 

Attempts have been made, by the great disco- 
verer, captain Cook, to find a communication by 
water in the northern regions between the Atlantic 
and Pacific Ocean. Whether the two great oceans 
are joined together in those regions remains an un- 
certainty ; but the rigors of a frigid zone evinced, 
that though they joined it, it was impracticable to 
navigate between them. 

To travel among the Indians, is but too often 
thought the road that inevitably leads the unfortu- 
nate adventurer to an untimely death. The barba^ 
rity of tlie Indians in war is proverbial ; but in time 
of peace, hospitality and humanity are traits justly 
due to their character. It is a j udicious saying of an 
eminent traveller among them, that, "in time of 
peace no greater friends, in time of war no greater 
enemies." 

Before the acquisition of Louisiana by the United 
States, the jealous disposition of the Spaniards de- 
barred all adventures for discoveries from that 
quai'ter. 

These impediments would compel the discoveries 
of the western part of the continent, to be made by 
a voyage by the way of Cape Horn, which would be 
too long, arduous and expensive to entice the enter- 
prise. 

In the year 1789, the celebmted traveller Alexan- 
der Mackenzie embarked from Fort Chepewyan,in 
lat. 58, N. Ion. 110, W. from Greenwich, and with 
the greatest fortitude, under embarrassing and pe- 
rilous circumstances, he with assiduity explored the 
nojjthern region to nearly the 70th degree o£ north 



X INTRODUCTION. 

latitude, where obstruction by ice compelled him to 
return to Fort Cliepewyan. Thence he ascended 
tlie Peace River to its source, and thence to the Pa- 
cific ocean ; making many discoveries, which he 
judiciously narrated in his journal. 



J'/ie following statement of the Commerce of the Mis- 
sourU is made by a gentleman, which will suffici- 
ently show the advantages that arise from it. 



**The products which are drawn from the Missou* 
ri, are obtained from the Indians and hunters in ex- 
cliangc for merchandise. They may be classed ac- 
cording to the snbjoined table : 







D C 


D C 


Castor, - - 


±228ilbs at 1 20 


14737 20 


Otters, - - 


1267 skins 


4 00 


5068 00 


Foxs -) 








PouhaFoxs, I 


802 skins 


50 


401 00 


Tigars Cats, J 








Raccoons, - 


4248 skins 


25 


1062 00 


Bears, black ' 
gray k yell. 


2541 skins 


2 00 


5082 00 


Puces, - - 








Buffaloes, - 


1714 skins 


3 00 


5142 00 


Dressed cow hs. 


189 skins 


1 50 


283 50 


Shorn deer sks. 


96926tt)S 


40 


38770 4a 


Deer skins, > 
with hair, j 


6381 skins 


50 


3190 50 


Tallow & fat, 


S3±3lbs 


20 


1662 60 


Bear's oil, - 


2310 galls. 


1 28 


2572 00 


Muskrats, 








Martens, 












S 77971 20 



" The calculations in this table, drawn from the 
most correct accounts of the produce of the Mis- 
souri, during fifteen years, make the average of a 
common year 77,971 dollars. 

"On calculating, in the same proportion, the 



iNTRODUCTION. xi 

amount of merchandize entering the Missouri, and 
<2;iven in exchange fyv peltries, it is found that it 
amounts to ^61,250, including expenses, equal to 
one fourth of the value of the merchandize. 

*^ The result is, that this commerce gives an an- 
nual profit of Sl6,721, or about 27 per cent. 

" If the commerce of the Missouri, without en- 
couragement, and badly regulated, gives annually 
30 great a profit, may we not rest assured that it 
will be greatly augmented, should government di- 
rect its attention to it ? It is also necessary to ob- 
serve, that the price of peltry, fixed by this table, is 
the current price in the Illinois : if it were regula- 
ted by the prices of London, deducting the expenses 
of transportation, the profit, according to our cal- 
culation, vrould be much more considerable. 

" If the Missouri, abandoned to savages, and 
presenting but one branch of commerce, yields such 
great advantages, in proportion to tlie capital era- 
ployed in it, what miglit we not hope, if some mer- 
f-hants or companies with lai'ge capital, and aided 
by a population extended along tlie boilers of the 
iiver, should turn their attention to other branches 
of the trade, which the^ might undertake (I dare 
3ay) mth a certainty of success, v/hen v/e consider 
the riclies buried in its banks, and of which 1 have 
'ndeavourcdii^. these notes to give an idea. 



ESTIMATE 

Of the product of the several Mne&» 

'* Mine a Burton - 550,000^3 
mineral, estimated to 

{)roduce 66 2-3, is 336,666 2'Slhs 
ead, atS5, is 18,333 33 

To which add $S0 (on 
120,000/^5 manufacter- 
ed) to each thousand, is 3,600 00 

21,933 S3 

•< Old Mines, - 200,000?5s mi- 
neral, estimated to produce 
66 2-3, is 133 333 1-3)65 lead 
at S5 per cwt, is - - - 6,666 67 
** Mine a la Mott, 200,000/65 

lead, at $5 per cwt. is - - 10,000 00 
" Suppose at all the other mines 
30,000/&s lead, at S5, is - 1,600 00 

i -18,166 67 

Total amount, is jS40,100 00 

" When the manufacture of white and red lead is 
put into operation, the export valuation will be con- 
siderably augmented on the quality of lead^" 



IRAVELS 



TO THE 



PACIFIC OCEA^y. 



ON the 14th of May, 1804, we embarked from 
St. Louis on the expedition. Having, previous to 
our setting out, provided ourselves with every thing 
requisite for the prosecution of the voyage, which 
consisted of large quantities of ammunition and 
jSre-arms, for the purpose of protecting us from the 
hostile attacks of the natives, and for procuring us 
food. We likewise took a lai'ge quantity of orna- 
ments, consisting of medals, trinkets, &c. for the 
purpose of gaining a favourable reception among 
the Indians, and to procure us such articles of use 
as our situation required. 

Our company, consisting of forty -three, were 
generally divided into two companies ; the one for 
hunting, who travelled by land, and overtook the 
other party at night, who were in our water con- 
veyance, which consisted only of two small perogues 
and a batteau. Larger vessels would obstruct us 
in ascending the Missouri near its^ source. We 
were compelled to encamp by night on the banks of 
the river ; our vessel being too light to sail except 
by day. 

The great object of our expedition was to aid 
Commerce and Population, 

The country bordering on the Missouri produces 
immense quantities of fur, which can be purehased 
of the Indians for a mere trifle, and which can be 
easily transported for the head of the Missouri to 
the Columbia river with very little expense, consi- 



li NEW TRAAnbiLb 

dering the low rate that horses can be purchased 
from the Snake Indians (who inhabit the coiintr> 
at the head of the Missouri) to transport tliem tu 
the Columbia river, and thence to China by a very 
short route. 

This trade would give employment to an ini- 
mense number of inhabitants, and the country is 
sufficiently luxuriant for the population of an im- 
mense colony. 

MISSOURI. 

The Missouri is already ranked among tlic great- 
est rivers. It is an object ofastonishment to the wliole 
world. The uninformed man admii-es its rapidity, 
its lengthy course, salubrity of its waters, and is 
astonished at its colour, while tlie reflecting mind 
admires the innumerable I'iches scattered on its 
banks, and foreseeing tlie future, beholds already 
this I'ival of the Nile, flowing through countries as 
fertile, as populous, and as extensive as those of 
Egypt. 

A traveller, howevei* intelligent he way be, can 
give but a faint idea of the innumerable riclies ac- 
cumulated on its banks. This sketch will barely 
point out the most important. 

The Missouri joins the Mississippi five leagues 
above the town of St. Louis, about the 40tli degree 
of north latitude. It is necessary to observe, tliat, 
after uniting with the Mississippi, it flows through a 
space of 1200 miles before it empties itself into' the 
Gulf of Mexico. As this part of its course is well 
known, I shall speak of the Missouri only. I as- 
cended about six hundred leagues, without perceiv- 
ing a diminuation either in its width or rapidity. — 
The principle rivers wliieh empty into the Missouii 
ai^ as you ascend, the Gasconade, the river of the 
Osages, the two Charatunis, the Great river, the 
river Des Canips, Nichinen, Batoney,, tlie Great 
-and Little Nimaha, the river Plate, fe river des 
Sioux, and L'Eau Qui Court. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 15 

As far as twenty -five leai^ues above its junction 
with the Mississippi, are to be found different set- 
tlements of American families, viz. at Bonhomme, 
and Feme Osage, &c. ; beyond this its banks are 
inhabited only by savage nations — the Great and Lit- 
tle Osages, settled one hundred and twenty leagues 
on the river of that name ; the Canips, the Ottos, 
the Panis, the Loups or Panis Mahas, the Mahas, 
the Poukas, the Ricaras, the Mandanes,the Sioux ; 
the last nation is not fixed on the banks of the Mis- 
souri, but habitually goes thereto hunt. 

Tlie banks of the Missouri are alternately woods 
and pairies ; it is remarked that the higher you as- 
cend this river, the more common are tliese pairies, 
and they seem to increase every yeai* by the fires 
which are kindled every autumn by tlie savages or 
white hunters, either by chance or the design of fa- 
cilitating their hunting. 

The waters of the Missouri are muddy, and con- 
tain throughout its course a sediment of veiy fine 
sand, which soon precipitates; but this circum- 
stance, which renders them disagreeable to the 
sight, takes nothing from their salubrity. 

Experience has proved, that the waters of tlie 
Missouri are more wholesome than tiiose of the 
Ohio, and the upper Mississippi. The livers and 
sti'cams, which empty into the Missouri, below the 
river Plate, are clear and limpid, but above this 
river, they are as muddy as those of tJie Missouri 
itself. This is occasioned by beds of sand, or hills 
of a very fine ^vhite earth, whence they take rise. 

The bed of the Missouri is obstructed with banks, 
sometimes of sand and sometimes gravel, whicli fre- 
quently change their place, and consequently ren- 
der tlie navigation always uncertain. Its course i^ 
generally west by nortJi-west. 

To give a precise idea of the incalculable riches 
scattered on the banks of the Missouri, would re- 
quire unbounded knowledge. 

The Hats are covered with huge trees ; thcIJard 
or poplai'. The sycamore, out of one piece of which 
B 



16 NEW TRAVELS 

are made canoes, which carry ahiiost 18,000 cwt. 
The maple which affords the iidiahitants an agreea- 
hie and Avliolesome sugar. I'hc wild chei'ry tree, 
and the red and hlatk walnut, so useful in joiners' 
work. The red and white elm, necessary to cart- 
wrights. The trincanthoSf which, when well trim- 
med, forms impenetrahlc hedges. The water wil- 
loAV, tlie white and red mulherry tree, ^c. &c. 

On the shores are found, in abundance, the white 
and hlack oak, proper for every kind of shipwrights' 
and cai'])enters' work. The pine, so easily worked, 
and on the stony mountains the durable cedai*. 

It would be impossible to detail all the species of 
trees, even those unknow n in other counti'ies, and 
the use that can be made of them, of which w^ are 
still ignoi'ant. 

The plants are still more numerous : I will pass 
lightly over this article, for the w ant of sufficient 
botanical knowledge. The Indians are well ac- 
quainted with the virtues of many of them ; they 
make use of them to heal their wounds and to poison 
tlicir arrows ; they also make use of different kinds 
of Saxwyanv.es; to dye different colours ; they have 
one which is a certain and prompt cure for the vene- 
real disease, 

Tht" lands on tlie l)orders of tlie Missouri ai'c ex- 
cellent, and when cultivated ai*e capable of yielding 
abundantly all the productions of the temperate, Ami 
oven some of the warm climates ; wheat, maize and 
every species of grain, Irish potatoes, and excel- 
lent sweet potatoes ; hemp seems hei-e to be an indi- 
genous plant ; even cotton succeeds, though not as 
well as in more southerly cmmtries ; its cultui*e, 
however, yields a real advantage to the inhabitants 
settled oil the banks of the Missouri, who find in a 
crop off a field of about two acres sufficient for the 
want of tiieir fiimilies. 

The natural prairies are a great resource being 
of themselves excellent pasturages, and facilitating 
the labours of the man who is just settledj, and wiio 
can thus enjoy, with little labour, from the first 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 17 

year, a considerable crop. Clay fit for making 
uricks is very common : there is also Fayance clay, 
and every species of clay, which, in the opinion of 
intelli.^ent persons, is the real koaolin to which the 
porcelain of China owes the whole of its reputation. 

There are found on the borders of the Missouri 
many springs of salt water of every kind, which 
will be more than sufficient for the consumption of 
the country,, when it shall become inhabited. 

Salt-petre is found here in great abundance, in 
numbeness caves, which are met with along the 
banks of the river. 

The stones arc generally calcareous and gates. 
There is one found also, which I believe to be pecu- 
liar to the banksof the Missouri. It is of a blood- 
red colour, compact, soft under the chisel, and hai'd- 
ens in the air, and is susceptible of a most beautiful 
polish. The Indians make use of it for their calu- 
mets ; but from the extent of its layers it might be 
easily emplbyed in more important works. They 
have also quarries of marble, of which we only 
know the colour 5 they are streaked with red. One 
quarry is well known and easily worked, namely, a 
species of plaster, which we ai'c assured is of the 
same nature as that of Paris, and of which the 
United States make a great use : we also found voU 
canic stones, which demonstrate the ancient exis- 
tence of unknown volcanoes. 

We are confirmed in the belief, that there were 
Yolcanoes in some of their mountains, by the intel- 
Ugence that we received from the Indians ; who in- 
formed us, "that the Evil Spirit was mad at Red 
** people, and caused the mountains to vomit fire, 
** sand, gravel, and large stones, to ten-ify and de- 
V stroy them ; but the Good Spirit had compassion 
** on them, and put out the fire, chased the Evil 
** Spirit out of the mountains, and left tliem unhurt^ 
** but when they returned to their wickedness, the 
** Great Spirit had permitted the Evil Spirit to re- 
** turn to the mountains again, and vomit up fire ; 
" but on their becoming good and making sacrifices. 



±H NEW TRAVELS 

** the Great Spirit chase4 away the Evil Spirit from 
** disturbing them, and for forty snows* he had not 
** permitted him to return." 

The short stay we have generally made among 
the savage nations, has prevented us from making 
those researches which would have supplied us with 
more extensive information, respecting the various 
mines found on the borders of the Missouri ; we 
know with certainty, only those of iron, lead and 
itosd; there is however, no doubt, but there are 
some of tin, of copper, of silver, and even of gold, 
according to the account of the Indians, who have 
found some particles or dust of these metals either 
on the surface of the earth, or on the banks of small 
torrents. 

I consider it a duty at the same time to give an 
idea of the salt mines and the salines, which are 
found in the same latitude on the branches of the 
river Arkansas. At about 300 miles from the vil- 
lage of the Great Osages, in a westerly dii'cction, 
after having passed several branches of the river 
Arkansas, we find a flat surrounded by hills of an 
immense extent, and about 15 leagues in diameter ^ 
the soil is a black sand, very fine, and so hard that 
the horses hardly leave a trace. During a warm 
and dry season, there exhales from this flat, va- 
pours, which after being condensed, fall on this 
black sand, and cover it with an incrustation of salt, 
very wliite and fine, and about lialf an inch thick ; 
and rains destroy this phenomenon. 

At about 18 miles from tliis flat, there are found 
mines of genuine salt, near the surface of the earth : 
the Indians who are well acquainted with them, are 
obliged to use levers, to break and raise it. 

At a distance of about 15 leagues from the flat, 
of which we have just spoken, and in a southerly 
direction, there is a second mine of genuine salt 
of the same nature as the other. These two mines 
difier only in cployr ; the first borders on a blue, the 

* Forty Fears. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 19 

second approaches a red* In short much further 
south, and still on the branches of the Arkansas, is 
a saline, which may be considered as one of the 
most interestinji^ phenomena in nature* 

On the declivity of a small hill there are five holes, 
about a foot and a half in diameter, and two in depth, 
always full of salt water, without ever overflowing. 
If a person were to draw any of this salt water, the 
hole would immediately fill itself; and about ten 
feet lower, there flows, from tliis same hill, a large 
stream of pure and sweet water. 

If tills country was peopled, the working of these 
genuine salt mines would be very easy, by means 
of the river Arkansas. Tliis species of salt is found 
by experience to be far preferable to any other for 
salting provisions. 

Should these notes, imperfect and without order, 
but in every respect founded on truth, and observa- 
tions made* by myself, cite the curiosity of men of 
intelligence, capable of investigating the objects 
which they have barely suggested, I do not doubt 
but that incalculable advantages would result to the 
United States, and especially to the district of Lou- 
isiana. 

It is impossible to give an exact account of the 
Peltries, wliich are brought down the Mississippi, 
as thcv are immediately transported to Canada, 
withou't passing any port of this country ; we can 
obtain a ti-ue statement only from the settlements on 
the Lakes. It is b ut a short time since the Red river 
has been explored. 

After leaving the river Des Mones, the Fur trade 
from the Upi>er Missouri is carried on entirely by 
British houses, and almost the whole of the Furs 
which ai^e obtained from the other Indian traders, 
are also sent to Canada, where they commaiid much 
higher prices than at New-Orleans ; where, in fact, 
there is no demand for them. It is als) necessary 
to observe, that the further north we go, the grea- 
t*>r the value of the peltri-s. It is but a few years 
filnc^ peltries have bei'n exported froui America, by 
B 2 



29 NEW TRAVELS 

way of the Ohio. It is to be desired, that the eas^ 
tern paii; of America should encourage this expor- 
tation, by raising the prices of peltries to nearly 
those of Canada. 

The country at the head of the Missouri and Co- 
lumbia river bears a great similarity ; being cold 
and very sterile, except in pasturage only. At the 
foot of the mountain, at the head of the Missouri, 
lives a tribe of Indians, called Serpentine, or Snake 
Indians ; who are the most abject and miserable of 
the human race, having little besides the features of 
human beings. 

They live in a most \vi*etched state of poverty, 
subsisting on berries and fish ; the former they 
manufacture into a kind of bread, which is very 
palatable, but possesses very little nutritious quali- 
ty. The only article of value which they possess 
is horses, in which the country abounds, and in very 
severe winters they are compelled to subsist on 
them, for the want of a better substitute for food. 

I'hey are a very harmless inoffensive people ; 
when we first made our appearance among them, 
they were filled with terror, many of them fled, 
while the others wlio remained, were in tears, but 
were soon pacified by tokens of friendship, and by 
presents of beads, kc, which soon convinced them 
of our friendly disposition. 

The Snake Indians are in their stature crooked, 
which is a peculiarity, as it docs not characterize 
any other tribe of Indians, that came within the 
compass of our observation. To add to this defor- 
mity, they have high cheek bones, large light co- 
loured eyes, and arc very meagre, which gives 
them a frightful aspect. 

With an axe we could purchase of them a good 
horse, we purcliased twenty-seven from them, 
which did not cost more than one hundred dollars ; 
which will be a favourable circumstance for trans- 
porting fur over to the Columbia-rive. 

At tlie head of the Columbia river, resides a tribe 
by the name PaUotepaUorSf or Flatheads ; the latter 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 2i 

name they derive from an operation, wliich renders 
the top of the head flat; which is performed while 
they ai*e infants, when the bones of the cranium are 
soft, and elastic, and are easily brought to the de- 
sired deformity. The operation is performed by 
tying boards, hewn to a proper shape for the pur> 
pose, which they compress on the head. In per- 
forming this singular operation, many infants, I 
think without doubt, lose their lives. The more 
they get the head misshapen, it is considered with 
them the greater beauty. 

They are very kind and hospitable people. We 
left in "charge with them when descended the Colum- 
bia river, our horses, which they kept safe. They 
likewise found where we had concealed our ammu- 
nition in the earth ; and had they not been an ho- 
nest people, and preserved it safe, our lives must 
have been inevitably lost; they delivered up the 
whole, without wishing to reserve any, or to receive 
for it a compensation. 

Tliey, like tlie Snake Indians, abound in hoi^ses, 
which subsist in the winter season on a shrub, 
whicli they call evergreen: which bears a large 
leaf, which is tolerably nutritious ; they likewise 
feed upon the side of hills whicli gush out small 
spi'ings of water, which melt the snow, and affords 
j)asture. In this manner our horses subsisted 
while going over the rocky mountains. 

The country inhabited hj the Snake and Flathead 
Indians produces but very little game. 

Captain Clarke kept an account of the distances 
of places from one to another; which were not 
kept by myself, for which reason I hope it will be a 
sufficient apology for subjoining two of his state- 
mentSr 



NEW TRAVELS 



LETTER FROM CAPTAIN CLARKE TO HIS EXCEL- 
LENCY GOVERJVOR HARRISON. 

Foi-t Mandan, April 2(1. 
'' Dear Sir, 

*^ BY tlie return of a party Avhich we 
sent from tliis place with despatches, I do myself 
the pleasure of i^iving you a summary view of the 
Missouri, &c. 

** In ascending" as high as the Kansas river, which 
is three hundred and thirty -four miles up the Mis- 
souri : on the south west side, we met a strong cur- 
rent, whicli was from five to seven miles an hour ; 
the hottom is extoisive, and covered with timher, 
the higli country is interspersed with rich handsome 
prairies, well watered, and ahound in deer and 
bears ; in ascending as high as the river Plate, we 
met a current loss rapid, not exceeding six miles 
an hour. In this distance we passed several small 
rivers on eacli side, which water some finely diver- 
sified country, principally prairies, as between Yin- 
cennes and Illinois, the bottoms continue wide, and 
covered with timber ; tliis river is about six thou- 
sand yards wide, at the mouth, not navigable ; it 
heads in the rocky mountains, with the North ri- 
ver, and Yellow Stone river, and passes through 
an open country-. Fifteen leagues up this river tlie 
Ottoes and thirty Missouries live, in one village, 
and can raise two hundred men ; fifteen leaglies 
higher up, the Paneas and Panea Republicans live 
in one village, and can raise seven hundred men. Up 
the wolf fork of this river, Papia Louisis .live in 
one village, and can raise two hundred and eighty 
men; these Indians., have partial ruptures fre- 
quently. River Plate is six hundred and thirty miles 
pu the Missouri, on the south west side. Here we find 
the Antelope or (ioat. The next river of size as- 
cending, is tlie Stone river, commonly called by the 
Ingaseix, Little river Desirous ; it takes its rise in 
lake Dispice, fifteen miles from the river Deinoir, 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 24 

and is sixty-four yards wide ; here commences the 
Sioux country. The next by note is the Big Sioux 
river, which heads with the St. Peters, and waters 
of lake Winnepie, in some high wooded country. 
About ninety miles still higher, the river Jacque 
falls on the same side ; and about one hundred yards 
wide. This river heads with the waters of lake 
Winnepie, at no great distance east from the place, 
the head of the river Demon in Pelican lake, be- 
tween the Sioux rivers and St. Peters. The coun- 
try on both sides of the Missouri, from the river 
Plate to tliat place, has very much the same ap- 
pearance; extensively fertile plains, containing 
but little timber and that little, principally confined 
to the river bottoms and streams. The country east 
of this place, and off, from the Missouri as low as 
Stone river, contains a number of small trees, 
many of which are said to be so much impregnated 
with glauber salt as to produce all its effects ,v cer^ 
tain it is that the water in the small streams from 
the hill below on the south west side possesses this 
quality. 

y About the river Jacque Bruff, the country con- 
tains a great quantity of mineral, cobalt, cinabar, 
alum, copperas, and several other things -, the stone 
coal which is on the Missouri is very indifferent. 
Ascending fifty-two miles above the Jacque, the ri- 
ver Quicum falls on the south west side of this river, 
is one thousand and twenty-six miles up, one hun- 
dred and fifty yards v/ide, not navigable ; it heads 
!" Ii ^. ^ mountains which run nearly paralhd 
to the Missouri from about the head of the Kansas 
river, and ends south west of this place. Quicum 
waters a broken country one hundred and twentv- 
two miles, by water, higher. White river falls m 
on the south west side, and is thi^ee hundred yards 
wide, and navigable, as all tlie other streams are. 
Which are not particularly mentioned. Tiiis river 
heads m some small lakes, short of the Black moun- 
lams. 1 lie Mahan and Pocan nations rove on the 
fteads ol this river and the Quicum, and can raise 



2i NEW TllAYELS 

two hundred and fifty men ; tliey were very nume- 
rous a few years ago, but the small pox and the 
Jsivoux Iiavc redueed them to their present state. — 
I'he Sivoiix i?0Ksess the south west side of the Mis- 
souri above White river, one hundred and thirty- 
two niik s hi.^;hci', and on the west side. Teton river 
fal^ into it; it is small, and lieads in the open 
plains ; here we met a large hand of Sioux, and the 
stcond whieh we iiad seen, ealledTetons ; those are 
rascals, and may be justly termed the pirates of the 
Missouri. They made two attempts to stop us. 
They are subdivided, and stretching on the river 
near to this place, having reduced the Racres and 
Mandans, and drove them from the country they 
now occupy. 

"The 8ioux bands rove in the country to the 
Mississippi. About forty-seven miles above the 
Teton river, the Chyanne river falls in from the 
south-west, four thousand yards wide; is navigable 
to the Black mountains, in which it takes its rise, 
in the third range. Several bands of Indians, but 
little knov/n, rove on the heads of this and the river 
Plate ; and are stated to be as follows 5 Choaenne, 
three hundred men ; Staetons, one hundred ; Ga- 
nenaviech, four liUndred ; Cayanwa and Wetahato, 
two hundred; Cahata, seventy; Detame, thirty, 
Memesoon, filty ; Castahana, one thousand tliree 
hundred men. It is probable that some of those 
bands are the remains of the Padoucar nation. At 
fourteen hundred and forty miles up the Missouri, 
(and a short distance above two handsome rivers, 
which take tlieir rise in the Black mountains) the 
Kicaraslive in three villages, and are the remains 
of ten difl'erent tribes of Pane as, who hiive 
been i-educed and drove from their country lower 
down by the Sioux ; their number is about five 
hundred men ; they raise corn, beans, &c. and 
aj^pear tViendly and well dispovsed. They were at 
w ar with the nations of this neighbourhood, and 
we have bi-ought about peace. Between the Re- 
cars and this place, two rivers fall in on the south- 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 25 

west and one on the north-east, not very long, and 
take their rise in the open countrj^ Tliis country 
abounds in a j^reat variety of wild aninials, but a 
few of w hich the Indians take ; many of these ani- 
mals are uncommon in the United States, such as 
w liite, red, and ffrey bears ; lon.e; eared mules, or 
black tail deer, (black at the end of the tail only) 
lari^e hare, antelope or Goat; the red fox; tlic 
j^round pranrie dogs, (who burrow^ in tlic ground) 
tlie braroca, whicli has a head like a dog, and the 
si^e of a small dog ; the w bite brant, magpie, cal- 
umet, cage, ^cc. and many otliers arc said to inha- 
bit tiie rocky mountains. 

'**I have collected tlie following accounts of the 
rivers and country in advance of this, to w it : two 
days' march, in advance of tliis, the Little Missour- 
ri falls on tlie south side, and heads at the north- 
west extremity of the Black mountains ; six days' 
march further, a large river joins the Missouri, 
affording as much water as the main river ; this 
river is rapid without a fall, and navigable to the 
Rocky mountains, its brandies head with the Ava- 
ters of the river Plate; the country in advance is 
sftid to be broken. 

*• The trade of the nations at this place is from 
tlie north west, and Hudson's Bay establishments, 
on the Assinneboin river, distant about one 
hundred and fitly miles ; those traders are near- 
ly at open war with each other, and better cal- 
culated to destroy than promote the happiness of 
those nations to which they have latterly extended 
their trade, and intend to form an establishment 
near this place in the cours c of this year. 
** Your most 

** Obedient servant, 

Wm. CLARK, 



26 NEW TRAVELS 

XETTEH FROM CAPT. CLARK, TO HIS BROTHER. 

St. Louis, Sept. 1806. 
" Bear Brother, 

** We arrived at this place at twelve 
o'clock to-day, from the Pacific ocean, where we 
remained during the last winter, near the entrance 
of the Columhia river. This station we left on 
\:7th of March last, and should have reached St. 
Louis early in August, had we not been detain- 
ed by the snow, which barred our passage across 
the Rocky mountains until the 24th of June. In 
returning through those mountains, we divided 
ourselves into several parties, digressing from the 
rout by which we went out, in order the more 
effectually to explore the country, and discover 
the most practicable route which does exist across 
the Continent by the way of the Missouri and Co- 
lumbia rivers; in this we were completely suc- 
cessful, and have therefore no hesitation in declar- 
ing, that, such as nature has permitted, we have 
discovered the best route which does exist across 
tlic continent of ISorth America in that direction^ 
Suclris that by way of the Missouri to the foot of the 
rapids, below the great falls of that river, a dis- 
tance of two thousand five hundred and seventy - 
five miles, thence by land, passing by the Rocky 
mountains to a navigable part of the Kooskooske 
three hundred and forty ; and with the Kooskooske 
seventy-tliree miles. Lewis's river one hundred 
and fifty -four miles, and the Columbia four hundred 
and thirteen miles to the Pacific ocean, making tlie 
total distance from the confluence of the Missouri 
and Missis>ippi to the discharge of the Columbia 
into the Pacific ocean, three thousand five hundred 
and fifty-five miles. The navigation of the Mis- 
souri may be deemed good; its difficulties arise 
from its falling banks, tlie timber imbedded in the 
mud of its channel, its sand-bars, and steady ra- 
pidity of its current, all which may be overcome 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 27 

by the necessary precaution. The passage by 
land of three liundred and forty miles, from the 
falls of the Missouri to the Kooskooke, is tlie most 
formidable part of the tract proposed across the 
Continent. Of this distance, two hundred miles is 
along a good road, and one hundred and forty 
miles over tremendous mountains, which for sixty 
miles is covered with eternal snows. A passage 
over these mountains is, liowever, practicable fi'om 
the latter part of June to the last of September, 
and the cheap rate at which horses are to be ob- 
tained from the Indians of the Rocky momitains, 
and west of them, reduces the expenses of traiiS- 
portation over this portage to a mere tridc. Tiie 
navigation of the Kooskooske, Lewis's river, and 
the Columbia, is safe and good, from the first of 
April to the middle of August, by making three 
portages on the latter river ; the first of which, in 
descending, is twelve hundred paces at the falls of 
Columbia, two hnndred and sixty one miles up 
that river ; the second, of two miles, at the long 
narrow, six miles below tlie falls ; and a third, 
also of two miles, at tlie great rapids, sixty-five 
miles still lower down. The tide flows up the 
Columbia one hundred and eighty-tliree miles and 
within seven miles of the great rapids. Large 
sloops may with safety ascend as higli as the tide 
water, and vessels of three hundred tons burthen 
reacli the entrance of the Multnomali river, a large 
Southern branch of the Columbia, whicli takes its 
rise on the confines of New Mexico, witli the Calle- 
I'ado and Apostle's rivers, discharging itseli into 
the Columbia, one hundred and twenty -five miles 
from its entrance into tJie Pacific ocean. I con- 
sider this track across the Continent of immense 
advantage to the fur trade, as all the furs collected 
in nine tenths of the most valuable fur country in 
America, may be conveyed to tlie moutli of the Co- 
lumbia, and shipped from thence to the East Indies, 
by the first of August in each year ; and w ill of 
course reach Canton earlier than the furs which 
C 



■:s jSEW travels 

are annually exported from Montreal arrive in 
Great Britain. 

" In our outwaiMi bound passage we ascended 
to the foot of the rapids below tlie great falls of the 
Missouri, where we arrived on the lith of June, 
1805. Not having met with any of the natives of 
the Roeky mountains, we were of course ignorant 
of the passes by land, which existed through those 
mountains to the Columbia river : And had we 
even known the rout, we wei'c destitute of horses, 
which would have been indispensably necessary to 
enable us to transport tlie requisite quantity of 
ammunition and other stores to ensure the remain- 
ing part of our voyage down the Columbia; we 
tlierefore determined to navigate the Missouii as 
far as it was practicable, or unless we met with 
some of the natives, from whom we could obtain 
horses and information of the country* Accord- 
inglv, w« undertook a most laborious portage at 
the falls of the Missouri, of eighteen miles, whicli 
wc elfectcd with our canoes and baggage by the 3d 
of July. From hence, ascending the Missouri, we 
penetrated the Rocky mountains at the distance of 
seventy-one miles above tlie upper part of the por- 
tage, and penetrated as far as the three forks of 
that river, a distance of one hundred and eighty 
miles further. Here the Mis-souri divides into 
three nearly equal branches at the same point. 
The two largest brandies are so nearly of the same 
dignitv, tliat we did not conceive that either of 
them could with propriety retain tlie name of the 
Missouri, and therefore called these streams Jef- 
ferson's, Madison's and Gallatin's rivers. The 
eonliuenee of those rivers is two thousand, eight 
liundi-ed and fifty-eight miles from the mouth of 
the Missouri, by the meanders of that river. Wc 
ai-iived at tli« three forks of the Missouri on the 
^7th of July* Not having yet been so fortunate as 
to meet with the natives, altiiough I had previously 
made several excursions for that purpose, we wei-e 
compelled still to continue our route by water. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 29 

" The most northerly of the three forks, that to 
which we had given the name of Jefferson's river, 
was deemed the most proper for our purpose, and 
we accordingly ascended it two hundred and forty- 
eight miles to tlie upper forks, and its extreme 
navigable point ; making the total distance to 
which we had navigated the waters of the Mis- 
souri three thousand and ninety -six miles, of which 
four hundred and twenty-nine lay within tlie Rocky 
Mountains. On the morning of the 17th of August, 
1805, I arrived at the forks of Jeffei^on's river, 
where I met captain Lewis, who had previously 
penetrated, with a party of three men, to the w a- 
ters of the Columbia, discovered a band of the Shos- 
hone nation, and had found means to induce thirty- 
five of their chiefs and warriors to accompany him 
to that place. From these people we learned that 
the river on which they resided was not navigable, 
and that a passage through the mountains in that 
direction was impracticable. Being unwilling to 
confide in this unfavourable account of tlie natives, 
it was concerted between captain Lewis and my- 
self, that one of us should go forward immediately 
with a small party, and explore the river ,• while 
the other in the interim should lay up the canoes 
at that place, and engage the natives with their 
horses to assist in transporting our stores and 
baggage to their camp. Accordingly I set out the 
next day, passed the dividing mountains between 
the waters of the Missouri and Columbia, and de- 
scended the river which I call the East Eork of 
Lewis's river, about seventy miles. Finding tliat 
the Indian's account of the country in the direction 
of this river, was correct, I returned and joined 
captain Lewis on the 29th of August, at the Shos- 
hone camp, excessively fatigued, as you may sup- 
pose ; having passed mountains almost inaccessible, 
and compelled to subsist on berries during tha 
greater part of my route. We now purchased 
twenty-seven horses of these Indians, and hired 
a guide, who assured us that he could in fifteen 



30 NEW TRAVELS 

days take us to a large river in an open country -, 
west of these mountains, by a route some distance 
to the north of the river on which they lived, and 
that by wliich the natives west of the mountains 
visit the plains of the Missouri, for the purpose of 
hunting the buffaloe. Every preparation being 
made, we set forward with our guide on the 31st 
of August, through those tremendous mountains 
in which we continued until the 22d of September, 
before we reached the lower country beyond them ; 
on our w ay we met with the Olelachshoot, a band 
of the Tuchapaks, from whom we obtained an ac- 
cession of seven horses ; and exchanged eight or 
ten othei's. This proved of infinite service to us, 
as we were compelled to subsist on horse beef 
about eight days before we reached the Koos- 
kooske. 

^* During our passage over those mountains, we 
suffered every thing which hunger, cold, and fa- 
tigue could impose ; nor did our difficulties, with 
respect to provisions, cease on our arrival at the 
Kooskooske ; for although the Pallotepallors, a nu- 
merous nation inhabiting that country, were ex- 
tremely hospitable, and for a few trifling articles 
furnished us with an abundance of roots and dried 
salmon, the food to which they were accustomed, 
we found that we could not subsist on these articles, 
and almost all of us grew sick on eating them ; we 
were obliged, therefore, to have recourse to the 
flesh of liorses and dogs, as food, to supply the de- 
ficiency of our guns, wliicli produced but little 
meat, as game was scarce in the vicinity of our 
camp on tlie Kooskooske, w here we were compelled 
to remain, in order to construct our perogues, to 
descend the river. At this season the salmon ai*e 
meagre, and form but indifferent food. While we 
remained here, I was myself sick for several days, 
and my friend captain Lewis suffered a severe in- 
disposition. 

♦* Having completed four perogues and a small 
canoe, we gave our horses in charge to the Pallo- 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 31 

tepallors until we returned, and on the 7 th of Oc- 
tober, re-embarked for the Pacific ocean. AVe 
descended by tlie route I liave ah*eady mentioned. 
The water of the river being low at this season, we 
experienced much difficulty in descending : we found 
it obstructed by a great number of difficult and 
dangerous rapids, in passing of which our pero- 
gues several times filled, and the men escaped 
narrowly with their lives. However, this difficulty 
does not exist in high water which happens within 
the period which I have previously mentioned. We 
found the natives extremely numerous, and gene- 
rally friendly, though we have on several occasions 
owed our lives and the fate of the expedition to 
our number, which consisted of thirty-one men. 
On the 17th of November we reached the ocean, 
where various considerations induced us to spend 
the winter ; we therefore searched for an eligible 
situation for that purpose, and selected a spot on 
the south.side of a little river, called by the natives 
JVetnl, which discharges itself at a small bar on 
the south side of the Columbia, and fourteen miles 
within point Adams. Here we constructed some 
log houses, and defended them with a common 
stockade work. This place we called Fort Clat- 
sop, after a nation of that name who were our 
nearest neighbours. In this country we found an 
abundance of elk, on which we subsisted princi- 
pally during the last winter. We left Fort Clat- 
sop on the 27th of March. On our homeward 
bound voyage, being much better acquainted wdth 
the country, we were enabled to take such precau- 
tions as in a great measure secured us from the want 
cf provisions at any time, and greatly lessened our 
fatigues, when compared with those^ to which we 
were compelled to submit in our outward bound 
journey. We have not lost a man since we left 
Mandans, a circumstance which, I assure you is a 
pleasing consideration to me. As I shall shortly 
be with you, and the post is now waiting, I deem 
C2 



33 JNEW TRAVELS. 

it unnecessary here to attempt minutely to detail 
the occurrences of tlic last eighteen months. 
** I am, ^:c. 

*' Your affectionate brotlier, 

Wm. CLARKE. 

THE treatment tliat we received from the In- 
dians, during nearly three years that we were with 
them, was very kind and hospitable ; except the ill 
treatment that we received ironi the Sioux tribe, 
who several times made attempts to stop us ; and 
we should have been massacred, had we not terri- 
fied tliem from their murderous intention, by threat- 
ening tisem with the small pox, in such a manner 
as would kill the \n hole tribe of them. Nothing 
could be moi'C horrible to tliem, than the bare men- 
lion of tliis fatal disease. It was first communicated 
to them by the Americans, and spread from tribe 
to tribe with an unabated pace, until it extended it- 
self across the continent. 

** This fatal infection, spread around with a bane- 
l\d rapidity, which no flight could escape, and with 
a fatal effect tliat nothing could resist. It destroy- 
ed, with its pestilential breath, whole families and 
tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those 
wlm had the melancholy and effecting opportunity 
of beholding it, a combination of the dead and dy- 
ing, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their 
friends around them, prepare<l to disappoint the 
plague of its prey, by terminating their own exis- 
tence. The habits and lives of those devoted people, 
who provide not to day for the wants of to-morrow, 
must have heightened the pains of sucli an affliction, 
by leaving them not only without remedy, but even 
without alleviation. But nothing was left them, but 
to submit in agony and despair. To aggi'avate the 
picture, if aggravation was possible, may be added 
the sight of the helpless child beholding the putrid 
carcase of its beloved parents dragged by the wolves 
from tbeir huts, (who were invited hither by the 
sttncli) and with a furacious voracity, satiate their 



AMONG THE INDIANS.. 3S 

hunger on the mangled corpse. Or in the same 
manner, serve the dog with food from the body of 
his once beloved master. Nor was it uncommon for 
the father of a family, whom the infection had just 
reached, to call liis family around him, to represent 
the sufferings and cruel fate from the influence of 
some evil spint^ who was preparing to extirpate 
their race ; and to invite them to bafile death, with 
all its horrors with their own weapons ; and at the 
same time, if their hearts failed in this necessary 
act, he was himself ready to perform the deed of 
mercy with his own hand, as the last act of his af- 
fection, and instantly follow them to the chambers 
of death.'*^ The Indians being destitute of phif* 
sicianSf living on animal food, plunging tliemselves 
into cold water f on tlie first discovery of the dis- 
ease, rendered itgcneralJy mortal. 

W hile we were at fortMandan,tlie Sioux robbed 
several of our party wlien they were returning to 
the fort, with tlie fruits of an excursion after game ; 
and murdered several of the ^Mandan tribe in cold 
blood, without provocation, while reposing on the 
bosom of friendship. On heaving of this massacre, 
captain Clarke and the greatcrpartof us volunteer- 
ed to avenge the murder; but were deterred by not 
receiving succour from thcMandan warriors,* who 
declined to avenge the outrage committed on them. 
Tlie probability of their not enlisting, was, that 
they were afraid of the superior number of the 
Sioux to warrant an engagement. 

Soon after this massacre, we received authentic 
intelligence, that the Sioux had it in contemplation 
(if their threats were true) to murder us in the 
spring ; but were prevented from making the attack, 
by our threatening to spread the small pox with all 
its horrors, among them. They, knowing that it 
first originated among the white people, anil having 
heard of innoculation and the mode of keeping the 
infection in vials, which they had but an imperfect 

'^ A western Traveller, 



3* NEW TRAVELS 

idea of, that barely a threat filled them with horror, 
and was sufficient to deter them from their resolute 
and bloody purpose. This stratagem may appear 
insignificant to the reader, but w as of the greatest 
consequence to us ; for to it alone we owe not only 
the fate of the expedition, but our lives. 

Most of the tribes of Indians that we became ac- 
quainted with (except the Sioux) after being intro- 
duced by our interpreter, and found that our inten- 
tions were friendly towards them, never failed of 
greeting us with many tokens of tlieir friendly dis- 
position. Soon aftci" our inter\ iew, we were invited 
to smoke the calumut of peace, and to partake free- 
ly of their venison. The women and children in 
pai'ticular, were not wanting in showing tokens 
of friendship, by endeavouring to make our stay 
agreeable. On our first meeting, they generally 
held a council, as they term it, wiien their cliief de- 
livers a "talk," in wiiich they give their sentiments 
respecting their new visitors; wliich were filled 
w ith prol^^ssions of friendship, and often wei'e very 
eloguent, and abounded with sublime and figurative 
language. 

\Vhen we departed, after taking leave, tliey 
would often put up a prayer, of whicli the follovv irig 
is a sample, which was put up for us by a Mandan : 
** That the great spirit would favour us with smooth 
water, with a clear sky by day, and a bright star- 
light by night ; that we might not be presented \^ ith 
the red hatchet of v/ar ; but, that the great pipe of 
peace might ever shine upon us, as the sun shines in 
an unclouded day, and that we might be oversha- 
dowed by the smoke thereof; that we might have 
sound sleep, and that the bird of peace might whis- 
per in our ears pleasant dreams ; that the deer might 
be taken by us in plenty ; and that the great spirit 
would take us home in safety to our women and 
children." These prayers were generally made 
■with great fervency, often smiting with great vehe- 
mence, their hands upon their breast, their eyes 
fixed in adoration towards heaven. In this manner 



iiiiiyiiiii 



mi 



i 



lOiiHii' 



'111!' ji 

i|lll!ltlllllli!!iipl '\ 
i 

! iilillllililll 



I 



lllilii" 



iillllilillliiil 



^xr- 



0^/ r"^( 



!l-ili ipii.: \ 



iil 



mi 



m 



li. 






I 

\\ 
III 



m 






'/A 



m 



:;r ■ I 



t* 



I 



i in!i'Mi ] Hii !i[iiii 



m.Mm^'-i 



m 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 35 

they would continue their prayers until we were out 
©f sight. 

In the fore part of autumn we experienced slight 
typlius indispositions, caused by great vicissitudes 
of weather, w liich at times was very damp. 

Our affectionate companion serjeant Floyd was 
seized with a severe astenic disease, of which he 
fell a victim. He was seized with an acute pain in 
his intestines, accompanied with a great suppres- 
sion of the pulmonary function. Every ciTort that 
our situation allowed, was in vain used for his re- 
covery ; we buried him in tJie most decent manner 
that our circumstance would admit. He was uni- 
versally lamented by us. 

Sev^'al times, many of our party were in immi- 
nent danger of being devoured by the wild beasts of 
prey ; but happily we escaped. Frequently we were 
annoyed by a kind of light coloured bear, of which 
the country near the head of the Missouri, abounds. 
After being attacked, they give no quarter, but rush 
with great fury towards their enemy. One of our 
party shot at one of them, and wounded him ; the 
bear, instead of being intimidated by the smart of 
the wound, was stimulated into rage, and rushed 
with great fury to devoiir the assailant, who saved 
his life by running headlong down a steep precipice, 
that formed the bank of the river ; but was severely 
bruised by the precipitant retreat. 

The following narrative of an encounter with a Snak^, 
is told by a companion^ whose veracity can be relied 
on, I will give it in his own words,' as he related 
it in a letter to his friend. 

*< SOME time," says he "hefore we reached 
fort Mandan, while I was out on an excursion of 
hunting, one of the greatest monsters tliat ever 
shocked the mind with horror was presented to my 
sight. When passing deliberately in a forest tliat 
bordered on prairie, 1 heard a I'ustling in the bushes ; 
1 leaped towai'ds the object, delighted with the pros^ 



36 NEW TRAVELS 

pectof acquiring game. But on proceeding a few 
paces further, my blood was cliilied with horror, by 
the api^earance of a serpent of an enormous size. 
On discovering me, he immediately erected his head 
to a great height; his colour was of a yellower hue 
than the spots of a rattle snake ; and on the top of his 
back were spots of a reddish colour. His eyes emit- 
ted fire, his tongue darted, as though he menaced 
my destruction. He was evidently in tiie attitude 
of springing at me, when I levelled my rifle at him ; 
but probably owning to my consternation, I only 
wounded him; but the explosion of the gun and the 
wound turned to flight the awful enemy. Perhaps 
you ma;^ think, that my fright has magnified the 
descriptioji. I can candidly aver, that he was in 
bulk half as large as a middle-sized man." 

In the Indian tribes there is so great a similarity 
in their stature, colour, government, and religious 
tenets, that it will be I'equisite, for perspicuity, to 
rank them under one general head. And when there 
is a contrast in course of the description, it will be 
mentioned. 

They are all (except tlie Snake Indians) tall in 
stature, straight, and robust. It is very seldom 
they are deformed, which has given rise to the sup- 
position, that they put to death their deformed chil- 
dren, which is not the case. Their skin is of a cop- 
per colour, their eyes large, black, and of a bright 
and sparkling colour, indicative of a subtle and dis- 
cerning mind. Their hair is of the some colour, 
and prone to grow long, straight, and seldom or ne- 
ver curled ; tlieir teeth are large and white. I never 
observed any decayed among them, which makes 
their breath as sweet as the air they exale. The 
A\ omen are about the stature of the English women, 
and much inclined to corpulency, which is seldom the 
case with the other sex. 

I shall not enter into a discussion about the cause 
of their hue. I shall barely mention the supposi- 
tions that are made respecting it. Some have as- 
serted, tliat it is derived principally from their 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 37 

anointing themselves with fat in the summer season, 
to prevent profuse perspiration, and this, combined 
With the influence of the sun, has given the tincture 
ot their complexion. To support the hvpothesis 
they assert, that the repeated above mentioned 
causes give colour to tlie parent, who procreates Iiis 
own likeness, until at length it is entailed on poste- 
nty. But notwithstanding this curious reasoning:, 
others arc of opinion, that tlie hand of the Creator 
gave the reddish hue to the Indians, the sable colour 
to tlie African, and that of wliite to the civilized na> 
tions. 

They esteem a beard exceedinglv unbecomine:, 
and take great pains to get rid of if; nor is there 
ever any to be perceived on their faces, excei)t when 
they grow old and become inattentive to their ap- 
pearance. Every crinose excrescence on other 
parts ol their body is lield in as great abhorrence bv 
them, and both sexes are equally careful to extirpate 
it, in winch they often employ much time. 

Tlie Pallotepallors, Serpentine, Mandan, and 
other interior tribes of Indians, pluck them out with 
bent pieces of hard wood, formed into a kind of nip- 
pers, made for that purpose ,• while those that have 
a communieation with Americans or Europeans 
procure from them wire, wJiich they ins:eniousiy 
make into an instrument resembling a scre\\ , which 
will take so firm a hold of the beard, that with a 
sudden twitch they extirpate them out by the roots, 
when considerable blood never fails to flow. 

The dress of the Indians, varies according to the 
tribe tliat they belong to ; but in general, it is very 
commodious, not to encumber them in pursuing: the 
chase, or tlieir enemy; tliose that inhabit the Mis- 
souri, I have often seen, in cold weather, witfiout 
any apparel to screen themselves from the incle- 
mency ot the weather. The lower rank of the Pal- 
lotepallors and Clatsops, wearnothin-in the sum- 
mer season, but a small garment about their hips, 
which is eituer manufactured out of bark or skins 
and which would vie with, if not excel, any Euro- 



38 NEW TRAVELS 

pean manufacture, being diversified with different 
colours, which give it a gay appearance. Their 
kings are generally dressed in i^obcs that are made 
out of small skins, (which takes several hundred 
for a garment) of different colours, neatly tanned, 
which they hang loosely over their shoulders. 

In deep snows they wear skins, which entirely 
cover their legs and feet, and almost answer for 
breeches: being held up by strings tied to tlic 
lower part of the waist. Their bodies in the win- 
ter season, are covered witli different kinds of 
skin, which are tanned with the fur on, which they 
wear next to the skin. Those of the men, who 
wish to appear more gay than others, pluck out 
tlie greatest part of their hair, leaving only small 
locks as fancy dictates, on which are hung differ- 
ent kinds of quills, and feathers of elegant plumage 
superbly painted. The Sioux and Osages, who 
traffic with the Americans, wear some of our ap- 
parel, such as sliirts and blankets ; the former 
they cannot bear tied at the wristbands and collar, 
and the latter they throw loosely over their shoul- 
ders. Their chiefs dress very gay; about their 
heads they wear all kinds of ornaments that can 
well be bestowed upon them, which are curiously 
wrought, and in the winter long robes of the rich- 
est fur that trail on the gi*ound. 

In the summer there is no great peculiarity, only 
what the higher rank wear is excessively orna- 
mented. 

The Indians paint their heads and faces yellow, 
gi*een, red and black ; wliich they esteem very or- 
namental. They also paint themselves wlien they 
go to war; but the method they make use of on this 
occasion differs from that which they wear merely 
as a decoration. 

The Chipa7vay young men, wlio are emolous of 
excelling tlieir companions in finery, slit the out- 
ward rim of both ears; at the same time they take 
care not to separate tlicm entirely, but leave the 
flesh thus cut, still untouched at both extremities ; 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 39 

around tliis spungy substance, from tlie upper to 
the lower part, they twist brass wire till the weight 
draws the amputated rim in a bow of five or six 
inches diameter, and draws it down almost to the 
shoulder. This decoration is esteemed gay and 
becoming. 

It is also a custom among them to bore their no- 
ses, and wear in them pendants of different sorts. 
Shells are often wore, which when painted are 
reckoned very ornamental. 

The dress of the Indians who inhabit the borders 
of Louisiana is for their legs, a kind of stocking, 
either of skins or cloth ; these are sewed up as 
much as possible in the shape of their leg, so as to 
admit of being drawn on and off; the edges of the 
stuff of which they are composed are left annexed 
to the seams, and hang loose about the breadth of 
a hand ; and this part which is placed on the out- 
side of tlie leg, is generally ornamented with lace 
and ribbons, and often with embroidery and porcu- 
pine quills variously coloured. Tlie hunters from 
Louisiana find these stockings much more conve- 
nient than any others. Their shoes are made of 
the skins of deer or elk ; these after being dressed 
with the hair on, are cut into shoes, and fashioned 
so as to be easy to their feet and convenient for 
walking. The edges around the ankle are decora- 
ted with pieces of brass or tin, fixed around a leather 
string about an inch long, which being placed very 
tliick, make a delightsome noise when they walk 
or dance. 

Tlie dress of the women in the summer season 
consists only of a peticoat that does not reach down 
to their knees. In the winter they wear a shift, 
made of skins which answers a very good purpose 
when they stand erect, as it is sufficiently low, 
but when they bend over they often put modesty to 
the blush. Their feet and legs are covered simi- 
larly to the other sex. 

Most of the female Indians who dwell on the 
west side of the Mississippi, near its confluence 



40 NEW TRAVELS 

with the Missouri, decorate their heads hy enclo- 
sing their hair in plates of silver ; it is a costly or- 
nament and is made use of by the highest rank only. 
Those of the lower rank make use of bones, which 
they manufacture to resemble that of silver. The 
silver made use of, is formed into thin plates of 
about four or five inches broad, in several of which 
they confine their hair. That plate which is near- 
est the head is of considerable width ; the next 
narrower, and made so as to pass a little way un- 
der the other, and gradually tapering till they 
get to a very ineonsiderahle magnitude. 

This proves to be of great expense, for they of- 
ten wear it on the back side of the head, extending 
to the full length of their hair, which is commonly 
very long. 

The women of every nation generally paint a 
spot against eacli about the size of a crown piece, 
some of them paint their hair, and sometimes a 
spot on the middle of the forehead. 

The Indians have no fixed habitations when they 
are hunting ,• but build their houses where conve- 
niency presents : which are made so small, that it 
obliges the inhabitants to grope about in them, be- 
ing so low as not to admit one to stand erect, and 
are without windows. Those that are built for a 
permanent residence arc much more substantial ; 
they are built of logs and bark, large enough to 
contain several apartments. Those built for the 
chiefs are often ycry elegant. That of the chief 
warrior of the Mahas, is at least sixty feet in cir- 
cumference, and lined witli fiii^, and painting. 
Th< furs are of various colours, many of wliich I 
had never seen before, and were extremely beauti- 
ful ; the vai'iety in colour formed a contrast that 
much addcil to its elegance. The paintings were 
elegant, and would adorn the dwellings of an opu- 
lent European prinee. But the houses of the com- 
nion people are very indifferent. 

Ihi :y have also moveable houses, which they 
^se for fishing, aud sometimes for hunting; which 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 41 

are made of deer skins, or birch bark sewed to- 
gether, which they cover over poles made for that 
purpose ; they are bent over to form a semicircle, 
which resemble those bent by the Americans for 
beans or hops to grow on, and are covered over as 
before mentioned, which are very light and easily 
transported where necessity requires. 

The best of their cabins have no chimneys, but 
a small hole to let the smoke through, which they 
are compelled to stop np in stormy weather; and 
when it is too cold to put out their fire, their huts 
are ilUed with clouds of smoke, which render them 
insvipportable to any but an Indian. 

The common people lie on bear skins, which are 
spread on the floor. Their ciiiefs sleep on beaver 
skins, which are sometimes elevated. 

Their utensils ai^e few, and in point of usefulness 
very defective ; those to hold water in, are made 
of the skins of animals and the knotty excrescences 
of hard wood ; their spoons are manufactured out 
of wood, or the bones of a buffalo, and are tolera- 
bly commodious, and I have often seen them ele- 
gant, and sometimes painted. 

The Flatheads and Clatsops make baskets out 
of rushes, that will hold water if they are not very 
dry. These two nations appear to have more of a 
mechanical genius, than any other people that I 
have ever been acquainted with. And I think they 
are not outrivalled by any nation on earth, when 
•taking into consideration their very limited me- 
chanical instruments. 

Many of the Indian nations make no use of 
bread, salt, and spices; and many live to be old 
without seeing or tasting of either. Those that 
live near the snowy mountains, live in a great 
jueasure on berries, whicli clothe the fields in great 
abundance. 

The Taukies and other Eastern tribes, where 
Indian corn grows, take green corn and beans, 
boil tltem together with bear's flesh, the fat of 



42 ISEW TRAVELS 

wliicli gives flavour and renders it beyond com- 
parison delicious ; they call this dish Suecatosh. 

In general they have no idea of the use of milk, 
although great quantities might be collected from 
buffalo and elk. They only consider it proper 
for the nourishment of the young of these beasts, 
in their tender state. It cannot be perceived that 
any inconvenience arises from the disuse of arti- 
cles so much esteemed by civilized nations, wltich 
they use to give a relish and flavour to their food. 
But on the contrary, the great healthiness of the 
Indians, and the unhealthiness of the sons of Epi- 
tHirus, prove that the diet of the former is the 
most salutary. 

They preserve their meat by exposing it to the 
vsun in the summer, and in the winter by putting it 
between cakes of ice, which keep it sweet, and free 
from any putrefactive quality. 

Their food consists in a great measure of the 
flesh of the bear, buflalo, and deer. Those that 
reside near the head of the Missouri and Columbia 
iivris, Ciiiefly make use of the buffalo and elk, 
v/hich are often seen from fifty to an hundred in 
a drove. When there are plenty of the two last 
mentioned beasts there are but a few of the former, 
and where there are many of the former, but few 
of the latter. 

The mode of roasting their meat, is by burning 
it under ground on the side of a hill, placing 
stones next to the meat; the mode of building to 
heat it, sowewhat resembles the fire made under a 
iime-kilsi. In this manner they roast the largest 
of their animals. 

The mode of cooking smaller pieces, is to roast 
it in stones, that are hewn out for the purpose. 

The Flatlieads and Clatsops procure a root 
about the size of a potatoe, wiiich grows sponta- 
neously and in great abundance, and is tolerably 
palatable, and perfectly agiees with the natives ; 
but made us all sick, vvhilc wc were among them. 
Before we descended the Columbia river, we were 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 4b3 

unable to procure game, and had recourse to the 
flesh of dogs and horses to preserve life, as those 
of roots would, without doubt, have destroyed us, 
and we were unable to procure any other kind of 
food. 

Many of the tribes of Indians are extremely 
dirty. I have seen the Maha Indians bring water 
in the paunches of animals that were very dirty, 
and in other things equally so. But tlie Maha 
chiefs are very neat and cleanly m their tents, 
apparel, and food. 

The Indians commonly eat in large parties, so 
that their meals may, with propriety, be termed 
feasts ; they have not set hours for their meals, but 
obey the dictates of nature. 

Many of the tribes dance before or after their 
meals, in devotion to the Great Spirit, for the bles- 
sings they receive. Being informed of the mode 
of our saying grace, they answered that they 
thought we were stupid and ungrateful not to ex- 
ercise our bodies for the great benefits that we 
recieved : but muttering with our lips, tiiey thought 
was an unacceptible sacrifice to the Great Spirit, 
and the stupid mode of the ceremony ridiculous in 
the extreme. In their feasts, the men and women 
eat apart; but in their domestic way of living, 
they promiscuously eat together. 

Instead of getting together and drinking as the 
Americans do, they make use of feasting as a sub- 
stitute. 

When their chiefs are assembled together, on 
any occasion, they always conclude with a feast, 
at whicii their hilarity and cheerfulness know no 
bounds. 

No people on earth are more hospitable, kind, 
and free, than the Indians. They will readily 
share with any of their own tribe the last i)art of 
their provisions, and even those of a diiferent 
nation. Tliough they do not keep one common 
stock, yet the community of goods is so prevalent 
D2 



4i NEW TRAVELS 

among tliem, and their generous dispositions ren- 
der it nearly of the same effect. 

They stiike fire by rubbing together two sticks 
of wood, of a particular kind, whicli they procure 
with ease ; fi'om other kinds it is impossible to 
procure fire. 

They are extremely circumspect and deliberate 
in every word and action ; tliere is nothing that 
hurries them into any intemperate wratli, but that 
inveteracy to their enemies, which is rooted in 
every Indian's breast, and never can be eradicated. 
In all other instances they are cool, and deliberate, 
taking care to suppress the emotions of the heart. 
If any Indian has discovered tliat a friend of his is 
in danger of being cut off by a lurking enemy, he 
does not inform him of his danger in direct terms, 
as though he was in fear, but he first coolly asks 
him which way he is going tliat day ; and having 
his answer; with the same indifference tells him, 
that he has been informed, that an obnoxious beast 
lies on the route where he is going, which might 
probably do him mischief. Tiiis hint proves suffi- 
cient ; and his friend avoids the danger w ith as 
much caution, as tliough every design and motion 
of his enemy had been pointed out to him. 

llus apathy often sliows itself, on occasions that 
would draw fourth the fervour of a susceptible 
heart. If an Indian had been absent from his 
family for several months, either on a war or 
hunting paily, and his wife and children meet him 
at some distance from his habitation, instead of the 
affectionate sensations that naturally arise in the 
breast of more refined beings, and are productive 
of mutual congratulations, he continues liis course 
without looking to the right or left; without pay- 
ing the least attention to those around him, till he 
arrives at his house : He there sits down, and w ith 
the same unconcern as if he had not been absent a 
day, smokes his pipe; those of his friends who 
foliowed him, do the same; perhaps it is several 
hours before he relates to them tlie incidents that 
have befallen him during his abscence^ though per- 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 45 

haps he has left a father, a brother, or a son dead 
on the iiehl, (whose loss he ought to liave lamented) 
or has been successful in the undertaking that call- 
ed him fi'om home. 

If an Indian has been engaged for several days 
in the chase or any other laborious expedition, and 
by accident continued long without food, when he 
arrives at the hut of a friend, where he knows that 
his wants will be immediately supplied, he takes care 
not to show the least symptoms of impatience, or be- 
tray, the extreme hunger that he is tortured with; 
but on being invited in, sits contentedly down, and 
smokes his pipe with as much composure as if his 
appetite was cloyed, and he was perfectly at ease : 
he does the same if among strangers. This custom 
is strictly adhered to by every tribe, and they esteem 
it a proof of fortitude, and think the reverse would 
entitle them to the appellation of old women. 

If you tell an Indian, that his children have 
greatly signalized themselves against an enemy, 
have taken many scalps, and brought home many 
prisoners, he does not appear to feel any great 
emotions of pleasure on the occasion ; his answer 

fenerally is, *• they have done well," and makes 
ut very little enquiiy about it ; on the contrary, 
if you inform him that his children are slain or 
taken prisoners ; he makes no complaints, he only 
replies, "it is unfortunate," and for some time, 
asks no questions about how it happened. 

This seeming indifferance, however, does not 
proceed from a want of the natural affections, for, 
notwithstanding they are esteemed savages, I 
never saw among any other people greater proofs 
of filial tenderness ; and, although they meet tlieir 
wives after a long absence witli the stoical indiffer- 
ence just mentioned, they are not, in general, void 
of conjugal affection. 

Another peculiarity is observable in their man- 
ner of paying visits. If an Indian goes to visit a 
particular person in a family, he mentions to 
whom his visit is intended, and the rest of the 



46 NEW TRAVELS, 

family immediately retire to the other end of the 
hut or tent, and are careful not to come near 
enough to interrupt them during the whole con- 
versation. The same method is pursued when a 
young man goes to pay his addresses to a young wo- 
man; but then he must be careful not to let love be 
the subject of his discourse while the day light re- 
mains. 

They discover an amazing sagacity, and ac- 
quire with the greatest readiness, any thing that 
depends upon the attention of the mind. By ex- 
perience, and an acute observation, they attain 
many perfections, to which the Americans are 
strangers. For instance, they will cross a forest, 
or a plain, which is two hundred miles in breadth, 
and reacli ^\itll great exactness the point at which 
they intend to arrive, keeping during the whole 
of that space in a direct line, without any ma- 
tei^ial deviations; and this they will do with the 
same ease, let the weather be fair or cloudy. 

With equal acuteness they will point to that part 
of the heavens, the sun is in, though it be inter- 
cepted by clouds or fogs ; beside this they are able 
to pursue with incredible facility the traces of man 
or beast, either on leaves or grass; and on this 
account it is witli great difficulty that a flying ene- 
mv escapes discovery. 

They are indebted for these talents not only to 
nature, but to an extraordinary command of the 
intellectual faculties, which can only be acquired by 
an unremitted attention, and by long experience. 

They are in general very happy in a retentive 
memory: tliey can recapitulate every particular 
that has been treated of in councils, and remember 
the exact time when they were held. Their belts 
of wampum preserve the substance of the treaties 
they have concluded with the neiglibouring tribes; 
for ages back, to which they will appeal, and 
refer with as much perspicuity, and readiness, as 
Europeans can to their written records. 

Every nation pays great respect to old age- 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 47 

The advice of a father will never receive any 
extraordinai^ attention from the young Indians; 
probably they receive it with only a bare assent; 
but they will tremble before a grandfather, and 
submit to his injunctions with the utmost alacrity. 
The words of the ancient part of the community 
are esteemed by the young as oracles. If they 
take during hunting parties, any game that is 
reckoned by them uncommonly delicious, it is 
immediately presented to the eldest of their rela- 
tions. 

They never suffer themselves to be overbur- 
thened with care ; but live in a state of perfect 
tranquility and contentment, being naturally indo- 
lent. If provisions, just sufficient for their subsis- 
tence, can be procured with little trouble, and near 
at hand, they will not go far, or take any extraor- 
dinary pains for it, though by so doing they might 
acquire greater plenty and of a more estimable 
kind. 

Having much leisure time they indulge this in- 
dolence to which they are prone, by sleeping or 
rambling about among their tents But when 
necessity obliges them to take tlie field, either to 
oppose an enemy, or to procure themselves food, 
they are alert and indofatigahle. Many instances 
of their activity, on these occasions, will be given 
when we treat of their wars. 

The greatest blemish in their cliaracter, is that 
savage disposition, which impels them to treat their 
enemies with a severity, that every other nation 
shudders at ; but if they are thus barbarous to 
those with whom they are at war, they are friendly, 
hospitable and humane in peace. It may with 
truth be said of them, that they are the woVst en- 
nemies, and the best friends of any people in the 
world. 

Tliey are, in general, strangers to the passion of 
jealousy, and brand a man with folly that is dis- 
trustful of his wife. Among some tribes the very 
idea is not known ; as tlie most abandoned of their 



48 - NEW TRAVELS 

young men very rarely attempt the virtue of mar- 
ried women, nor do tiiese put themselves in the 
way of solicitations; yet, tlie Indian women in 
general, are of an amorous dispositioii ; and be- 
fore they are married are not the less esteemed for 
the indulgence of their passions. 

The Indians, in their common state, are stran- 
gers to all distinction of pioperty, except in the 
articles of domestic use, which every on«- considers 
as iiis own, and increase as circiinistances admit. 
They are extremely liberal to each other and sup- 
ply the deficiency of their friends with any super- 
fluity of their own. 

In dangers they readily give assistance to any of 
their band that stand in need of it, without any 
expectation of return, except those just rewards 
that are always confered by the Indians on merit. 
Governed by the plain and equitable laws of nature, 
every one is rewarded according to his deserts ; 
and their equality of condition, manners, and pri- 
viliges, with that constant and social familiarity 
which prevails through every Indian nation, ani- 
mates them with a pure and patriotic spirit, that 
tends to tlie general good of the society to which 
they belong. 

If any of their neighboiir» are bereaved by death, 
or by an enemy, of their children, those who are 
possessed of the greatest number of prisoners, who 
are made slavesj supply the deficiency : and these 
are adopted by them and treated in every respect 
as if they realy were the children of the person to 
whom they are presented. 

The Indians can form to themselves no idea of 
the value of money ; they consider it, when they 
are made acquainted with the uses to which it is ap- 
plied, by other nations, as the source of innumera- 
ble evils. To it they attribute all the mischiefs that 
are prevalent among Europeans, such as treachery, 
plundering, devastation, and murder. 

They esteem it irrational, that one man should be 
possessed of a greater quantity than another, and 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 49 

are amazed that any lionour should be annexed to 
the possession of it. 

But that the want of this useless metal should be 
the cause of depriving persons of their liberty, and 
that on account of this particular distribution of it, 
great numbers should be shut up within the dreary 
walls of a prison, cut off from society of which they 
constitute apart, exceeds their belief; nor do they 
fail, on hearing- this part of the United »States' sys- 
tem of government related, to charge the institu- 
tors of it with a total want of humanity, and to 
brand them witli the names of savages, brutes. 

They show almost an equal degree of indifference 
for the productions of art. When any of these are 
shown them, they say, ^* It is pretty, I like to look 
at it, " and often are not inquisitive about the 
construction of it, neither can they form proper 
conceptions of its use. But if you tell them a per- 
son runs with great agility, is skilled in hunting, 
can direct with unerring aim a gun, or bends with 
ease a bow^ can dexterously work a canoe, under- 
stands the art of war, is acquainted with the situa- 
tions of the country, and can make his way without 
a guide through an immence forest, subsisting 
during this on a small quantity of provisions, they 
are in raptures ; they listen with great attention to 
the pleasing tale, and bestow the highest commen- 
dation on the hero of it. 

They make but very little use of physicians and 
medicine, and consequently they have but very few 
disease among them. There is seldom an Indian 
but what blooms with the appearance of health. 
They have no midwives among them ; and among 
several tribes the mother is without the assistance 
of any person being with her at the time of her de- 
livery, not even a female attendance. 

Soon after the birth of a child, it is placed on a 
board, which is covered with a skin stuffexl with 
soft moss : the child is laid on its back and tied to it. 
To these machines are tied strings, by which they 
hang them to branches of trees 5 or, if they do not 



50 NEW TRAVELS 

find trees handy, they lean them a,8^ainst a stump 
01' stone while they dress the deer or fish, or do 
any domestic business. In this position they are 
kept until they are several months old. When tak- 
en out they are suffered to go naked, and are daily 
bathed in cold water, which render them vigour- 
ous and active. 

The diseases manufactured by the modern sons 
of dissipation, are known by them. These hardy 
disciples of health, do not hear of the powerful and 
painful eloquence of the Gout, Consumption^ and the 
rest of the long catologue of Typhus diseases, 
which is preached to the votaries of Epicurus and 
Bacchus, when their repentence is too late. 

An Indian child is generally kept at the breats 
until it is two years old, and sometimes, though 
rarely, until three years. 

The Indians often occasion inflammatory disease, 
by I xcessive eating, after a fast of three or four 
days, when retreating from, or pursuing an enemy. 

The inequality of riches, the disappointment of 
ambition, and merciless oppressions, are not with 
them exciting causes of insanity, I niade great in- 
quiry, but was not able to learn, that a single case 
of melancholy or madness was ever known among 
them. 

The dreadful havoc that the small-pox has made, 
has necessarily been mentioned. 

The mode of curing a fever, is by profuse perspi- 
ration, which is effected by the patients being con- 
fined in a close tent or wigwarm, over a hole in 
the earth, in which red-hot stones are placed ; a 
quantity of hot water is then thrown upon the 
stones, which involves the patient in a cloud of va- 
pours and sweat ; in this situation he rushes out ; 
and plunges into a river of water, and from hence 
he retires into a warm bed. 

They never think of giving medicine, until they 
have first made an attempt to remove the disease 
by sacrifices and prayer ; and if the patient re- 
covers soon, it is attributed to the holy management 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 51 

of the priest ; and if medicine is to be used as tlie last 
alternative, they never administer it without its 
bemff accompanied with prayer, and a lar-c quan- 
tity of meat, which they consume on tiic fire for a 



sacrifice 



They have a plant among them, wJiich has the 
power of producing abortion. It is related by Mi\ 
Jelferson in his Notes on Virginia, that the Indians 
mhabitnig the frontiers possess a plant tliat pro- 
duces the same effect. 

Considering their ignorance of astronomv, time 
IS very irrationally divided by the Indians. "^Those 
m the interior parts (and of those I would gcncrallv 
be understood to speak) count their years by win- 
ters ; or, as they express themselves, by snows. 

Some nations among them reckon their years by 
moons, and make them consist of twelve svnodical 
or lunar months, observing, wJien thirty moons 
nave waned, to add a supernumerary one, which 
they term the Lost Moon ; and then begin to count 
as before. They pay a great regard to the first 
appearance of every moon ; and on the occasion 
always repeat some joyful sounds, stretching at tlie 
saine time their hands towards it. 

Every month has witJi them a name expressive of 
it season; for instance, they call the month of 
March (m which their year generally begins at the 
hrst new moon, after the vernal Equinox) the 
» orm Month or Moon ,• because at this time the 
worms quit their retreats in the bark of the trees, 
wood, &c. where they have sheltered themselves 
during the winter. 

The month of April is termed by tliem the montli 
of Plants. xMay, the month of Flower. June tiie 
Hot Moon. July, the Buck Moon. Their reason 
tor thus denominating these is obvious. 

August, the Sturgeon Moon; because in tliis 
month they catch great numbers of that fish. 

September, the Corn Moon; because in that 
month they gather in their Indian Corn. 

October, the Travelling Moon ; as they leave at 
E 



BZ ISEW TRAVELS 

this time their \illa.2;es, and travel towards the 
place wliere they intend to liiiut during the win- 
ei*. 

Noveniher, the Beaver Moon ; for in this month 
the Beavers begin to take shelter in their houses, 
having laid up a sufficient store of provisions for the 
winter s<^ason. 

Decciiiber, the Hunting Moon, because they em- 
ploy this month in pursuit of their game. 

January, the Cold Moon, as it generally freezes 
harder, and the cold is more intense in this than m 
any other month. 

Februarv, they call the Snow Moon, because 
more snow^ commonly falls during this month, than 
anv otiier in the winter. 

^y hen the moon does not shine they say the Moon 
is dead ; and some call tlie three last days of it the 
naked days. The moon's first appearance they 
term, is coming to life again. 

They make no division of weeks ; but days they 
count by sleeps ; half days by pointing to the sun 
at noon; and quarters by the rising and sitting ol 
tlie sun ; to express which in their traditions they 
make use of very significant hieroglyphics. 

The Indians are totally unskilled in geography 
as well as all other sciences ; and yet they draw on 
tiieii^ birch bark very exact charts or maps of the 
counti'ics they are acquainted with. The latitude 
and longitude in only wanting to make them tolera- 
blv complete. . ^ . 

Their sole knowledge in astronomy consists m 
b^iii£- able to point out the pole-star ; by which they 
rr£:iilate their course when they travel in the night. 
They reckon the distance of places, not by miles 
or leagues, but bv a day's journey, which accord- 
ino- to the best calculations I could make, appeal's 
toTie about tw( nty English miles. These they also 
divide into halves and quarters, and will demon- 
strate t];eni in their maps with great exactness, by 
the I'iorodvphics just mentioned, when they regu- 
ate in council their wai' pai'ties, or their most dis- 
ant hunting excursions. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 53 

Tlicy have no idea of arithmetic ; and tfiou^i 
they are able to count any number, figures as well 
as letters appear mysterious to them, and above 
their comprehension. 

Every separate body of Indians is divided into 
lands or tribes ; which band or tribe forms a little 
community with the nation to wliich it belongs. As 
the nation has some particidar symbol by which it 
is distinguished from others, so each tribe has a 
badge ironi which it is denominated 5 as that of the 
Eagle, the Panther, the Tiger, the Buffalo, ke. One 
band is represented by a Snake, another a Tortoise, 
a third a Squiri-el, a fourtli a Wolf, and a fifth aBuf- 
faloe. Througliout every Hation they particulize 
themselves in the same manner ; and the meanest 
person among them will remember his lineal descent, 
and distinguish himself by his respective family. 

Did not many circumstances tend to confute the 
supposition, I should be almost induced to coneliKte 
from this distinction of tribes, and the particular 
attachment of the Indians to them, that they derive 
their origin, as some have asserted, fi-om the Is- 
raelites* 

Besides this, every nation distinguishes them- 
selves by tlie manner of constructing^ their tents or 
huts. And so well versed are all the Indians in 
this distinction, that though there appears to be no 
difference on the nicest observations made by an 
American, yet they will immediately discover, from 
the position of a pole left in the ground, what na- 
tion has encamped on the spot many months be- 
fore. 

Every band has a chief who is termed the great 
chief, or the chief warrior ; and who is cliosen in 
consideration of his experience in war, and ot his 
approved valour, to direct tlieir military operations, 
and to regulate all concerns belonging to that de« 

Eartment, But this chief is not considered as the 
ead of the state. Besides the great warrior who is 
elected for Ids warlike qualifications, there is ano- 
ther who enjoys a ^re-eminence as his hereditary 



Bi NEW TRAVELS 

right, anil haiS the more immediate management of 
their civil affairs. This chief might with great pro- 
priety be denominated the Sachem ; whose assent 
is necessary in all conveyances and treaties, to which 
he affixes the mark of the tribe or nation. 

Though these two arc considered as the heads of 
the band, and tlie latter is usually denominated their 
king, yet the Indians are sensible of neither civil or 
military subordination. As every one of them en- 
tertains a high opinion of his consequence, avA is 
extremely tenacious of his liberty, all injunctions 
that carry with them the appearance of a positive 
command, are instantly rejected with scorn. 

On this account, it is seldom that their leaders are 
£0 indiscreet as to give out any of their oi'ders in a 
peremptory style ; a bare hint from a chief that he 
thinks such a thin^ necessary to be done, instantly 
arouses an emulation among the inferior ranks, and 
it is immediately executed with great alacrity. By 
this method the disgustful part of the command is 
evaded, and an authority that falls little short of ab- 
solute sway instituted in its room. 

Among the Indians no visible form of government 
is establislied ; they allow of no such distinction as 
magistrate and subject, every one appearing to en- 
joy an independence that cannot be controled. 
Ihe object of government among them is rather fo- 
reign than domestic, for their attention seem more 
to be employed in preserving sucli a union among 
members of their tribes as will enable them to watch 
the motions of their enemies, and act against them 
with concert and vigour, than to maintain interior 
order by any public regulations. If a scheme that 
appeai^s to be of service to the community is propos- 
ed by the chief, every one is at liberty to choose 
whether he will assist in carrying it on ; for tliey 
have no compulsory laws that lay them under any 
restrictions. If violence is committed, or blood is 
shed, the right of I'evenging these misdemeanors is 
left to the family of the injured : the chiefs assume 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 55 

neither the power of inflicting or moderating the 
punishment. 

Some nations, where the dignity is hereditary, 
limit the succession to the female line. On the death 
of a chief, his sister's son sometimes succeeds him 
in preference to his own son ; and if he happens to 
have no sister, the nearest female relation assumes 
the dignity. This accounts for a woman being at 
the head of the Winnebago nation, which, before I 
was acquainted w^ith their laws, appeared strange to 
me. 

Each family has a right to appoint one of its chiefs 
to be an assistant to the principal cliief, w^ho watch- 
es over the interest of his family, and witliout whose 
consent nothing of a public nature can be carried 
into execution. These are generally chosen for their 
ability in speaking ; and such only are permitted 
to make orations in their councils and general as- 
semblies. 

In this body, with the hereditary chief at its head, 
the supreme authority appears to be lodged ; as by 
its determination every transaction relative to their 
hunting, to their making war or peace, and to all 
their public concerns, are regulated. Next to these, 
the body of warriors which comprehends all that 
are able to bear arms, hold their rank. This divi- 
sion has sometimes at its head tlie chief of the na- 
tion, if he has signalized himself by any renowned 
action, if not, some chief that has rendered himself 
famous. 

In their councils which are held by the foregoing 
members, every affair of consequence is debated ; 
and no enterprise of the least moment undertaken, 
unless it there meets with the general approbation 
of the chiefs. They commonly assemble in abut or 
tent appropriated to tliis pju'p'ose, and being seated 
in a circle on the ground, the eldest chief rises and 
makes a speech, when he has concluded, another 
gets up, and thus they speak if necessary, by 
turns. 

On this occasion their language is nervous, and 
E2 



56 iSfEW TRAVELS 

their manner of expression emphatical. Theii* 
style is adorned with images, comparisons, and 
strong metaphors, and is equal in allegories to 
that of any of the eastein nations. In all their set 
speeches tiiey express themselves with much vehe- 
mence, hut in common discourse according to our 
usual method of speech. 

Hie young men are suffered to he present at 
the councils, though they are not allowed to make 
a speech till they are regularly admitted; they 
however listen with great attention, and to show 
that they hoth undeistand and approve of the reso- 
lutions taken hy the assembled chiefs, they fre- 
quently exclaim, "That is right," "That is 
good.'' 

The customary mode among all ranks of expres- 
singj^their assent, and which they repeat at the end 
of almost every period, is by uttering a kind of 
forcible aspiration, which seems like an union of 
the letters OAH. 

Dancing is a favourite exercise among the In- 
dians: they never meet on any public occasion, 
but this makes a part of the entertainment; and 
when they are not engaged in war or huntings the 
youth of *bi.th sexes amuse themselves in this man- 
ner every evening. 

They always dance, as I have just observed Ri 
tlieii' feasts. In these as well as other dances, every 
man i ises in his turn, and moves about with great 
freedom and boldness ; singing as he does so, the 
exploits of his ancestors. During this tlie compa- 
ny who are seated on the ground in a circle around 
the dancer, join with him in making the cadence, 
h} an odd tune, which they utter all together, 
and which sounds, " Heli, heh, heh." These 
notes, if they might be so termed, are articulated 
with a harsh accent, and straned out with the ut- 
mt st force of their lungs; so that one would ima^ 
gir.e theii- strength must soon be exhausted by it; 
instead of which, they repeat it with the same vio- 
lence during the whole of the enteiiaimBenL 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 5r 

The women, particularly those of the western na- 
tions dance very gracefully. Tiiey carry themselves 
erect, and with theii' arms hanging down close to 
their sides, move first a few yards to the right, and 
then hack again to the left. This movement they 
perform without taking any steps as an American 
would do, but with their feet conjoined, moving 
by turns their toes and heels. In tliis manner 
they glide with great agility to a certain distance, 
and then return : and let those who join in the 
dance be ever so numerous, they keep time so ex- 
actly with each otlier, that no interruption ensues. 
During tliis, at stated periods, they mingle their 
shrill voices, with tlic hoarser ones of the men, 
who sit around (for it is observed that the sexes 
never intermix in the same dance) which with 
the music of the drums and chicicoes, make an 
agreeable harmony. 

The Indians have several kinds of dances, 
wliich they use on different occasions, as the Pipe 
Calumet Dance, tlie War Dance, the Marriage 
Dance, and the Dance of the sacrifice. The 
movements of every one of these are dissimilar; 
but it is almost impossible tp convey any idea of 
the points in which they are unlike. 

Different nations likewise vary in their manner 
of dancing. The Chipeway throw themselves into 
a greater variety of attitudes than any other peo- 
ple; sometimes tliey hold their heads erect, at 
others they bend them almost to the ground; then 
recline on one side, and immediately on tlie other. 
Others carry themselves more upright, step firmer, 
and move more gracefully ; but tliey all accompa- 
ny their dances Nvith the disagreeable noise just 
mentioned. 

The Pipe Dance is the principal and most plea- 
sing to a spectator of any of them, being the least 
frantic, and the movement of it mfjst graceful. It 
is but on particular occasions that it is used : as 
when ambassadors from an enemy arrive to tr^t 



58 NEW TRAVELS 

of peace, or wlien strangers of eminence pass 
through their territories. 

The >\ar Dance, which they use both before 
they set out on their war parties, and on their 
return fi^m them, strikes terror into strangers. 
It is perfoi'med, as others, amidst a circle af the 
warriors ; a chief g-enerally begins it, who moves 
from the riglit to the left, singing at the same 
time botli his own exploits, and those of his ances- 
tors. When he has concluded his account of any 
memorable action, he gives a violent blow w^ith 
his war club, against a post that is fixed in the 
ground, near the centre of the assembly for this 
purpose. 

Every one dances in his turn, and recapitulates 
the wondcrous deeds of his family, till they all at 
last join in the dance. Then it becomes truly 
alai'ming to any stranger that happens to be 
among them, as they thi'ow themselves into every 
horrible and terrifying posture that can be ima- 
gined, rehearsing at the same time the parts they 
expect to act against their enemies in the field. 
During this they hold their sliarp knives in tlieir 
hands, with which, as they ^^hirl about^ they are 
every moment in danger of cutting each other^s 
throats ; and did they not shun the threatened mis- 
chief with inconceivable dexterity, it could not 
be avoided. By these motions they intend to 
repi^sent the manner in which they kill, scalp, 
and take their prisoners. To heighten the scene, 
they set up the same hideous yells, cries, and 
war-hoops they use in time of action : so that it is 
impossible to consider them m any other light than 
as an assemblage of demons. 

After some hours spent in dancing, the feast 
begins ; the dishes being brought near me, I per- 
ceived that they consisted of dog's flesh: and I 
'was informed that at all public grand feasts they 
never make use of any otlier kind of food. 

In this custom of eating dog-'s flesh on particu- 
Ijur occasions, they resemble the inhabitants of some 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 59 

of tiie countries that lie on the northeast borders of 
Asia. The author of the account of Kamschatka, 
published by order of the empress of Russia: in- 
forms us, that the people inhabiting Koreka, a 
country north of Kamschatka, who wander about 
in liords like the Arabs, when they pay their 
worship to tlie evil beings, kill a rein deer or a 
dog', the iicsh of which they eat, and leave the 
head and tongue sticking on a pole with the front 
towards the east. Also, that when they are afraid 
of any infectious distemper, they kill a dog, and 
winding the guts about two poles, pass between 
them. These customs in which they are neai'ly 
imitated by the Indians, seem to add strength to my 
supposition, that America was first peopled from 
this quai'ter. 

" I know not," says a traveller among them, 
"under what class of dances to rank that per- 
formed by the Indians who came to my tent when 
I landed near lake Pepin, on the banks of the 
Mississippi. When I looked out, as I there men- 
tioned, I saw about twenty naked young Indians, 
the most perfect in their shape, and by far the 
handsomest of any I had ever seen, coming to- 
w aids me, and dancing as they approached, to the 
music of their drums. At every ten or twelve 
yards they halted, and set up their yells and cries. 

" When they reached my tent, I asked them to 
come in ; which, without deigning to make me any 
answer, they did. As I observed that they were 
painted red and black, as they usually are when 
they go against an enemy, and perceived that 
some parts of the war dance was intermix t with 
their other movements, I doubted not but they 
were set on by the inimical chief who had refused 
my salutation: I therefore determined to sell my 
life as dear as possible. To this pui-pose, I re- 
ceived them sitting on my chest with my gun and 
pistols beside me, and ordered my men to keep a 
watchful eye on them and be also upon their 
guard. 



60 NEW TRAVELS 

^* The Indians being entered they continued their 
dance alternately, singing at the same time oi' 
their heroic exploits, and the superiority of their 
race over every people. To enforce their lan- 
guage, though it was uncommonly nervous and 
expressive, and such as would of itself have car- 
ried terror to tlie firmest heart, at the end of 
every period they struck their war-clubs against 
the poles of my tent with such violence, tiiat I 
expected every moment it would have tumbled 
upon us. As each of them in dancing round, pas- 
sed by me they placed their right hand above 
their eyes, and coming close to me, looked me 
steadily in the face, which I could not construe 
into atoken of friendship. My men gave them- 
selves up for lost, and I acknowledge, for my 
own part, that I never found my apprehensions 
more tumultuous on any occasion. 

^* When they had nearly ended their dance, I 
presented to them the pipe of peace, but they 
would not receive it. I then, as my last resource, 
thought I would try what presents would do ; ac- 
cording I took from my chest some ribbands and 
trinkets, which I laid before them. These seemed 
to stagger their resolutions, and to avert in some 
measure their anger; for after holding a consul- 
tation together, they sat down on the ground, 
which I considered as a favourable omen. 

** Thus it proved that in a short time they re- 
ceived the pipe of peace, and lighting it first pre- 
sented it to me, and then smoked with it themselves. 
Soon ofter they took up the presents, which had 
hitherto lain neglected, and appearing to be 
greatly pleased with them, departed in a friendly 
manner. And never did I receive greater pleasure 
than at getting rid of such formidable guests. 

" It was not ever in my power to gain a thor- 
ough knowledge of the designs of my visitors. I 
had sufficient reason to conclude that they were 
hostile, and that their visit, at so late an hour, 
was made through the instigation of the Grand 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 61 

-Sautor; but I was afterwards informed that it 
might be intended as a compiiment which they 
usually pay to the chiefs of every other nation 
who happen to fall in witli them, and that the cir- 
cumstances in their conduct whicli had appeared 
so suspicious to me, were merely the effects of 
their vanity and designed to impress on the minds 
of those wiiom they thus visited an elevated opinion 
of their valour and prowess. In the mornin.2; 
before I continued my route, several of their 
wives brought me a present of some sugar, for 
w hom I found a few more ribbands. 

" The dance of the sacrifice is not so denomi- 
nated from their offering up at the same time a 
sacrifice to any good or evil spirit, but is a dance 
to which tiie Naudowessies give that title from 
being used when any public fortunate circumstance 
befals them. Whilst I resided among them, a line 
lar^e deer aecidently strayed into the middle of 
their encampment, which they soon destroyed. As 
this happened just at the new* moon, they esteemed 
it a lucky omen; and having roasted it whole, 
every one in the camp partook of it. After their 
feast,' they all joined in a dance, which they from 
its being somewhat of a religious nature, termed 
a dance of the sacrifice."^ 

Hunting is the principal occupation of the In- 
dians ; they are trained to it from theii* youth, and 
it is an exercise which is esteemed no less honour- 
able tlian necessary toward their subsistence. A 
dexterous and resolute hunter is held in nearly as 
great estimation by them as a distinguished 
warrior. Scarcely any device, which tlie ingenuity 
of man has discovered for ensnaring or dcstr-jying 
those animals that supply tliem with food, or whose 
skins ai^ valuable, is unknown to them. 

AThilst they are engaged in tiiis exercise, they 
shake off the indolence peculiar to their nature., and 

* See Dr. Hubbard* s Compilation of Indian Hi^- 

fOry, 



62 NEW TRAVELS 

become active, persevering, and indefatigable. 
They are equally sagacious in finding their prey, 
and in the means tliey use to destroy it. They 
discern the footsteps of the beast they ai'e in pursuit 
of, although they are imperceptible to every other 
eye, and can follow them with certainty through 
the pathless forest. 

The beasts that the Indians hunt, both for their 
flesh, on which they subsist, and for their skins, of 
which they either make their apparel, or barter 
with the Europeans fer necessaries, are the buffalo, 
elk, deer, moose, carriboo, bear, beaver. Otter, 
martin, &c. I defer giving a description of these 
animals here, and shall only, at present, treat of 
the manner of hunting them. 

The route they shall take for this purpose, and 
the parties that shall go on the different expeditions, 
are fixed in their general councils, whicli are held 
some time in the summer, when all the operations 
for the ensuing winter are concluded on. The chief 
warrior, whose province it is to regulate their pro- 
ceedings on this occasion, with great solemnity is- 
sues out an invitation to those who choose to attend 
him ; for the Indians, as before observed, acknow- 
ledge no superiority, nor have they any idea of 
compulsion ; and every one that accepts it, pre- 
pares himself by fasting during several days. 

The Indians, do not fast as some other nations 
do, on the richest and most luxurious food, but they 
totally abstain from every kind, either of victuals 
or drink ; and such is their patience and resolution, 
that the most extreme thirst could not oblige them 
to taste a drop of water ; yet amidst this severe ab- 
stinence they appear clieerful and happy. 

The reasons they give for thus fasting, are, tliat 
it enables them freely to dream, in which dreams 
they are informed where tliey shall find the greatest 
plenty of game; also, that it averts the displeasure 
of the evil spirits, and induces them to be propitious. 
They also on these occasions blacken those parts of 
their bodies that are uncovered. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 63 

The fast being ended, and the place of hunting 
made known, tlie chief who is to conduct them, 
gives a grand feast to those who are to form the dif- 
ferent parties : of which none of them dare to par- 
take till they have bathed themselves. At this feast, 
notwithstanding they have fasted so long, they eat 
Avith great moderation ; and tlie chief that presides 
employs himself in rehearsing the feats of those 
who have been most successful in the business they 
are about to enter upon. They soon after set out 
on the march towards the place appointed, painted 
or rather bedaubed with black, amidst the acclama- 
tions of all the people. 

It is impossible to describe their agility or perse- 
verance, whilst they are in pursuit of their prey ; 
neither thickets, ditches, torrents, pools, or rivers 
stop them ; they always go straight forward in the 
mo^t direct line they possibly can, and there are few 
of the savage inhabitants of the woods that they can- 
not overtake. 

When they hunt for bears, they endeavour to find 
out their retreats ; for during tlie winter, these ani- 
mals conceal themselves in the hollow trunk of trees, 
or make themselves holes in the ground, wherethey 
continue without food, whilst the severe weather 
lasts. 

When the Indians think they have arrived at a 
place where these animals usually haunt, they form 
themselves into a circle according to their number, 
and moving onward, endeavour, as they advance 
towards the centre, to discover the reti*eats of their 
pi'ey. By this means, if any lie in the intermediate 
space, they are sure of arousing and bringing tliem 
down, either with their bows or their guns. The 
bears will take to flight at siglitof a man or a dog, 
and will only make resistance when they are ex- 
tremely hungry, or after they are wounded. 

The Indian method of hunting the buff\\lo is by 

forming a circle or a square, nearly in the same 

manner as wlien they search for tlie bear. Having 

taken their different stations, they set the grass, 

F 



6i NEW TRAVELS 

wliicli at this time is rank and dry, on lire, and 
these animals who are extremely fearful of that 
element, Hying with precipitation hefore it, great 
numbers ai'c hemmed in a small compass, and 
scarcely a single one escapes. 

They liave diffei'ent ways of hunting the elk, the 
deer, and tlie carriboo. Sometimes they seek them 
out in the woods, to which they retire during the 
severity of the cold, where tliey are easily shot from 
behind tlie trees. In the more northern climates 
they take the advantage of the weather to destroy 
tlieelk; wlien the sun has just strength enough to 
melt the snow, and the frost in the night forms^ a 
kind of crust on the surface, this animal being 
lieavy, breaks it with his forked hoofs, and with 
difliculty extricates himself from it : at this time 
therefore he is soon overtaken and destroyed. 

Some nations haAX a method of hunting these^ni- 
mals which is more easily executed, and free from 
danger. The hunting party divide themselves into 
two bands, and choosing a spot near the borders of 
some river, one party embarks on board their ca- 
noes, whilst the other forming themselves into a se- 
micircle on the land, the flanks of which reach the 
shore, let loose their dogs, and by this means rouse 
a'i the game that lies Within these bounds ; they then 
drive them towards the I'ivei*, into which they no 
sooner enter, than the greatest part of them areim- 
mediately despatched by those who remain in the 
eanoes. ^ 

Both the elk and buffalo are very furious when 
they are wounded, and will turn fiercely on their 
|)ursuers, and trample them under their feet if the 
hunter finds no means to complete theii' destruction, 
or does not seek for security in flight to some ad- 
jacent ti-ee^^ by this method they are frequently 
avoided, and so<tired with the pursuit, that they vo- 
luntarily give it o\ ^i^ 

But the hunting iirvliich the Indians, particu- 
larly those who iiiliabit tJibvoiorthern parts, chiefly 
jcmploy themselves, jand from^vhich they reap tJie 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 65 

greatest advantage, is tlie beaver hunting. The 
season for this is tliroug'hout the whole of the win- 
ter, from November to April ; during which time 
the fur of these animals is in the greatest perfec- 
tion. A description of this extraordinary animal, 
the construction of their huts, and tlie regulations 
of their almost rational community, I shall give in 
another place. 

The hunters make use of several methods to de- 
stroy tliem. Those generally practised, are either 
that of taking them in snares, cutting through the 
ice, or opening their causeways. 

As the eyes of these animals are very quick and 
their hearing exceedingly acute, great precau- 
tion is necessary in approaching their bodies ; for 
as they seldom go far from t!ie water, and their 
houses are always built close to the side of some 
large river or lake, or dams of tlieir own cojistruc- 
tiou, upon the least alarm they hasten to tlie deep- 
est part of the water, and dive immediately to the 
bottom ; as they do this tliey make a great noise by 
beating the water with their tails; on purpose to 
put the whole fraternity on their guard. 

They take them with snares in the following 
manner; though tlie beavers usually lay up a 
sufficient store of provisions to serve for their sub- 
sistence during the winter, they make' from time to 
time excursions to the neighbouring woods to pro- 
cure fresh supplies of food. 

The hunters having found out their haunts, place 
a trap in their way, baited with small pieces of 
bark, or young shoots of trees, wliicli the beaver 
has no sooner laid hold of, tlian a large log of 
Avood falls upon liim, and breaks his back; his ene- 
mies; who are upon the watch soon appear, and 
instantly despatch the helpless animal. 

At other times when the ice on the rivers and 
lakes is about half a foot thick, they make an open- 
ing through it with their hatchets, to which the 
beavers will soon hasten, on being disturbed at 



66 NEW TRAVELS 

their houses, for a supply of fresh ah% As their 
breath occasions a considerable motion in the wa- 
ter, the hunter has sufficient notice of their ap- 
proach, and methods are easily taken for knock- 
ing them on the head the moment they appear above 
the surface. 

When the houses of the beavers happen to be 
near a rivulet, tliey are more easily destioyed : the 
hunters then cut the ice, and spreading a net un- 
der it, break down the cabins of the beavers, who 
never fail to make towards the deepest part, where 
they are entangled and taken. But they must not 
be suffered to remain there long, as they would 
soon extricate themselves with their teeth, which 
are welljvuown to be excessively sharp and strong. 

The Indians take great care to hinder their 
dogs from touching the bones of the beavers. The 
reasons they give for these precautions, are, first, 
that the bones are so excessively hard, they spoil 
the teeth of the dogs ; and secondly they are ap- 
prehensive they shall so exasperate the spirits of 
the beavers by this permission, as to render the 
next hunting season unsuccessful. 

When the Indians destroy buffaloes, elks, deer, 
&c. they generally divide the flesh of such as they 
have taken among the tribe to which they belong, 
But in hunting the beaver, a few families usually 
unite and divide the spoil between them. Indeed, 
in the fust instance tliey generally pay some atten- 
tion in the division to their own families ; but no 
jealousies or murmui'ings are ever known to arise 
on account of any apparent partiality. 

Among the Naudowessies, if a person shoots a 
deer, buftalo, 6cc. and it runs a considerable dis- 
tance before it drops, where a person belonging to 
another tribe, being nearer, first sticks a knife 
into it, the game is considei'ed as the property of 
the latter, notwithstanding it had been mortally 
wounded by the formei'. Tliough this custom ap- 
pears to be arbitrary and unjust, yet that people, 
clicerfuUy submit to it. This decision is, however. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 6? 

very different from that practised by the Indians 
on the back of the colonies, where the first person 
that Iiits is entitled to the best share. 

The Indians begin to bear arms at the age of 
fifteen, and lay them aside when they arrive at the 
age of sixty. Some nations to the southward, I 
have been informed, do not continue their military 
exertions after they are fifty. 

In every band or nation there is a select number 
who are styled the warriors, who are always ready 
to act either offensively or defensively as occasion 
requires. These are well armed, bearing t}ie 
weapons commonly used among them which vary 
according to the situation of their countries. Some 
make use of tomahawks, knives, and fire-arms; 
but tliose who have not an opportunity of purchas- 
ing these kinds of weapons, use bows and arrows, 
and also the Casse Tete, or War Club. 

The Indians that inhabit still furtlier to the west- 
ward, a country which extends to the South Sea, 
use in fight a warlike instrument that is very un- 
common. Having great plenty of horses, they al- 
ways attack their enemies on horseback, and 
encumber themselves with no other weapon than a 
stone of a middling size, curiously wrought, which 
they fasten by a string about a yard and a lialf 
long, to their right arm, a little above the elbow. 
These stones they conveniently carry in their 
hands till they reach their ennemies, and then 
swinging them with great dexterity, as they ride 
full speed, never fail of doing execution. The 
country which these tribes possess, abounding with 
large extensive plains, those who attack them 
seldom return ; as tlie swiftness of the horses on 
which they are mounted, enables them to over- 
take even the fleetest of tlieir invaders. 

I was informed that unless they found morasses 
or thickets, to which they could ^-ctire they were 
sure of being cut off; to prevent tliis tliey always 
took care whenever they made an onset, to do it 
ccar such i^etreats as were impassable for cavalrv, 
F 2 



68 NEW TRAVELS 

they then having a great advantage over their en- 
nemies, whose weapons could not reach them 
there. 

Some nations make use of a javelin, pointed 
with hone, worked into different forms 5 hut the 
Indian weapons in general are bows and arrows, 
and the shoi't club already mentioned. The latter 
is made of a very hard wood, and the head of it 
fashioned round like a ball, about three inches and 
a half diameter ; in this rotund part is fixed an 
edge resembling tliat of a tomahuwk, either of 
steel or flint, whichsoever they can procure. 

The dagger is peculiar to some nations, and of 
ancient construction, but they can give no account 
how long it has been in use among them. It was 
originally made of flint or bone, but since they 
have had communication with the European tra- 
ders they have formed it of steel. The length of 
it is about ten inches, and that part close the han- 
dle nearly three inches broad. Its edges are keen, 
and it gradually tapers towards a point. They 
wear it in a sheath made of deer's leather, neatly 
ornamented with porcupine's quils ; and it is usu- 
ally hung by a string, decorated in the same man- 
ner, which reaches as low only as the breast. 
This curious weapon is worn by a few of the prin^ 
eipal chiefs alone, and considered both as an useful 
instrument, and an ornamental badge of supe- 
riority. ^ 

I observed among tliem a few targets or shields, 
made of raw buftalo hides, and in the form of 
those used by tha ancients; but as the number of 
these was small, and I could gain no intelligence 
of the sera in whicli they first were introduced 
among them, I suppose those I saw liad descended 
Irom father to son, for many generations. 

Tlie reasons the Indians give for making war 
against one anotlier, are much the same as those 
urged by more civilized nations for disturbing the 
tranquifity of their neighbours. The pleas of th(i 
former are in general however, more rational and 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 69 

just, than such as are brought by Europeans in 
vindication of their proceedings. 

The extension of empire is seldom a motive with 
these people to invade and to commit depredations 
on the territories of those who happen to dwell 
near them. To secure the rights of hunting within 
particular limits, to maintain the liberty of passing 
-through their accustomed tracts, and to guard 
those lands, which they consider from a long tenure 
as theii- own, against any infringement, are the 
general causes of those dissentions that so often 
break out between the Indian nations, and which 
are carried on with so much animosity 

Though strangers to the idea of separate pro- 
perty, yet the most uncultivated among them are 
well acquainted with the rights of the community 
to the domains they possess, and oppose with vi- 
gour every encroachment on them. 

Notwitlistanding it is generally supposed, that 
from their territories being so extensive, the 
boundaries of them cannot be ascertained, yet I 
am well assured tliat the limits of each nation in 
the interior parts are laid down in their rude plans 
with great precission. By theirs, as I have just 
observed, was I enabled to regulate my own ; and 
after the most exact observations and inquiries, I 
found but very few instances in which they erred. 

But interest is not cither tlie most frequent or 
most powerful incentive to their making war on 
each other. The passion of revenge, wJiich is the 
distinguisliing cliaracteristic of these people, is the 
most general motive. Injuries are felt by tJicm with 
exquisite sensibility, and vengeance pfirsued with 
unremitted ardour. To this may be added, that 
natural excitation which every Indian is sensible 
of as soon as he approaches the age of manhood, to 
give proof of iiis valour and prowess. 

As they are early possessed with a notion that 
war ought to be tlie chief business of tiicir lives, 
that there is notliing more desirable than tlie repu- 
tation of being a great warrior, and that the scalps 



70 NEW TRA>T5LS 

of their ennemies, or a number of prisoners are 
alone to be esteemed valuable, it is not to be won- 
dered at that the young Indians are continually 
restless and uneasy if their ardour is repressed, 
and they are kept in a state of inactivity. Either 
of these jiropensitics, the desire of revenge, or the 
gratification of an impulse, that by degrees be- 
comes habitual to them, is sufficient, frequently to 
induce them to commit hostilities on some of the 
neighbouring nations. 

When tlie chiefs find any occasion for making 
war, they endeavour to ai'ouse their habitudes, and 
by that means soon excite their warriors to take 
arms. For this purpose they make use of their 
martial eloquence, nearly in the following words, 
which never fails of proving effectual : " the bones 
of our deceased countrymen lie uncovered, they 
call out to us to revenge their wi'ongs, and we 
must satisfy their request. Their spirits cry out 
against us. They must be appeased. The genii, 
who are the guardians of our honour, inspire us 
with a resolution to seek the ennemies of our mur- 
dered brothers. Let us go and devour those by 
whom they were slain. Sit there no longer inac- 
tive, give way to the impulse of your natural va- 
lour, anoint your hair, paint your faces, fill your 
quivers, cause the foi*est to resound with your 
songs, console the spirits of the dead, aud tell them 
they shall be revenged." 

Animated by these exhortations the warriors 
snatch their arms in a transport of fury, sing the 
song of war, and burn with impatience to imbrue 
their hands in the blood of their enemies. 

Sometimes private chiefs assemble small parties 
and make excursions against those with whom 
they are at wai^ or such as have injured them. A 
single warrior, prompted by revenge or a desire 
to show his prowess, will march unattended several 
hundred miles, to surprise and cut off a straggling 
party. 

These irregular sallies however, are not always 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 71 

approved of by the elder chiefs, though they are 
often obliged to connive at them. 

But when a war is national and undertaken by 
the community, their deliberations are formal and 
slow. The elders assemble in council, to which all 
the head warriors and young men are admitted, 
where they deliver their opinions in solemn 
speeches, weighing w^ith maturity the nature of 
the enterprise they are about to engage in, and 
balancing with great sagacity, tlie advantages or 
inconveniences that will arise from it. 

Their priests are also consulted on the subject, 
and even sometimes, the advice of the most intelli- 
gent of their women is asked. 

If the determination be for war, they prepare 
for it without much ceremony. 

The chief warrior of a nation does not on all oc- 
casions head the war party himself, lie frequently 
deputes a warrior of whose valour and prudence he 
has a good opinion. The person thus lixed on be- 
ing first bedaubed with black, observes a fast 
of several days, during which he invokes the Great 
Spintf or deprecates the anger of the evil ones, 
holding while it lasts no converse with any of his 
tribe. 

He is particularly careful at the same time to ob- 
serve his dreams, for on these do they suppose their 
siiccess will in a great measure depend; and from 
the firm persuasion every Indian, actuated by his 
own presumptuous thoughts is impressed with, that 
he shall march forth to certain victory, these are 
generally favourable to his wishes. 

After he has fasted as long as custom prescribes, 
he assembles the warriors, and holding a belt of 
wampum in his hand, thus addresses them : 

*• Brothers ! by the inspiration of the Great Spirit 
I now speak unto you, iyid by him am I prompted 
to carry into execution the intentions wliich I am 
about fo disclose to you. The blood of our deceased 
brother is not yet wiped away ; their bodies are n;)t 
yet covered, and I am going to perform this duty 
to them,*' 



^:^ NEW TRAVELS 

Having then made known to tliem all the moth es 
that induce him to take wp arms against the nation 
with whom they are to engage, he thus proceeds : 
'*! have therefore resolved to march through thQ 
war path to surprise them. We will eat their flesh 
and drink their hlood ,• we will take scalps and 
make prisoners ; and should we perish in this glo- 
rious enterprise, we shall not be forever hid in the 
dust, for this belt shall be a recompense to him who 
buries the dead." Having said this, he lays on the 
ground, and he who takes it up declares himself his 
lieutenant, and is considered as the second in com- 
mand ; this, however, is only done by some distin- 
fuished warrior who has a right by the number of 
is scalps, to the post. 

Though the Indians thus assert that they will eat 
the flesh and drink the blood of their enemies, the 
threat is only to be considered as a figurative ex- 
pression. Notwithstanding they sometimes devour 
the heai-is of tliose they slay, and drink the blood, 
by w ay of bravado, or to gratify in a more complete 
manner their revenge. 

The chief is now washed from his sable covering, 
anointed with bear's fat, and painted with their red 
paint, in such figures as will make him appeal* 
most terrible to his enemies. He then sings the w^ar 
song, and enumerates his warlike actions. Having 
done this he fixes his eyes on the sun, and pays his 
adoration to tjie Crveat Spint, in which he is accom- 
panied by all the warriors. 

This ceremony is followed witli dances, such as I 
have before described ; and the whole concludes 
with a feast which usually consists of dog's flesh. 

This feast is held in the hut or tent of the chief 
warrior, to which all those who intend to accom- 
pany him in his expedition send their dishes to be 
filled ; and during the feast, notwithstanding he has - 
fasted so long, he sits composedly with his pipe in 
his mouth, and recounts the valorous deeds of his 
family. 

As the hopes of having their wounds, should they 



AMOXG THE INDIANS. 73 

receive any, j^roperly treated, and expeditiously 
cured, must be some additional inducement to the 
warriors to expose themseh es more freely to dan- 
ger, the priests, who are also their doctors, pre- 
pare such medicines as will prove efficacious. With 
great ceremony they carry various roots and plants 
and pretend tliat they impart to them the power of 
healing. 

Notwithstanding this superstitious method of 
proceeding, it is very certain that they have ac- 
quired a knowledge of many plants and herbs that 
are of a medical quality, and which they know 
how to use with great skill. 

From the time the resolution of engaging in war 
is taken, to the departure of the warriors, the nights 
are spent in festivity, and their days in making the 
needful preparations. 

If it is thought necessary by the nation going to 
war, to solicit the alliance of any neighbouring 
tribe, tliey fix upon one of tlieir chiefs who speaks 
the language of that people well, and who is a good 
orator, and send to them by him a belt of wampum, 
on which is specified the purport of tlie embassy in 
figures that every nation is well acquainted with. 
At the same time he carries with him a hatchet 
painted red. 

As soon as he reaches the camp or village to 
whicli he is destined, he acquaints the chief of the 
tribe with the general tenor of his commission, who 
immediately assembles a council, to which the am- 
bassador is invited. There having laid the hatchet 
on the ground, he holds the belt in his hand, and 
enters more minutely into tiie occasion of his em- 
bassy. In his speech he invites them to take up the 
hatchet, and as soon as he has finished speaking, 
delivers the belt. 

If his hearers are inclined to become auxiliaries 
io his nation, a chief steps forward and takes up tlic 
hatchet, and they immediately espouse, with spirit, 
the cause they have thus engaged to support. But 
• f, on this application^ neither the belt or hatchet 



74 NEW TRAVELS 

are accepted, the emissary concliules tliat the peo- 
pie whose assistance lie solicits, have already en- 
tered into an alliance with the foes of his nation, 
and returns with speed to inform his countrymen 
of his ill success. 

The manner in which the Indians declare war 
against each other, is by sending a slave with a 
hatchet, the handle of which is painted red, to the 
nation which they intend to break with ; and the 
messenger notwithstanding the danger to which he 
is exposed from the suddeji fury of those whom he 
thus sets at defiance, executes his commission with 
great fidelity. 

Sometimes this token of defiance has such an in- 
stantaneous effect on those to whom it is presented, 
that in the first transports of their fury a small 
party will issue forth, without waiting- for tlie per- 
mission of the elder chiefs, and slaying the first of 
the offending nation they meet, cut open the body 
and stick a hatchet of the same kind as that they 
just received, into the heart of their slaughtered 
foe. Among the more remote tribes this is done 
with an arrow or spear, the end of which is painted 
red. And the more to exasperate, they dismember 
the body, to show that they esteem them not as men, 
but as old women. 

The Indians seldom take the field in large bodies, 
as such numbers wonld require a greater degree of 
industry to provide for their subsistance, during 
their tedious marches through dreary forests or 
long voyages over lakes and rivers, than they would 
care to bestow. 

Tlieir armies are never encumbered with baggage 
or military stores. Each warrior, besides his 
weapons, carries with him only a mat, and whilst 
at a distance from the frontiers of the enemy sup- 
ports himself with the game he kills or the fish he 
catches. 

When they pass througli a country where they 
have no apprehensions of meeting with an enemy, 
they use very little precaution^ sometimes thei*e are 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 75 

scarcely a dozen warriors left toi^ethor,- the rest 
bei.io: in pursuit of tlieir j^ame ; but tliou-h they 
should have roved to a very considerable ilistanc'c 
from the wai'-path, they are sure to arrive at the 
place of rendezvous by the ho!ir appointed. 
, They always pitch their tents lon.;^ before sunset ; 
and being- naturally presumptuous,' take verv little 
<^are to .^uard a.^ainst a surprise. They place .^reat 
onfidence m their Manitous, or household ffods, 
which they always carry with them ; and bein;^ per- 
suaded that they take upon them the office of sentin- 
ols.they sleep very securely under their protection. 
1 hose :Manitous, as they are called by some na- 
tions but which are termed Wakons, that is spirits, by 
the Naudowessies, are notliin- more than the otter 
and martin skins I have already described ; for 
which, however, they have a .i^reat veneration. 

After they have entered the enemy^s country, no 
people can be more cautious and circumspect; fires 
are no longer lig-lited, no more shouting is lieard, 
nor t!ie game any longer pursued. They are not 
even permitted to speak -, b'lt must convey whatever 
they have to impart to eack other, by siirns and 
motions. ^ 

Tliey now proceed wholly by stratagem and am- 
buscade. Having discovered their enemies, they 
send to reconnoitre them ; and a council is imme- 
diately held, during wliifh thev speak only in whis- 
pers, to consider of the intelligence imparted by 
liiose who were sent out. 

The attack is generally made just before day- 
break, at which period they suppose their foes to be 
in tlie soundest sleep. Throughout the whole of 
the preceeding night they will lie flat upon their 
laces, without stirring ; and make their approaches 
m the same posture, creeping upon their hands 
and leet till they are got within bow-shot of 
tfiose they have destined to destruction. On a signal 
given by the chief warrior, to which the Whole 
11 ^f"!^''* answer by the most hideous yells, they 
au start up, and, discharging their arrows in the 
G 



76 iNEW TRAVELS 

same instant, without giving their adversaries tiinc 
to recover from the contusion into which tiiey aie 
tlirown, pour in upon them with their warclubs or 

^^Th^Indians think there is little glory to be ac- 
quired from attacking their enemies openly in the 
field ; their greatest pride is to surprise and destroy. 
They seldom engage without a manifest appear- 
ance of advantage. If they find the enemy on their 
c:uard, too strongly intrenched, or superior m num- 
hers, they retire, provided there is an oiyortunity 
of doine: so. And they esteem it tlie greatest quali- 
fication of a chief warrior, to be able to manage an 
attack, so as to destroy as many of the enemy as 
possibk^ at the expense of a few men. 

When the Indians succeed m tlieir silent ap- 
proaches, and are able to force tlic camp which they 
attack, a scene of liorror tliat exceeds description 
en«ues. The savage fierceness of the conquerors, 
and the desperation of the conquered, who we 
know what they have to expect should they fall 
alive into the hands of their assailants, occasiontbe 
most 'extraordinary exertions on both sides. The 
fiffure of the combatants all besmeared with black 
and red paint, and covered with the blood of tlie 
slain, their horrid yells and ungovernable tury, arc 
not to be conceived by those who have never seen 
them Though the Indians are negligent in guard- 
iM^^ surprise, they are^alert and dexterous 
in surprising their enemies. To their caution and 
perseverance in stealing on the party they design 
to attack, they add that admirable talent, or ratto- 
instinctive qualification I have already descTibed, 
of tracing out those they are in pursuit ot. Un the 
smoothest grass, on the hardest e^rth, and even on 
reverystoneswilltheydiscoverthetracesofanene- 
my , and by the shape of the footsteps,and the distance 
bc^ veen the prints, distinguish not only whe her it is 
a m^i or a woman who has passed that way, but even 
thTnationtowlnchtheybelong. However incredible 

this might appear, yet, from the many proofs I re- 



A^IONG THE Il^DIANS. 77 

ceivcd whilst among them of their amazing sagacity 
inthis point, I see no reason to discredit even these 
extraordinary exertions of it. 

When they have overcome an enemy, and victory 
is no longer doubtful, tlie conquerors first despatch 
all such as they think they shall not be able to carry 
off without great trouble, and then endeavour to 
take as many prisoners as possible ; after this taey 
return to scalp those who are either dead, or too 
much wounded to be taken with them. 

At this business they are exceedingly expert. 
They seize the head of the disabled or dead enemy, 
and, placing one of their feet on the neck, twist 
their left hand in the hair; by this means, having 
extended the skin, that covers the top of the head, 
they draw out their scalping knives, which are al- 
ways kept in good order for this cruel purpose, and 
witli a few dexterous strokes takes off the part that 
is termed the scalp. They are so expeditioiis^in doing 
this, that the whole time required, scarcely exceeds 
a minute. These tiizy p^cser^'e as mr,r.;:ir.cr.ts G. 
their prowess, and at the same time as proofs of the 
vengeance they have inflicted on their enemies. 

If two Indians seize in the same instant a prisoner, 
and seem to have an equal claim, the contest be- 
tween them is soon decided ; for to put a speedy 
end to any dispute that might arise, tlie person that 
is apprehensive he shail lose his expected reward, 
immediately has recourse to his tomahawk or war 
club, and knocks on the head the unhappy cause of 
their contention. 

Having completed theii* purposes, and made as 
much havoc as possible, they immediately retire 
towards their own country, with the spoil they have 
acquired, for fear of being pursued. 

Should this be tlie case, they make use of many 
stratagems to elude the searches of the pursuers. 
They sometimes scatter leaves, sand, or dust over 
the prints of their feet : sometimes tread in each 
other's footsteps : and sometimes lift their feet so 
high and tread so lightiy, as not to make any im- 



78 ISE^Y TRAVELB 

j^ressicn OK the ground* But if they fir.d all thcSU 
precautions uifav ailing;, and that tliey are near be- 
ing- overtaken, they iirst despatch and scalp their 
piisoKei's, and then dividing, each cndeavouifi to 
regain Ids native country by a diireient route. I'his 
prevents all further pursuit^ for their ])ursuers ^ 
liow despairin,!^, either of gratifying their revange, 
t>r of lelcasing those of their friends who were 
made captive, return home. 

If the successful party is so lucky as to make good 
their retreat unmolested, they hasten with the 
g-reatest expedition to reach a country wlierc they 
may be perfectly secure ; and tiuit their woundeil 
companions may net retard their flight, they cairy 
them by tuinsiii litters, or if it is in the winter sea- 
son, draw them on sledges. 

I'Le prisoners tUuing their march, are guarded 
with the greatest care. During the day, if the 
Journey is cvir land, they are always held by some 
of the victorious party ; if by water, they are fas- 
tened Ic the canoe. ' in the night time Ihcy are 
stretched along the ground quito naked, with their 
legs, ai*ms, and neck fastened to hooks fixed in the 
ground. Besides this, cords ai'C tied to their arms 
or legs, which are held by an Indian, w ho instantly 
awakes at the least motion of them. 

During their march they oblige their prisoners 
(0 sing their death song, which generally consists 
t»f. these or similar sentences ; **I am going to die, 
1 am about to suller; but I will bear the severest 
tortures my enemies can inflict, with becoming for- 
titude. I will die like a brave man ; and 1 shall 
I hen go to join the chiefs that have suffei'cd on the 
ame' account." These songs are continued with 
i.ecessary intervals, until they reach the village or 
vamp to which they are going. 

> hen the waniois are arrived within hearing, 
they set up diiferent cries,w hich connnunicatc totheir 
ij'iends a general histoiy of the success of tlie expe- 
t ition. The number of the dead-ci*ies tliey give, 
<:t dare how many of tlieirown party are lost; and 



AMONG THE INDIANS, rj 

the mimber of war hoops, the n#iiber oC prisoners 
they have taken. 

It is difhcultto describe these cries ; but the best 
idea I can convey of them is, that the former con- 
sists of the sound whoo, whoo, whoop, which is con- 
tinued in a loni;- shrill tone, nearly till the breath is 
exhausted, and then broken off with a sudden ele- 
vation of the voice. The latter, is a loud cry, of 
much the same kind, which is modulated into notes 
f by the hand being placed before the mouth. Both 
ot' them miglit be heard to a very considerable dis- 
tance. 

Whilst these are utteriii,^, the persons, to whom 
they are designed to convey the intelligence, con- 
tinue motionless and ail attention. Wheiitliis cere- 
mony is performed, the whole village issue out to 
learn the particulars of the relation they have just 
heaM in general terms ; and accordingly as the 
news proves mournful or tlie contraj'v, they answer 
by so many acclamations or cries of lauiv^ntion. 

Being by this time arrived at tiie village or camp, 
the women and cliildren arm themselves with sticks, 
and bludgeons, and form tiiemselvcs Int } twiy rank*, 
through wliich the prisoners are obliged to ])ass. 
Tlie treatment they undergo before tltey reach the 
extremity of the line, is very severe. Sometimes 
they are so beaten over the' head and face, as to 
have scarcely any remains of life; and happy 
would it be for them if by this usage an ejid was 
put to their wretched beings. But Ihdr tormen- 
tors take care that none of the blows they give 
prove mortal, as they msh to reserve the miserable 
sufferers for more severe inflictioris. 

After having undergone this introductory disci- 
pline, they are bound hand and foot, whilst the 
ehiels hold a council in which their fate is ^ter- 
mined. Those who are decreed to be put to t^ath, 
by the usual torments, are delivered to the chief of 
the warriors : such as are to be spared, are given 
into the hands of the chief of the nation ; so that m 
a short time all the prisoners mav be assured of 
G 2 



so ISEW TRiiYELS 

their*fate,^s tlieTiientence now pronounced is irrc- 
vocabk'. Ikv iofnicr they tei m beiiii^* consigned 
to the house of death, the latter to the hous'c ot 
irtace. ? 

Smili captives as are pretty far advanced in life, . 
and have acquired i^reat lionour by their warlike 
deeds, always atone for tlic blood tlic^ have spilt, 
by tlie tortures of lire. Their success in war is 
readily known by the blue nuirks upon their breasts 
and ai ins, which are legible to the Indians as letters 
are to Americans. 

The manner in which these hierog'lyi)hics are 
made, is by breaking' the skin with the teeth of fish, 
or sharpened Hints, dipped in a kind of ink made 
(t)f tiic soot of pitch pine. Like those of ancient 
Picts of Britain, these arc esteemed ornamental ; 
and at the same time they serA e as registers olti^a 
heroic actions of the warrior, who thus bears libolit 
liim indelible marks of his valour. 

The prisoners destined to death are soon led to 
the place of execution, whicii is g'cneraily in the cen- 
tre of the camp or village ; where, being stript, and 
every pai't of their bodies blackened, the skin of a 
crow or raven is fixed on their litads. They are 
then bound to a stake,. with faggots heaped around 
tiicm, and obliged, for the last tiuie, to sing their 
death song. 

The wari'iors, for such it is only Avho commonly 
sufl'er this punishment, now perform in a more pro- 
lix manner this sad solemnity. They recount with 
an audible voice all the brave actions they have per- 
fcrmed, and pride themselves in the number of ene- 
mies they have killed. In this rehearsal they spare 
not even their tormentors, but strive by e\ery pro- 
voking tale they can invent, to irritate and insult 
t!iem. Sometimes this lias the desired effect, and 
the liiilferers aie despatched sooner than thcyother- 
tvise would have been. 

Ttiere are many other methods which the Indians 
make use of to put their prisoners to death ; but 
these are only occasional 3 that of burning it niest 
gencriUIy used. 






K 

^ 
^ 







AMONG THE INDIANS. 81 

^riiis method of tormenting their enemies is con- 
sidered by the Indians as productive ol* more than 
one beneficial consequence. It satiates, in a greater 
degree, that diabolical lust of revenge, which is the 
predominant passion in the breast of every indivi- 
dual of every tribe ; and it gives the gro\\ ing war- 
riors an early propensity to that cruelty and thirst 
of blood, which is so necessary a qualification f(U* 
sucli as ^^ ould be thorou^ily skilled in their savage 
art of war. 

Notwithstanding these acts of severity exercised 
by the Indians towards those of their own species, 
who fall into their hands, some tribes of them have 
been very remarkable for their moderation to such 
female prisoners, belongingto the English colonies, 
as have happened to be taken by them. W omen of 
great beauty have frequently been carried off by 
tJiem, and during a marcli of three or four hundred 
miles, through their retired forests have lain by 
their sides without receiving any insnlt, and their 
ciiastity lias remained inviolate. Instances have 
hai)pened, where female captives, who have been 
pregnant at the time of their being taken, have 
found the pangs of child-birth come upon them in 
the midst of solitary ^voods, and savages their only 
companions ; yet from these savages as they were, 
have tliey reccn ed every assistance their situations 
would admit of, and been treated with a degree of 
delicacy and humanity they little expected. 

Those prisoners that are consigned to the house of 
grace, and tliese are commonly the young men, wo- 
iiien, and children, await the disposal of the chiefs, 
who after the execution of such as are condemned 
to die, hold^a council for this purpose. 

A herald is sent round the village or camp, to 
give notice that such as have lost any relative in 
the late expedition, are desired to attend the distri- 
bution, which is about to take place. Those wo- 
men who have lost their sons or husbands, are 
generally satisfied in the first place ; after these, 
such as'^have been deprived of friends of a more 



82 NEW TRAVELS 

rciiioic degree of consanguinity, or who choose to 
adopt some of the youth. 

The division being made, which is done, as in 
other cases, without the least dispute, those who 
have received any share, lead them to their tents 
ov^ huts ; and having unbound them, wash and 
dress their wounds, if they happen to have any ; 
they then clothe them, and give the most comforta- 
ble and refreshing food tlieir store will afford. 

Whilst their new domestics are feeding, they 
endeavour to administer consolation to theiH } they 
tell them that as they are redeemed from death, 
they must now be cheerful and happy ; and if they 
serve them well without murmuring or repining, 
nothing shall be v,'anting to make them such atone- 
ment ibr the loss of their country and friends, as 
ciicumstanccs will allow" of. 

If any men are spared, they are commonly given 
to the v/idows that Juive lost their husbands by the 
liraids of the enemy, should there be any such, to 
whom, if they happen to prove agreeable, they are 
soon married. But should the dame be otlierwise 
engaged, the life of him, who falls to her lot is in 
great danger; especially if she fancies that her 
late luisband wants a slave in the country of spirits, 
to wliich he is gone. 

When this is the case, a number of young men 
take the devoted captive to some distance, and dis- 
patch him without any ceremony: after he has 
been spared by the council, they consider him of 
too little consequence to be entitled to the torments 
of those who have been judged worthy of them. 

The women are usually distributed to the men, 
from whom they do not fail of meeting with a fa- 
vourable reception. The boys and girls are taken 
into tlie families of such as have need of them, and 
are considered as slaves ; and it is not uncommon 
that they are sold in the same capacity to the 
American traders who come among them. 

The Indians have no idea of moderating the 
ravages of war, by sparing their prisoners, and 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 83 

cntcrin.t^ into a iiegociation with the band from 
whom they have bei'u taken for an cxciiange. All 
that are captivated by both parties, are citlier put 
to death, adopted or made slaves of. And so par- 
ticular is every nation in tliis respect, that if any 
tribe, even a warrior, should be taken prisoner, 
and by chance be received into the house of grace, 
cither as an adopted person or a slave, and should 
afterwards make his escape, they will by no means 
iTceive him, or acknowledge him as one of their 
band. 

The condition of such as are adopted, differa 
not in any one instance from the children of the 
nation to which they belong. They assume all 
the rights of those whose jdaces they supply, and 
frequently make no difficulty in going in the war 
parties against their own countrymen. Should 
however, any of those by chance make their escape, 
and be afterwards retaken, they are esteemed as un- 
natural children, and ungrateful persons, who have 
deserted and made v.ai' itp'w'n their parents and bene- 
factors, and are treated with uncommon severity. 

That part of the prisoners which are considered 
as slaves, are g-enerally distributed among the 
chiefs ; who frequently make presents of some of 
them to the American governors of the out-posts 
or to the superintendants of Indian affairs. I 
have been informed that it was the Jesuits and 
Frencli missionaries that first occasioned the in- 
troduction of these unhappy captives into the set- 
(kments, and by so doing taught the Indians that 
they weixi valuable. 

Their vie^^s indeed were laudable, as they im- 
agined that by this method they should not only 
prevent niucli barbarity and bloodshed, but find the 
opportunities much inci-eased of spreading their re- 
ligion among them. To this purpose they have en- 
couraged the traders to purchase such slaves as they 
nict with. 

The good eftects of this mode of proceeding, 
where not however equal to tliQ expectations of 



84 NEW TRAVELS 

these pious fatliers. Instead of being the means 
of preventing cruelty and bloodshed, it only caus- 
ed dissentions between the Indian nations to be 
carried on with a greater degree of violence and 
with unremitted ardour. The prize they fought 
for being no longer revenge or fame, but the ac- 
quirement of spirituous liquors, for which their 
captive were to be exchanged, and of which almost 
every nation is immoderately fond, they sought 
for their enemies with unwonted alacrity, and w-ere 
constantly on the watch to surprise and carry them 
off. 

It might still be said that fewer of the captives 
are tormented and put to death, since these expec- 
tations of receiving so valuable a consideration for 
them have been excited than there usually had 
been ; but it does not appear that their accustomed 
cruelty to the warriors they take, is in the least 
abatecl: their natural desire of vengeance must 
be gratified ; they now only become more assidious 
in securing a greater number of yourig prisoners 
whilst those who are made captive in their defence 
are tormented and put to death as befoi»e. 

And this, even in despite of the disgraceful esti- 
mation 5 for the Indians consider every conquered 
people as in a state of vassalage to their conquerors. 
After one nation has finally subdued another, and 
a conditional submission is agreed on, it is custom- 
ary for the chiefs of the conquered, when they sit 
in council with their subduers, to wear petticoats 
as an acknowledgement that they are in a state of 
subjection and ought to be ranked among the wo- 
men. Their partiality of the French has however 
taken too deep root for time itself to eradicate it. 

The wars tliat are carried on between the Indian 
nations are in general hereditary, and continue 
from age to age with a few interruptions. If a 
peace becomes necessary, the principal care of both 
parties is to avoid the appearance of making the 
first advances. 

When tUey treat with an enemy relative to a sus- 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 85 

pension of hostilities, the chief who is commission- 
ed to inulvTtake the negociation, if it is not brought 
about oy the mediation of some neighbouring band, 
abates n thing of his natural haughtiness, even 
when the affairs of his country are in the worst 
situation, he makes no concessions, but endeavours 
to persuade his advessaries that it is their interest 
to put an end to the war. 

Accidents sometimes contribute to bring about a 
peace between nations that otherwise could not be 
prevailed on to listen to terms of accommodation. 

Sometimes the Indians grow tired of a war, which 
they have carried on against some neighbouring na- 
tion for many years without much success, and in 
this case they seek for mediators to begin a negotia- 
tion. These being obtained, the treaty is thus con- 
ducted : 

A number of their own cliicfs, joined by those 
who have accepted the friendly office, set out toge- 
ther for the enemies' country ; such as are chosen 
for this purpose, are chiefs of the most extensive 
abilities, and of the greatest integrity. They bear 
before them the Pipe of peace, which I need not in- 
form my readers is of tiie same nature as a flag of 
truce among the Americans, and is treated with the 
greatest respect and veneration, even by the most 
barbarous nations. I never heard of an instance 
wherein the bearers of this sacred badge of friend- 
ship were ever treated disrespectfully, or its rights 
violated. The Indians believe that tlie Great Spirit 
never suffers an infraction of this kind to go un- 
punislicd. 

The Pipe of peace, whicli is termed by them the 
Calmet, for what reason I could never learn, is 
aboi<t four feet long. Tlie bowl of it is made of red 
marble, and the stem of it of a liglit wood, curiously 
painted with hieroglyphics in various colour, and 
adorned with feathers, of the most beautiful birds ; 
but it is not in my power to convey an idea of the 
various tints and pleasing ornaments of this much 
esteemed Indian impliment. 



86 NEW TRAVELS 

Every nation has a diflfercnt method of decora- 
ting these pipes ; and they can tell at first siglit t » 
what band it belongs. It is used as an introduction 
to ail treaties, and great ceremony attends the use 
of it on these occasions. 

The assistant or aid-de-camp of the great war- 
rior, wlien the cliiefs are assembled and seated, fills 
it with tobacco mixed with herbs, taking care at tUe 
same time that no part of it touches the ground. 
When it is filled, he takes a coal that is thoroughly 
kindled, from a fire wliich is generally kept burn- 
ing in the midst of the assembly, and places it on 
the tobacco. 

As soon as it is sufticiently lighted, he throws off 
the coal. He then turns the stem of it towards the 
heavens, after this towards the earth, and now hold- 
ing it horizontally, moves himself round till he has 
completed a circle ; by the first action he is sup- 
posed to present it to the Great Spirit, whose aid 
is thereby supplicated ; by the second to avert any 
malicious interposition of the evil spirits : and hy the 
third to gain the protection of the spirits inhabiting 
the air, the earth, and the waters. Having thus 
secured the favour of these invisible agents, in 
whose power tliey suppose it is either to forward or 
obstruct the issue of their present deliberations, he 
presents it to the hereditary chief, who having ta- 
ken two or three whiffs, blows the smoke from his 
mouth, first towards heaven, and tlien around him 
upon the ground. 

It is afterwards put in the same manner into tlie 
mouths of the ambassadors or strangers, wlio ob- 
serve the same cei*emony, then to tlie chief of the 
warriors, and to all the other cliiefs in turn, accord- 
ing to their gradation. During this time the. per- 
son who executes this honourable oflice holds the 
pipe slightly in his hand, as if he feared to press 
the sacred instrument; nor does any one presume 
to touch it but with his lips. 

When the chiefs who are instructed with the com- 
mission for making peace, approach the town or 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 87 

camp to which they are i^oing, they begin to stn^ 
and dance the songs and dances appropriated to 
this occasion. By this time the adverse party arc 
apprised of their arnval, and, at the sight of tlie. 
Pipe of peace divesting themselves of their wonted 
enmity, invite them to the habitation of the Great 
Chief, and furnish them with every conveniency 
during the negotiation. 

A council is then held ; and when the speeches 
and debates are ended, if no obstructions arise to 
put a stop to tlie treaty, the painted hatchet is buried 
in the ground, as a memorial that a!l animosities 
between the contending nations have ceased, and a 
peace taken place. Among the ruder bands, such 
as have no communication with the Americans, a 
war-club, painted red is buried, instead of the 
hatchet. 

A belt of wampum is also given on this occasion, 
which serves as a ratification of the peace, and re- 
cords to the latest posterity, by the hieroglyphics 
into which the beacls are formed, every stipulated 
article in tlic treaty. 

These belts are made of shells found on the coasts 
of New England and Virginia, whieli are sawed 
out into beads of an oblong form, about a quarter 
of an inch long, and round like other beads. Be- 
ijig strung en leather strings, and sevei'al of them 
sewed neatly together with fine sinewy tfireads, 
they then compose what is termed a belt of wam- 
pum. 

Tlic shells are generally of two colours, some 
white and others violet; but the latter are more 
Idgldy esteemed than the former. 

They are held in as much estimation Jl)y the* In- 
dians, as gold, silver, or precious stones are by the 
Americans. 

The belts are composed of ten, twelve, or a greater 
number of strings, according to the importance of 
the affnir in agitation, or the dignity of the person 
to whom it is presented. On more trilling occasions, 
strings of these bca^i^ are presented by the ciiiets to 
H 



88 NEW TRAVELS. 

each other, and frequently worn by them about their 
necks as a valuable ornament. 

I'he Indians allow of polygamy; and persons of 
every rank indulge themselves in this point. The 
chiefs in particular have a seraglio, wliich consists 
of an uncertain number, usually from six to twelve 
or fourteen. The lower rank are permitted to take 
as many as there is a probability of their being 
able, with the children they may bear, to maintain. 
It is not uncommon for an Indian to marry two sis- 
ters ; sometimes, if there happen to be more, the 
whole number ; and notw ithstanding this (as it ap- 
pears to civilized nations) unnatural union, they all 
live in the greatest harmony. 

The younger wives are submissive to the elder ; 
and those who have no children, do such menial 
olHces for those who are fertile, as causes their situ- 
ation to differ but little from a state of servitude, 
llowevei*, they perform every injunction with the 
greatest cheerfulness, in hopes of gaining thereby 
the affections of their husbands, that they in their 
turn may have the happiness of becoming mothers, 
and be entitled to the respect attendant on that 
state. 

It is not uncommon for an Indian, althougli he 
takes to himself so many wives, to live in a state of 
continence with many of them for several years. 
Sucli as are not so fortunate asio gain the favour of 
their husband, by their submissive and prudent be- 
haviour, and by that means to share in his embraces, 
continue in their virgin state during the whole of 
their lives, except they happen to he presented by 
him to some stranger chief, whose abode among 
them will Qot admit of his entering into a more last- 
ing connexion. In this case they submit to the in- 
junction of tlieir husband without murmuring, and 
are not displeased at the temporary union. But if 
at any time it is known that they take this liberty 
without first receiving his consent, they are punish- 
ed in the same manner as if they had been guilty of 
adultery. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 89 

This custom is more prevalent among tlie na- 
tions, whicli lie in the interior parts, than among 
those that are nearer the settlements, as the man- 
ners of the latter are rendered more conformablcj 
in some points to those of the Americans, by tlic 
intercourse they hold with them. 

The Indian nations differ but little from each other 
in their ma^rria^e ceremonies, and less intlie man= 
ners of their divorces. The ti'ibes that inhabit the 
borders of Canada, make use of the following cus- 
tom. 

W hen a young Indian has fixed his inclinations 
on one of the other sex, he endeavours to gain her 
consent ; and if he succeeds, it is never known that 
her parents ever obstruct their union. M hen every 
preliminary is agreed on, and the day ajipointed, 
the friends and acquaintances of both parties assem- 
ble at the house or tent of the oldest relation of tlie 
bridegroom, where a feast is prepared on the occa- 
sion. 

The company who meet to assist at the festival 
are sometimes very numerous : they dance, they 
sing, and enter into every other diversion usually 
made use of on many of their public rejoicings. 

When these are finished, all those who attended 
merely out of ceremony, depart, and the bride- 
groom, and bride are left alone with three or four 
of the nearest and oldest relations of either side ; 
those of the bridegroom being men, and those of 
the bride women. 

Presently the bride attended by these few friend, 
having withdrawn herself tor the purpose, appears 
at one of the doors of the house, and is led to the 
bridegroom, who stands ready to receive her. Hav- 
ing now taken their station, on a mat placed in the 
centre of the room, they lay hold of the extremities 
of a wand, about four feet long, by which they con- 
tinue separated, whilst the old men pronounce som 3 
short harangues suitable to the occasion. 

The married couple then make a public declara- 
tion of the love and regard they entertain for eaja 



90 NEW TRAVELS 

other, and holding the rod between them, danee and 
sin«'. AVhcn they have finished this part cf the ce- 
ipemony, they break the rod into as many pieces as 
there are w itnessts present, >v]io eacli take a piece 
and preserve it w itli care. 

1 he bride is then reconducted out of the door at 
which she entered, where her young companions 
wait to attend her to her father's house ; there the 
bridegroom is obliged to seek her, and the marriage 
s eonsunimated. Ver^y often the wife remains at 
.xer father's house till she has a child, when she 
packs I!]) her apparel, v» Idch is all the fortune she is 
generally possessed of, and accompanies her has- 
];andto his liabitation. 

"When from any dislike a separation takes place, 
for they are seldom known to quarrel, tliey gene- 
rally give tlK ir friends a few days notice of their 
intentions, and sometimes offer reasons to justify 
their conduct. Tlie witnesses, v, ho were present at 
the marriage, meet on tlie day requested, at the 
house of the couple that are about to separate, and 
bringing with them the pieces of rod which they 
had received at their nuptials, throw them into the 
fire in the presence of all the parties. 

I'his is the whole of the ceremony required, and 
the separation is carried on without any niurmur- 
ings, or ill will between the couple or the relations; 
and after a few months they are at liberty to marry 
*:gain. 

When a marriage is thus dissolved, the children 
wldch have been produced from it, are equally divi- 
ded between them ; and as cliildien are esteemed a 
treasure by the Indians, if the number happens to 
be odd, the woman is allowed to take better half. 

Though this custom seems to encourage fickleness 
end frequent separations, yet there are many of the 
Indians, who have but one wife, and enjoy with her 
a state of connubial happiness, not to be exceeded iii 
more i-efined societies. There arc also, not a few 
instances of women preserving an inviolable attach ~ 
ments to tlieir husbands, except in the cases before 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 9i 

mentioned, wliich are not considered as cither a 
violation of their chastity or fidelity. 

Altliough I have said that the Indian nations dif- 
fer very little from each other in their marriage 
ceremonies, there are some exceptions. The Nau- 
dowessies have a singular method of celebrating 
their marriages, which seems to bear no resem- 
blance to those made use of by any other nation I 
passed through. >yhen one of their young men 
has fixed on a young woman he approves of, he dis- 
covers liis passion to her parents, who give him an 
invitation to come and live with them in their tvnt. 

He accordingly accepts the offer, and by so doing 
engages to reside in it for a whole year, in the cha- 
racter of a menial servant. During this time he 
hunts, and brings all the game he kills to the family : 
by which means the father has an opportunity of 
seeing whether he is able to provide for the support 
of his daughter and the children that might be the 
consequence of their union. This however is only 
done whilst they are young men and for their 
first wife, and not repeated like Jacob's servitude. 

When this period is expired, the marriage is so- 
lemnized after the custom of the country, in the 
following manner : three or four of the oldest male 
relations of the bridegroom, and as many of the 
bride's, accompany the young couple from their re- 
spective tents, to an open part in the centre of the 
camp. 

. The chiefs and warriors, being here assembled to 
receive them, a party of the latter are drawn up in 
two ranks on each side of the bride and bridegroom 
immediately on their arrival. Their principal 
chief then acquaints the whole assembly with the 
design of their meeting, and tells them tliat the cou- 
ple before them, mentioning at the same time their 
names, are come to avow publicly their intentions 
of living together as man and wife. He then asks 
the two young people alternately, whether they de- 
sire tlkat the union might take place. Having de- 
clared with an audible voice that they do so, the 
H 2 



93 ISEW TRAVELS 

warriors fix their arrows, and discharge theui 
over the heads of the married pair : this done, 
the chief pronounces them man and wife. 

The bridegroom then turns round, and bending 
liis body, takes his wife on his back, in which 
manner he carries her amidst the acclamations of 
the spectators to his tent. Tiie ceremony is suc- 
ceeded by the most plentiful feast the new married 
man can afford : and songs and dances, according 
to the usual custom conclude the festival. 

Among the Indians, as well as European na- 
tions, there are many that devote themselves to 
pleasure, and notwithstanding tlie accounts given 
by some modern writers of the frigidity of an In- 
dian's constitution, become the zealous votaries 
if Venus. The young warriors that are thus dis- 
posed, seldom want opportunities for gratifying 
their passion : and as the mode usually followed 
>n these occasions is rather singular, I shall de- 
cribe it. 

*• Wlien one of these young debauchees ima- 

irines, from the behaviour of the person he has 

hosen for his mistress, that lie shall not meet with 

any great obstruction to his suit from her, he 

pursues the following plan. 

" It has been already observed that the Indians 
acknowledge no superiority; nor have they any 
ideas of subordination, except in the necessary 
regulations of their war or hunting parties; they 
;;onsequently live nearly in a state of equality, 
pursuant to the first principles of nature. The 
lover therefore is not apprehensive of any check or 
control in the accomplishment of his ])urposes, 
if he can find a convenient opportunity for com- 
])leting them. 

** As the Indians are also under no apprehen- 
sion of robbers, or secret ennemies, they leave 
1 hi' doors of their tents cr huts unfastened during 
tlie night, as well as in tlie day. Two or three 
houi^ after sunset, the old jieople cover over the 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 9S 

fire, that is generally burning in the midst of their 
apartment, wit'i ashes, and retire to their repose. 

** Whilst darkness thus prevails, and all is quiet, 
one of these sons of pleasure, wrapped up closely 
in his blanket, to prevent his being known, will 
sometimes enter the apartment of his intended mis- 
tiness. Having first lighted at the smothered fire 
a small splinter of wood, which answers the pur- 
pose of a match, he approaches the place where 
she reposes, and gently pulling away the covering 
from the head, jogs her till she awakes. If she 
then rises up, and blows out the light, he needs 
no further confirmation that his company is not 
disagreeable ; but if after he lias discovered him- 
self she hides her head, and takes no notice of him, 
he miglit rest assured that any further solicitations 
will prove vain, and that it is necessary imme- 
diately for him to retire. During his stay he 
conceals the light as much as possible in the hollow 
of his hands ; and as the tents or I'ooms of the 
Indians are usually large and capacious, he es- 
capes without detection. It is said that the young 
women who admit their lovers on these occasions, 
take great care, by an immediate application to 
Iierbs, with the potent eflicacy of wliich they are 
well acquainted, to prevent the effects of these illi- 
cit amours from becoming visible ; for shoukl tlie 
natural consequences ensue, they must forever re- 
main unmarried." 

The children of the Indians are ahvays distin- 
guished by the name of the mother ; and if a 
woman marries several husbands, and has issue 
by each of them, they are called after her. The 
reason they give for this is, that as their offspring 
are indebted to the father for their souls, the in- 
visible part of their essence, and to the mother for 
their corporeal and apparent part, it is more ra- 
tional that they should be distinguished by the 
name of the latter, from whom they indubitably 
derive their being, than by that of the father^ 



9^ NEW TRAVELS 

to which a doubt might sometimes arise whether 
they are justly entitled. 

There are some cei'emonies made use of by the 
Indians at the opposition of the name» and it is 
considered by them as a matter of great impor- 
tance but what these are I could never learn, 
through the secrecy observed on the occasion. I 
oiily know that it s ust a y given when the children 
have passed the state of infancy. 

Nothing can exceed the tenderness shown by 
them to their ofspring ; and a person cannot re- 
commend himself to their favour by any method 
more certain, than by paying some attention to the 
younger branches of their families. 

There is some difficulty attends an explanation 
of the manner in which the Indians distinguish 
themselves from each other. Besides the name of 
the animal by which every nation and tribe is de- 
nominated, there are others that are personal,^ and 
which the children receive from their mother. 

The chiefs are also distinguished by a name 
that has either some reference to their abilities, or 
to the hieroglyphic of their families; and these 
are acquired after they arrive at the age of man- 
hood. Such as have signalized themselves either 
in their war or hunting parties, or are possessed 
of some eminent qualifications receive a name that 
serves to perpetuate tlie fame of these actions, or to 
make their abilities conspicuous. 

It is certain the Indians acknowledge one Su- 
preme Being, or Giver of Life, who presides over 
all things. That is, the Great Spirit ; and they 
look up to him as the source of good, from whom 
no evil can proceed, They also believe in a bad 
spirit, to whom they ascribe great power, and 
suppose that tlirough his means all the evils which 
befal mankind are inflicted. To him therefore do 
they pray in their distresses, begging that he would 
eitlier avert their troubles, or moderate them when 
they are no longer avoidable. 

They say that the Great Spirit, who is infinitely 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 95 

gX)od, neither wishes nor is able to do any mischief 
to mankind 5 but on the contrary, that lie showers 
down on them all the blessings they deserve; 
wliereas the evil spirit is continually employed in 
contriving how he may punish the human race ; 
and to do which he is not only possessed of the 
will, but of the power. 

They hold also that there are good spirits of a 
lesser degree, wlio have their particular depart- 
ments, in which tliey are constantly contributing 
to the happiness of mortals. These they suppose 
to preside over all the extraordinary productions 
of nature, such as those lakes, riyer», or moun- 
tains that are of an uncommon magnitude ; and 
likewise the beasts, birds, fishes, and even vegeta- 
bles, or stones that exceed the rest of their species 
in size or singularity. To all of these they pay 
some kind of adoration. 

But at the same time I fancy that the ideas they 
annex to the word spirit, are very different from 
the conceptions more enlightened nations enter- 
tain of it. They appear to fashion to themselves 
corporeal representations of their gods, and be- 
lieve them to be of a human form, though of a 
nature more excellent than man. 

Of VaQ same kind are their sentiments relative 
to a futurity. They doubt not but they shall exist 
in some future state; they however fancy that 
their employments there will be somewhat similar 
to those they are engaged in here, without the la- 
bour and difficulties annexed to them in this period 
of their existence. 

They consequently expect to be translated to a 
delightful country, where they shall always have a 
clear, unclouded sky, and enjoy a perpetual spring ; 
where the forests w ill abound with game, and the 
lakes with fish, which might be taken without a 
painful exertion of skill, or a laborious pursuit ; 
in short that they shall live forever in regions of 
plenty, and enjoy every gratification they delight 
in here, in a greater degree/ 



96 NEW TRAVELS 

To intellectual pleasures they ai'e stranger ; nor 
are these included in tlieir scheme of happiness. 
But they expect that even these animal pleasures 
will he proportioned and distrihuted according to 
their merit; the skillful hunter, the bold and suc- 
cessful warrior, will be entitled to a greater share 
than those who through indolence or want of skill 
cannot boast of any superiority over the common 
herd. 

The Priests of the Indians are at the same time 
their physicians, and their conjurers ; whilst they 
heal their wounds, or cure their diseases, they 
interpret their dreams, give them protective 
charms, and satisfy that desire which is so preva- 
lent among them of searching into futurity. 

How well they execute the latter part of their 
professional engagements, and the methods they 
make use of on some of these occasions, I have 
already shewn in the exertions of the priest of the 
Killistinoes, who was fortunate enough to succeed 
in his extraordinary attempt near Lake Superior. 
They frequently are successful, likewise in admin- 
istering the salubrious herbs they have acquired 
a knowledge of; but that the ceremonies they 
make use of during the administration of them 
contributes to their success, I shall not take upon 
me to assert. 

When any of the people are ill, the person who 
is invested with this triple character of doctor, 
priest and magician, sits by the patient day and 
night, rattling in his ears a goad shell filled with 
di'y beans, called a Chichicoue, and making a dis- 
agreeable noise that cannot be well described. 

This uncouth harmony one would imagine should 
disturb the sick person and prevent tlie good 
effects of the doctor's prescription ; but on the 
contrary they believe that the method made use 
of, contributes to his recovery, by diverting from 
his malignant purposes the evil spirit who has 
inflicted the disorder; or at least that it will take 
off his attention, so that he shall not increase the 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 97 

malady. This they are credulous enough to ima- 
gine he is constanly on tlie watch to do, and 
would carry his invetaracy to a fatal length if 
they did not thus charm him. 

I could not discover that they make use of any 
other religious ceremonies than those I have de- 
scribed ; indeed on the appearance of the new 
moon they dance and sing ; but it is not evident 
that they pay that planet any adoration^ they only 
seem to rejoice at the return of a luminary that 
makes the night cheerful, and which serves to 
light them on their wayw^hen they travel during 
the absence of the suu. 

Notwithstanding Mr. Adair has asserted that 
the nations am»>ng whom he resided, observe with 
very little variation all the rites appointed by the 
Mosaic Law, I own I could never discover among 
the tribes that lie but a few degrees to the north 
west, the least traces of the Jewish religion, ex- 
cept it be admitted that one particular female 
custom, and their divisions into tribes carry with 
them proof sufficient to establish this assertion. 

The Jesuits and French Missionaries have also 
pretended, that the Indians had, when they first 
travelled into America, some notions, though 
these were dark and confused, of the Christian 
institution ; that they have been greatly agitated 
at the sight of a cross, and given proofs by the 
impressions made on them that they were not en- 
tirely unacquainted with the sacred mysteries of 
Christianity. I need not say that these are too 
glaring absurdities to be credited, and could only 
receive their existence from the zeal of those fa- 
tliers, who endeavoured at once to give tlie public 
a better opinion of the success of their missions, 
aiul support to tlie cause they were engaged in. 

The Indians appear to be in their religious prin- 
ciples, rude and uninstructed. The doctrines they 
hold are few and simple, and such as have been 
generally impressed on the human mind, by some 
means or other, in the most ignorant ages. They 



98 NEW TRAVELS 

however have not deviated, as many other uncivil- 
ized nations; and too many civilized ones have 
done, into idolatrous modes of worship; they- ven- 
erate indeed and make offerina;s to the wonderful 
parts of the creation, as I have hefore observed ; 
but whether these rights are performed on account 
of the impressions sueh extraordinary appearances 
make on them, or whether they consider them as 
the peculiar charge, or the usual place of residence 
of the invisible spirits they acknowledge, I cannot 
possitivcly determine. 

The human mind in its uncultivated state is apt 
to ascribe the extraordinary occurrences of nature, 
such as eartliquakesj thunder, or hurricanes, to 
the interposition of unseen beings; .the troubles 
and disasters also that are annexed to a savage 
life, the apprehensions attendant on the precarious 
subsistence, and those numberless inconveniences 
which man in his improved state has found means 
to remedy, are supposed to proceed from the inter- 
position of evil spirits ; the savage, consequently, 
lives in continual apprehensions of tlieir unkind 
attacks, and to avert them has recourse to charms, 
to tlie fantastic ceremonies of his priest, or the 
powerful influence of his Manifcous. Fear has of 
course a greater share in his devotions than grati- 
tude, and he pays moi^e attention to deprecating 
the wi'ath of the evil, than to securing the favour 
of the good beings. 

The Indians, however, entertain these absur- 
dities in common with those of every part of the 
globe who have not been illuminated with that reli- 
gion, which can only disperse the clouds of super- 
stition and ignorance, and th^y are as free from 
error as people can be, that have not been favoured 
with its instructive doctrines. 

In Tenobscot, a settlement in the province of 
Maine, in the north east parts of New England, 
the wife of a soldier was taken in labour, and not- 
withstanding every necessary assistance was given 
her, could not be delivered In this situation she 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 99 

i^maiiied for two or three days, the persons around 
her expecting that the next pang would put an 
end to her existence. 

An Indian woman, who accidentally passed by, 
heard the groans of the unhappy suiferer, and en- 
quired from whence they proceeiled. Being made 
acquainted with the desperate circumstance attend- 
ing the case, she told the informant that if she 
might be permitted to see the person, she did not 
doubt but that she should be of great service to 
her. 

The surgeon that had attended, and the mid- 
wife who was then present, having given up every 
hope of preserving their patient, the Indian wo- 
man was pJloiwed to make use of any methods she 
thought proper. She accordingly took a handker- 
cJiief, and bound it tight over the nose and mouth 
of tlie woman 5 this immediately brought on a suf- 
focation ; and from the struggles that consequently 
ensued she was in a few" seconds delivered. The 
moment this was atchieved, and time enough to pre- 
vent any fatal effect, tlie handkerchief was taken 
off. «The long suffering patient thus happily re- 
lieved from her pains, soon after perfectly recov- 
ered, to the astonishment of those who had been 
witnesses to her desperate situation. 

The reason given by the Indian for tliis hazar- 
dous method of proceeding, was, that desperate 
disorders require desperate remedies ; tliat as she 
observed the exertions of nature were not suf- 
ficiently forcible to effect the desired consequence, 
she theught it necessary to augment their force, 
which could only be done by some mode that was 
violent in the extreme. 

An Indian meets death when it approaches liim in 
his hut with the same resolution he has often faced 
him in the field. His indifference relative to this 
important article which is the source of so many 
apprehensions to almost every other nation is truly 
admirable. When his fate is pronounced by the 
physician and it remains no longer uncertain, he 



iOO NEW TRAVELS 

harangues those about him with the greatest com- 
posure. 

If he be a chief and has a family, he makes a 
hind of funeral oration, which he concludes by 
giving to his children such advice for the regula- 
tion of their conduct as he thinks necessary. He 
tlien takes leave of his friends, and issues out or- 
ders for the preparation of a feast, which is de- 
signed to regale those of his tribe that can come to 
pronounce his eulogium. 

The character of the Indians, like that of other 
uncivilized nations, is composed of a mixture of 
ferocity and gentleness. They arc at once guided 
by passions and appetites, which they hold in com- 
mon with the fiercest beast that inhabit the woods, 
and are possessed of virtues which do honour to 
human nature. 

In the following estimate I shall endeavour to 
forget, on the one hand, the prejudices of the 
Americans, wlio usually a,nnex to the word Indian, 
epithets that are disgraceful to human nature, and 
wlio view them in no other light tlian as savages 
and canijibals, whilst with equal care I avoi(l my 
partiality* towards them, as some must naturally 
arise from the favourable reception I met with 
during my stay among them. 

That the Indians are of a cruel revengeful, inex- 
X)rfd)le disposition, tJiat they will watch whole days 
unmindful of the calls of nature, and make their 
way through pathless, and almost unbounded 
woods, subsisting only on the scanty produce of 
them, to pursue and avenge themselves of an en- 
emy ; that they hear unmoved the piercing cries of ,^ 
such as unhappily fall into their liands, and receive 
a diabolical pleasure from the tortures they inflict 
on tlieir prisoners, I readily grant ; but let us look 
on the reverse of this terrifying pictui-e, and we 
shall find them temperate both in their diet and po- 
tations, (it must be remembered that I speak of those 
tribes who have little or no communication with 
Americansj that they withstand, with unexampled 



AMONG THE INDIANS. iai 

patience, the attacks of hunger, or the inclemency 
of the seasons, and esteem the gratification of their 
appetites but as a secondary consideration. 

We shall likewise see them social and humane to 
those whom they consider as their friends, and 
even to their adopted enemies ; and ready to par- 
take with them of the last morsel, or to risk their 
lives in their defence. 

In contradiction to the report of many other 
travellers, all of which have been tinctured with 
prejudice, I can assert, that notwithstanding the 
apparent indifference with which an Indian meets 
his wife and children after a long absence, an 
indifference proceeding rather from custom than 
insensibility, he is not unmindful of the claims 
either of connubial or parental tenderness. 

Accustomed from their youth to innumerable 
hardships, they soon become superior to a sense 
of danger, or the dread of death ; and their for- 
titude, implanted by nature, and nurtuj*ed by ex- 
ample, by precept and accident, never experience 
a iftoment's allay. 

Though slothful and inactive whilst their stores 
of provision remain unexausted, and their foes are 
at a distance, they are indefatigable and persevering 
in pursuit of their game or in circumventing tlieir 
enemies. 

If they are artful and designing, and ready to 
take every advantage, if they are cool and delibe- 
rate in their councils, and cautious in the extreme, 
either of discovering their sentiments, or of re- 
vealing a secret, they might at the same time boast 
of possessing qualifications of a more animated na- 
ture, of the sagacity of a hound, the penetrating 
sight of a lynx, the cunning of a fox, the agil- 
ity of a bounding roe, and the unconquerable 
fierceness of the tiger. 

In their public characters, as forming part of a 
community, they possess an attachment for that 
band to which they belong, unknown to the inhabi- 
tants of any other cowntry. They combine, as if 



102 NEW TRAVELS 

they were actuated only by one soul, against the 
enemies of their nation, and banish from their 
minds every consideration opposed to this. 

They consult without unnecessary opposition, or 
without giving way to the excitements of envy or 
ambition, on tlie measures necessary to be pursued 
for the desti'uction of those wlio have drawn on 
themselves their displeasure. No selfish views 
ever influence their advice, or obstruct their con- 
sultations. Nor is it in the power of bribes or 
threats to diminish the love they bear their coun- 
try. 

The honour of their tribe, and the wellfare of 
their nation, is the first and most predominant 
emotion of their hearts ; and from hence proceed 
in a great measure all their virtues and their vices. 
Actuated by this, they brave every danger, endure 
the most exquisite torments, and expire triumphing 
in their fortitude, not as a personal qualification, 
but as a national characteristic. 

From thence also flows that insatiable revenge to- 
wards those with whom they are at war, and alHhe 
consequent horrors that disgrace their name. Their 
uncultivated mind being incapable of judging of the 
propriety of an action, in opposition to their pas- 
sions, which are totally insensible of the controuls 
of reason and humanity, they know not how to 
keep their fury within any bounds, and conse- 
quently that courage and resolution, which would 
otherwise do them honour, degenerates into a sa- 
vage ferocity. 

But this short disertation must suffice : tlie li- 
mits of my work will not permit me to treat the 
subject more copiously, or to pursue it with a logi- 
cal regularity. The observations already made by 
my readers on preceeding pages, will, I trust ren- 
der it unnecessary ; as by them they will be enabled 
to form a tolerable just idea of the people I have 
been describing. Experience teaches that anec- 
dotes, and relations of particular events, howevey 
trifling they might appear, enable us to form a 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 103 

truer judgment of the manners and customs of a 
people, and are much more declaratory of their 
real state, than the most studied and elaborate dis* 
quisitions, without these aids. 



The two subjoined delineations, of two Tribes of In- 
dians who inhabit the country on this side the Rocky 
mountains, is a summarij^from the pen ofMacken- 
%ie. 

The Knistenaux are of a moderate stature, 
well proportioned, and of great activity. Exam- 
ples of deformity are seldom to be seen among 
them. Their complexion is of a copper colour and 
tJieir hair black, which is common to all the natives 
of North America. It is cut in various forms ac- 
cording to the fancy of the several tribes, and by 
some is left in the long, lank flow of nature. Tiieir 
eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; their coun- 
tenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal 
object of their vanity to give every possible deco- 
ration to theii' persons. A material article in their 
toilets is Vermillion, which they contrast with their 
native blue, white, and brown earths, to which 
charcoal is frequently added. 

Their dress is at once simple and commodious. 
It consists of tight leggins, reaching near the hip ; 
a strip of cloth or leather, called assian, about a 
foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drav/n 
inwards, and hang behind and before, over a belt 
tied round the waist for that purpose ; a close vest 
or shirting reaching down the former garment and 
tinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened 
with thongs behind : and a cap for the head, con- 
sisting of a piece of fur, or small skin, with the 
brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a 
kind of robe is thrown occasionally over the whole 
of the dress, and serves both night and day. These 
articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, con- 
stitute the variety of theii* apparel. The m-ateiials 
I 2 



104 NEW TRAVELS 

vary according to the season, and consists of dres- 
sed moose-skin, beaver prepared with the fur, or 
European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, 
and fancifully worked in some parts with porcu- 
pine-quills, and moose-deer hair ; the shirts and 
Icj^gins are also adorned with fringe and tassels ; 
nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat 
of appropriate decoration, and worked with a con- 
siderable degree of skill and taste. These habili- 
ments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience 
suggests ; and they will sometimes proceed to the 
ehase in the severest frost, covered only with the 
slightest of them. Their head-dresses are compo- 
sed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, and 
other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of dif- 
ferent animals, are also the occasional ornaments 
of the head and neck. Their hair, however ar- 
ranged, is always besmeared with grease. The 
making of every article of dress is a female occu- 
pation ; and the women, though by no means inat- 
tentive to the decoration of their own persons, ap- 
pear to have a still greater degree of pride in at- 
tending to the appearances of the men, whose faces 
arc painted with more care than those of the women. 
The female dress is formed of the same materials 
as those of the other sex, but of a different make 
and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly 
plain, and tlieir leggins gai'tered beneath the knees. 
TIic coat or body covering falls down to the middle 
of the leg, and is fastened over the shoiddei's with 
cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight 
inches, both before and behind, and agreeably or- 
namented with quill-work and fringe; the bottom 
is also fringed and fancifully painted as high as 
the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round 
the waist with a stiff belt, decorated with tassels, 
and fastened behind. The arms are covered to the 
wrist with detatched sleeves, which are sewed as 
far as the bend of the arm ; from thence they are 
drawn up to the neck, and the corners of them 
fall down behind as low as the waist The cap, 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 105 

when they wear one, consists of a certain quantity 
of leather or cloth, sewed at one end, by which 
means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down 
the back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under 
the chin. The upper garment is a robe like that 
worn by the men. Their hair is divided on the 
crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in 
large knots over the ears. They are fond of Eu- 
pean articles, and prefer them to their own native 
commodities. Their ornaments consist, in common 
with all other savages, in bracelets, ring, and 
similar baubles. Some of the women tattoo tliree 
perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double ; 
one from the centre of the chin to that of the under 
lip, and one parallel on either side to the corner 
of the mouth. 

Of all the nations which I have seen on this 
continent, the Knisteneaux women ai^ the most 
comely. Their figure is generally well pro])or" 
tioned, and the regularity of their features would 
be acknowleged by the more civilized people of 
Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark 
tinge which is common to those savages who have 
less cleanly habits. 

These people, are, in general, sobject to few 
disorders. The lues venerea, however, is a com- 
mon complaint, but cured by the application of 
simples, with whose virtues they appear to be 
well acquainted ; they are also subject to fluxes', 
and pains in the breast, which some have attributed 
to the very cold and keen air which they inhale ; 
but I should imagine that these complaints must 
frequently proceed from their immoderate indul- 
gence in fat meats at their feasts^ particularly 
when they have been preceded by long fasting. 

They are naturally mild and affable, as well as 
just in their dealings, not only among themselves, 
but with strangers.* They are also generous and 

* They have been called thieves, but when that vice can 
with justics be attributed to them, it may be traced totUeir 



106 NEW TRAVELS 

hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, ex- 
cept w hen their nature is perverted by the inflam^ 
matory influence of spiritous liquors. To their 
children they are indulgent to a fault. The father^ 
though he assumes no command over them, is ever 
anxious to instruct them in all the preparatory 
qualifications for war and hunting ; while the mo- 
tlrer is equally attentive to her daughters in teach^ 
ing them every thing that is considered as neces* 
sary to their character and situation. It does not 
appear that the husband makes any distinction be^ 
twe.en the children of his wife, though they may be 
the offspring of different fathers. Illegitimacy is 
only attached to those who are born before their 
mothers have cohabited with any man by the title 
of husband. 

It does not appear, that chastity is considered by 
them as a virtue ; or that fidelity is believed to be 
essential to the happiness of a wedded life. Though 
it sometimes happens that the infidelity of the wife 
is pimished by the husband with the loss of her 
hair, nose, and perhaps life ; siich severity pro- 
ceeds from its liaving been practised without his 
permission: for a temporary interchange of wives 
is not uncommon ; and the offer of their pervsons is 
considered as a necessary part of the hospitality 
due to strangers. 

When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a 
duty to marry her sister, if she has one ; or he may, 
if he pleases, have them both at the same time. 

It will appear from the fatal consequences I have 
repeatedly imputed to the use of spiritous liquors, 
that I more particularly considered these people as 
having been, morally speaking, great sufferers 
from their communication with the subjects of civi- 
lized nations; At the same time they were not, in 
a state of nature, without their vices, and some of 
them of a kind which are the most abhorrent to 

connexion with tlie civilized people, who come into their coun- 
try to traffic. 



AMONG TIIE INDIANS. 107 

cultivated and reflecting* man. I shall only observe, 
that incest and bestiality are amoni^ them. 

When a young man marries, he immediately 
goes to live with the father and mother of his wife, 
who treat him, nevertlieless, as a perfect stranger, 
until after the birth of his first child : he then at- 
taches himself more to them than to his own pa- 
rents ; and his wife no longer gives him any other 
denomination than that of the father of her child. 

The profession of the men in war and Imnting, 
and the more active scene of their duty is the field 
of battle, and the chase in the woods. They also 
spear fish, but t!ie management of the nets is left 
to the women. The females of this nation are in 
the same subordinate state with those of all other 
savage tribes ; but the severity of their labour is 
much diminished by their situation on the banks of 
lakes and rivers, where they employ canoes. In 
the winter, when the waters are frozen they make 
their journeys, which are never of any great lengthy 
with sledges drawn by dogs. They are at the 
same time, subject to every kind of domestic 
drudgery ; they dress the leather, make the clothes 
and shoes, weave the nets, collect wood, erect the 
tents, fetch water, and perform every culinary ser- 
vice ; so that when the duties of maternal care are 
added, it will appear tha.t tlie life of these women 
is an uninterrupted succession of toil and pain. 
This, indeed is the sense they entertain of their own 
situation ; and, under the influence of that senti- 
ment, they are sometimes known to destroy their 
female children, to save them from the miseries 
wliich they themselves hav e suffered. Tliey also 
have a ready way, by the use of certain simples, 
of procuring abortions, which they sometimes 
practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save 
themselves the trouble which children occasion; 
and, as I have been credibly informed, this unna- 
tural act is repeated without any injury to the 
health of tbe women who perpetrate it. 

The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ce- 



108 NEW TRAVELS 

remonials, with smoking, and arc concluded by a 
feast. The body is dressed in the best habiliments 
possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is 
then deposited in a grave, lined with branches; 
some domestic utensils are placed on it, and a kind 
of canopy erected over it. During this ceremony, 
great lamentations are made ; and if the departed 
person is very much regretted, the near relations 
cut off their hair, pierce the fleshy part of their 
thiglis and arms with arrows, knives, &c. and 
blacken their face with charcoal. If tiiey have dis- 
tinguished themselves in war, they are sometimes 
on a kind of scaffolding ,* and I have been informed 
that women in the east, have been known to sacri- 
fice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The 
whole of tlie property belonging to the departed 
person is destroyed ; and the relations take in ex- 
change for the wearing apparel, any rags that will 
cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the 
occasion, which is, or at least used to be, repeated 
annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on the de- 
ceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the 
tomb is carved or painted, the symbols of his tribe, 
which are taken from the different animals of the 
country. 

Many and various are the motives which induce a 
savage to engage in war : to prove his courage or 
to revenge the death of his relations, or some of his 
tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe 
feels itself called upon to go to war, tlie elders con- 
vene the people, in order to know the general opi- 
nion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his in- 
tention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain 
period, to which solemnity, meditation and fasting 
are required as preparatory ceremonials. When 
the people are thus assembled, and the meeting 
sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief en- 
larges on the causes which have called them toge- 
ther, and the necessity of the measures proposed 
on the occasion. jl 

He then invites those who are willing to folio's? ^{ 



^ONG THE INDIANS. 109 

him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is con- 
sidered asthetokeiiof enrohnent; and if it should 
be the general opinion, that assistance is necessary, 
others' are invited with gi-eat formality, to join 
them. Every individual who attends these meet« 
ings brings something with him as a token of his 
warlike intentions, or as an object of sacrifice, 
which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended 
from poles near the place of council. 

They have frequently feasts, and particular cir- 
cumstances never fail to produce them ; such as a 
tedious illness, long fasting, &c. On these occa- 
sions it is usual for the person who means to give 
the entertainment, to announce his design, on a 
certain day of opening the medicine bag and smok- 
ing out his sacred stem. This declaration is con- 
sidered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. 
There are also stated periods, such as the spring 
and autumn, when they engage in very long and 
solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are 
offered as sacrifices ; and those which are very fat, 
and milk white, are preferred. They also make 
large offerings of their property, whatever it may 
be. The scene of these ceremonies is in an open 
enclosure on the bank of a river or lake, and in the 
most conspicuous situation, in order that such as 
are passing along or travelling, may be induced to 
make their offerings. These is also a particular 
custom among them, that on these occasions, if any 
of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing 
by, and be in real want of any thing that is dis- 
played as an offering, he has a right to take it, so 
that he replaces it with some article he can spare, 
though it be of far inferior value : but to take or 
touch any thing wantonly, is considered as a sacri- 
legious act, and highly insulting to the great Mas- 
ter of Life, to use their own expression, who is the 
sacred object of their devotion. 

The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the 
person who performs it, which is prepared for that 
purpose by removing every thing out of it, and 



110 NEW TRAVELS 

spreading green branches in every part. The fire 
and ashes are also taken away. A new hearth is 
made of fresh earth, and another fire is lighted. 
The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it ; and 
he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new 
cloth, or a w ell-dressed moose-skin neatly painted, 
on which he opens his medicine-bag and exposes 
its contents, consisting of various articles. The 
principle of them is a kind of household god, which 
is a small carved image about eiglit inches long. 
Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of 
birch bark is closely tied ; and the whole is enve- 
loped in several folds of red and blue cloth. Tliis 
little figure is an object of the most pious regard. 
The next artiele is his war-cap, which is decorated 
with the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, 
beavei^, and eagles' claws, &c. There is also sus-^ 
tended from it a quill or feather for every enemy 
: ,#liom the owner of it has slain in battle. The re- 
maining contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil 
tobacco, several roots and simples, wjj^ich are in 
great estimation for the medicinal qualities, and a 
pipe. These articles being all exposed, and the 
stem resting upon two forks, as it must not touch 
the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the 
person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to 
him, the pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. 
A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the fire 
in the pip^iand a double pointed pin, to empty it of 
the remnant of tobacco which is not consumed. 
This arrangement being made, the men assemble, 
and sometimes the women a,re allowed to be humble 
spectators, while the most religious awe and so- 
lemnity pervade the wliole. The Michiniwais, or 
Assistant, takes up tlie pipe, lights it, and presents 
it to the officiating person, who receives it stand- 
iin{^9 and holds it between both his hands. He then 
turns himself to the east, and draws a few whif!s$ 
which he blows to that point. Tlie same ccromony 
he observes to the other three quarters, with his 
eyes directed upwards during the whole of it. He 



AMONG THE INDIANS. Hi 

holds the stem about the middle between the three 
&st fingers of both hands, and raising them upon 
aline with his forehead, he swings it three times 
round from the east, with the sun, when, after 
pointing and balancing it in various directions, he 
reposes it on the forks ; he then makes a speech to 
explain the design of their being called together, 
which concludes with an acknowledgment of past 
mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them 
from the Master of Life. He then sits down ; and 
the whole company declare their approbation and 
thanks by uttering the word ho ! with an emphatic 
prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais 
then takes up the pipe and holds it to the mouth of 
the officiating* person, ^^o, after smoking three 
whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then 
goes ai'ound witli it, taking his course from east to 
west, to every person present, wJio individually 
says something to liim on the occasion ; and thus 
Jie pipe is generally smoked out; when after tunir^ 
nig it three or four times round his liead, he dropsW 
it downwards and replaces it in its original situa- 
tion. He then thanks the company for their atten- 
dance, and wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, 
health and long life. 

These smoking rites precede every matter of 
great importance, with more or less ceremony, but 
always with equal solemnity. The utility of them 
will appear from the following relation : 

If a chief is anxious to knov/ the disposition of 
his people towards him, or he wishes to settle any 
difference between them, he announces iiis inten- 
tion of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in 
his saci^d stem ; and no man who entertains a 
grudge against any of the piu'ty thus assembled, 
can smoke with the sacred stem ; as that cei*emony 
dissipates all differences, and is never violated. ♦ 

No one can avoid attending on these occasions; 
but a person may attend and be excused from as- 
sisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that 
he has not undergone the necessary purificati n. 
K 



115J NEW TRAVELS 

The having cohabited with his wife, or any^Qthcr 
woman, within twenty -four hours preceding me ce- 
re mony, renders him unclean, and, consequently 
disqualifies him from performing any part of it. If 
a contract is entered into and solemnized by the 
ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being faith- 
fully fullilled. If a person, previous to his going 
on ^journey, leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of 
his return, no cor sideration whatever will prevent 
him from executing his engagement.* 

I'he chief, when he proposes to make a feast, 
sends quills, or small pieces of wood, as tokens of 
invitation to such as he wishes to partake of it. At 
the appointed time the guests arrive, jeach bringing 
a dish or platter, and a knife, and take their seats 
on each side of the chief,^ho receives them sitting, 
accoi ding to their respective ages. The pipe is 
then lighted, and he makes an equal division of 
everything that is provided. While the company 
^^xre enjoying th.eir meaJ, the chief sings, and ac-w^| 
"Companies his song with the tamborine, or shishi- ^^ 
nuoi, or rattle. The guest who has first eaten his ^ 
portion is considered as the most distinguished per- > 
son. If there should be any who cannot finish the | 
w hole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on i 
some of their friends to eat it for them, who are re- t 
vvarded for their assistance with ammunition and 
tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these 
feasts a small quantity of meat offering is sacrificed, 
before they begin to eat by tlirowing it into the fire, 
or on the eartli. 

These feasts differ according to circumstances ; 
sometimes each man's allowance is no more than he 
can despatch in a couple of hours. 

yVt other times the quantity is sufiicient to supply 
each of thcra with food for a week, though it must 
be devoured in a day. On these occasions it is very 
difticult to procure substitutes, and the whole must 

* It is however to be lamented, that of late there is a relax- 
"xKSon o^■ the duties originally attached to these festivals. 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 115 

be eaten whatever time it may require. At some 
of these entertainments there is a more rational ar- 
rangement, when the guests are allowed to .carry 
home with them the superfluous part of their por- 
tions. Great care is always taken that the bones 
may be burned, as it would be considered a profa- 
nation were the dogs permitted to touch tliem. 

The public feasts are conducted in the same man- 
ner, but with some additional ceremony. Several 
chiefs officiate at them, and procure the necessary 
provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of re~ 
ception for the numerous company. Here the guests 
discourse upon public topics, repeat the heroic 
deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising gen- 
eration to follow their example. The entertain- 
ments on these occasions consist of dried meats, as 
it would not be practicable to dress a sufficient 
quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly ; 
tnough the women and children are excluded. 

Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and 
annually, in honour of the dead; but they have 
been, for sometime, growing into disuse, and I ne- 
ver had an opportunity of being present at any of 
them. 

The women, who are forbinden to enter the places 
sacred to these festivals, dance and sing around 
them, and sometimes beat time to the music within 
them ; which forms an agreeable contrast. 

With respect to their divisions of time, they com- 
pute the length of journies by the number of nights 
passed in performing them ; and they divide the 
year by their own succession of moons. In this 
calculation, however, they are not altogether cor- 
rect, as they cannot account for odd days. 

The names which they give to the moons, are de- 
scriptive of the several seasons, and as follows : 

May . . <. Frog Moon. 
June . . '. 1 The moon in wliich birds 
J begin to lay their e^gs^ 



114 



NEW TRAVELS 



Jiiiy 


I The moon when birds cast 
J their feathers. 




Airgust . 


. \ The moon when the young 
J birds begin to fly. 




September 


") The moon w hen the Moose 
J Deer cast their horns. 




October . 


The rotting moon. 


iVovember 


Hoar-frost moon. 


Oecember 


Whirlwind moon. 


Janiiarv 


Extreme cold moon. 


February 


1 Big moon ; some say. Old 
J moon. 


March . 


Eagle moon. 


Ipril 


Goose moon. 



These people know the medicinal virtues of 
many herbs and simples, and apply the roots of 
plants and the bark of trees with success. But 
5 he conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, 
find it necessary to blend mystery with their art, 
and do not communicate tlieir knowledge. Their 
inateria medica they administer in the form of 
purges and clysters | but the remedies and surgi- 
al operations are supposed to derive much of their 
ffect from magic and incantation. When a blister 
rises in the foot from the frost, the chafing of the 
shoe, &c., they immediately open it, and apply the 
heated blade of a kiaife to the part, which, painful 
as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp 
iiint serves them as a lancet for letting blood, as 
well as for scarification in bruises and swellings. 
For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed is 
considered as the best remedy. They are very 
fond of European medicines, though they arc ig- 
norant of their ap])lication : and those articles 
form an inconsiderable part of the European traf- 
fic with them. 

Among their various superstitions, they believe 
the vapour which is seen to hover over moist and 
■swampy places is the spii'it of some person lately 



J 



AMONG THE INDIANS. 115 

dead. They also fancy another spirit, which ap- 
pears in the shape of a man, upon the trees near 
the lodge of a person deceased, whose property 
has not been intered with him. He is represented 
as bearing a gun in his hand; and it is believed 
that he does not return to his rest, until the pro- 
perty, that has been withheld from the grave has 
been sacrificed to it. 



EXAMPLES 



OF 


THEIR 

1 


£JIJ^GUAGE. 


' 




1 


Knistenaux. 


Good spirit 


^ 


t. 


KijaiManitou 


Evil spirit 


» 


- 


Matchi manito^i 


Man 


,. 


-. 


Ethini 


Woman 




„ 


Esquois 


Male 


- 


- 


Naphew 


Female - 


- 


- 


Non-gense 


Infant » 


- 


= 


A' wash ish 


Head 


„ 


~ 


Us ti quoin 


Fore head 


-' 




Es caa tick 


Hair 


„ 


,- 


Wes ty ky 


Eyes ^'^- 
Nose 


«l: 


m 


E^kisock 
Oskiwin 


Nostrils - 


. 




Oo tith ee gow mow 


MoHth . 


- 


- 


toune 


My teeth - 


«. 


_ 


Wippittah 
Otaithana 


Tongue - 


» 


^ 


Beard 


f! 


- 


Michiteune 


Brain 


r 


- 


With i tip 


Ears 


. 


- 


towjee gio 


Neck 


^ 


- 


qui 6w 


Throat - 


•- 


■- 


koot tas gy 


Arms 




» 


Onisk 


Fingers - 




. 


Che che€ 


Nails 




„ 


Wos kos sia 


Side 




» 


O's spin gy 


My back 




- 


No pis quan 


My belly 




- 


Nattay 


Thighs - 




- 


povam 


My knees 




- 


No che quoin nah 


Legs 




- 


Nosk 


Heart - 




. 


Othea 


My father 




- 


Noo ta wie 



THMR LANGUAGE. 



117 



My mother 

My Jioy, (sen) - 

My girl, (daughter) - 

My brother, eider 

My sister, elder 

My grandfather 

My- grandmother 

My «ncle 

My. nephew 

My niece 

My mother in law 

My brother in law - 

My companioa * t 

My husband - 

Blood 

Old man 

I am angry 

I fear - . - 

Joy . - - 

Hearing 

gPrack - 

Chief, great ruler - 

Thief 

Excrement 

Buffalo - 

Ferret 

Pole cat 

Elk . - - 

Rein deer * . - 

Fallow deer 

Beaver 

Woolverine - 

Squirrel 

Mink - 

Otter 

Wolf 

Hare - - . 

Marten 

Moose ... 

Bear » ~ - 



Knistciiaux, 

Nigah wei 

Negousis 

Netanis 

Ni stess 

Ne miss 
"** Ne moo shum 

N'o kum 

N' o'ka miss 

N-e too sini 

Ne too sim csquois 

Nisigouse 

Nistah 

Ne wechi wagan 

Ni nap pern 

Mith coo 

Shi nap 

Ne kis si wash en 

Ne goos tow 

Ne heiftha torn 

Pethom 

Mis conna 

Haukimah 

Kismouthesk 

Meyee 

Moustouche 

Sisous 

Shicak 

Moustouche 

Attick 

Attiek 

Amisk 

Qui qua katch 

Ennequachas 

Sa quasue 

Nekick 

Mayegan 

Wapouce 

Wappistan 

Mouswah 

Masqua 



118 



EXAMPLES OF 



Fisher 

Lynx 

Porcupine 

Fox 

Musk rat 

Mouse 

Cow Buffalo - 

Meat-flesh 

Dog 

Eagle 

Duck 

Crow, Corbeau 

Swan 

Turkey 

Pheasants 

Bird 

Outard - 

White Goosew- 

Grey Goose ^- 

Partridgc 

Water Hen 

Dove 

Eggs 

Pipe or Jack - 

Carp - . -' 

Sturgeon 

White Fish - 

Pikrel - 

Fish (in general) 

Spawn 

Fins 

Trout 

Craw Fish 

Frog 

Wasp 

Turtle 

Snake 

Awl 

Needle 

Fire steel 



Knistenaux. 

Wijask 

Picheu 

Cau quah 

Ma kisew 

Wajask 
*"** Abieushiss 

Noshi Moustoiiche 

Wias 

Atim 

Makusue 

Sy sip 

Ca Cawkeu 

Wapiscu 

Mes sei thew 

Okes kew 

Pethesew 

Niscag 

Wey Wois 

Pestasish 

Pithew 

Chiquibish 

Omi Mee 

Wa Wah 

Kenonge 

Na may bin 

Na May 

Aticaming 

Oc-chaw , 

Kenonge ', 

Waquon 

Chi chi kan 

Na gouse 

A shag gee 

A thick 

Ah moo 

Mikinack 

Kinibic 

Oscajick 

Saboinigan 

Appet 



THEIR LANGUAGE. 



119 





Knistenaux. 


Fire wood 


Mich-tah 


Cradle . 


Teckinigan 


Dagger . 


Ta comagau 


Arrow 


Augusk or Atouche 


Fish Hook 


Quosquipichican 


Axe 


Seegaygan 


Ear-bob . 


Chi-kisebisoun 


Comb 


Sicahoun 


Net 


Athahe 


Tree 


Mistick 


Wood 


Mistick 


Paddle . 


Aboi 


Canoe 


Chiman 


Birch Rind 


Wasquoi 


Bark 


Wasquoi 


Touch Wood . 


Pousagaii 


Leaf 


^ Nepeshah 


Grass 


Masquosi 


Raspberries 


Misqui-meinac 


Strawberries , 


O'-tai-e-minac 


Ashes 


Pecouch 


Fire 


Scou-tay 


Grapes 


Shomenac 


Fog 


Pakishihow 


Mud 


Asus ki 


Currant . 


Kisijiwin 


Road 


Mescanah 


Winter . 


Pipoun 


Island 


Ministic 


Lake 


Sagayian 


Sun 


Pisim 


Moon 


Tibisca pesiin (the 




night Sun) j 
Kigigah ^ 


Day 


Might 


Tibisca 


Snow 


Cosnah 


Rain 


Kimiwoin 


Drift 


Pewan 


Hail 


Shes eagan 


Ice 


Mesquaming 



120 



EXAMPLES OF 









Knistenaux, 


Frost . . . Aquatin 


Mist 




Picasyow 


Water 




Nepec 


Mountain 




Messe asky (all the 

earth) 
Wachee 


World . 




Sea 






Kitchi kitchi ga ming 


Morning 






Kequishepe 


Mid-day . 






Abetah quisheik 


Portage 






Unygam 


Spring 






Menouscaming 


River 






Sipec 


Rapid 






Bawastick 


Rivule^ 






Sepeesis 


Sand 






Thocaw 


Earth 






Askee 


Star 






Attack 


Thunder , 






Pithuseu 


Wind 






Thoutin 


Calm 






Athawostin 


Heat 






Quishipoi 


Eveninff 






Takashike 


North * 






Kywoitin 


South 






Sawena woon 


East 






Coshawcastak 


West 






» Pasquismou 


To-morro\i 






Wabank 


Bone 






Oskann 


Broth 






Micliim wabot 


Feast 






Maqua see 


Grease or oil , 




Pimis 


Marrow fat 




Oscan pimis 


Sinew- 




Asstis 


Lodge 






Wig waum 


Bed 






Ne pa win 


Within 






Pendog ke 


Door 






Squandam 


Dish 






Othagan 


Fort 






Wasgaigan 


Sledge 






Tabanask 



THEIR LANGUAGE. 



±Zi 



Cincture 

Cap 

Stocks 

Shirt 

Coat 

Blanket 

Cloth 

Thread 

Garters 

Mittens 

Shoes 

Smoking bag 

Portage sling 

Straight on 

Meclic'me 

Red 

Blue 

White 

Yellow . 

Green 

Ugly 

Handsome 

Beautiful . 

Deaf 

Good-natured 

Pregnant . 

Fat 

Big 

Small or little 

Short 

Skin 

Long 

Strong 

Coward . 

Weak 

Lean 

Brave 

Youngman 

Cold 



Knistenaux. 
, Poquoatehown 
Astotin 
Achican 
Papacheweyan 
Papise-co-wagan 
Wape weyang 
Maneto weguin 
Assabab 
Chi ki-bisoon 
Astissack 
Maskisin 
Kusquepetagan 
Apisan 
Goi ask 
Mas ki kee 
Mes coh 
Kasqutch (same as 

black) 
Wabisca 
Saw waw 
Chibatiquare 
Mache nagouseu 
Catawassiseu 
Kissi Sawenogan 
Nima petom 
Mithiwashin 
Paawie 
Outhineu 
Mushikitee 
Abisasheu 
Chemasish 
Wian 
Kinwain 
Mascawa 
Sagatahaw 
Nithamissew 
Matha waw 
Nima Gustaw 
Osquineguish 
Kissin M 



z% 




EXAMPLES OF 






Knisterulux, 


Hot 




Kicbatai 


Spring 






Minouscaming 


Summer 






Nibin 


Fall 






Tagowagonk 


One 




. 


Peyac 


Two 






Nisheu 


Three 




. 


Nishteu 


Four 






Neway 


Five 






Ni-annan 


Six 






Negoutawoesie 
Nish wissic 


Seven 






Eight 






Jannanew 


Nine 






Shack 


Ten 






Mitatat 


Eleven 






Peyac osap 


Twelve 






Nisheu osap 


Thirteen . 






Nithou osap 


Fourteen . 






Neway osap 


Fifteen . 






Niannan osap 


Sixteen . 






Nigoutuwoesic osap 


Seventeen 




Nish woesic osap 


Eighteen 




Jaiinenewosap 


Nineteen . 




Sliack osap 


Twenty . 




Nishew mitenah 


Twenty-one 




Nishew mitenah peyae 


Twenty-t\Yo, &c. 


USdp 

Nisheu mitenah nish- 






eu osap 


Thirty 


. 


Nishtou mitenah 


Forty 






Newey mitenah 


Fifty 






Niannan mitenah 


Sixty 






Negoutawosic mitenah 


Seventv 






Niswoisicmitcnah 


Eighty 






Sannaeu mitenah 


Ninety 






Shack mitenah 


Hunched . 






Mitaua mitinah 


Two Hundred 




Neshew mitenah a mi- 
tenah 


One Thousand 


» 


Mitenah mitena mite- 








nah 



IHEIR LANGUAGE, 



iZb 





fCuistenaux. 


First 


Nican 


Last 


Squayatch 


More 


Minah 


Better 


Athiwack mithawashia 


Best 


Athiwack mithawashia 


I, or mc . 


Nitha 


You, or thou 


Kitlia 


They, or them 


Withawaw 


We 


Nitliawaw 


My, or mine 


Nitayan 


Yours 


Kitayan 


Whom . 


Awione 


His or hers 


Of ay an 


All 


Kakithau 


Some, or some 1 


ew . Very peyac 


The same 


Tabescoutch 


411 the world 


iSIissi acki wanquo 


All the men 


Kakitiiaw EtUinyock 


Sometimes 


I as CDW-puco 


Arrive 


To coiichin 


Beat 


tarn aha 


To burn . 


Mistascasoo 


^ sing . 


Nagamoun 


— cut^ 


Kisquishan 


— . hide 


Catann 


— cover . 


Acquahoun 


— believe 


Taboitam 


— sleep . 


Nepan 


— dispute 


Kc ko mi towock 


— dance . 


Nemaytow -^^^^:^^^ 


— give . 


With ^ii0^l^ 


— do 


Ogitanu - ^^ 


~ eat 


Wissinee 


— die 


Nepew 


— forget . 


Winnekiskisew 


>— speak . 


Athimetakouse 


— cry (tears) 


Mantow 


— laugh . 


Papew 


— sit down 


Nematappe 


— walk . 


Pimoutais 



124 



EXAMPLES, 6te 



Tafall , 

— work . 
^ kill . 
^ sell 

— live 

— see 

— come 
Enough . 
It hails . 
There is some 
There is . 

It rains 

After to-morrow 

ro-day • 

Thereaway 

Much 

Presently . 

Make, heart, 

This morning 

This night 

Above 

Below 

Truly 

Already 

Yet, more 

Yesterday 

Far ^ . 
' Near 

Never 

No 

Yes 

By and by 

Aiways 

Make haste 

It's long since 



fCistetiaux. 
Packisin 
Ah tus kew 
Nipahaw 
Attawom 
Pimatise 
Wabam 
Astamotch 
Egothigog 
Siiisigan 

> Ay a wa 

Quimiwoin 

A wis wabank 

Anoutch 

Netoi 

Michett 

Pischisqua 

Quitliipeh 

Shebas 

Tibiscag 

Espiming 

Tabassish 

Taboiy 

Sashay 

Minah 

TacoHshick 

Wathow 

Qnishiwoac 

Nima wecatch 

Nima 

Ah 

Pa-nima 

Ka-ki-kec 

Quethepeh 

Mewaisha 



SOME ACCOUIMT 



OE THIi 



CHEFEWYA^^ IJS^BIJ^YS. 



They are a numerous people, who consider the 
country between the parallels of latitude 60 and 65 
north, and longitude 100 to 110 west, as their lands 
or home. They speak a copious language, which is 
very difficult to be attained. 

It is not possible to form any just estimate of their 
numbers j but it is apparent, nevertheless, that they 
are by no means proportionate to the vast extent of 
their territories, which may i\\ some degree be at- 
-Jributed to the riVvages of the small-pox. Which are 
more or less evident thi'oughout this part of the 
continent. 

The notion which these people entertain of the 
creationfis of a very sing ular n ature. They believe 
that, at the first, the globe was one vast and entire 
ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except ^ 
mighty bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances 
were lightning, and the clapping of whose wings 
was thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and 
touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained 
on the surface of the waters. This omnipotent bird 
then called forth all the variety of animals from 
the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were pro- 
duced from a dog ; and this circumstance occasions 
their aversion to the He sh of that animal, as well as 
the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradi- 
tion proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having 
finished his work, made an arrow, which was to be 
preserved with great care, and to remain untouch- 
ed; but that the Chrpevvyans were so devoid of un- 



128 CllEPEWYAIS 

-tierstanding, as to carry it away ; and the sacrilege 
>so enraged the bird, that he has nt\ ei* since ap- 
peared. 

They have also a tradition among thcni, that tliey 
originally came Trom another country, inliabitedby 
a very wicked people, and have traversed a great 
lake which was narrow, slia'low, and full of islands, 
where they had snifered great misery, it being al- 
ways winter, with ice and deep snow. At the Cop- 
per mine river, where they made the first land, the 
ground was covered with copper, over which a body 
^f earth has since been collected, to the depth of a 
man's height. They believe also, that in ancient 
times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn 
out with walking, and their throats with eating. 
They describe a deluge, when the waters spread 
ever the whole earth, except the highest mountains, 
on the tops of which they preserved tliemselves. 

They believe, that immediately after their death, 
They pass into anctht-r v/orid, v.hcre they arrive at 
Vi iarge river, on whicli they embark in a stone ca- 
noe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an 
r^xtensive lake, in the centre of which is a most 
bciiudful island ; and that, in the view of this de- 
lightful abode, tliey receive that judgmen^or their 
conduct during life, which terminates their final 
^tate and unaltei-able allotment. If their good ac- 
tions are declared to predominate, they are landed 
upon tlic island, where there is to be no end t-o their 
bappincss; which, however, according to their no- 
tions, consist in an eternal enjoyment of sensual 
pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if there be 
Dad actions to weigh down the balance, the stone 
canoe sinks at once, and h ayes them up to their 
chins in the water, to behold and regret the 
Vcward enjoyed by the good, and eternally strug- 
gling, bur, with unavailing endeavours, to reach 
the blissful island, from which tliey aie excluded 
forever. 

They have some faint notions of Uie transmigra- 
tion of the sou!: so that U a cliild bo born with 



A^ 



INDIANS- i^i, 

teeth, iiiOy instantly imagine, from its premature 
appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some 
person who had lived to an advanced period, and 
that he has assumed a renovated life, with these ex- 
traordinary tokens of maturity. 

The Chepewyans are sobei-, timorous, and vag- 
rant, with a selfish disposition which has sometimes 
ci'eated suspicions of theii* integrity. Their stature 
has nothing remarkable in it ; but though they are 
seldom corpulent, tliey are sometimes robust. Their 
complexion is swartliy ; their features coarse, and 
their hair lank, but not always of a dingy black ; 
nor have they universally the piercing eye, which 
generally animates the Indian countenariCe. The 
women have a more agreeable aspect than the men ; 
but their gait is awkward, which pi^oceeds from 
their being accustomed nine months in the year, to 
travel on snow-shoes and drag sledges of a weight 
from two to four hundred pounds. They are very 
submissive to their husbands, who have, however, 
their fits of jeabusy ; and, for very trilling causes, 
treat them witA such cruelty as sometimes to occa- 
sion theii;,,d^ath. They are frequently objects of 
traffic 5^/^ the father possesses the right of dispos- 
ing of Infaaughter.* The men in general extract 
their be^i'ds ; though some of ihem are seen to pre- 
fer a bishy, black beard, to a smooth chin. They 
cut tleir hair in various forms, or leave it in a long 
natA'al flow, according as their caprice or fancy 
su/gests. The women always wear it in a great 
ieigth ; and some of them are very attentive to its 
;rrangement. If they at any time appear despoiled 
^f their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the 
/husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer 
punishment than manual correction. Both sexes 
have blue or black bars, or from one to four straight 
lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguisii'the 

• They do not, however, seil them as slaves, but as com- 
panions to those who are supposed to live more coeiifor; W- 
*-ha.:2 themselves. 

L 2 



Uo *CH£r^E>VYAN 

tribe to which they belong. These iiiaiks are either 
tatooed, or made by drawing a tliread, dipped iii the 
necessary colour, beneath the skin. 

There are no people more attentive to the com- 
forts of their dress, or less anxious respecting its 
exterior appearance. In the winter it is composed 
oftlje skiiKSof deer, and their fawns, and dressed as 
fine as any chamois leather in the liair. In the sum- 
mei* their apparel is the same, except that it is pi*e- 
pared without the hair. The shoes and leggins arc 
sewed together, tlie latter reaching upwards, to the 
middle, and being supported by a belt, under which 
a small piece of leather is drawn to cover the private 
partsi the ends of which fall down both before and 
behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose 
or rein-deer, witli additional pieces of leather as 
socks. The shirt, or coat, wlieji girded round the 
waist, reaches the hiiddle of the thigh ; and the mit- 
tens are sew ed to the sleeves, or are suspended by 
strings from the shoulders. A rulf or tippet sur- 
rounds the neck; and the skin of the head of the 
deer forms a curious kind of cap, A vobe, made of 
several deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers 
the whole. This dress is worn single or fouble, but 
al\^ ays in the winter, with tlie hair ^^ itliin t5f(l with- 
out. Thus arrayed, a Chepewyan will la> himself 
down on the ice i*n the middle of a lake, and -epose 
in comfort ; though he will sometimes find a dificulty 
in the morning to disencumber himself from'the 
snow drifted on him during the night. If in Ms 
passage he should be in want of provision, he citg 
a hole in the ice, wlien he seldom fails of taking 
some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops 
out, and eats as a great delicacy ; but if they should 
not be sufficient to satisfy his appetite, he will, in 
this necessitv, make his meal of the iish in its raw 
state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress 
their victuals when circumstances admitted the ne- 
cessary preparation. When they are in thj^ part 
of their country which does not produce a suthcicnt 
quantitv of wood lor fuel^ they are reduced to the 



INDlAiNS. IJJ 

same c'xi,^oiicy, thoiig*h they geiicrally dry their 
meat intiiesini,* 

The dress ol* the women differs from that of the 
ineu. Tlieir leggins are tied below tlic knee ; and 
their coat or sliift is wide, Iiangini^ down to t!ic an- 
kle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, 
which is fastened round the waist. Those who 
have children have these garments made full about 
the shoulders ; and when they are travelliii,2; they 
carry tlieir infants upon their backs, next theiV 
skin, in which situation they are perfectly comfort- 
able, and in a position convenient to be suckled. 
Nov do they discontinue to give their milk to them 
until th^j liavc another cJdld. Child-birth is not 
the object of that tender cai'e and serious attention 
among the savages as it is among civilized people. 
At this period no part of their usual occupation is 
omitted ; and this continual and regular exercise 
must contribute to the welfare of the mother, both 
in tJie progress of ])artnition and in tlie moment of 
delivery. The women have a singular custom of cut- 
ting off a small piece of the navel-string of the new 
born children, and hanging it about their necks : 

* The provision called Pemican, on which the Chepewyans, 
v.s well as the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in 
iheir jouniief , is prepared in the following manner. The lean 
parts of the flesh of the larger animals are cut in thin slices, 
And are placed on a wooden grate over a slow fire, or exposed 
.3 the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These operations dry 
•t; and in that state it is pounded between two stones: it will 
th(?h keep with care for several years. If, however, it is kept in 
laige cuanlities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of the 
year, when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay* 
The inside fat, and that of the rump, which is much thicker in 
these wild than our domestic animals, is melted down and mix- 
(;d in a boiling state, witli the pounded meat, in equal propor- 
ti0::is ■. it is then put in baskets or bags for the convenience of 
carVying it. Thus It becomes a nntriiious food, an;l is eaten, 
without any further preparation, or the addition of spice, salt, 
or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A little time re- 
conciles it to the palale. There is another sort made with 
the addiuon of marrow and drried berries, which is of asuperiw 
quality. • 



±S2 CtlKPEWYAN 

they are curious in the covering they make for it, 
which they decorate witli porcupines' quills and 
beads. 

Though the women are as much in the power of 
the men, as any other articles of their property, 
they are always consulted, and possess a a ery con- 
sidei-able influence in the traftic with Europeans, 
and other important concerns. 

Plurality of wives is common among them ; and 
the ceremony of marriage is of a very simple na- 
ture. The girls are betrothed at a very early pe- 
riod to those whom the parents think the best able 
to support them : nor is the inclination of the wo- 
man considered. Whenever a sepai'ation takes 
place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely 
on the will and pleasure of the husband. In com- 
mon with the other Indians of this country, tliey 
have a custom respecting the periodical state of a 
woman, which is rigorously observed ; at that time 
she must seclude herself from society. They are 
not even allowed in that situation to keep the same 
path as the men, when travelling : and it is consi- 
dered a great breach of decency for a woman so 
circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly occu- 
pation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile 
them, so tliat their subsequent use would be followed 
by certain mischief or misfortune. There are par- 
ticular skins which the women never touch, as of 
the bear and wolf, but those animals the men are 
seldom known to kill. 

They are not remarkable for their activity ^s 
hunters, which is owing to the ease with which they 
snare deer and spear fish : and these occupations 
are not beyond the strength of their old men, wo- 
men, and boys : so that they participate in thos^ 
laborious occupations, which among their neigh- 
bours are confined to the women. They make war 
on the Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior 
numbers, and put them to death.; as it is a princi- 
ple with them wever to make prisoners. At the 
same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux^ 



wrio ;iio iiyi so numorous as thems'jlvccj., when they 
tr(-iiL them as enemies. 

'ihcv do not affect that cokl reserve at meeting 
ritiier among tlienisehes or strangers, which is com- 
mon with the Knistciieaux, hut commiinieate mu- 
tualJv, and at once ali ihe iiiibrmation of which they 
are possessed. Nor are they roused like them from 
an apparent torpor to a state of great activity* 
They are consequently more uniform in this respect, 
though they are of a' very persevering disposition 
when their interest is concerned. . 

As these people are not addicted to spirituous 
liquors, they have a regular and uninterrupted use 
of their undcrstar.ding, Yvhicii is always dii=ected to 
the advancement of tlieir own interest; and this dis- 
position, as may he readily imagined, sometimes,oc« 
casions them to be charged with fraudulent habits. 
They will submit with patience to the severest treat- 
ment, when they are conscious they deserve it, but 
will never forget nor forgive any wanton or unne- 
cessary rig<H«». A moderate eondwct I never found 
to fail ; nor do I hesitate to represent them, alto- 
gether, as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known 
in North America. 

There are conjurers and high-priests; but I was 
not present at any of their ceremonies; though 
they certainly operate in an extraordinary manner 
on the imaginations of the people in the cureof dis 
orders. Their piincipal maladies are the rheuma- 
tic pains, the fiux, and consumption. The venereal 
complaint is very common ; but thougii its progres^s 
is' slow, it gradually undermines the constitution, 
and brings on premature decay. They liave re 
course to superstition for their cure ; and chariftS 
:u'c their only remedies, except the bark of the wil- 
low, which being burned and reduced to powder is 
si rewed u]>on green wounds and ulcers, and places 
contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use 
of simjdes and plants they have no knowledge ; noi" 
' an it be expected, as their cjimtrv does not pro- 
duce them , 



13* CHEPEWYAN 

Tliough they have enjoyed so long an intercourse 
w ith Europeans, their country is so barren, as not 
to be capable of producing; the ordinary necessaries 
naturally introduced by such a communication ; and 
they continue, in a great measure, their own incon- 
venient and awkward modes of taking their game 
and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they 
drive the deer into small lakes, where they spear 
them, OF force them into enclosures, where the bow 
and arrow are employed against them. These ani- 
mals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the 
former instance, the game is divided among those 
who have been engaged in the pursuit of it. In the 
latter, it is considered as private property ; never- 
theless, any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may 
take a deer so caught, leaving the head, skin, and 
saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no 
regular government, as every man is lord in his own 
family, they are influenced more or less, by certain 
principles which conduce to their general benefit. 

In their nuarrels with each other, they very rarely 
^proceed to a greater degree of violence than is oc- 
casioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling of the 
liair ; while their abusive language consists in ap- 
plying the name of the most offensive animal to the 
object of their displeasure, and adding the term 
ugly, and chiay, or stillborn.* 

' Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition 
to the articles procured from Americans are spears, 
bows and arrows, fishing-nets, and lines made of 
green deerskin thongs. They have also nets for tak- 
ing the beaver as he endeavoui*s to escape from his 
lodge when it is broken open, it is set in a particular 
manner for the purpose 5 and a man is employed to 
watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he 
would soon cut liis way through it* He is then 
thrown upon the icc; where he remains as if he had 
no life in him. 

' This name is clso applicable to the flietus of an animal, 
when killed, which is considered as one oi" U^e greatest deli- 



INDIANS. 155 

The snow-shoCvS arc of a cry superior workman- 
ship. The inner part of their frame is straight, the 
«>Hter one is curved, and it is pointed at both ends, 
with that in front turned up. Tliej are also laced 
with great neatness, with thongs made of deer-skin. 
The sledges aiV formed of tliin slips of board turned 
up also in front, and are highly polished with crook- 
4!d knives in order to slide along with facility. 
Close-grained wood is, on that recount, the best 5 
but theirs are made of the red or swamp vSprucc-fir 
tree. 

The country, which these people claim as theii 
land, has a very small quantity of earth, and pro- 
duces little or no wood or herbage. Its cliief vege- 
table substance is the moss, on which the deer feed ; 
and a kind of rock-moss, which, in times of scarcity, 
preserves the lives of the natives. When boiled in 
\vater, is dissolves into a clammy glutinous sub- 
stance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. 
But notwithstanding the barren state of their coun- 
try, with proper care and economy, these people 
might live in great comfort ; for the lakes abound 
Vvith fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Tbo% 
of all the Indian people of this continent, they are 
considered as the most provident, they suffer se- 
verely* at certain seasons, and particularly in the 
4ead of winter, when they are under the necessity 
of retiring to their scanty woods. To the westward 
of them, the musk-ox may be found; but they have 
no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. 
There are also large hares, a few white wolves, pe- 
culiar to their country, and several kinds of foxes, 
with white and gray partridges, &c. l^he beaver 
and moose-deer they do not find until they come 
within sixty degrees north latitude ; and the buffa- 
loe is still further south. That animal is known to 
frequent an higher latitude to the westward of their 
country. These people bring pieces of variegated 
marble, which are found on the surface of the earth. 
It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and hardens 
^ith time^ it endures heat, and is manufactured 



136 CHEPEWYAIS 

into pipes or calumets, as Hiey arc very fond oi' 
smoking tobacco ; a luxury whicli the Europeans 
communicated to tliem. 

Their amusements or recreations arc but few. 
Their music is so inharmonious, and their dancing 
so awkward, that they might be supposed to be 
ashamed of both, as tliey very seldom practice 
either. They also shoot at marks, an'd play at tlic 
i^ames common amon,i^ tliem^ but in fact prefer 
sleeping to either; avid the greater part of their 
time is passed in procuring food, and rcstin^g from 
the toil necessary to obtain it. 

They are also of a querulous disposition, Rnd are 
continually making complaints ; whicli they express 
by a constant repetition of the. word ediiiy* ** it is 
hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. 

They are superstitious in the extreme ; and al- 
most every action of their lives, liowcver trivial, is 
more or less influenced by some whimsical notion. 
I never observed tliat they had any ])articularform 
of religious worship; but as they believe in a good 
and evil spirit, and a state of future rewards and 
punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious im- 
pressions. At the same time they manifest a deci- 
ded unwillingness to make any communications on 
tlic subject. !> 

The Chepewyans have been accused of abandon 
ing their aged and infirm people to perish, and of 
not burying their dead ; but these are melancholy 
necessities, which proceed from their wandering 
w^ay of life. They are by no means universal ; for 
it is within my knowledge, that a man rendered 
helpless by palsy, was carried about for many 
years, with tlie greatest tenderness and attention, 
till he died a natural death. That they should not 
bury their dead in their own country, cannot be 
imputed to them a custom arising from a savage in- 
sensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that 
the ground never thaws ; but it is well known, that 
when they ai*e in the woods, they cover their dead 
with trees. Besides, they manifest no common re 



INDIANS. 137 

.peer Ui the memory of their departed friends, by a 
hmu; period of n!i>uViung, ciittinp; of their liair, and 
nc^Tk' nuike use of the property of the deceased. 
Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, 
as a token of regret and sorrow. 

If there be any people who, from the barren state 
*)f the country, might be supposed to be cannibals 
by nature, these people from the difficulty they at 
times experience in procuring food, might be liable 
to that imputation. BnU m all my knowledge of 
them, L nc\ cr was acquainted with one instance of 
that disposition ; nor among all the natives, which 
I met Willi in a route of five thousand miles, did I 
see or hear of an example of cannibalism, but such 
CIS arose from that irresistiible necessity, which has 
been known to impel even the mosi civil? zed people 
to eat each otlier. 



^ 



M 



STATISTICAL VlEn. 
GRAND OSAGE. 



They cinim xlic cxoiiitry wilhhi (lie foliowing li- 
icits, viz. cainnieiiciiig jit the oioutli of a south 
l)3'aiicli of the (Jsai^e 'river, called JW'ungua, ami 
with the sanie to its source, tlicnce southwardlv to 
intei'seet the Arkansas, about one liuudred miles be- 
low tlie tiii'cc f< rks of t!iat ri^ ei* ^ thence up the 
principal bi-aiieh of tlie f-jarae, to the confluence of a 
lars:eiiorth\\ardiy branch of the same, lyingacon- 
vsiderable distance west of the Great Saline, and 
witlithat sti-eam nearly to its source : thence north- 
v» ardly, towards the Kansas river, embracing the 
waters oi' Hie ii]}perpo)tion of the Osai^c river ; and 
thence obliquely approachint;: the same to the be- 
ginning. The climate is delightful, and the soil 
lertiie in tbe extreme. The face of the country is 
generally level, and well ^^ atci-ed ; tlie eastern part 
of the country is covered with Ji variety of excellenl 
timber; the western and niiddle country, higli 
prairies, li embraces within its limits four salines, 
which are, in point of magnitude and excellence, 
unequalled by any known in North Amei'ica; there 
are also maPiy others of less note. The principal 
part of the Great Osage have always resided at 
their villages, on the Osage I'iver, since they have 
been known to the inhabitants of Louisiana. About 
three years since, nearly one half of this nation, 
headed by tlieir chief the Blgtrack, emigrated to 
three forks of tlie Arkansas ; near which, and on 
its north side, they established a village, where 
th'; i! »w reside. The Little Osage formerly re- 
sided ou th: south west side of the "Missouri, near 
the mouth of Grand river ; but;, being reduced by 



STATISTICAL VIEW. 139 

contiuiml warfare with their neighbours, were 
compelled to seek the protection ot the Irrcat Us- 
a-c ; near whom they now reside. There is no 
doubt but their trade will increase : they couKi 
runiish a much lai',2;er quantity ot* beaver than they 
do. I think two ' viilasi^es, on the Osage river, 
mia:ht b:- prevailed on to remove to the Arkansa.^, 
and the. Rarinas, higher up the Missouri, and thu3 
l3a\'e asuiiicient scope of country for the Shawnces, 
Delawars, Miames, and Kickapoos, The Osages 
cultivate corn, heu.is, &c. 

KANSAS. 

Tiin limits of the coimtry they elainu is not 
known. The couufry in whki) iMvv ^v;oHiae, and 
from thrncc to t\w Missouri is a dehglvJui one, ana 
^pncrallv well watered, and covered witfi excellent 
timber ; "they hunt to the upper part of Ivansas and 
\rkansas rivers 5 th-ir trade may be expected to 
increase with pronrr management. At present 
they arc a diss.')iute, lawless banditti ; frequently 
plunder their traders aiid commit depredations on 
perrions ascending and <lescending tlie Missouri 
river; population rather increasing, Tlicse people, 
as well as the Great and Little Osages, arc station- 
ary, at their villages, from about the lath of March 
to the 15th of May, and again from the 15th of Au- 
gust to the 15tb of October; the balance of the 
year is appropriated to hunting. They cultivate 
;;orn, &c. 



OTTOES, 

They have no idea of an exclusive possession 
of any country ; nor do they af sign themselves any 
limits, I do not believe that twy would object to 
the introduction of any well disposed Indians ; they 
treat the traders with respect aud iio^^pitality, gen- 



140 STATISTICAL VIEW. 

# 

erally. In tlieir occupations of hunting and culti- 
vation, they are the same witli the Kansas and Os- 
a.i^e. Tliey hunt on the Saline and ]S'iinmeha\v 
rivers, and west of tliem in the plains. The coun- 
try in which they hunt lies well; it is extremely 
fertile and well watered ; that part of it wliieh bov- 
ders on JNimmeliaw" and Missouii possesses a good 
portion of timber ; population rather increasing. 
They have always resided near the place tlteir vil- 
Ligc is situated, and arc tlic dcscendauts of the 
Missouris. 



MISSOURIS. 

These are the remnant of the most numerous 
nadon inhabiting tlie M]feSf)ni'i, wlicn th'st known 
to the French. Th< ir ancient ar^d principal village 
was situated in an extensive and fertile plain, on 
the north bank of the Missouri, just below the en- 
^raiiGe of the Grand rivej*. R? plated attacks of the 

iiiail-pox, together with their war with the Sau- 
kees and Renards, has reduced them to their pre- 
sent state of dependence on the Ottoes, with whom 
they reside, as well in their village, as on their 
hunt ing excursions. The Ottoes view them as their 
inferiors, and sometimes treat them amiss. These 
people are the I'cal proprietors of an extensive and 

• rtile country lying on the Missouri, above their 
ancient village for a considerable distance, and as 
low rv3 the mouth of the Osage river, and thence to 
'he Misei<^..sippi. 



PANIAg, 




STATISTiCAL VIEW. i^l 

with groves of timber, which arc most .generally 
found in the vicinity of the wiitei'-courses. It is 
generally fertile and Veil watered; lies level, and 
li'ee of stone. They have resided in the country 
which they now inhabit, since they were known to 
the whites. Their trade is a valuable one, from 
the large proportion of beaver and ottei* which they 
furnish ; and it may be expected yet to increase, as 
those animals are still abundant in their country. 
The periods of their residence at their village and 
hunting, are similar to the Kansas and Osages. 
Their population is increasijig. They are friendly 
and hospitable to all white persons ; pay great re- 
spect and deference to their traders, witii whom 
they are punctual in ti>e payment of their debts. 
They are, in ail respects, a friendly, well disposed 
people. They cultivate corn, beans, melons, ^c. 



PANIAS REPUBLICANS. 

Are a branch of tlie Pania Pr )per, or, as they 
are frequently termed, the i?ig Paunch, About ten 
years since they withdrew themselves from the mo- 
ther nation, and established a village on a large 
northwardly brancli of the Kansas, to which tliey 
have given name ; they afterwards subdivided and 
lived in different parts'^ of the country on the waters 
of Kansas river ; biit being harassed by their tur- 
bulent neighbours, the Kansas, ihvy r i<)ined the 
Panias Proper last spring. Wimt has been said 
with respect to iha^ Panias Proper is applicable on 
the Republican river, whic'i is better stocked with 
timber than that hunted by the Panias. 



PANAIS LOUPS OR W OLVES. 

These are also a hranch of the Panais Pro- 
per, who have separated themselves #om hat 
Tiation wany years since, and established thcm- 
M 2 



# 



i.v^ STATISTICAL -VIEW. 



selves oil a north branch of the rivier Platte, to 
wiiich their name was also given ; these people 
have likewise no idea of an exclusive riejht to any 
portion of tliat country. They hunt on the Wolf 
river above their village, and on the river Platte 
above the nioutii of that river. This country is 
very similai* to that of the river Panais Proper, 
thoug]^ there is an extensive body of fertile well 
timbered laud between tlie Wolf river below tlieir 
village and the river Corn de Cerf, or Elkhorn 
river. Tiiey cultivate corn, beans, ^c. The par- 
ticulars ichited of the other Panais are also appli- 
cable to them. They are seldom visited by any 
trader, and therefore usually bring their furs and 
peltry to the village of the Panais Proper, where 
thev traffic with the whites. 



MAHAS. 

They ha\ e no idea of exclusive possession of 
soil. About ton years since, they boasted of 
seven hundred warriors. They have lived in a 
village, on tlie west bank of the Missouri, two 
hundred and thirty-six miles above the mouth of 
the river Phit^, wlierethey cultivated corn, beans, 
and melons : tliey were warlike, and the terror of 
iheir neighbours. In the summer and autumn of 
ISU2, they were visited by the small-pox, which 
reduced their numbers to something less than three 
hundred j they burnt their village, and have be- 
come a wandering nation, deserted by the traders, 
and the consequent deficiency of arms and ammu- 
nition has invited frequent agressions from their 
neighbours, which have tended to reduce them still 
furtlier. They rove principally on tlie waters of 
the river Quicurre, or Rapid river. The country 
is generally Itvel, high, and open ; it is fertile and 
tolerably well watered. They might easily be in- 
duced t^Jlicome stationary ; they are well disposed 
towardsjthe whites, and are good hunters 5 their 



STATISTICAL VIEW, l^ 

country abounds in beaver and otter, and their 
trade will increase and become valuable, provided 
tliey become stationary and are at peace. The 
Tetons Bois Brule killed and took about sixty of 
them last summer. 



PONCARS. 

The remnant of a nation once respectable in 
point of numbers. They formerly resided on a 
branch of t!ie Red river of lake Winnipic ; bein,!^ 
oppressed by the Sioux, they removed to the west 
side of the Missouri, on Poncar river, where they 
built and fortified a village, and remained some 
years : but being pursued by their ancient enemies 
the Sioux, and reduced by continual wars, tliey 
have joined and now reside witli the Mahas, whose 
language they speak. 



RICARAS. 

Are the remains of ten large tribes of Panias, 
who have been reduced by the small-pox and the 
Sioux to the present number. They live in forti- 
fied villages, and liunt immediately in their neigh- 
bourhood. The country around them, in every 
direction for several hundred miles, is entirely 
bare of timber^ except on the water courses and 
steep declivities of hills, where it is sheltered from 
the ravages of fire. The land is tolerably well 
watered, and lies well for cultivation. The re- 
mains of the villages of these people are to be 
seen on many parts of the Missouri, from the 
mouth of Tetone river to the Mandans. They 
claim no land except that on which their villages 
stand, and the fields which they cultivate. The 
Tetons claim the country around them.^TJiey are 
the oldest inhabitants, and may properl^e called 
the farmers or tenants at xviU of that lawless; sa- 



#4 STATISTICAL VIEW. 

vaae and mpacious race, the Sioux Teton, who 
rob them of their liorses, plunder their gardens 
and fields, and sometimes murder them without 
opposition. if these people were freed irom the 
oppression of the Tetons, their trade would in- 
crease rappidly, and might he extended to aeon- 
siderahle amount. They maintain a partial trade 
with their oppressors, the Tetons, to whom they 
barter horses, mules, corn, beans, and a specie 
of tobacco, which they cultivate ; and receive m 
return guns, ammunition, kettles, axes, and other 
articles which the Tetons obtain from the \ anktons 
of tJie North, and Sissatones, who trade with Mr. 
Cameron, on the river St. Peters. These horses 
and mules the Ricaras obtain Irom their western 
neighbours, who visit them frequently for the pur- 
pose of trafficking. 

MANDANS. 

These are the most friendly, well disposed 
Indians inhabiting the Missouri. They are brave, 
humane, and hospitable. About twenty-hye years 
since they lived in six villages, about forty miles 
below their present villages, on both sides of the 
Missouri. Repeated visitations of the small-pox, 
aided by frequent attacks of the Sioux, have re- 
duced them to their present number. Ihey claim 
no particular tract of country. T^jey ive m for- 
tified villages, hunt immediately m their neigii- 
bourhood, and cultivate corn, ^^j^f ' ^^"^^J^f ^;,^^'.f. 
tobacco, which form articles of traffic with their 
neLhbours the Assiniboins : they also barter 
hoSes with Assinniboins for arms, ammmiition, 
axes, kettles and other articles of Europeah man- 
ufacture, which these last obtain from the British 
establishments on the Assinnibom river. / he ai - 
tides wmh thev thus obtain from the Assinm- 
bo ns, alfthe British traders who visit the.^ they 
again exchange for horses and leather tents witti 



STATISTICAL YIEW. ii5a 

the Cruv/ Indians, Chy^nncs, Wetepahatoes, Kia- 
was, Kancnavidi, Stactaii, and Cataka, who visit 
*.hem occasionally tor the purpose of traffic. Their 
-radc may be much increased Their country is si- 
niilar to tliat of tlie Ricaras, Population increasing^, 

AHWAHHAWAY. 

TiiEY difter hut very little, iji any particular, 
itom the Mandans, their neiglibours, except in the 
^injiist war which they, as well as the Minetares, 
prosecute against the defenceless Snake Indians, 
irom which, I believe, it will be di^cult to induce 
them to desist. They claim to Iiave once been a 
part of the Crow Indians, whom they still acknow- 
ledge as relations. They have resided on the Mis^ 
sonri as lorig as their tradition v/ili enable them to 
Anform. 



MIINETARES. 

TiiEY claim no particular country, nor do thev 
assign tiiemselves any limits : their tradition re*- 
iates that they have always resided at their present 
villages. In their customs, manners, and disposi- 
tions, they are similar to the Mandans and Ahwah- 
haways. The scarcity of fuel induces them to re- 
side, during the cold season, in lara:e bands, in 
camps, on difterent parts of the Missouri, as high 
ap that river as the mouth of the river Yellow 
Stone, and west of their villages, about the Turtle 
mountain. I believe tiiat these people, as well as 
the Mandans and Aliwahhawavs, might be prevail- 
ed on to remove to the mouth of \ eilow Stone river, 
provided an establishment is made at that place, 
liiey have as yet fiu-nishcd scarcely any beaver, 
although the country they hunt abounds w^hthem^ 
the lodges of these animals are to be seen witiiin a 
mile of their villager. These people have also suf 



#146 STATISTICAL VIEW. 

fered considerably by tbc&inall-pox ; but bave s«c 
cessfully resisted tbe attack of tiie Sioux. Tbe 
iiortb west company intend to foi'm an establish- 
ment in the course ot* tbe next summer, and autumn, 
on tbe Missouri near these people, which, if eliect- 
ed, will most probably prevent thMr removal to any 
point, which our government may hereafter wish 
't.bem to reside at. 



SAURIES AND RENARDS, OR FOXES. 

These nations are so perfectly consolidated, 
tiiJit they may, in fact, be considered as one nation 
only. They' speak the same language; they for- 
merly resided on the east side of the Mississippi, 
and still claim the land on that side of the river, 
from the mouth of the Gisconsin to the Illinois ri- 
ver, and eastward toward lake Michigan ; but to 
what particular boundary, I am not informed ; they 
also claim, by conquest, tbe whole of the country 
belonging to the ancient Missouris, which forms one 
of the most valuable portions of Louisiana, but 
what proportion of this territory they are willing 
to assign to the Ayouways, who also claim a part 
of it, I do not know, as they are at war with the 
Sionx, who live north and north west of them, ex- 
cept the Yankton Ahnah. Their boundaries in 
that quarter are also undefined : their trade would 
become much more valuable if peace was establish- 
ed between them and the nations west of the Mis- 
souri, witii whom they are at war ; tbe population 
has remained nearly the same for many years ; 
they raise an abundance of corn, beans, and me- 
lons ; they sometimes hunt in the country west of 
them, towards the MisBouri; but their principal 
hunting is on both sides of the Mississippi, from tiie 
mouth of trie Gisconsin to the mouth of the Illinois 
river. TPhese people arc extremely friendly to the 
w^hitcs, and seldom injure their traders ; but they 
are the most implacable enemies to the Indian na- 



STATISTICAL VIEW, tir 

tioiis with \vliom they ai-e at war. To them is 
justly attributable the almost entire destriiclitiii of 
tiie Missouris, the Illinois, Cahokias, Kaskankias, 
and Piorias. 



WAHPATONE 

Claim tha country in whiah they rove on the 
north west side of the river 8t. Peters, fi-om their 
villa.^c to the mouth of the Chippeway river, and 
thence north eastvvardly towards the head of the 
Mississippi, includin^i^the Crow-win,^- river. Their 
lands are fertile and .^erscrally well tij)a)ered. They 
are only stationary while their traders are witli 
tlieni, VvhicJi is from the bcginnin.^ of October to 
the last of March. Tiunr trade is sm)j>osed to be 
at its greatest extent. Tlicy treat their traders 
with respect, and seldom attempt to rob them. 
This, as well as other Sioux banils, acts, in all re- 
spects, as indepcndeniiy of each othcj- as if they 
were a distinct nation. 

MINDAWARC IRTO^. 

Tiii.s is the only hand of Sioux that cultivates 
^orn^ beans, ke, ; and these even cannot properly 
be termed a stationary people. Thev live in tents 
of dressed leatiier, v/hich they transport by means 
of horses and dogs, and ramble from place to place 
during the greater part of the year. They are 
friendly to their traders ; but the inveterate enemies 
to sucli as supply their enemies, tiie Chippeways, 
with merchandise. They also claim the Country in 
which they hunt, commencing at the entrance of the 
river St. Peters, and extending upwards, on both 
sides of the Mississippi river, to the mouth of the 
Grow river. The land is fertile and well watered ; 
lies level and sufficiently timbered. Their trade 
eannat be expected to increase much. 



m 
l%8 STATISTICAL VIEW. 

WAHPACOOTA. 

ThijI ro-v c in the country south-west of the river 
St. Peters, from a phice called the HardwoocU to the 
mouth of t!ic \ ellow Medicine river : never sta- 
tionary but \\hj:n their traders are with them ; and 
this d'jcs not happen at any reg'ular or fixed point. 
\t present they treat their tr:iders t<derahly well. 
Their trade cannot he expected to increase much. 
A great proportion of their country is open plains, 
fies IcA el, and is tolerably fertile. They maintain 
a partial tralhc with the Yantons and Tetons to the 
west of lliem. To tljcsc they barter the articles 
which tiiey obtain ironi the traders on the river St. 
Peters, and receive iji return horses, some robes 
aiid leather lodges. 



SISSATONE. 

They elaim tlie country in which they rove, 
embraeiiiii,' tlie upper portions of the Red river, of 
lake Winnipie, and St. Peters : it is a level country, 
iJitersected with many small lakes ; the land is feV- 
lilc and free of stone ; tiie majority of it open 
plains. This country abounds more in the valua- 
ble fur animals, the beaver, ottci*, and martin, than 
any portion of Louisiana yet known. This circum- 
stance furnishes tlic Sissatones with the means of 
piii'chasin.a; more merchandise, in proportion to 
their number, than any nation in this quarter. A 
;gTeat proportion of this merchandise is reserved 
by them for their trade with the Tetons, whom 
they annuaHy meet at some point previously agreed 
on,* upon the waters of James river, in the month 
of May. This Indian fair is frequently attended 
by the Yanktons of the north and Ahnah. I'he 
Sissatones and Yanktons of the north here supply 
the others with considerable quantities of aims, 
ammunition, axes, knives, kettles, cloth, and a va* 



STATISTICAL VIEW, x6t 

\')«tv of other articles ; and receive in return prin- 
cipally horses, wliich the others have stolen or pur- 
chased from the nations on tlie Missouri, and west 
of it. They are devoted to the interests of their 
traders. 



YANfLTONS OF THE NORTH. 

This baud, although they purchase a smaller 
quantity of merchandise than the Sissatones, vstill 
apj)ropriate a considerable proportion of what they 
do obtain in asimilar manner with that mentioned of 
the Sissatones. This trade, as small as it may ap- 
pear, has been suihcient to render the Tetons inde- 
pendent of the trade of the Missouri, in a great 
measure, and has furnislied them with the means, 
not only of distressing and plundering the traders 
of the Missouri, but also, of plundering and massa-- 
creing the defenceless savages of the Missouri, 
from the mouth of the river Platte to the Minetares, 
and west to the Rocky mountains. The country 
these people inliabit is almost one entire plain, un- 
covered with timber ; it is extremely level ; the soil 
fertile, and generally well watered. 

YANK IONS AHNAH. 

These are the best disposed Sioux who rore on 
ihc banks of the Missouri, and these even will not 
suffer any trader to ascend the river, if they can 
possiblv avoid it : they have, heretofore, invariably 
arrcste"d the progress of all those they have met 
with, and generally compelled them to trade at the 
prices, nearly, which they themselves think proper 
to fix on their merchandise : they seldom commit 
any further acts of violence on the whites. They 
sometimes visit the river Demoin, where a partial 
trade has been carried on with them, for a few years 
past, by. a Mr. Crawford. Theii- trade, if woU re- 
N 



lot STATISTICAL VIEW. 

gulated might be rendered extremely valuable. 
'1 heir coiintiy is a very fertile one; it consists of a 
mixture of wood lands and j)rairies. The land 
bordering on the Missouri is principally plains with 
but little tiinber. 



Tetons Bois Bndc — ,Tetons Okandavdas Tetons 

Mimiakineazxo, — Tetons Salione^ 

Tiirtii: iirc tiic \iie.st miscreants of the savage 
race, and must q\qv remain tiie pirates of the Mis- 
souri, until sucli measures are pursued, byour^^ov- 
crnni' iit, as will make tiiem feel a dependence on 
its \s ill for their supply of merchandise. Unless 
tiicse peopic are reduced to order, by coercive mea- 
sures, 1 am ready to pronounce thai the citizens of 
the United States can never enjoy but partially the 
advantages v»hich the ^Missouri presents. Relying 
on a regular supply of merclmndise, through the 
channel of tlie river St. Peters, tliey view with 
contempt tlic merchants of the Missouri, whom 
they never fail to plunder, wlien in tlieir power. 
l\n"suation or advice, with them is viewed as sup- 
plication, and only tends to inspire them with con- 
lem])t for tliose who oiTer either. The tameness 
with Vv rich tise ti'aders of the Missouri have here- 
t jlore submitted to tlieir i-apacity. has tended not a 
little to inspire them v>'ith ' co]itempt for the white 
persons who visit them tjirough that channel. A 
prevalent idea among tliem, and one which they 
iiiake the rr.le of tlieir conduct, is, that the more ill 
they treat the traders, the greater quantity of mer- 
chimdise they will bring them, and that they will 
tl us obtain the articles they wish on better terms. 
They have endeavoured- to inspire the Ricaras with 
similar sentiments, but, happily, without any eon- 
aideriible effect. The country m which these four 
bands rove is one continued plain, with scarcely a 
tree to be seen, except on the water-conrses, or "the 
steep declivities of hills, wliicli last are but rare : 



STATISTICAL VIEW. 15:. 



a 



the land is fertile, aiul lies extremely well for culti- 
vation ; many parts of it are but badly watered. 
It is from this country that the Missouri derives 
most of its colourinj^' matter j tiic earth is strongly 
impregnated with giauber salts, aiiim, copperas 
and siilphiir, and when saturated with watei*, im- 
mense bodies of tlie hills precipitate themselves 
into the Missouri, and min,^le with its waters. 
The waters of this river has a purgative effect on 
those unaccustomed to use it. I doubt whether 
these people can ever be induced to become station- 
ary. Their trade mit^ht be made valuable if they 
were reduced to order. They claim, jointly with 
the other band of the Sioux, all the country 
lying within the following limits, viz. beginning at 
the confluence of the Demoin and Mississippi, 
thence up the West side of tJie Mississippi to the 
mouth of the St. Peters river, thence on both sides 
of the Mississippi to the mouth of Ci*ow-wing ri- 
ver, and upwards with that stream, including the 
waters of the upper part of the same : the^ice to in- 
clude the waters of the upper portion of Red ri- 
ver, of lake Winnipie, and down the same nearly 
to Pembenar river, thence a south-westerly course 
to intersect the Missouri at or near the Mandans, 
and with that stream downwards to the entrance of 
the Warrecunne creek, thence passing the Missouri 
it goes to include the lower poi'tion of the river 
Chyenne, all the waters of White river and river 
Teton, includes the lower portion of the river Qui- 
curre, and returns to the Missouri, and with that 
stream downwards to the mouth of Wappidon river, 
and thence eastwardly to intersect the Mississippi 
at the beginning. 



CHYENNE S, 

They are the remnant of a nation once respect- 
aWe in point of number : formerly resided on « 
branch of the Red river of Lake Winnipie, whiel? 



15i STATISTICAL YIEAV. 

still bears their name. Beini^- oppressed by the 
Sioux, they removed to the west side of the Missouri, 
about fifteen miles heh)w tlie luouth of Vt arreeunnc 
creek, wliere they built and foitilied a village, but 
bein.a; pursued by their ancient enemies the Sioux, 
they lied to the Black-hills, about the liead of the 
Chyenne river, where they wander in quest of the 
buftalo, having no fixed residence. They do not 
cultivate. They are well disposed tov/ards the 
whites, and might easily be induced to settle on the 
Missouri, if they could be assured of being pro- 
tected from the Sioux. Their number annually 
diminishes. Their trade may be made valuable. 



WETEPAHATOES, 

They are a wandering nation, inhabit an open 
country, and raise a great number of horses w hich 
they barter to the Ricaras, Mandans, kc. for arti- 
cles of European manufacture. They are a well 
disposed people, and might be readily induced to 
visit the trading establislin.ents on the Missouri. 
From the animals their country produces, their 
trade would, no doubt, become valuable. These 
people again barter a consiberable proportion of 
the articles they obtain from the Menetares, Ah» 
w ahhdways, Mandaris, and Ricaras, to the Dotames 
?»nd Castapanus, 



DOTAMES. 

The information 1 possess, with respect to tins 
nation, is derived from Indian information : they 
are said to be a wandering luation, inhabiting an 
open country, aiul wlio raise a great number of 
horses and mules. They are a friendly, well dis- 
posed people, and might, from the position of their 
country, be easily induced to visit an establishmcHt 



STATISTICAL VIEW, 15^ 

on the Missouri, about the mouth of Chyenne 
river. They have not, as yet, visited the Mis- 
souri. 



CASTAHANA. 

What has been said of the Dotames is applica- 
ble to these people, except that tliey trade princi- 
pally with the Crow Indians, and that they would 
most probably prefer visiting- an establishment on 
the Yellow Stone river, or at its mouth on the Mis- 
souri. 



CROW INDIANS. 

These people are divided into four bands, call- 
ed by themselves Ahah-ar-ro-pir-no-pah, Noo-taa, 
Pa-rees-car, and E-hart-sar. They annually visit 
the Mandans, Menetares, and Ahwalihaways, to 
whom they barter horses, mnles, leather lodges, and 
many articles of Indian apparel, for which tliey 
receive in return, guns, ammunition, axes, kettles, 
awls, and other European manufactures. When 
they return to their country, they are in turn visit- 
ed by the Paunch and Snake Indians, to whom they 
barter most of the articles they have obtained from 
the nations on the Missouri, for horses and mules, 
of which those nations have a greater abundance 
than themselves. They also obtain of tlie Snake 
Indians, bridle-bits, and blankets, and some other 
articles which those Indians purchase from tlie Spa- 
niards. The bridle-bits and blankets I have seen 
in the possession of the Mandans and Menetares. 
Their country is fertile, and well vftic^fd. and in 
most parts well timbered. 

N % 



i.^6 STATISTICAL VIEW. 



PAUNCH INDIANS. 



These are said to be a peaceable, well disposed 
nation. Their country is a variegated one, con- 
sisting of mountains, valleys, plains, and wood- 
lands, irregularly interspersed. They might be 
induced to visit the Missouri, at the mouth of the 
Yellowstone I'iver; and from the great abundance 
of valuable furi'ed animals, which their country, as 
well as that of the Crow Indians, pi'oduces, their 
trade must become extremely valuable. They are 
a roving people, and have* no idea of exclusive 
Tight to the soil. 



M. JIancfopa,"^Os€egaL — Mah tojianatOr 

Are the descendants of the Sioux, and partake 
«»{' their turbulent and faithless disposition : they 
IVcquently plunder, and sometimes murder their 
own traders. The name by which this nation is 
generally known was borrowed from the Chippe- 
ways, who call them Jlsslnniboan, which literally 
'i'anslated, is Stone Sioux, hence the name of Stone 
Indians, by which they are sometimes called. The 
lountry in w Jiich they rove is almost entirely un- 
covered with timber; lies extremely level ; and is 
but badly watered in many parts ; the land, how- 
ever, is tolerable fertile and unincumbered with 
stone. They miglit be induced to trade at tlie river 
Yellowstone; but I do not think that their trade 
promises much. Their numbers continue about 
The same. These bands, like tlie Sioux, act en- 
tirely independent of each other, although they 
daim a national affinity, and never make war on 
each other. The country inhabited by the Mahto- 
panato possesses rather more timber than the other 
parts of the country. They do not cultivate. 



STATISTICAL VIEW. i^' 



CHIPPEWAYS, OF LEACH LAKE. 

Claim tlie country on both sides of the Missis 
sippi, from the mouth of the Crow win,^ river to. its 
source, and extending west of the Mississippi to the 
lands claimed by the Sioux, with whom they con- 
tend for dominion. They claim, also, east of the 
Mississippi, the country extending as far as lake 
Superior, including the waters of the St. Louis. 
Tbis country is thickly covered with timber gene- 
rally; lies level, and generally fertile, though a 
considerable proportion of it is intersected and 
broken up by small lakes, morasses and small 
swamps, particularly about the heads of the Mis- 
sissippi and river St. Louis. They do not cultivate, 
but live principally on the wild rice, which they pro- 
cure in great abundance on the borders of Leach 
Lake and the banks of the Mississippi. Their 
number has been considerably reduced by wars and 
the small-pox. Their trade is at its greatest ex- 
tent. 

CHIPPEWAYS OF RED LAKE. 

Claim the country about Red lake and Red ^ake 
river, as far as the Red river of lak^' Winnipi b - 
yond which last river they contend with the Sioux 
for territory. This is a low Icvd country, and 
generally thickly covered with timber, interr ipted 
with many swanips and morasses. Tliis, as well as 
the other bands of Chippeways, are esteemed 
the best hunters in the north west country j 
but from the long residence of this 5)arl in thecaun- 
try they now inhabit, game is "beoming scarce; 
therefore, their trad*^ is sapposed to be at its great- 
est extent. The Cbipj>eways are a well disposed 
people^, but excessively fond of spirituous liquor. 



158 STATISTICAL \IES\. 

OF RIYER PEMBENA. 

These people formerly resided on the east side 
of tiie Mississippi, at Sand lake, but ,were induced, 
by The north west company, to remove, about two 
years since, to the river Pembena. They do not 
claim the lands on which they liunt. The country 
is level and the soil good. The west side of the river 
is principally prairies or open plains; on the east 
side there is a greater proportion of timber. Their 
trade at present is a very valuable one, and will pro- 
bably irscrcase for some years. They do not culti- 
vate^but live by hunting. They are well disposed 
towards the whites. 

ALGONQUINS OF RAINY LAKE. 

AYiTH the precise limits of Ci>untry they claim, 
I am not informed. They live very mlicli detached, 
in small parties. The country they iiiliabit is but 
an indifferent one ; it has been much hunted, and 
t])e gr.me of course nearly exhausted. They are 
well disposed towards tlie whites. Their number 
is said to decrease. They are extronely addicted 
to spirituous liquor, of which large quantities are 
annually funiislied them ]iy the North West traders, 
in return for their bark canoes. Thoy live wi^etch- 
cdly poor. 

OF PORTAGE DE PRAIRIE. 

These people inhabit a low flat, marshy coun- 
try, mostly covered with timber and well stocked 
\v ith game. They are emigrants from the lake of 
the Woods and the country east of it, who were in- 
troduced, some years since, bv the North West 
traders in order to hunt the c^> ntry on the lower 
parts of Red river, which then abounded in a variety 



STATISTICAL VIEW. • 150 

of animals of the fur kind. They are an orderly, 
well disposed people, but like their relations ©n 
Rainy lake, addicted to spirituous liquors. Their 
trade is at its gTcatest extent. 



CHRITENOES. 

They are a wandering nation ; do not cultivate, 
nor claim any particular tract of country. They 
are well disposed towards the whites, and treat 
their traders with respect. The country in which 
tliey rove is j^'cnerally open plains, but in some 
parts, particularly about the head of the Assinni- 
boin river, it is marshy and tolerable well fuiTiishcd 
with timber, as are also the Fort Daupliin mountains, 
to which they sometimes resort. From the quantity 
of beaver in their country, they ought to furnish 
more of that article than they do at present. They 
are not esteemed good beaver hunters. They 
might, probably be induced to visit an establish- 
ment on the Missouri, at the Yellow Stone river. 
Their number has been reduced by the smali-pox, 
since they were first known to the Canadians. 



ALIATONS SNAKE INDIANS 

These are a numerous and well disposed peo» 
pie, inhabiting a woody and mountainous country; 
they are divided into three large tribes, who wan- 
der at a considerable distance irom each otiier, and 
are called by themselves So-so-na, So-so'bubar, and 
La-kar. These are again sub-divided into smaller 
though independent bands, the names -^F which I 
have not yet learnt ,• they raise a nuaibe-'af horses 
and mules, which they trade with the Crow Indi- 
ans, or are stolen by the nations to the east of them. 
They maintain a partial trade with the Spaniards, 
from whom they obtain many articles of clothing 
and ironmongery, but no warlike implem»nt«. 



160 STATISTICAL VIEW. 

OF THE WEST. 

These people also inhabit a moiintainoiis coun- 
try^ and sometinics venture in the plainB oust of the 
Rocky mountains, about the head of the Arkansas 
river. Tliev have no more intercourse with tlie 
Spaniards of Kcw Mexico, than tlic Snake Indians, 
lliey ai'e said to be vei'v numerous and warlike, 
but arc badly armed, l^he Spaniards fear these 
people, and therefore take the precaution not to 
lurnish tliem with any warlike implements. In 
their present unarmed state, they frequently com- 
mit hostilities on the Spaniards. They raise a great 
many horses. 



LA PLAYES. 

They inhabit the rich plains, from the head of 
the Arkansas, embracing the heads of Red river, 
and extending with the mountains and high lands 
eastwardly as far as is known towards tlie gulf of 
Mexico. They possess no fire arms, but are war 
like and brave. They are as well as the other Alia- 
tans, a w andering people. Their country abounds 
in wild horses, beside great numbers which they 
raise themselves. These people, and the West 
Aliatans, miglit be induced to trade with us on the 
upper part of the Arkansas river. I do not believe 
that any of the Aliatans claim a country within any 
particular limits. 



PANIA PIQUE. 

These people have no intercourse with the in- 
habitants of the Illinois ; the information, therefore, 
which I have been enabled to obtain with respect to 
them, is very imperfect. They were formerly 
known by the name of tlie White Panias, and are 



STATISTICAL VIEW. 161 

of the same family witli the Panias of the river 
Platte. They are said to be a well disposed peo- 
ple, and inhabit a very fertile country 5 certain it 
is, that they enjoy a delightful climate. 



PADUCAS. 

This once powerful nation lias, apparently en- 
tirely disappeared ; every inquiry I have made af- 
ter them has proved ineffectual. ' In the year 1724, 
they resided in several villages on tlic head of the 
Kansas river, and could, at tliat time, bring up- 
wards of two thousand men into the field. (See 
Monsieur Dupratz History of Louisiana, page 71, 
and the Map attached to that work.) The informa- 
tion that I have received is, that being oppressed by 
the nations residing on the Missouri, they removed 
to the upper part of the river Platte, where they af- 
terwards had but little intercourse with the whites. 
They seem to have given name to the northern 
branch of the river, which is still called tlie Paducas 
Fork. The most probable conjecture is, tliat be- 
ing still further reduced, they have divided into 
small wandering bands, which assumed the names 
of the sub-divisions of the Paducas nation, and are 
known to us at present under the a])])eliation of 
AVetepahatocs, Kiavras, Kanenavish, Katteka, Do- 
tame, &c. who still inliabit the country to which the 
i*aducas are said to have removed. Tiie majority 
of my information led me to believe, that those peo- 
ple spoke different languages, but other and subset 
quent information has induced me to 4oubt the 
fact. 

CEnd of the Statistical view.) 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES 

OF THE SEVERAL 

i.yj)M^* TRIBES Ly LOUISIAJ^.l, 

SOUTH OF THE 

ARKANSAS RIVER, 

AND BETWEEN 

THE MISSISSIPPI AA'-D RIVER GRJJ^V. 

CADDOQUES. 

They Uve about thirty-five miles west of t^« 
main branch of Red river, on a bayou or ci-eek called 
by them Sodo, which is navigable for peroques only 
within about six miles of their village, and that only 
in the rainy season. They are distant from Natchi- 
toches about one hundred and twenty miles, the 
nearest route by land, and in n^^arly a north west 
direction. They have lived wAere they now do only 
five years. The fii-st year they moved there, the 
small-pox got amongst t^em and destroyed nearly 
one half of them; it was in the winter season, and 
tliey practised plunging into the creek on the first 
appearance of th*' eruption, and died in a few hours. 
Two years age they had the measles, of whicli seve- 
ral more of «iem died. They formerly lived on the 
aoiithbanJ^ of the river, by the coui'se of the river 
tliree h <n'lred und seventh -five miles higher up, at 
a beautiful prairie, which has a clear lake of good 
water in the middle of it, surrounded by a pleasant 
andftrtile country, which had been the residence of 
th«Mr anc \st >rs fr'>ni time im nem )rial, 

Th'-y I'wv^' a traditionary tale which not only the 
Caddys, b it half a d j-zen other small t nati ns be- 
lieve in, who claim th ^ honour of being dcsccadants 
O 



idi HISTORICAL SKETCHES 

of the same fisiiiily ^ they say, when all theworid 
was dii>wiii=d by a liood that inundated the whole 
ctJuntrv , the^ great Spirit placed on an eminence near 
this laki>, one family of Caddoques, who alone were 
saved ; irom that family all the Indians originated. 
1'he Trench, tor many years before Louisiana 
was transferred to Spain, had, at this place, a fort 
and some soldiers ; several French families vverc 
likewise settled in the vicinity, where they had erec- 
ted a good flour mill with burr stones brought from 
France, Tliese French families continued tliere till 
about twenty-fjve yeais i-.go, when they moved 
down aiui setUed at Campti, on tlie Rcdtiver, above 
Natchitoches, where they now live ; and the Indians 
left it about fourteen years ago, on account of a 
dreadful sickness that >ifeited them. They settled 
on the river nearly opposite, where they now live, 
on a low place, but w ere driven t4ience on account of 
its overiiowing, occasioned by a jam of timber 
choking the river at a point beloV them. 

The wliole number of what they call warriors of 
the ancient Caddo nation, is now reduced to about 
one hujidred, who are looked upon somewhat like 
knights of Malta, or some distinguished military 
order. They are brave, despise danger of death, 
and boast that they ^avc never shed wliitc man's 
blood. Besides these, \here are of old men and 
strangers who live among ^hem, nearly the same 
number; but there are forty ^v fifty more women 
than men. This nation has grt^at influence over 
the Yattassees, Nandakoes, Naba€iaches, Inies or 
Yachies, Nagogdoches, Keycchies, \daize and 
Yatchitoches, who all speak the Caddo language^ 
look up to tliem as their fathers; visit and intti»marry 
among them, and join them in all tlieir wars. 

The Cadoquescom plain of the Chactaws en- 
croaching upon their country; call them lazy, 
thievish, kc. There has been a misunderstanding 
between them for several years, and small hunting 
parties kill 0!}C another when they meet. 



HISTORICAL STCETCIIES. 165 

The Caddocs raise corn, beans, pumpkins, &c. ; 
hut th;^ land on whicli thcj now live is aprairie, ot a 
white tlav soil, very fiat; tlieir crops are subject to 
injury, either by too wot or too dry a seas .n. 1 hey 
have 'horses, but few of any other domestic ani- 
mals, except dogs ; most of them have guns, an(| 
some have riiies ; they, and all dther Indians tliat 
we have any knowledge of, are at war wita tno 

Osasjes. >-, , , -^ 

The country, generally, round tlie Caddoes i^ 
hiiiv, not verv ricn ; grov^th in mixture of oak, 
hickorv, and'^pine, in erspersed with praines, 
which 'are very rich generally, and fit for cuUiva- 
tion. There are creeks and springs of good water 
frequent. 

YATTASSEES. 

They live on Bavou Pierre, (or Stony creek) 
which falls into Red river, western division, about 
fifty miles above Natchitoches. Their village is m 
a large prairie ab*ut iialf way between the Caddo- 
qmn and JMatchitoches surrounded by a settlement 
of French families. The Spanish government at 
present exercise jurisdiction over this settlement, 
where they keep a guard of a n:.n-commissionca 
ofiicer and eight soldiers ^ .^i x- 

A few months ago, the Caddo cliief with a tew 
of his young men were coming to this place to trade, 
and came by that way which is the usual road, 
The Spanish officer of the guard tijreatcnedto stoij 
them from trading with the Americans, and told 
the e]ii.n^ if he returned that way with tlie goods he 
should take tliem from him ; the cliief and his party 
were angry, and threatened to kill the whole guard, 
and lold tiiem that road had been al:vays theirs and 
that if the Spaniards attempted to prevent their 
using it as tlieir ancestors had always done, he 
would soon make it a bloody road. He came here, 
]5uvehased the goods he wanted, and might have 



IG6 HISTORICAL SKETCHES, 

returned another way and avoided the Spanist 
guard, and ^Yas advised to do so ; but he siiid he 
would pass by them, ajid let tliem attempt to stop 
him if they dared.. The guard said nothing to him 
as he returned. 

This settlement, till sr^me few years ago, used to 
bf^org to tlie district of Natchitoches, and the 
rights to their hinds werr given by tlie government 
of Louisiana, before it was ceded to Spain, It's 
now being under the gcvernment of Tax us, was 
only an agreement between tlie commandant of 
Katchitoches and the commandant of Nagogdoches. 
The French formerly had a station and factory 
there, and another on the Sabine river, nt ttrly one 
hundred miles nortli-wcst from the Eavou Pierre 
si4tlement. The Yattassees now say, ti)?.- trench 
used to be their people, and now the Americans. 

But of the ancient Yattassecs there are but eight 
men remaining, and twenty-five women, besides 
ciiildren ; but a number of men of other nations 
have intermarried with them and live together. I 
paid a visit at their village last summer; there 
were about forty men of them altogether : their ori- 
ghnil language differs fi*om any other; but now, 
all speak Caddo. They live on rich land, raise 
plenty of corn, beans, bumpkins, tobacco^ &c. have 
horses, cattle, hogs and poultry. 



NAKDAKOES. 

TiiEY live w the Sabine Hver, sixty or seventy 
miles to the westwaid of Yattassees, near where 
the French formerly had a station and factory^ 
Their language is Caddo: about ten men only of 
tliem remaining. A few years ago they suffered 
very much by the small-pox. They consider them- 
selves the same as Caddoes, with whom they inter- 
marry, and are occasionally, visiting one another 
in the greatest harmony : have the same manners, 
eujstoms and attachments. 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 16: 



ADAIZE. 

They live about forty miles from NatcIiitocJies, 
below the Yattassees, on a lake called Lac Macdon, 
which communicates with the division of Red river 
that passes by Bayou Pierre. They live at or near 
where their ancestors have lived from time imme- 
morial. They being the neai-est nation to the old 
Spanish foi-t, or Mission of Adaize, that place was 
named after them, being about twenty miles from 
them, to the south. There are now but twenty men 
of them remaining, but more women. Their lan- 
guage differs from all others, and is so difiicidt to 
speak or understand, that no nation can speak ten 
words of it ; but they all speak Caddo, and most of 
them French, to whom they were always attached, 
and joined them against the Natchez Indians. Af- 
ter the massacre of the Natchez, in 17 98, while the 
Spaniards occupied the post of A.daize, their priests 
took much pains to pi-oselytc these Indians t^ the 
Roman Catholic religion, but, I am in formed, were 
totally unsuccessful. 



ALICHE, 

( Commonly jjronounced EydsJuJ 

They live near Nacogdoche.s, but are almost 
extinct, as a nation, not being more than twenty- 
five souls of them remaining: four years ago the 
small-pox destroyed a greater part of theju. They 
were some yeai*s ago, a considerable i! at ion, and 
lived on a Bayou which bears their name, v> hich (he 
road from Natchitoches to Nacogdoches crosses, 
about twelve miles west of Sabine river, on which 
a few French and American families are settled. 
Their native language is spoken by no other na- 
tion, but they speak and understand Caddo, with 
IV bom they are in amity, often visiting one another. 
2 



168 HISTORICAL SKETCHES 



KEYES, OR KEYCHIES. 

They live on the east bank of Trinity river,, 
a small distance above where the road from Natchi- 
toches to St. Antoine crosses it. There are of 
tlicm sixty men : have their peculiar native Ian- 
g'iiage, biit mostly now speak Caddo ; interman'y 
\vi! !i them, and live together in much harmony, for- 
rjQeily laving lived near them, on the head waters 
of the Sabine. They plant corn, and some othei? 
ve-gotables^ 



INIES, OR TACHIES. 

Fi^oM the latter name the name of the province 
of Tacl'us or Taxiss is derived.. The Inies live 
aboi.t fifteen ivilles west of Natchitoches, on a smaller 
river a branch ef Sabine, called the Natches. They 
are, like all their neij^hbours, diminishing; but 
hiive now eighty men. Their ancestors, for a long 
11111-^, lived where they now do. Their language the 
same as tliat of the Caddoes, with whom they areih 
;s:reat amity. These Indians have a good char»c» 
Ur,, live on excellent land, and raise corn to sell. 



NABEDACHES. 

They- live on the west side of the same river^ 
about fifteen miles above tliem ; have about the same 
number of men ; speak the same language ; live on 
the best of land; raise corn in plenty; have the 
same manners, customs and attachments. 



BEDIES. 

They are on the Trinity river, about sixty miles 
^0 the southward of Nacog.doches ; have one hun- 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 169 

drcd men ; are good hunters for deer, which are 
very large, and plenty about them; plant, and 
make good crops of corn ,• language differs from all 
otliers, but speak Caddo ; are a peaceable quiet peo- 
ple, and have an excellent character for their ho- 
nesty and punctuality. 



ACCOCKESAWS. 

Their ancient town and pi-incipal place of re- 
sidence is on the west side of Colerado or Rio 
Rouge, about two hundred miles south-west of Na- 
cogdoches, but often change their place of residence 
for a season ; being near the bay, make great use of 
fish, oysters, &c — kill a great many deer, whidi 
ai*e the largest and fattest in the province ; and their 
country is universally said to be inferior to no part 
©f the province in soil, growth of timber, goodness 
©f water, and beauty of surface ; have language 
peculiar to themselves, but have a mode of commu- 
nication by dumb signs, which they alLunderstand ; 
Kiimber about eighty men. Thirty of forty years 
ago, the Spaniards had a mission here, but broke it 
up or removed it to Nacogdoches. They talk of re- 
settling it, and speak in the highest terms of the 
<>ountry. 



MAYES. 

Thet live on a large creek called St. Gabriel, on 
the bay of St. Bernai'd, near the mouth of Gauda- 
loupe river ; are estimated at two hundred men ; 
never at peace with the Spaniards, towards whom 
they are said to possess a fixed hatred, but profess 
great friendship for the French, to whom they have 
been strongly attached since Monsieur de Salle 
landed in their neighbourhood. The place where 
there is a talk of the Spaniards opening a new port, 
and making a settlement^ is neai' them y where the 



170 HISTORICAL SKETCHK^5 

party, with the governer of St. Aiitoiuc, \Yho\\eic 
there last faJl to examine it, say they found the re- 
mains of a French block-house; some of the can 
non now at Labahic are said to have been brought 
from that place, and known by the engraving now 
to be seen on them. 

The Frcrich speak highly of these Indians for 
their extivme kindness and hospitality to all 
Frenclnnen who have been amongst them ; have a 
language of their own, but speak Attakapa, which 
is a language of their nciglibours the Carankouas ; 
they have likewise a way of conveisiiig by signs. 



CARANKOUAS. 

They live on an island, or peninsula, in the bay 
of St. L'ernard, in lengtli about ten miles, and five 
in breadth ; the soil is extremely rich and pleasant ; 
on one side of which there is a high bluff, or moun- 
tain of coal, which has been on fire for many years, 
affording always a light at night, and a strong thick 
smoke by day, by which vessels are sometimes de- 
ceived and lost on the shoaly coast, which shoals 
are said to extend nearly out of sight of 
land. From this burning coal, there is emitted a 
gummy substance the Spaniards called chctaf which 
is thrown on the shore by the surf, a^d collected 
by them in considerable quantities, which they are 
fond of chewing ; it has the appearance and con- 
sistaiice of pitch, of a strong, aromatic, and not 
disagreeable smell. These Indians are irreconcila- 
ble enemies to the Spaniards, always at war with 
them, and kill them wlienever they can. The Spa- 
niards caJl them cannibals, but the French give 
them a different character, who have always been 
treated kindly by them since Monsieur de Salle and 
his party were in their neighbourhood. They are 
said to be five hundred men strong, hut I have not 
been able to estimate their nunibers from any very 
accurate information ; in a short time expect to be 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 171 

well informed. They speak the Attakano language ; 
are friendly and kind to all other Indians, and, I 
presume, are much like all others, notwithstanding 
what t]ie Spaniards say of them ; for nature is ever}'^ 
where tiie same. 

Last summer an old Spaniard came to me from 
Labaliie, a iourney of about live hundred miles, to 
have a barbed arrow taken out of his shoulder, 
tiiiitonc of these Indians had shot in it. I found it 
under his shoulder-blade, near nine inches, and 
hid to cut a new place to get at the point of it, in or- 
dr to get it out the contrary way from that in 
Wiiiclk it had entered : it was made of a pipce of an 
iron hoop, with wings like a iluke and an inclic. 



CANCES. 

They are a very numerous nation, consisting 
of a great many different tribes, occupying diffe- 
rent parts of the country, from tJic bay of Bt. Ber- 
nard, across river Grand, towards La Vera Cruz, 
They are not friendly to the Spaniards, and gene- 
rally kill them when they have an opportunity. 
They are attached to the French ; are good hunters, 
principally using the bow, Tlicy are very particu- 
lar in their dress, which is made of neatly dressed 
leather; the women wear a long loose robe, resem- 
bling that of a Franciscan friar ; notliing but their 
heads and feet are to be seen. The di^ss of the 
men are straight leather leggins, resembling panta- 
loons, and a leather hunting-sliirt, or frok. No es> 
limate can be made of their number. 

Thirty or forty years ago the Spaniards used to 
make slaves of thein when they could take them; a 
considerable number of theia were brought to 
Natchitoches and sold to the French inhabitants at 
forty or fifty dollars a head, and a number of them 
are still liVing here, but are now free. About 
twenty years ago an order came from the king of 
Spain that no niove Indians should be made slaves^ 



172 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 

and those that were enslaved should bfe emancipated^ 
after wliieh some of the women who had been ser- 
vants in good families, and tjuight spinning, sew- 
ing', ^c. as well fcs managing household aliairs, 
married natives of tiie country, and became respec- 
table, \\\\\ behaved wonu n, and have now, growing 
lip, decent families of cluidren : have a language 
peculiar to themselves, and are understood, by 
signs, by all otliers. I'hey are in amity wdth all 
otJier Indians except the Hietans. 



TANKAWAYS, OR TANKS. 

As the French call them, have no land nor claim 
the exclusive right to any, nor liave any particular 
place of abode, out are always moving, alternately 
occupying the country watered by the Trinity, 
Braces, and Colorado, towards St. a Fe, Resemble 
in their dress, the Cances and Hietans, but all in 
one horde or tribe. Their number of men is esti- 
mated at about two hundred ; are good hunters, kill 
buffalo and dear with the bow; have the best breed 
of horses ; are alternately friends and enemies of 
the Spaniards. An old ti-adei* lately inforwed me, that 
he had received five thousand deer skins from them 
in one year, exclusive of tallow, rugs and tongues. 
They plant nothing, but live upon wild fruits and 
flesh : are strong, atldetic people, and excellent 
horsemen. 



TAWAKENOES, OR THREE CANES. 

^They are called by both names indifferently ; 
live on tlie west side of the Braces, hut are often, 
for montiis at a time, lower down than their usual 
place of residence, in the great prairie at the Tor- 
tuga, or Turtle, called so from its being a hill in the 
prairie, wliich at a distance, appears in the fm-m of s 
turtle; upon wliich there are some remarkable 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 173 

springs of water. Their usual residence is about 
two hundred miles to the westward of Nacogdjches, 
towards St. a F^. They arc estiiiiatcd at tw > iiun- 
dred men: are good iiunters; have i^uns, but liurit 
principally with the bow : are supplied with goods 
from Nacogdoches, and pay for them in rugs, 
tongues, tallaw, and skins. They speak the same 
language as the Panics, or Towiaclies, and pretend 
to have descended from the same ancestors, 

PANIAS, OR TOWIACHES. 

The French call them Panis, [ind the Spaniards 
Towiaches ; the latter is the proper Indian «a.ae. 
Ihey live on the south side of Red river; by the 
eourse of the river up\5rards of eight hundred miles 
above Natchitoches, and by land, by the nearest 
path, IS estimated at about four hundred and forty. 
They have two towns near together; the lower 
town, where the chief lives, is called Niteheta, and 
the other is called Towaahach. They call their pre- 
sent chief the Great Bear. Tiiey arc at war 
with the. Spaniards, but friendlv to* those French 
and American hunters who have*^latcly been amonff 
them. They are likewise at war with the Osages, 
as are every other nation. For raanv hundreds of 
miles round theiji, the country is rich prairie, co- 
hered with luxuriant grass, whicli is green, summer 
^nd winter, with skirts of wood on the river bank, 
jy tlie springs and creeks. 

They have many horses and mules. They raise 
more corn, pumpkins, beans and tobacco, than they 
want for their own consumption ; the surplusage 
they exchange with the Hietans for buffalo ruM, 
horses, and mules ; the pumpkins thev cut round 
m their shreads, and when it is in a state of dry- 
ness, that it is so tough it will not break but bend, 
they plait and work it into large mats, in which 
state they sell it to the Hietans, who as they traveL 
cut off and eat it as they want it. Their tobacco 



174 mSTORICAL SKETCHES. 

they manufacture and cut as fine as tea, which is 
put in leather bags of a ceilain size, and is likewise 
an article of traa :. They have but few guns, and 
very little ammunition ; what they have they keep 
for war, iaid hunt with the bow. Their meat is 
princjpaily buifalo ; seldom kill a deer, though th^^y 
are so plenty that they come into their villages, and 
about their houses, like a domestic animal ; elks, 
bears, wolves, antelopes and wild hogs are likewise 
plenty in their country, and white rabbits, orhares,^ 
as well as the common rabbit : wliite bears some- 
times come down amongst them, and wolves of va- 
rioflis colours. The men generally go entirely na- 
ked, and the women he arly so, only wearing a snikll 
flap of a piece of a skin. They have a number of 
Spaniards among them, of fair complexion, taken 
from the settlement of St. a Fe, when they were 
children, who live as they do, and have no know- 
ledge of where they came from. Their language 
differs from that of any other nation, the Tawake- 
Moes excepted. Their present number of men is esti- 
mated at about four hundred. A great number of 
them, four years, v/ere swept off by the small-pox. 



HIETANS, OR COMANCHES. 

Who are likewise called by both names, have no 
fixed place of residence ; have neither towns nor 
villages ; divided into so many diiferent hordes or 
tribes, that they have scarcely any knowledge of 
one another. No estimate oi their numbei*s can 
well be made. They never remain in the same 
place more than a few days, but follow the buffalo, 
tlieflpsli of wiueh is their principal food. Some of 
tliem j>ecasi:^aally pui'chase of the Panis, corp, 
beans, and pnpk ins ; b:»t they are so numerous, 
that any quairiily ?f th^ s^^ articles the Panls are able 
tosujViv tn< .n vitf^ m ist laake hut a small propor- 
ti^n >f their fo d. Ths'y have tents made )f neatly 
di*cbsed*skias, fasiiioned in tiie form of a cone, suf- 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. I7i> 

ficieiitly roomy for a family of ten or twelve per- 
sons ; those of the chiefs will contain occasionally 
fifty or sixty persons. Wiien tiiey stop, their tents 
are pitched in very exact order, so as to form regu- 
lar streets and squares, which in a few minutes has 
the appearance of a town, raised, as it wei*e hy en- 
cliantment^ and tliey are equally dexterous in 
striking tlieir tents and pi'eparin.^ for a march 
wlien the signal is given ; to every tent two horses 
or mules are alloted, one to carry the tent, and ano- 
ther the poles or sticks, wliich are neatly made of 
red cedar, they travel on horsehack. Their horses 
they never turn loose to graze, hut always keep 
them tied with a long cab r as or halter ; and evciy 
two or three days they arc obliged to remove on 
account of all the grass near tliem being eaten up, 
they have such numbers of horses. They arc good 
horsemen and have good horses, most of which are 
bred by themselves ; and being accustomed from 
when very young to be handled, they arc remarka- 
bly docile and gentle. They sometimes catch wild 
horses, which are every wiierc among tliem in im- 
mense droves. They hunt down the buftalo on 
Iiorscbaek, and kill them either with the bow or a 
sharp sficiv like a spear, which they carry in their 
liands. They are generally at war with the Spa- 
niards, often committing depredations upon the in- 
Iiabitaiits of St. a Fe and St. Antoine ; but liave al- 
svays been friendly and civil td any French or Ame- 
licans who have been among them. They arc 
strong athletic, and the elderly men as fiit as though 
they had lived upon American beef and porter. 

it is said, that the man who kills a buffalo, catclrcs 
the blood, and drinks it while warm ; they likewise 
eat the liver raw, before it is*c(ikl, and use the gall 
by way of sause. They are, for savages, uncom- 
monly cleanly in their persoj.s : tlie dress of the 
women is a long loose I'obe, that reaches from their 
chin to the ground, tied round with a fancy sash, or 
girdle, all made of neatly dressed leathei-, oii which 
they paint figures of different colours and significa- 



i7-^ HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 

lions : the dress of the men is close leather panta- 
loons, and a huntini; shirt, or frock of the same. 
Tliey ncvei* remain long enough in the same place 
to plant any thing: the small Cayenne pepper 
grows spontaneously in the country, with which, 
and some wild herhs and fruits, particularly a hean 
that grows in great plenty on a small tree resem- 
bling a willow, called masketo, the women cook 
tlieir buffalo beef in a manner tliat would be grate- 
ful to an American squire. They alternately occupy 
tlie immense space of country from the Trinity and 
Braces, crossing the Red river, to the heads of Ar~ 
k ansa and Missouri, to the river Grand, and be- 
yond it, about St. a Fe, and over the dividing ridge 
-xm the waters of tlic Western ocean, where they 
say they have seen large peroques, with masts to 
them ', in describing which, they have seen vessels 
ascending a river, over which was a draw-bridge 
that opened to give them a passage. I'lieir native 
language of sounds differs from the language of 
any other nation, and none can either speak or un- 
derstand it; but they have a language by signs, 
tlitit all Indians understand, and by whicli they con- 
verse much among themselves. Tliey have a num- 
ber of Spanish men and women among thein, who 
are slaves, wliieh they made prisoners when young. 

An elderly gentleman now living at Natchitoches, 
who, some years ago, carried on a trade with the 
llictans, a few years*^ ago, related to me the follow- 
i]ig story: 

''About twenty years ago a party of these In- 
dians passed over the Grand river to Cliewawa, 
the residence of the governor-general of what is 
called the Five Internal Provinces ; lay in ambush 
for an opportunity, and made jn-isoner the gover- 
nor' .^daughter, a young lady going in her coacli to 
mass, and brought her off. The governor sent a 
message to him (my infoniiant) with a tlvousand 
dollars, for the purpose of recovering his daugliter : 
he imniicdiately despatclied a confidential trader for 
the purpose of recovering his daughter, then in his 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 175 

employ, with the amount of the thounsand dollars 
in mei'chandise, who repaired to the nation, found 
her, and purchased her ransom ; but to his great 
surpi'ise, she refused to retui*n with him to her fa« 
ther, and sent, by him, the following message: 
** That the Indians had disfigured her face by tattoo- 
ing it, according to their fancy and ideas of beauty, 
and a young man of them had taken her for his 
w ife, by whom she believed herself pregnant ; that 
she had become reconciled to their mode of life, and 
was well treated by her husband; and that she 
should be more unhappy by returning to her father, 
under these circumstances, than ^by remaining 
where she was:" Which message was conveyed to 
her father, who rewarded the ti*aderby a present of 
three hundred dollars more for his trouble and fidd- 
ity. His daughter is now living with her Indian bus- 
band in the nation, by whom she has three children." 



NATCHITOCHES, 

Formerly lived w^here the town of JNatchito- 
ches is now situated, which took its name from 
them. An elderly French gentleman lately told 
me, he remembered when tliey were six hundred 
strong. I believe it is now ninety-eight years since 
the French first established themselves at Natchi- 
toches ; ever since these Indians have been their 
steady and faithful friends. After the massacre of 
the French inhabitants of Natchez, by the Natchez 
Indians, in 172S, those Indians, fled from the 
French, after being reinforced, and came up Red 
river, a.nd encampted about six miles below the 
town of Natchitoches, near the river, by the side of 
a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of 
considerable size, where it now remains. Mon- 
sieur St. Dennie, a French Canadian, was thcH 
commandant at Natchitoches ; the Indians called 
him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a 
brave raan^ St. Dennie, w ith a few French flol 



i76 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 

diers, and wliat malitia he could miister joined by 
*he Natchitoches Indians, attacked the Natchez in 
their camp, early in the morning : tliey defended 
ilesperatedly for six hours, hut were at length totally 
defeated by St. Dcnnie, and those of them tlsat 
were not killed in battle, were driven into the 
lake, where the last of them perished, and the 
Natchez, as a nation, become extinct. Tlie lake is 
now called by no other name than the Natchez 
lake. Tlieir are now remaining of the Natchito- 
ches but twelve men and nineteen women, who live 
in a village about twenty-Hve miles by land above 
the town, which bears their name, near a lake., 
called by the French Lac de Mnire, Their original 
language is the same as the Yattassec, but speak 
Caddo, and most of them French. 

The French inhabitajits have great respect for 
ibis nation ; and a nuuiber of vei'^ decent families 
have a mixture of their blood in them. They claim 
but a small tract of land, on which they live, and I 
am informed, have the same lights to it from go- 
vernment, that other inhabitants in their neigh- 
bourhood have. They are gradually wasting away ; 
the small-pox has been their great destroyer. They 
still preserve their Indian dress and habits ; raise 
corn and those vegetables common in tlieir neigh- 
bourhood. 



BOLUXAS. 

Are emigrants from near Pensacola. They 
came to Red liver about forty-two years ago, with 
some French families, who left tli at country aboul 
the time Pensacola was taken possession of by the 
English. They were then a consideiably numerous 
tribe, and have generally embraced the Roman Ca- 
tliolic religion, and were evei* highly esteemed b\ 
the French. Tliey settled first at Avoyall, theit 
moved higher up the Rapide Bayou, and from 
thence to the mputh of Reguia de Bondien, a dlvi- 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. irr 

sion of Red river, about forty miles below Natchi- 
tochesjwhere they now live, and are reduced to about 
thirty in number. Their native language is pecu> 
liar to themselves, but speak Mobilian which is 
sj)oIvcn by all tlie Indians from the east side of the 
Mississippi. They arc an honest, harmless, and 
friendly people. 



APPALACHES. 

They are likewise emigrants from West Flo- 
rida, from oft' the river whose name they bear ; 
came over to Red river about the same time the 
Boluxas did, and have, ever since lived on tile river 
about Bayou Rapide. No nation have been more 
highly esteemed hj the Fvench inhabitants; no 
complaints against them are ever heard ; there are 
only fourteen men remaining ; have their own lan- 
guage, but speak French and Mobilian. 



ALLIBAMIS. 

They are likewise from West Florida, off the 
Allibami river, and came to Red river about the 
same time of the Boluxas and Appal aches. Part 
of them have lived on Red river, about sixteen 
miles above the Bayou Rapide, till last year, when 
most of this party, of about thirty men, went up 
Red river, and have settled theHiselves near the 
Caddoques, where, I am info?'n>ed, they last year 
has a good crop of corn. The Caddoques are 
friendly to them, and have no objection to tlieir 
settling there. They speak the Greek and Chataw 
languages, and Mr>bilian; most of them French, and 
some of them English, 

There is another party of tliem, whose village is 

on a small creek, in xippelousa disiriet, about thii'ty 

miles north west from the churcli of Appelousa. 

They consist of about forty men. They have lived 

P 2 



178 HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 

at the same place ever since they came from Flo- 
I'ida ; are said to be increasing a little in numbers, 
for years past. They raise coi*n, have horses, hogs 
arid cattle, and are harmless quiet people. 



CONCHATTAS. 

TiiEY are almost the same people as the Alliba- 
mis, but came over only ten years ago ; first lived 
on Bayou Chico, in Appelousa district ; but, four 
years ago, moved to the river Sabine settled them- 
selves on the east bank, where they now Hve, in 
nearly p, south direction from Natchitoches, and dis- 
tant about eighty miles. They call their number of 
men about one hundred and sixty ; but say, if they 
were all together, tliey would amount to two hun- 
dred. Several families of them live in detached 
settlements. They are good hunters. Game is 
plenty. A few days ago, a small party of them were 
here, consisting of fifteen persons, men, women, 
and cliildren, who were on their return from a 
bear hunt up the Sabine. They told me they 
had killed one hundred and eighteen ; but this year 
an uncommon number of bears have come down. 
One man alone, on the Sabine, during the summer 
and fall hunting, killed four hundred deer, sold his 
skins at forty dollars a hundred. The bears this 
N ear are not ho fat as common ; tiiey usually yield 
from eight to tv/elve gallons of oil, each of which 
never sells for less than a dollar a gallon, and the 
skin a dollar more. No great quaiitity of the meat 
«s saved. What the hunters do not use when out, 
(hey ^generally give to the dogs. The Conchattas 
are friendly with all other Indians, and speak well 
of their neighbours the Carankouas, who, they say 
live about eighty miles south of them, on the bay, 
which I believe, is the nearest point to the sea from 
Natchitoches. A few families of Chactaws haVic 
lately settled near them from Bayou Boeuf. Thie 
Conchattas speak Greek, which is their native Ian* 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. iSi 

guage, and Chactaw, and several of them English, 
and one or two of thcni can read it a little. 



PACANAS. 

They are a small tribe of about thirty men, 
wlio live on the Quelqueshoe river, which falls into 
the bay between Attakappa and Sabine, which 
heads in a prairie called Cooko Prairie, about forty 
miles south west of Natchitoches. These people 
are likewise emigrants from West Florida, about 
forty years ago. Theii' village is about fifty miles 
south-east of the Conchattas; are said to be in- 
creasing a little in number; quiet, peaceable, and 
friendly people. Their own language differs from 
any other, but speak Mobilian, 



ATTAKAFAS. 

This word, I am informed, when translated into 
English, means Man-eater, but is no more applica- 
ble to them than any other Indians. The district 
they live in is called after them. Their village is 
about twenty -fine miles to the westward of the 
Attakappa church, towards Quelqueshoe. Their 
number of men is about fifty, but some Tunicas and 
Humas, who have married in their nation, and live 
with them altogether about eighty. They ai'e peace- 
able and friendly to every body ; labour, occasion- 
ally, for the white inhabitants; raise their own 
corn ; have cattle and hogs. Their language and 
the Carankouas is the same. They were, or near 
where they now live, when that part of the country 
was first discovered by the French* 



182 HISTORICAL SKETCHES 



APPALOUSA. 

It is said the word Appalousa, in tlic Indiavj. 
language, means, Black head, or Black skull. 
They are aborigines of the district called by their 
name. Their village is about fifteen miles west 
from the Appalousa church ; have about forty -five 
men. Theii* native language differs from all other ; 
understand Attacapa, and speak French^ plant 
corn, have cattle and hogs. 



TUNICAS. 

These people lived formerly on the Bayou Tu- 
nica, above Point Coupee, on the MissiSvSippi, east 
side; live now at Aveyall; do not at present ex- 
ceed twenty-five men. Their native language is 
peculiar to themselves, but speak Mobilian; arc 
employed, occasionally, by the inhabitants as boat- 
men, «Scc. are in amity with all other people, and 
gradually diminishing in numbei-s. 



PASCAGOLAS. 

These people live in a small village on Red 
river, about sixty miles below Natcliitoches ; ai-e 
emigrants from Pascagola river, in West Florida ; 
twenty -five men of them only remaining ; speak 
Mobilian, but have a language peculiar to them- 
selves ; most of them speak and understand French. 
They raise good crops of corn, and garden vegeta- 
bles ^ have cattle, horses, ^.iid poultry plenty. 



TENISAWS. 

They arc likewise emigrants from the Tenne*^ 
sau river, that falls into the bay of Mobile ; have 



HISTORICAL SKETCHES. 18S 

Kcsided on Red river about forty years ; are re- 
duced to about twenty -five men. Their village is 
within one mile of the Pascagolas, on the opposite 
side; but have lately sold their land, and have, or 
are about moving to Bayou Bo&uf, about twenty- 
five miles south from where they lately lived. All 
speak French and Mobilian, and live much like 
tlieir neighbours the Pascagolas. 



CHATTOOJS. 

/ They live on Bayou Boeuf, about ten miles to 
the southward of Bayou Hapide, on Red river, to- 
wards Appalousa : a small honest people ; are abo- 
rigines of the country where they liA^e^ of men about 
thirty ; diuiinishing : have their own peculiar 
tongiie; speak Mobilian. The lands they claim 
on Bayou Boiuf are inferior to no part of Louisiana 
in deptli and richness of soil, growth of timber, 
pleasantness of surHice, and goodness of water. 
The Bayou Boiuf falls into the Cliaffeli, and dis- 
ehaiges, through Appelousa and Attakapa and Ver- 
million bay. 



WASHAS. 

When the French first came into the Missis- 
sippi, this nation lived on an island to the south- 
west of New-Orleans, called Barritaria, and were 
the first tribe of Indians they became acquainted 
with, and were always friends. They afterwards 
lived on Bayou LaFosh,- and, from being a consi- 
derable nation, are now reduced to five persons only, 
two men and three women, who are scattered m 
French families ; have beeamany years extinct* as 
a nation, and tlieir native language is lost. 



IS* HISTORICAL SKETCJIE&. 



CHACTAWS. 

Theke are a considerable number of this nation 
on the west side of the Mississippi, who have not 
been home for several years. Abont twelve miles 
above the post on Ouacheta, on that river, there is 
a small village of them of about tliirty men, who 
have lived there for several years, and made corn; 
and likewise on Bayou Chica, in the northern part 
of the district of Appalousa, there is another vil- 
lage of them of about fifty men, who have been 
there for about nine years, and say they have the 
governor of Louisiana's permission to settle there. 
Besides these, there are rambling hunting pai-ties 
of them to be met with all over Lower Louisi- 
ana. They are at war with the Caddoques, and 
liked by neither red nor white people. 



ARKANSAS. 

They live on the Arkansa river, south side, in 
three villages, about twelve mUes above the post, 
or station. The name of the first village is Tow- 
anima; second Oufotu, and the third Ocapa; in all, 
it is believed, they do not at present exceed one 
hundred men, and diminishing. They are at war 
with the Osages, but friendly with all other people, 
white and red ; are the original proprietors of the 
country on the river, to all which tliey claim, for 
about three hundi'cd miles above them, to the junc- 
tion of the river Cadwa with Arkansa; above this 
fork the Osages claim. Their language is Osage. 
They generally raise corn to soil ; are called hone*?t 
suid friendly people. 



ORIGIN. 



The means," says an ingenious traveller, " by 
wliicfi America received its first inhabitants, have, 
since the time of its discoveiy by the Europeans, 
been the subject of numberless disquisitions. Was 
I to endeavour to collect the different opinions and 
reasonings of the various writers that have taken 
up the pen in defence of their conjectures, the enu- 
meration would much exceed the bounds I have pre- 
scribed to myself, and oblige me to be less explicit 
on points of greater moment. From the obscurity 
in which this debate is enveloped, through the total 
^disuse of lettei-s among every nation of Indians on 
this extensive continent, and the uncertainty of oral 
tradition at the distance of so many ages, I fear, 
that even after the most minute investigation, we 
shall not be able to settle it with any great degree 
of certainty. And this apprehension will receive 
additional force, when it is considered that the di- 
versity of language, which is apparently distinct 
between most of the Indians, tends to ascertain tliat 
this population was not effected from one particular 
country, but from several neighbouring ones, and 
completed at different periods. Most of the histo- 
rians, or travellers that have treated on the Ameri- 
can Aborigines, disagree in theii- sentiments illa- 
tive tothem. Many of the ancients are supposed 
to have known that tliis quarter of tlic globe not 
only existed, but also tliat it was inhabited. Plato 
m hisTim^us has asserted, that beyond the island 
wluch h.e calls Atalantis, and which, according to 
liis discripti:>n, was situated in the SVestern Ocean, 
there were a gi-eat number of other islands, and 
behind those a vast continent. Ovicdo, a celebrated 
Spanish author, of a :nuch later date, lias made no 
scruple to ftftirm, that the Antilles are the famous 



186 THEIR ORIGIN; 

Hesperidcs, so often mentioned by the poets ; whicli 
arc at length restored to the kings of Spain, the 
descendants of king Hesperus, who lived upwards 
of three thousand years ago, and from whom these 
islands received their name. Two other Spaniards, 
the one Father Gregorio Garcia, a Dominican ; tlie 
other Father Joseph De Acosta, a Jesuit, have 
writen on the origin of the Americans. The former, 
who had been employed in the missions of Mexico 
and Peru, endeavoured to prove from the traditions 
of the Mexicans, Peruvians, and others which he 
received on the spot, and from the vaiiety of cha- 
racters, customs, languages and religion observed 
in the dijfferent countries of the New World, that 
different nations had contributed to the peopling of 
it. The latter. Father* De Acosta, in his cxamina 
tion of the means by which the first Indians of Ame- 
rica might have found a passage to that continent,* 
discredits the conclusions of those who have sup- 
posed it to be sea, because no ancient autlior has 
made mention of the compass ; and concludes, that 
it must be either by the north of Asia and Europe, 
which adjoin to each other, or by those regions tliat 
Me to the southward of the Straits of Magellan. 
He also rejects the assertions of such as have ad- 
vanced that it was peopled by the Hebrews. John 
de Laet, a Flemish writer, has controverted the 
opinions of these Spanish fathei's, and of many 
others who have writen on the same subject. TJic 
hypothesis lie endeavours to establish, is,* that Ame- 
rica was certainly peopled by tiie Scytliians orTai*- 
tars, and tliat the transmigration of these people 
happened soon after the dispersion of Noah's gi-and- 
sons. He undertakes to show, tliat the most nor- 
thern Americans liave a greater resemblance, not 
only in the features of their countenances, but also 
in their complexion and manner of living, to Vm 
Scythians, I'ai'tars and Samueides, than to any 
other nations. In answer to Grotius, who had as- 
sei'ted that some of tlie Norwegians passed into 
America by way of Greenland, and over a vast con- 



THEIR ORmiN. 1S7 

tinent, he says, that it is well known tliat Greenland 
was not discovered till the year 96^ ; and both Go- 
mcra and Herrera inform us, tliat the Chiclume- 
ques were settled on the lake of Mexico in 721. 
He adds, that these savages, according to the uni- 
form tradition of the Mexicans who "dispossessed 
them, came from the country since called New 
Mexico, and from the neighbourhood of Califor- 
nia; consequently North America must have been 
inhabited many ages before it could receive any 
inhabitants from Norway, hy way of Greenland. 
It is no less certain, he obser^ es, tliat the real 
Mexicans founded their empire in 902, after hav- 
ing subdued the Chichimeques, the Otomias, and 
other barbarous nations, who had taken possession 
of the country round the lake of Mexico, and each 
of whom spoke a language peculiar to themselves. 
The real Mexicans are likewise supposed to come 
•from some of the countries that lie near California, 
and that they performed their journey for the most 
part by land ; of course they could not come from 
Norway. De Laet further adds, that though some 
of the inhahitants of North America may have 
entered it from the north-west, yet, as it is related 
by Pliny, and seme other writers, that on many of 
the islands near the western coast of Afi'ica, par- 
ticularly on tlie Canaries, some ancient edifices 
were seen, it is highly probable from their being 
now deserted, that the inhabitants may have passed 
over to America ; the passage neither long nor 
difficult. Tliis migration, according to the calcu- 
lation of those autiiors, must have happened more 
than two thousand years ago, at a time wlien the 
Spaniards were much troubled by the Carthagi- 
nians ; from whom having obtained a knowledge of 
navigation and the construction of ships, they 
might have retired to the Antilles, by way of the 
western isles, which were exactly half way on their 
voyage. He thinks also, that Great Britain, Ire- 
land, and the Orcades were extremely proper to 
^dmit of a similar conjecture. As a proof, he in- 
Q 



188 THEIR ORIGIN. 

serfs the following passage from the history of 
M ales, written hy Dr. David Powel, in the year 
1170: — This historian says, that Madoc, one of 
the sons of Prince Owen Gwynnith, being disgusted 
at the civil wars which broke out between liis broth- 
ers after tlie death of their father, fitted out several 
vessels, and having provided them with every thing 
necessary for a long voyage, went in quest of new 
lands to the westward of Ireland; there he disco- 
vei-ed very fertile countries, but destitute of inhabi- 
tants ; when landing a part of his people, he re- 
turned to Britian, where he raised new levies, and 
afterwards transported this to his colony. 

The Flemish author then returns to the Scy- 
thians, between whom and the Americans he 
draws a parallel. He observes that several na- 
tions of tliem to the nortli of the Caspian sea, 
led a wandering life ; which, as well as many 
other of their customs, and way of living, agrees' 
in many circumstances with the Indians of Ameri- 
ca. And though the resemblances are not abso- 
lutely perfect, yet the emigrants, even before they 
left their owii country, diflTered from each other, 
and went not by thesame name. > Their change 
of abode effected wliat remained. He further says, 
that a similar likeness exists between several Amer- 
ican nations and the Sania'ides, wlio are settled, 
according to the Russian accounts, on tlie great 
river Oby. And it is more natural, continues lie, 
to suppose that colonies of these nations passed 
over to America by crossing the Icy Sea on their 
sledges, tlian for the Norwegians to travel all the 
way Gi'otius has marked out for them. This wri* 
ter anakes many other remarks that are equally 
sensible, and wliieh appear to be just, • but he in- 
teimixes with these some that aie not so well 
founded. Emmanuel de Moraez, a Portuguese, 
in his history of Brazil, asserts that America has 
been wholly peopled by the Carthaginiaiis and Is- 
raelites. He brings as a proof of this assertion 
the discoveries the former aj»e knowia to have made 



THEIR ORIGIN. 189 

at a great distance beyond the coast of Africa. 
The progress of which being- put a stop to by the 
senate of Carthage, those wlio happened to be 
then in the newly discovered countries, being cut 
off from all communication with tlieir country- 
men, and destitute of many necessaries of life, 
fell into a state of barbarism. As to the Israelites, 
this autlior thinks that nothing but circumcision 
is wanted in order to constitute a peifcct resem- 
blance between them and the Brazilians, George 
de Hornn, a learned Dutchman, has liiiewise writ- 
ten on tlie subject. He sets out with declaring, 
that he does not believe it possible America could 
have been peopled before the flood, considering the 
short space of time which elapsed between the crea- 
tion of the world and the memorable event. In the 
next place he lays it down as a principle, that after 
the deluge, men and other terrestrial animals pene- 
trated into that country both by sea and land ; 
some through accident, and some from a formed 
design. Tliat birds got thither by flight; which 
they were enabled to db by resting on the rocks a/nl 
islands that are scattered about the ocean. He 
further observes that wild beasts may have found 
a fi'ee passage by land ; and that if we do not meet 
with horses or cattle (to which he might have added 
elephants, camels, rhinoceroses, and beasts of many 
other kinds) it is because these nations that passed 
thither, were either not acquainted with tlieir use, 
or had no convenience to support tliem. Having 
totally excluded many nations that others have ad- 
mitted as the first settlers of America, for which 
he gives substantial reasons, he supposes tiiat it be- 
gan to be peopled by the north ; and maintains the 
primitive colonies spread themselves by the means 
of the isthmus of Panama, through the whole extent 
of the continent. He believes that the first founderi 
of the Indian colonies were Scythians. That^rhvi 
Phoenicians and Cai'thaginians afterwards got foot- 
ing in America across the Atlantic ocean, and the 
Chinese by way of the Pacific, and that other na 



190 THEIR ORIGIN. 

tions might from time have landed there by one or 
other of^ these ways, or miglit possibly have been 
ihrown on the coast by tempests : since, through 
the whole extent of that continent, both in its nor- 
thern and southern parts, we meet with undoubted 
marks of a mixture of the northern nations, with 
those who have come from other places. And lastly, 
that some Jews and Christians might have been 
carried thereby such like events, but that this must 
liave happened at atime when the whole of tlie new 
world was already peopled. After all, he acknow- 
ledges that great difficulties attend the determina- 
tion of tlie question. These, he says, are oceasion- 
' d in the first place by the imperfect knowledge we 
have of the extremities of the globe, toward the 
north and south pole ; and the next place to the ha- 
voc which the Spaniards, the first discoverers of 
the new world, made among its most ancient monu- 
ments ; as witness the great double road betwixt 
Quito and Cuzco, an undertaking so stupendous, 
that even the most magnificent of those executed by 
the Romans cannot be compared to it. He suppos- 
es also another migration of the Phoenicians, than 
those already mentioned to have taken place ; and 
this was during a three years' voyage made by the 
Tyrian fleet in the service of King Solomon. He 
asserts on the authority of Joseph us, that the port 
at which this embarkation was made, lay in the ^le- 
diterranean. The fleet, he adds, went in quest of 
elepliant's teeth and peacocks to the western coast of 
Africa, which is Tarshish ; then to Ophir for gold, 
which is Haiti, or the island of Hispaniola ; in the 
latter opinion he is supported by Columbus, who, 
when he discovered that island, thought he could 
trace the furnaces in which the gold was refined. To 
these migrations which preceded the Christian era, 
he adds many others of a latter date from diflerent 
nations, but these I have not time to enumerate, 
Fof the same reason I am obliged to pass over 
numberless writers on this subject; and shall con- 
tent myself with only giving the sentiments of two 



^ 



THEIR ORIGIN. 191 

or three more. The first of these is Pierre De 
Charlevoix, a Frenchman, who, in his journal of a 
voyage to Noitli America, made so lately as the 
year 1720, has recapitulated the opinions of a vari- 
ety of authors on this head, to which he has suh- 
joined his own conjectures ; but the latter cannot 
without some difficulty be extraced, as they are so 
inter^yoven with the passages he has quoted, that it 
requirt'.s much attention to discriminate tliem. He 
seems to aHowthat America might have received its 
first inhabitants, from Tartary and Hyrcania. 
This he confirms, by observing, that the lions and 
tigers which are found in the former, must have 
come from those countries, and whose passage 
serves for a proof that the two hemispheres join to 
the northward of Asia. He then draws a coiTobo- 
ration of this argument, from a story he says he has 
often heard related by Father Grollon, a French 
Jesuit, as an undoubted matter of fact. Tliis Fa- 
ther* after having laboured some time in the missi- 
ons of New France, passed over to those of China. 
One day as he was travelling in Tartary, he met a 
Huron woman whom he had formerly known in 
Canada. He asked her by what adventure she had 
been carried into a country so distant from her 
own. She made answer, that having been taken in 
war she had been conducted from nation to nation, 
till she had reached the place at which she then was. 
Monsieur Charlevoix, says further, that he had 
been assured another Jesuit,passing through Nantz, 
in his return from China, had related much such 
another affair of a Spanish woman from Florida. 
She also had been taken by certain Indians, and giv- 
en to those of a more distant country ; and by these 
again to another nation, till having thus been sm€- 
cessively passed from country to country, and tra- 
velled tlirough regions extremely cold, she at^last 
found herself in Tai^tary. Here she had married a 
Tartar, who had attended the conqueror-s in China, 
where she was then settled. He acknowledges as 
an allay to the probability of these stories, that those 
Q 2 



i9'Z THEIR ORiGUN. 

who had sailed farthest to the eastward of Asia, by 
pursuing tlie coast of Jcsso, or Kamschatka, have 
pretended that they liad perceived the extremity of 
this continent; and from thence have concluded tha? 
there could not possibly he any communication by 
land. But lie adds that Francis Guella, a Spaniard, 
is said to have asserted, that this separation is no 
more than a strait, about one hundred miles over, 
and that some late voyages of the Japanese give 
grounds to think, that this strait is only a bay, above 
which there is a passage over land. He goes on to 
observe, that though there are few wild beasts to be 
met with in North Ameiica, except a kind of tigers 
without spots, which are found in the country of the 
Iroquois, yet towards the tropics there are lions and 
real tigers, which notwithstanding, might have 
come from Hyrcania and Tartary ; for as by ad- 
vancing gradually southward they met witli climates 
more agreeable to tlieir natures, they have in time 
abandoned the northern countries. He quotes both 
Solinus and Pliny, to prove that the^Scythian An- 
thropophagi once depopulated a great extent of 
country, as far as the^promontory Tabin ; and also 
an author of later date, Mark Pol, a Venetian, who, 
he says, tells us, that to the northeast of China and 
Tartary there are vast uninhabited countries, which 
might be suflftcient to confirm any conjectures con- 
cerning the retreat of a great number of Scythians 
into America. 

To this he adds, that we find in the ancients the 
Tiames of some of these nations. Pliny speaks of 
the Tabians, Solinus mentions the Ap uleans, who 
had for their neighbours the Massagetes, whom 
Pliny since assures us to have entirely disappeared. 
Amianus Marcellinus expressly tells us, that the 
fear of the Anthropophagi obliged several of the 
inhabitants of those countries to take refuge else- 
where. From all these authorities Monsieur Char- 
levoix concludes, that there is at least room to con- 
jecture that more than one nation in America had a 
Scythiajipr Tartarian original. He finishes his re- 



THEIR ORIGIN, 19 ; 

marks on the authors lie has quoted, by the follow- 
ing observations : It appears to me that tliis con- 
troversy may be leduced to the following articles ; 
first, how the new world might have been peopled ; 
and, secondly, by whom, and by what means it has 
been peopled. Nothing, he asserts, may be more 
easily answered than the first. America might 
have been peopled as the three other parts of the 
world have been. Many difficulties have been form- 
ed on this subject, whicli have been deemed insolva- 
ble, but which are far from being so. The inhabi- 
tants of both hemispheres are certainly the descen- 
dants of the same father; the common parent of 
mankind received an express command from Hea- 
ven to people the whole world, and accordingly it 
has been peopled. To bring this about, it was ne- 
cessary to overcome all ditiiculties that lay in the 
way, and they have been got over. Were these 
difficulties greater with respect to peopling the ex- 
tremities of Asia, Africa and Europe, or the trans- 
porting men into the islands which lie at a conside- 
rable distance from those continents, than to pass 
over into America ? Certainly not. Navigation^ 
which has arrived at so great perfection within these 
three or four centuries, might possibly have been 
more perfect in those early ages than at this day. 
Who can believe that Noah and his immediate de- 
scendants knew less of this art than we do ? that 
the builder and pilot of the largest ship that ever 
was,* a ship that was formed to traverse an unboun- 
ded ocean, and had so many shoals and quicksands 
io guard against, should be ignorant of, or should 
not have communicated to those of his descendants 
who survived him, and by whose means he was to 
execute the order of the (ireat Creator ? I say, who 
can believe he should not have communicated to 
them the art of sailing upon an ocean, which was 
not only more calm and pacific, but at the same time 
confined within its ancient limits ? Admitting this, 
how easy it is to pass, exclusive of the passage al- 
ready described, by landfrqm the coast of Africa to 



l^i THEIR ORIGIN. 

Brazil, from the Canaries to tlie Western Islands, 
and from them to the Antilles? From tlie British 
Isles, or the coast of France, to New-foundland the 
passage is neither long* nor difficult ; I might say as 
much of that fromChina to Japan; from Japan, or the 
Philipines,tothe Isles Mariannes; and from thence 
to Mexico. 

There are islands at a considerable distance from 
the continent of Asiav^vhere we have not been sur- 
prised to find inhabitants; why then should w'e 
wonder to meet with people in America ? Nor can 
it be imagined that the grandsons of Noah, when 
they were obliged to separate, and spread them- 
selves in conformity to the designs of God, over the 
whole earth, should find it absolutely impossible to 
people almost one half of it. I have been more co- 
pious in my extracts from this author than I inten- 
ded, as his reasons appear to be solid, and many of 
his observations just. From this encomium, how- 
ever, I must exclude the stories he has introduced 
of the Huron andFloridan women, which I think I 
might venture to pronounce fabulous. I shall only 
add, to give my readers a more comprehensive view 
of Monsieur Charlevoix's dissertation, the method 
he proposes to come at the truth of what we are in 
search of. 

The only means by which this can be done, he 
says, is by comparing the language of the Americans 
with the different nations from whence we might 
suppose they have peregrinated. If we compare the 
former with those w^ords that are considered as pri- 
mitives, it might possibly set us upon some happy 
discovery. And this way of ascending to the orgi- 
nal of nations, which is by far the least equivocal, 
is not so difficult as might be imagined. We have 
had, and still have, travellers and missionaries who 
have attained the languages that are spoken in all 
the provinces of the new world ; it would only be 
necessary to make a collection of their grammmars 
and vocabularies, and to collate them with the dead 
and living languages of the old world, that pass for 
originals; and the similarity might easily be traced^ 



THEIR ORIGIN. 195 

Even the different dialects, in spite of the alterations 
they have undergone, still retain enough of the mo- 
ther tongue to furnish considerable lights. 

Any enquiry into the manners, customs, religion, 
or traditions of the Americans, in order to discover 
by that means their origin, he thinks would prove 
fallacious. A disquisition of that kind he observes, 
is only capable of producing a false light, more likely 
to dazzle, and to make us wander from a right path, 
iban to lead us with certainty to the point proposed. 

Ancient traditions are effaced from the minds of 
such as either have not, or for several ages have 
been without those helps, that are necessary to pre- 
serve them. And in this situation is full one half of 
the v/orld. New events, and a new arrangement of 
things, give rise to new traditions which efface the 
former, and are themselves effaced in turn. After 
one or two centuries have passed, there no longer 
remain any traces of the first traditions j and thus 
we are involved in a state of uncertainty. 

He concludes with the following remarks, among 
many others ; Unforeseen accidents, tempests, and 
shipwrecks, have certainly contributed to people 
every habitable part of the world : and ought we to 
wonder after this, at perceiving certain resem- 
blances, both of persons and manners between na- 
tions that are most remote from each other, when 
we fiml such a difference between those that border 
on one another ? As we are destitute of historical 
monuments, there is nothing, I repeat it, but a knov/- 
ledge of the primitive languages that is capable of 
throwing any light upon those clouds of impenetra- 
ble darkness. By this inquiry we should at least be 
satisfied, among that pi'odigious number of various 
nations inhabiting America, and differing so much 
in languages from each other, which are those who 
make use of words totally and entirely different 
from those of the old world, and who, consequently, 
must be reckoned to have passed over to America in 
the earliest ages, and those, who, from the analogy 
of their language with such as are at present used in 



196 THEIR ORIGIN. 

the three other parts of the globe, leave room to 
judge that their migTatioii has been more recent, 
and which ought to be attributed to shipwrecks, or 
to some accident similar to those wliich have been 
spoken of in the course of this treatise. 

I shall only add the opinion of one author more, 
before I give my own sentiments on the subject, and 
that is of James Adair, Esq. wlio resided forty years 
among the Indians, and published the history of 
them in the year 1772. In this learned and syste- 
matical history of those nations, inhabiting the wes- 
tern parts of the most southern of the American co- 
lonies : this gentleman, without hesitation, pronoun- 
ces that the American Aborigines are descended 
from the Israelites, either wliilst they were a mari- 
time power, or soon after their general captivity.—. 
This descent he endeavours to prove from their reli- 
gious rites, their civil and martial customs, their 
marriages, their funeral ceremonies, their manners, 
language, traditions, and from a variety of other 
particulais. And so complete is his conviction on 
this head, that he fancies lie finds a perfect simili- 
tude in each. Through all these I have not time to 
follow him, and shall therefore only give a few ex- 
tracts to show on what foundation he builds his con- 
jectures, and what degree of credit he is entitled to 
on this point. He begins with observing, that 
though some have supposed the Americans to be de- 
scended from tlie Chinese, yet neither their religion, 
laws nor customs, agree in the least with those of 
tiie Chinese ; which sr.fliciently prove tlrat they are 
not of this line. Besides, as our best ships are now 
almost half a year in sailing for China (our author 
does not here recollect tliat this is from a high north- 
ern latitude, across the line, and tlien back agai?i 
greatly to the northward of it, and not directly 
athwart the Pacific ocean, for only one hundred and 
eleven degrees) or from thence to Europe, it is very 
unlikely they should attempt such dangerous disco- 
veries, with their supposed small vessels, against ra- 
pid currents, and in dai'k and sickly monsoons. Be 



THEIR ORIGIN. 197 

f 
furtlier remarks, that this is more particularly im- 
probable, as there is reason to belieVe, that this na- 
tion was unacqnaintedwith the use of tiie loadstone 
to direct their course. China, he says, is about eight 
thousand miles distant from the Atlantic ocean. — 
And we are not informed by any ancient writer of 
their maritime skill, or so much as any inclination 
that way, besides small coasting voyages. The 
winds blo\v likewise, with little variation, from east 
to west within the latitudes thirty and odd, north and 
south ; and therefore these could not drive them on 
the American coast, it lying directly contrary to 
such a course. Neither could persons, according 
to this writer's account, sail to America from tlie 
nortli by the way of Tartary or ancient Scy thia ; 
that from its situation, never having been or can be 
a maratime power ; and it is utterly impractica- 
ble, he says, for any to come to Ameiica by sea 
from that quarter. Besides, tlie remaining traces 
of their religious ceremonies and civil and martial 
customs are quite opposite to the like vestiges of 
the Old Scythians, Ev^en in the moderate northern 
climates there is not to be seen the least trace of 
any ancient stately buildings, or of any thick set- 
tlements, as are said to remain in the less healthy 
I'egions of Peru and Mexico. And several of the In- 
dian nations assure us, that they crossed the Mis- 
sissippi before they made their present northern 
settlements ; which, connected with the former ar- 
guments, he concludes will sufficiently explode that 
weak opinion of the American Aborigines being 
lineally descended from the Tartars or ancient Scy- 
thians. 

Mr. Adair's reason for supposing that the Amer- 
icans derive their origin from the Jews, are, First, 
because they are divided into tribes, and have chiefs 
over them as the Israelties had. Secondly, because, 
as by a strict permanent divine precept, the Hebrew 
nation wei^ ordered to worship at Jerusalem, Je- 
hovah, the true and living God, so do the Indians, 
styling hiq;^ Yohewah. The ancient Heathens, he 



198 THEIR ORIGIN. 

adds, it is well known worshipped a plurality ot 
Gods, but the Indians pay their religious devoirs to 
the great beneficent supreme Iioly Spirit of Fire, 
who resides, as they think, above the clouds, and 
on earth also with unpolluted people. They pay no 
adoration to images or to dead persons, neither to 
the celestial luminaries, to evil spirits, nor to any 
created being whatever. Thirdly, because, agreea- 
bly to tlic theocracy of divine government of Israel, 
the Indians think the Deity to be the immediate 
head of their state. Fourthly, because, as the 
Jews believe in the ministration of Angels, the In- 
dian f- also believe, that the higher regions are inha- 
bited by good spirits. Fifthly, because the Indian 
language and dialects, appear to have the very 
idiom and genius of the Hebrew. Their words and 
sentences being expressive, concise, emphatical, 
sonorous, and bold, and often, both in letters and 
signification, are synonymous with the Hebrew 
language. Sixthly, because they count their time 
after the manner of the Hebrews. Seventhly, be- 
cause, in conformity to, or after the Jews, they 
have their j)rophets, high priests, and other religi- 
ous orders. Eightly, because their festivals, fasts, 
and religious rites have a great resemblance to those 
of the Hebrews. Ninthly, because the Indians, be- 
fore they go to war, have many preparatory cere- 
monies of purification and fasting, like what is re- 
corded of the Israelites. Tenthly, because the same 
taste for ornaments, and the same kind are made use 
of by the Indians, as by the Hebrews. These and 
many other arguments of a similar nature, Mr. Adair 
brings in support of his system ; but I should ima- 
gine, that if the Indians are really derived from the 
Hebrews, among their religious ceremonies, on 
which he chiefly seems to build his hypothesis, the 
principal, that of circumcision, would never have 
been laid aside, and its very remembrance oblitera- 
ted. Thus numerous and diverse are the opinions 
of those who have liitherto written on this subject ! 
I shall not however, either endeavour to reconcile 



THEIR ORIGIN. ±09 

them or point out the errors of each, hut to pro- 
ceed to give my own sentiments on the origin of the 
Americans ; which are founded on conclusions drawji 
from the ,most rational arguments of the writers I 
iiave mentioned, and from my own ohservations | 
the consistency of these I shall leave to the judg- 
ment of my readears. The hetter to introduce my 
conjectures on this head, it is necessary first to as- 
certain the distance between America and those 
parts of the habitable globe that approach nearest 
to it. The continent of America, as far as we can 
judge from all the researcJies that have been made 
near tlie poles, appears to be entirely seperated from 
the otiier quarters of tlie Avorld. That part of 
Europe which approaches nearest to it, is the coast 
of Greenland, lying in abaut seventy degrees of 
north latitude ; and w liich reaches within twelve 
degrees of the coast of Labrador, situate on the 
north-east borders of this continent. The coast of 
Guinea is the nearest part of Africa; which lies 
about eighteen Jiundred and sixty miles north-east 
from the Brazils. The most eastern coast of Asia 
which exten((s to the Korean Sea on the north of 
Cldna, projects nortli-east through 'eastern Tarta- 
ry and Kamschatka to Siberia, in about sixty de- 
grees of noi'th latitude. Towards which tJie west- 
ern coast of America, from Califoriiia to the Straits 
of Annian, extend nearly nurth-west, ajul lie in 
about forty -six degrees of the same iai itude. Whe- 
ilier the continent of America stretches any farther 
north tliaa t!icse straits, and joins ta the eastern 
parts of Asia agroeabl)' to what has been asserted 
by some of the writci's I have quoted, or whether the 
lands that have been discovered in the intermediate 
parts are only an archipelago of islands, verging 
towards tlie opposite continent, is not j et ascertain- 
ed. It being, however, certain tliat tjicre are man^ 
considerable isiaruls which lie between the extremi- 
ties of Asia and America, xiv, Japan, Ycso, or 
Jedsoj, fiama's Lavid, Bchring*s Isle, with many 
others discovered by Aschirikow, and besides these, 
R 



^00 THEIR ORIGIN. 

from 50 degrees north there appcai'ing to be a clus- 
ter of islands that reach as far as Siberia, it is pro 
bablc from their proximity to America, that it re 
ceived its iirst inhabitants from them. 

This conclusion is the most rational I am able 
to draw, supposini^ that since the Aborigines got 
footing on this continent, no extraordinary or sud- 
den change in the position or surface of it has ta,k- 
en place, from inundations, earthquakes, or any re- 
volutions of the earth that we are at present unac- 
quainted w itii, I'o me it appears highly improba- 
ble, that it should have been peopled from different 
quai^tcrs, aci-oss the ocean, as others have asserted. 
From the size of the ships made use of in those ear- 
ly a^^3, and the w ant of the compass, it cannot be 
sup]wsed that any maritime nation would by choice 
venture over the unfathomable ocean, in search oi" 
distant continents. Had this, however, been at- 
tempted, or had America been first accidentalh" 
peopled from ships freighted with passengers oi 
both sexes, which are driven by strong easterly 
winds across the Atlantic, these settlers must have 
retained some traces of the language of the coun- 
try fro^m whence they migrated: and this, since the 
discovery of it by the Europeans, must have been 
made out. 

It also appears extraordinary, that several of 
these accidental migrations, as* allowed by some, 
and these from different parts, should have taken 
place. Upon the whole, after the most critical in- 
quiries, and the maturest deliberation, I am of opi- 
nion, that America received it-s inhabitants from the 
N. Ei by way of the Great Archipelago just men- 
tioned, and from there alone. But this might ha^ e 
been effected at different times, and from various 
parts : from Tartary, China, Japan, or Kamschat- 
ka, the inhabitants of these places resembling each 
other in colour, features and shape; and who, before 
some of them acquired a knowledge of the arts and 
sciences, might have likewise resembled each other 
in their manners, customs, religion, and language. 



THEIR ORIGIN. 201 

The only difference between the Chinese nation and 
the Tartars lies in the cultivated state of the one, 
and the unpolished situation of others. The former 
have become a commercial people, and dwell in 
houses formed into i*e.^ular towns and cities ; the 
latter live chiefly in tents, and rove about in differ- 
ent hordes, without any fixed abode. Nor can the 
long and bloody wai»s these two nations have been 
engaged m, exterminate their hereditary similitude. 
1 lie present family of the Chinese emperors is of 
1 artarian extraction ; and if tliey were not sensi- 
ble ot some claim beside that of conquest so numer- 
ous a people would scarcely sit quiet under the do- 
nimion of strangers. It is very evident that some 
ot the manners and customs of the American Indi- 
ans resemble tJiose of the Tartars ; and I make no 
doubt but that in some future era, and this not a 
very distant one, it will be reduced to a certainty, 
that during some of the wars between the Tartars 
and the Chinese, a part of the inhabitants of the 
northern provinces were driven from their native 
country, and took reluge in some of the isles before 
mentioned, and from thence found their way int(> 
America. At different periods each natiou nr.zhl 
prove victorious, and the conquered by turns fly be- 
tore their conquerors, and from hence mi^ht arise 
the similitude of the Indians to all these people, 
and that animosity which exists between so niany of 
their tribes. It appears plainly to me, thatac-reat 
similarity between the Indians and Chinese is con- 
spicuous, m that particular custom of shaving or 
plucking off the hair, and leaving only a small tuf+ 
on tlie crown of the head. This mode is said co 
have been enjoined by the Tartarian empero->^ on 
their accession to the tlirone of China, am? conse- 
quently is a farther proof that this cust-^m was in 
use among the Tartars ,• to whom, a" well as the 
Chinese, the Americans might be indebted for it. 
Many words are also used by tho Chinese and Indi- 
ans, which have a resemblawce to each other, not 
only in the sound, ^but their signification. The 



202 TIIEIU ORIGIN. 

Cliinese call a slave slumcco ; and tlie Naudowe'Ssic 
Indians, whose language, from their little inter- 
course with the Europeans, is the least corrupted, 
term a dog shnngush. The former denominate one 
species of their tea, shousongj the latter call their 
tohacco shossau. Many other of the words used 
by the Indians contain the syllables, che, chaw, and 
ehu, after the dialect of the Cliinese. 

There probably might be found a similar connex- 
ion between the language of the Tartars and the 
American Aborigines, were we as well acquainted 
with it as we are, fi'om a commercial intercourse, 
with that of the Chinese. I am confirmed in these 
conjectures, by the accounts of Kamschatka, pub- 
lished a few years ago by order of the Empress of 
Russia. The author cf which sa} s, that the sea 
wliich divides that peninsula from America is full of 
islands ; and that the distance between Tschukosts- 
koi Noss, a promontory whicli lies at the eastern 
extremity of that country, and the coast of Ame- 
rica, is not more than two degrees and a half of a 
great circle. He further says, that there is the 
greatest reason to suppose, that Asia and America 
once joined at this place, as the coasts of both con- 
tinents appear to have been broken into capes and 
bays, which answer each other : more esjiecially as 
t;ie inhabitants of this part of both resemble each 
other in their persons, habits, customs and food. 
Their language indeed he observes, does not appear 
to be the same, but then the inliabitants of each dis- 
ti-ict in Kamschatka speak a language as difierciit 
from eacli other, as fiom that spoken on the oppo- 
'^■tc coast. These observations, to whicli he adds, 
A^'^ similarity of the boats of the inhabitants of each 
coastvijnd a remark that the natives of tliis part of 
America are wholly strangers to wine and tobacco, 
wliich he b>^ks upon as a jiroof that they have as yet 
liad no commiftucation v it h tiie natives of Euro])e, 
he says, amount v^ little h ss.than a demonstj-ation^ 
t>?at America w?s piy|ph d fiom tliis pai-t of Asia. 

The limits of my present undertaking will not 



rHEIR OlUGliV. 




ciety of gent einen, who were curious in such re- 
searches, and to «^.om I had communicated my sen- 
,™ „n "» *■!■«.?««* that I wouhl undertake a\!ur- 
Jl^' " u i^eceiving such supplies as were needful 
through the north-ea^t partJ^of Europe and Asia to 
ri!t f*®"*"", P*"'"** °'' America, and from EnS 
Jhete *«^ P™f «ded, such observations b!th on 

the doetine ft"' ^"'f ^"S ^^ "»«''* te'"' *» illustrate 
cuuosityot tlie learned or inquisitive : but as this 
proposal was judged rather to require a national 
ct«„n P'7^*%«"PP''«. it was not caVried into exe 
Z\n^:. am happy to find, since I formed the fore- 
feSe^?s.ff'°Jf '/''''* ^''^^ correspond with the 
nn.lf„ n 1. .""^^ S''^^^ and leariied historian. 
Boetor Robertson ; and though witl, I,im, 1 ac- 
knowledge that the investigatiln. from its nature 
hZ °'"^"*"*= and intricate, that the conjeetS 
have made can only be considered as coLet. res. 
and not indisputable conclusions, yet they carry 
with them a greater degree of probability, tha^the 
suppositions of those wlio assert that this continent 

^r-i^P'r •*^'""'"/"<**'f '• ^«»'"ter- Oneof the Doc- 
tor s quotations from the Journals of Behrinff and 
Tschmkow, who sailed from Kamschatk" about 
he year 1741 Inquestof the New World, aimcars 
to carry great weight with it, and to afford our coi! 
rfe'ff ™ ""PP*""* = ^^'^^ commanders, having 
shaped their course towards the east, discovered 
land, which to them appeared to be part of the 
American continent ; and according to their obser! 
vations. It seems to be situated within afew degrees 
of the north-west coast of California. They had 
there some intercourse witl, the inhabitants, who 



204 THEIR ORIGIN. 

seemed to them to resemble the North Americans ; 
as they presented to the Russians the calumet or 
pipe of peace ; wliich is a symbol of friendsliip 
universal among the people of North America and 
an usage of arbitrary institution pceular to them.'* 
One of this incomparable writer's own arguments m 
support of his hypothesis, is also urged with great 
judgment, and appears to be nearly conclusive. He 
'says, " We may lay it down as a certain principle in 
this inquiry, that America was not peopled by any 
nation of the ancient continent, which had made 
considerable progress in civilization. The inhabi- 
tants of the New World were in a state of society 
so extremely rude, as to be unacquainted with those 
arts which are the first essays of human ingenuity 
in its advance towards improvement. Even the 
most cultivated nations of America were stran- 
gers to many of those simple inventions, whicli were 
almost coeval with society in other parts of the 
world, and were known in the earliest periods of ci- 
vil life. From this it is manifest that the tribes 
which originally migrated to America came off from 
nations which must have been no less barbarous 
than their posterity, at tlie time when they were 
first discovered by the Europeans. If ever the usq 
of iron had been known to the savages of America, 
or to the progenitors, if ever they had employed a 
plough, a loom, or a forge, the utility of these in- 
ventions would have preserved them, and it is im- 
possible that they should have been abandoned or 
forgotten." 



OBSERVATIONS 

Made in a voyage, commencine^ at St. Catharine's Lmding-, on 
the east banlc of the Mississippi, proceeding aownvvardsto 
the mouth of the Red lliver, and from ihence ascending: that 
river, as hi-h as the Hot Springs, in the proximity of the 
last meniioned Riv^r, extracted from the Journals of W m. 
Dunbar, esq. and Doctor Huaier, 

MR. DUNBAR, Doctor Hunter, and tlie party 
emploved by the United States to make a survey of, 
and explore the country traversed by the Washita 
river, left St. Catharine's landing, on the Mississip- 
pi, in latitude 31. 26. 30. N. and longitude G\ 5. b6, 
W. from the meridian of Grcenwicli, on Tuesday 
the 16th of October, ISO i. A little distance below 
St. Catharine's creek, and five leagues from Nat- 
chez, they passed the White Cliffs, composed chic iiy 
of sand, surmounted by pine, and from one htmdred 
to two hundred feet high. When tlie waters of the 
Mississippi are low, tlie base of thecliif is uncover- 
ed, which consists of different coloured clays, and 
some beds of oclire, over which there lies, in some 
places, a tiiin lamina of iron ore. Small springs 
possessing a petrifying quality How over the clay 
and ochre, and numerous logs and pieces of timber, 
converted into stone are strewed about the beacli. 
. Fine pure argil of various colours, chiefly white 
and red, is found here. 

On tlie 17th they arrived at the mouth of the Red 
river, the confluence of which with the Mississippi, 
agreeably to the observations of Mr. de Ferrer lies 
in latitude 31. 1. 15. N. and longitude 6^. 7. 11. west 
of Greenwich. Red river is here about five hundred 
yards wide, and without any sensible current. The 
banks of the river are clothed with willow ; the 
land low and subject to inundation, t6 the height of 
thirty feet or more above the level of the water at 
this time. The mouth of the Red river is account- 
ed to be seventy -five leagues from New-Oileans, 



:i»6 OBSERVATIONS, cVc. 

and three miles higlier up than the Chafalaya, or 
Opclousa river, which was probably a continuation 
of the Red river when its waters did not unite with 
those pf the Mississippi, but during the inunda- 
tion. 

On the 18th the survey of the Red river was com- 
menced, and on the evening of the 19th the party 
arrived at the mouth of the Black river, in latitude 
31. 15. 48. N. and about 26 miles from the Missis- 
sippi. The Red river derives its name from the 
rich fat earth or marl, of that colour borne down 
by the floods ; the last of which appeared to have 
deposited on the Iiigh bank a stratum of upwards of 
half an inch in thickness. The vegetation on its 
banks is surprisingly luxuriant ; no doubt, owing to 
the deposition of marl during its annual floods. The 
willows grow to a good size ; but other forest trees 
are much smaller than those seen on the banks of the 
Mississippi. As you advance up the river, it gra- 
dually narrows ; in latitude 31. 08. N. it is about 
two hundred yards wide, which width is continued 
to the mouth of Black river, where each of them ap- 
pears one hundred and fifty yards across. The 
banks of the river are covered with pea vine, and 
several sorts of grass bearing seed, which , geese 
and ducks eat very greedily ; and there are gene- 
rally seen willows growing on one side, and on the 
other a small growth of black oak, paccawn, hicko- 
ry, elm, &c. The current in the Red river is so mo- 
derate, as scarcely to afford an impediment to its 
ascent. 

On sounding the Black river, a little above its 
mouth, there was found twenty feet of water, with 
a bottom of black sand. The water of Black river 
is rather clearer than the Ohio, and of a warm tem- 
perature, which it may receive from the water flow- . 
ing into it from the valley of Mississippi, particu- 
larly by the Catahoola. At noon on the 23d, by a 
ffood meridian observation, they ascertained their 
latitude to be 30. 36. 29 N. and were then a little 
below the mouths of the Catahoola, Washita, and 



OBSERVATIONS, Sec. 207 

Bavou Ter.za, the united waters of wliicli form 
the Black river. The currcsit is very gentle the 
whole lentgh of the Black river, which n many 
places docs not exceed eighty yards in width. The 
banks on tiie lower part of the river present a great 
luxuHance of vegitation and rank grass, witli red 
and black oak, ash, paccawn, hickory, and some 
elms. The soil is black marl, mixed with a mo- 
derate portion of sand, resemllng miicli the soil on 
the Mississippi banks ; yet the forest trees are 
not lofty, like those on the margin of the^ Great 
river, but resembling: the growth on the Red river. 
In latitude 31. 22. 46 TS. they observed that canes 
grew on several parts of the right bank, a proof 
that the land is not deeply oveY^liowed ; perhaps 
from one to three feet: the banks have the appear- 
ance of stability ; very little willow or ether pro- 
ductions of a newly formed soil on either side. On 
advancing up the river, the timber becomes larger, 
in Svime places rising to the height of fv»rty feet ; 
yet the land is liable to be inundated, not fi'om tlie 
waters of this small river, but from the intrusion 
of its more powerful neighbour the Mississippi. — - 
The lands decline rapidly, as in all alluvial coun- 
tries, from the margin to tlie cypress swamps, 
where more or less water stagnates all the year 
round. On the 21st they passed a small, but elevat- 
ed island, said to be the only one in tliis river for 
more than one hundred leagues ascend ng. On the 
left bank, near this island, a small settlement of a 
couple of acres has been begini by a man and his 
wife. The banks are not less than forty feet above 
the present level of tlie water in the river, and are 
but rarely overflowed ; on both sides they are cloth- 
ed witli rich cane b ak; , pierced by creeks (it to 
carry boats d -ring the inundation. 

Tiiey saw many cormorants, and the hooping 
crane; geese and ducks are nit yet abundant, but 
are said to arrive in myriads, with the rains and 
winter's cold. They s;\ot a fowl of the duck kind, 
wiiose foot was partially divided, and tiie body co- 



«a« OBSERVATIONS, ^c. 

vered with a bluish or lead coloured plumage. On 
the morning of the 22d, they observed green mat- 
ter floating on the river, supposed to come from the 
Catahoola and other lakes and bayous of stagnant 
water, wiiich, when raised a little by rain, flow in to 
the Black river ; and also many patches of an aqua- 
tic plant resembling small islands, some floating on 
the surface of the river, and others adhering to, or 
resting on the shore and logs. On examining this 
plant, it was found to have a hollow jointed stem, 
with roots of the same form, extremely ligJit, with 
very narrow willow shaped leaves projecting 
from the joint, embracing however, the whole of 
the tube, and extending to the next inferior joint 
or knot. The extren^iy of each branch is termi- 
nated by a spike of vevf slender, narrow seminal 
leaves from one to two inches in length, and one 
tenth, or less in breadth, producing its seed on the 
under side of the leaf, in a double row almost in 
contact : the grains alternately placed in perfect re- 
gularity ; not being able to find the flower, its class 
and order could not be determined, although it is not 
probably new. Towards the upper part of the 
Black river, the shores aL'ounded with muscles and 
perri winkles. The muscles were of the kind called 
pearl muscles. The men dressed a quantity of 
them, considering them as agreeable food : but Mr. 

D found them tough and unpalatable. 

( n arriving at the mouth of the Catahoola, they 
landed to procure information from a Frenchman 
settled ther-e. Having a grant from the Spanish 
government, he lias luade a small settlement, and 
keeps a ferry boat for carrying overmen and horses 
travelling to and from Natchez, and the settlements 
on Red river and on the Wasliita river. The coun- 
try here is all alluvial. In jn'oeessof time, the ri- 
ver shutting up ancient passages and elevating the 
banks over v/hich their waters pass, no longer com- 
municate with the same facility as foinneily ; the 
consequence is, that many larger tracts formerly 
subject to inundation are now entirely exempt from 
that inconvenience. Such is the situation of a 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. ft±± 

most valuable tract upon which this Frenchman is 
settled. His house stands on an Indian nioiBit, 
with several others in view. There is also a species 
of rampart surrounding this fplace, and one very 
elevated mount, a view and description of which is 
postponed till the return ztlieir present situation not 
allowing of the requisite delay. The soil is equal 
to the best Mississippi bottoms. 

From this place they proceeded to the mouth of 
Washita, in latitude 35. 37. 7. N. and encamped on 
the evening of the 23d. 

This river derives its appellation from the nam^' 
of an Indian tribe formerly resident on its banks ; 
the remnant of which, it is said, went into the great 
plains to the westward, and either compose a small 
tribe tliemselves, or are incorporated into anotlicr 
nation. Tlie Black river loses its name at the j unc- 
tion of Washita, Catahoola, and Tenza although 
our maps represent it as taking place of the Wa- 
shita. Tiie Tenza and Catahoola are also named 
from Indian tribes now extinct. The latter is a 
creek twelve leagues long, which is the issue of a 
lake of tlie same name, eight leagues in lengtli and 
about two leagues in bi-eadth. It lies west from the 
mouth of the Catahoola, and communicates with 
the Red river during the great annual inundation. 
At the west or northwest angle of the lake, a creek 
called Little River, enters, which preserves a chan- 
nel with running water at all seasons, meandering 
along the bed of the lake ; but in other parts its super- 
fices, during the dry season from July to November, 
and often later, is completely drained, and becomes 
covered with the most luxuriant herbage ,• the bed 
of the lake then becomes the residence of immense 
herds of deer, of turkeys, geese, cranes, &c. wliich 
feed on the grass and grain. Bayou Tenza serves 
only to drain off a part of the waters of tlie inun- 
dation from the low lands of the Mississippi, which 
here communicate with the Black river during the 
season of high water. 

Between the mouth of tlie Washita and Velle- 



Zitz OBSERVATIONS, ^c. 

mont's prairie on the right, the current of the" river 
is gentle, and the baniis favourable for towing. 
I'he lands on both sides have the appearance of be- 
ing above tlie inundation ; tlie timber generally such 
as high lands prodijcc, being chieliy red, white and 
black oaks, interspei'sed with a variety of other 
trees. The magnolia granditlora, that infallible 
sign of the land not being subject to inundation, is 
not, however among them. Along the banks a stra- 
tum of solid clay, or marl, is observable, apparent- 
ly of ancient deposition. It lies in oblique positions 
making an angle of nearly 30 degrees witli the ho- 
rizon, and generally inclined with the descent of tiie 
river, although in a few cases the position was con- 
trary. Timber is seen projecting from under tiie 
solid bank, which seems iudurated, and unquestion- 
ably very ancient, presentinga very ditlerent appear- 
ance from recently foi-medsoil. The liver is about 
80 yards wide. A league above the mouth of the 
Washita, the Bayou ilaha comes in unexpectedly 
from the right, and is one of the many passages 
through which the watej\s of the great inundation 
penetrate and pervade all the low countries, annihi- 
lating, for a time, the currents of the lesser rivers 
in the neighbourhood of the Mississippi. The a c- 
getation is remarkably vigorous along tlie alluvial 
banks, which are covered with a thick shrubbery, 
and innumerable plants in full blossom at tliis late 
season. 

Villemont's prairie is so named in consequence of 
its being included within a grant under the French 
government to a gentleman of tliat name. Many 
other parts on the Washita are named after their 
c arly proprietors. The French people projected 
and began extensive settle menls on tliis river ', but 
the general massacre phmned, and in part executed 
by the Indians against them, and the consequcrst 
destruction of tlie Natchez tribe by the French, 
Iroke up all these nnderlakiiigs, and they were not 
r< commeiiced under that g ivernment. Th«ise pr. i- 
ries arc plains, or savannas, without timber ; gent- 



OBSERYATIOXS, kn, 215 

rally very fertile, and producin- an exuberance of 
stron,:^, thick and coarse hcrbai-e. Wiicn a piece of 
ground has once g-ot into this state, in an Indian 
country, it can have no opportunity of rc-produc- 
ing ti.nber, it bcin^- an invariable practice to set iire 
to dry ,-rass m the fail or winter, to obtain the ad- 
vantage oi attackin- gaaie when tlie youno; tender 
grass begiii^ to spring : this destroys tlie youns: 
timber; and the prairie annually .e^iins upon thi 
wood-land. It IS probable tliat the imniense plains 
knf)\yn to exist m America, may owe their oriain 
to tuis cusfcoNi. Tne plains of the Washita lies chfef- 
ly on the east side, and being- generally formed like 
trie \Iississippi land, sloping from the bank of the 
river to tiie great river, they are more or less sub- 
ject to inundation in tlie rear ; and in certain ffreat 
floods the water has advanced so far as to beiT^ady 
to pour over the margin into the Wasliita. This 
has now becoine a very rare thing, and it may be 
estimatec tnat troni a quarter of a mile to a mile hi 
depth, wil remain free from inundation during IiigL 
floods. This IS i)retty much the case witif those 
lands nearly as high as the post of the Washita, 
with tne exception of certain ridges of primitive 
li^gh-land ; the res being evidently alluvial, aitho' 
not now subject to be inuudatcd bvthe Washita ri- 
ver, in consequence of the great \lepth which the 
bed of tae river has acquired bv abrasion. On an- 

^^^u^^T'^'i^' ^^'^^^ ^^^'^^' ^^"^^ «i»Pti^ 
oVih^^-J-f n ' ^>''^''^ ""'' ^^ ^"^-'^t, a little be- 
.T'. .^r^^'/ • -f '*^ '" .^ ^'^^^^^ '^''^^ < ^'iA-li land on 
bota sides, which produces pine and other timber, 
not the growth of nundation lands. Atthe footof' 
tae rajmls, the navigation of the river is impeded by 
he beds of gravels formed in it. The first rapids 

ttre^f'''"r'^^ ^'- 't 5.N. a little above wS 
there is a high ridge oi primitive earth, studded 
with abundance of fragments of rocks, 0^™ 
which appear to have bel^n thrown up to the surface 
in a very irregular manner. Thestone is of afrta! 
ble nature, some of it having the appearance of h^ 



5>li OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

(liiratcd clay; the outside is blackish from expo- 
sure to tljc air ; within it is a grayish white ; it is 
said that in the hill the strata are regular and that 
good grindstones may be liere obtained. The last 
of the rapids, which is formed by a ledge of rocks 
•rossing the entire bed of the river, was passed in 
t lie evening of the 27th ; above it the water became 
again like a mill-pond and about one hundred yards 
wide. The whole of these first shoals, or rapids, 
embraced an extent of about a mile and a half : the 
obstruction was not continued, but felt at short in- 
tervals in tliis distance. On the right, about four 
leagues fr'om tlie rapids, they passed the " Bayou 
Vux Bceufs/' a little above a rocky hill : higli lanck 
and sava.nnas are seen on the right. On sounding 
ihe river they found three fathoms water on a bot- 
tom of mud and sand. The banks of the river 
above the bayou, seem to retain very little alluvial 
•^oil : the highland earth, which is a sandy loam of a 
light gray colour, witb streaks of red sand and 
i lay, is seen f>n the left bank ; the soil not rich, 
l^earing pines, interspersed with red oak, hickory, 
iind dog-wood. The river is from sixty to one hun- 
dred yards wide here, but decreases as you advance, 
riie next rapid is'madeby a ledge of rocks travers- 
ing tlie river, and narrowing the water channel to 
iibout thirty yards. I'he width between the higli 
Winks cannot be less than one hundred yards, and 
the banks from tiiirty to forty feet higlu In lati- 
tude 3-2. 10. 13. rapids and shoals again occurred, 
find the channel was very narrow ; tlie sand-bars, 
at every point, extended so far i tito the bend as to 
leave little more than the breadth of the boat of ^\'^- 
(er sufficiently deep for her passage, iilthough it 
spreads over* the width of seventy or eighty yards 
upon the shoal. 

In the afternoon of the 31st, they passed a little 
])lantatlon or settlement on the right, and at niglst 
arrived at three others adjoining ^ach oilier. These 
settlements are on a plain or prairie, 1 lie soil ol 
-vvliieh we may be assun d is alluvial from the rcgu 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 215 

lar slope which the land has from the river. Tlic 
bed of the river is now sulBciently deep to free them 
from the inconvenience of its inundation ; yet in 
the rear, the waters of the Mississippi approach, 
and sometimes leave dry but a narrow strip aion^* 
the bank of the river. * It is however, now more 
common, that the extent of tlie fields cultivated 
(from i: to I milej remains dry during tlie season of 
iiiundation : the soil here is very good, but not equal 
to the, Mississippi bottoms ; it may be esteemed se- 
cond rate. At a small distance to the east are ex- 
tensive cypress swamps, over wliich the waters of 
the inundation always stand to the depth of from 
lifi^ecn to twenty -five feet. On the west side after 
passing over the valley of the river, whose breadth 
varies fi'om a quarter of a mile to two miles, or 
more, the land assumes a considerable elevation, 
from one hundred to three hundred feet, and extends 
all along to the settlements of the Red river. 
These high lands, are reported to be poor, and bad- 
ly watered, being chiefly what is termed a pine bar- 
ren. There is here a ferry and road of communica- 
tion between the post of the Washita, andtlic Nat- 
chez, and a fork of this road passes to the settlement 
called the rapids, on Red river, distance from this 
place by computation one hundred and fifty miles. 

On this part of the river, lies a considerable ^ract 
of land granted by the Spanish goveriunent to tlie 
JSIarcjuis of Maison Rouge, a French emigrant, 
who bequeathed it with all his property to M. Bou- 
ligny, son of the late colonel of the Louisiana regi- 
ment^ and by him sold to Daniel Clarke. It is said 
to extend from the post of Washita with a breadth 
of tliQ two leagues, including the river, down to the 
Bayf)u Calumet ; the computed distance of which 
ahnjgthe river is called thirty leagues, but suppos- 
ed not more than twelve in a direct line. 

On the 6th of November, in the afternoon, the 
party arrived at the post of tlic AVashita, in lati- 
tude 32; 29. 37. 2.^. N. where they were politelv 
received by lieut. Bovvmar, who innnediately offer- 



a 6 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

€i\ the hospitality of his dwelling with ail the ser- 
vice s in his power. 

From tlie ferj-y to this place, the r.aA^igation of 
tlic river is, at this season, interrupted by many 
siioals and rapids. The general width is from 
eiglity to a hundred yards. The water is extreme- 
ly agreeable to drink, and much clearer tlian that of 
tiic Ohio. In this respect it is very nnlike its two 
iieighboiirs, the Aikansa and Red rivers, \\ Ihsc 
waters are loaded with earthy Matters of a reddish 
fcrown colour, giving to tlicm a chocolate like ap- 
piaracce ; and, when those w aters are low, are 
not portable, being brackish from the great number 
of sait^ springs which liow into them, and probably 
fi om the beds of reck salt over w hich they may pass. 
The banks of the river jresented very little ap- 
pearance of alluvial land, but furnished an infini- 
tude of beautiful landscapes, heightened by the vi- 
vid colouring they derive from the autumnal chang- 
es of tlie leaf. Mr. Dunbar observes, that the 
ohange of colour in the leaves of vegetables, which 
is probably occasioned by the oxygen of the atmos- 
phere acting on the vegetable matter, deprived of 
the piotecting power of vital principle, may serve 
as an excellent guide to the naturalist who directs 
hi& attention to a discovery of new objects for the 
lise of t]ie dyer. For lie has always remarked that 
the leaves of these tieos whose bark or wood aic 
known to produce a dye, arc changed in autumn to 
the same colour which is extracted in the dyer's vat 
from the wcod ; more especially by the nse of mor- 
dants, as allum, A c. which yields oxygen : Ihi^thc 
fuiiagc of the hickory and oak, which produce the 
queroitron bark, is changed before its fall into a 
beautiful yellow ; other oaks assume a fawn colour, 
a liver colour, or a blood colour, and are known to 
yield dyes of the same complexion. 

lu latitude ;>2. IS. N. Doctor Hunter discovered 
aUmgiherivcv side a substance nearly resembling 
mineral coal ; its appearance was that of the car- 
l^onuted wood descriUed by Kirwan. It does net 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 217 

easily burn j but on bein,^ applied to the flame of a 
candle, it sensibly increased it, and yiel.ied a faint 
smell, resembling' in a slight degree, that of the 
gum lac of common sealing-wax. 

Soft friable stone is common, and great quantities 
of gravel and sand, upon the beaches in this part of 
the river. A reddish clay appears in the strata, 
much indurated and blackened by exposure to the 
light and air. 

The position called Fort Miro, being tlie property 
of a private person, ^vho was formerly civil com- 
mandant here, the lieutenant has taken povSt about 
four hundred yards lower ; has built himself some 
log houses, and inclosed them with a sligiit stock- 
ade. Upon viewing the country east of the river, 
it is evidently alluvial ; the surface has a gentle 
slope from the river t^ the rear of the plantations. 
The land is of excellent quality, being a rich black 
mould to the depth of afoot, under which there is a 
friable loam of a brownish liver colour. 

At the post on the Washita, they procured a boat 
of less draught of water than the one in which they 
ascended the river thus far ; at noon, on the 11th of 
November, they proceeded on the voyage, and in 
the evening encamped at the plantation of Baron 
Bastrop. 

This small settlement, on the Washita and some 
of the creeks falling into it, contains not more than 
five hundred persons, of all ages and sexes. It is 
Imported, however, that there is a great quantity of 
excellent land upon these creeks, and that the settle- 
ment is capable of great extension, and may be ex- 
pected, with an accession of population, to become 
very flourishing. There are tlirec merchants set- 
tled at the post, wlio supply, at very exorbitant pi'ic- 
es, the inhabitants with their necessaries ; these, 
with the garrison, two small planters, and a trades- 
man or two, constitute the p-.Tsent village. A 
great proportion of the inhabitants eantinue the old 
practice of hunting, during the winter season 5 and 
iliey exchanice their peltry for necessaries, with the 
S 2 



^18 OBSERVATIONS, 6uc. 

merchants, at a low rate. During the summer 
tliese people content themselves with raising corn 
barely sufficient for hread during the year. In this 
manner they always remain extremely poor. Some 
few who have conquered that habit of indolence, 
which is always the consequence of the Indian mode 
of life, and attend to agTicnlture, live more comfort- 
ably, and taste a little of the sweets of civilized 
life. 

I'he lands along the river, above the post, are 
not very inviting, being atliin poor soil, and cover- 
ed with pine wood. To the right, the settlements 
on the bayou Barthclemi and Siard, are said to be 
rich land. 

On the morning of the thirteenth, they passed an 
island and a strong rapid, and arrived at a little set- 
tlement below a chain of rocks, which crosses the 
chaimel between an island and the main land, called 
Roqne Raw. The Spaniard and his family, settled 
here, appear, from their indolence to live mfeerably. 
The river acquires here a more spacious appear- 
ance, being about one hundred and fifty yards wide. 
In the afternoon they passed the bayou Barthelemi 
on the right, above the last settlements, and about 
twelve computed leagues from the post. Here 
commences Baron Bastrop's great grant of land 
from the Spanish government, being a square of 
twelve leagues on each side, a little exceeding a 
million of French acres. The banks of the river 
continue about thirty feet high, of which eighteen 
feet from the water are a clayey loam of a pale ash 
colour, upon which the water has deposited twelve 
feet of light's sandy soil, apparently fertile and of a 
dark brown colour. This description of land is of 
small breadth, not exceeding half a mile on each 
side of the river, and may be called the valley of the 
Washita, beyond which there is h^gh land covered 
with pine. 

The soil of the " Bayou des Buttes," continues 
thin, witli a growth of small timber. This creek is 
named from a number of Indian mounts discovered 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. iil9 

by the hunters along its course. The margin of the 
river begins to be covei'ed with such timber as usu- 
ally grows on inundated land, particuhirly a spe- 
cies of wliitc oak, vulgarly called the over-cup oak; 
its timber is lem ark ably hard, solid, ponderous, and 
durable ; and it produces a large acorn in great 
abundance, upon which the bear feeds, and which is 
very fiittening to hogs. 

In latitude 32. 50. 8. N. they passed along and 
narrow island. The face of the country begins to 
change; the banks are low and steep; the river 
deep and more contracted, from thirty to lilty yards 
in width. The soil in tlie neighbourhood of the ri- 
ver is a very sandy loam, and covered with such ve- 
getables as are found on the inundated lands of the 
Mississippi. The tract presents the appearance of 
a new soil, very different from what they paswsed be- 
low. This allmial tract may be supposed the site 
of a great lake, drained by a natural channel, from 
the abrasion of the waters : since which period, the 
annual inundations have deposited the superior 
soil ; eighteen or twenty feet are wanting to render 
it habitable for man. U appears, nevertheless, well 
stocked with the beasts of the forest, several of 
which were seen. 

Quantities of water fowl are beginning to make 
their appearance, which are not very numerous here 
until the cold rains and frost compel them to leave a 
more northern climate. Fish is not so abundar?^ as 
might be expected, owing, it is said, to the inundati- 
on of the Mississip]>i, in the year 1790, which dam- 
med pp the Washita, some distance above the post, 
andpt*oduced a stagnation and consequent corrupti- 
on of the waters that destroyed all the hsh witMn 
its influence. 

At noon, on tlie 15th November, they passed the 
island of jSlaUet^: and at ninety yavds nortli-east 
from the upper f>oint of the island, by a good obser- 
vation ascertainedl heir latitude t(; be 32. 59. 27, 5, 
N. or two secondhand an :ha]f of latitude south of 
thedividm^ line betvveenthe territories of Orleans 



220 OBSERVATIONS, &c, 

and Louisiana. The bed of tlie river, along this 
alluvial country, is generally covered with water, 
and the navigation uninteiTupted ; hut in the after- 
noon of this day, they passed three contiguous sand- 
bars, or beaches, called " Les trois battures," and 
before evening the ** bayou de grand Marais," or 
Great Marsh creek on the right, and " La Cypreri 
Chattelrau," a point of high land on the other side, 
which reaches within half a mile of the river. As 
they advanced towards the Marais de Saline, on the 
right, a stratum of dirty white clay, under the al- 
luvial tract, showed them to be leaving the sunken, 
and approaching the high land country- The Salt 
Lick marsh, does not derive its name from any 
brackishness in the water of the lake or marsh, but 
from its contiguity to some of the licks, sometimes 
called ** saline," and sometimes " glaise," general- 
ly found in a clay, compact enough for potter's 
ware. The bayou de la Tulipe forms a communi- 
cation between the lake and the river. Opposite 
to this place, there is a point of high land forming 
a promontory, advancing within a mile of the river, 
and to whicirboats resort when the low grounds are 
under water. A short league above is the mouth 
of the grand bayou de la Saline (Salt Lick creek.) 
This creek is of a considerble length and navigable 
for small boats. The hunters ascejid it, to one hun- 
dred of their leagues, in pursuit of game, and all 
agree that none of the springs which feed this creek 
are salt. It has obtained its name from the many 
buffalo salt licks which have been discovered in 
its vicinity. Although most of these licks, by dig- 
ging, furnish water which holds marine salt in so- 
lution, there exists no reason for believing, that 
many of them would produce nitre. Notwithstand- 
ing, this low and alluvial tract appears in all res- 
pects well adapted to the growth of the long moss 
(tilandsia) none was observed si'fece entering it 
in latitude 32. 52 ; and as the pilot informed them, 
none would be seen in their ])rogress up the river^ 
it is probable that the latitude ©f thirty -three de- 



OBSERVATIONS &c. 221 

grees is about the nortiiern limit of vegetation. 
i'hc long-leaf pine, frequently the growth of rich 
and even inini dated land, was here observed in 
great abundance : the short-leafed or pitch pine, 
on the contrary, is always found upon arid lands 
and generally in sand\ and lofty situations. 

This is the season when the poor settlers on the 
Washita turn out to make tlieir annual hunt. The 
deer is now fat and the skins in perfection ; the 
bear is now also in his best state, with regard to the 
quality of his fur, and tlie quantity of fat or oil he 
yields, as he has been feasting luxuriously on the 
autumnal fruits of the forest. It is here well known, 
that he does not confine himself, as some writers 
have supposed, to vegetable food ; he is particularly 
fond of hog's flesh : shetp and calves are frequently 
his prey; and no anin^al escapes liim which comes 
within his power, and wldch he is able to conquer. 
lie often destroys the fawn, when chance throws it 
in his way. He cannot, however, discover it by 
smelling, notwithstanding the excellence of his 
scent ; for nature has, as if for its protection, deni- 
ed the fawn the property of leaving any effluvium 
upon its track, a property so powerful in the old 
deer.^ The bear, unlike most other beasts of prey, 
does not kill tiie animal he has seized upon before ho 
eats it ; but, regardless of its struggles, cries, and 
lamentations, fastens upon, and if the expression is 
allowable, devours it alive. The hunters count 
much on their profits from the oil drawn from the 
bear's fat, which, at New-Orleans, is always of 
ready sale, and much esteemed for its wholesome- 
ness in cooking, being preferred to butter or hog's 
1 ard. it is fo li r. d to kc c^) iongc r tb an a ny other ani- 
mal oil, without becoming rancid ; and boiling it 
from time to time, upon sweet bay leaves, restores 
its sweetness, c^* facilitates its conservation, 

* It may not be generally known to naturalists, that between 
the hoof of iho deer, ^c. thtre is found a sack, with its mouth 
incVmih^ upwards, containin,,^ nioi e or less musk, and which by 
escaping over the opening-, in proportion to the secretion, causes 



222 OBSERVATIONS, Sec. 

In the afternoon on the 17th they passed somt' 
sand beaches, and over a few rajuds. They had 
cane brakes on both sides ol' tiie river ; the canes 
were small, but demonstrate that the water does 
not suniiount the bank more than a few feet. 
Tlie river bt'gins to widen as they advance ; the 
banks of tlie river show the high land soil, with 
a str turn of (h ee or four feet of alluvian depo- 
sited by the river upon it. This superstratum 
is greyish, and very sandy, with a small admix- 
ture of loam, indicative of tiie poverty of the 
mountains and uplands where the river rises. 
Near this they passed through a new and very 
narrow channel, in which all the water of the river 
passes, except in time of freshes, when the inter- 
val forms an island. A little above this pass is a 
small clearing, called " Cache la Turlipe'* (Tu- 
lip's hiding place); this is the name of a French 
hi;nter who here concealed his property. It conti- 
nues the practice of both thcAvhite and red hunters 
to leave their skins, &c. often suspended to poles, 
or laid over a pole placed upon two forked posts, 
in sight of the river until their return from hunt- 
ing. These deposits are considered as sacred, 
and few examples exist of their being plundered. 
After passing the entrance of a bay, whicji with- 
in must form a great lake during the inundation, 
great numbers of the long-leaf pine were obsei'ved ; 
and tlie increased size cf the canes along the ri- 
ver's bank, denoted a better and more elevated 
foil .; on tlie left v, as a high hill (three hundred 
feet) covered with lofty pine trees. 

The banks of the river present more the ap- 
j earaucc of upland soil, the under stratum being 
a pale yellowish clay, aiid the alluvial soil of a 
dirty white, surmounted by a thin covering of a 
brown vegetable earth. The tre^ improve in ap- 

the foot to leave a scent on the groiirid wherever it passes. Du- 
ring- the rutting- season, this ir.usk is so abundant (pai ticularly 
in old males) us to Le smeUed by ibe b-;-" "^ - ^ a considerable 
distance. 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. ii23 

peaiimce, growing to a considerable size -and 
lu?ight, though yet inferior to those on the alluvial 
banks of the Mississippi. After passing the "Ba- 
you de Haehis,'* on the left, points of high land 
not subject to be overflowed, frequently touch the 
liver; and the valley is said to be more than a 
liea,!^ue in breadth on botli sides. On the left are 
pine hills, called '' Codo de Cljampignole." The 
river is not more than fifty oi^ sixty yards wide : 
On the morning of the 20th they passed a number 
of sand beaches and some rapids, but found good 
depth of water between them. A creek called 
*^ Chemin Convert," which forms a deep ravine in 
the highlands, liere enters the river ; almost im- 
mediately above this is a i*apid where the water 
in the river is confined. to a channel of about forty 
yards in width ; above it they had to quit the main 
« hannel, on account of the shallowness and ra- 
pidity of the water, and pass along a narrow chan- 
nel of only sixty feet wide: without a guide, a 
stranger might take this passage for a creek. 

Noth withstanding the lateness of tlie season, 
and the northern latitude they were in, they this 
day met with an alligator. The banks of the ri- 
ver are covered with cane, or thick nnder-bru^h, 
frequently s5 interwoven with thonis and briars 
as to be impenetrable. Birch, maple, holly, and 
two kindl of wood, to which names have not yet 
bten given, except ** water-side v/ood," are here 
to be met with ; as also persimmons and small 
black grapes. The margin of the river is fringed 
Vvith'a variety of plants and vines, among which 
urc several species of convolvulus. 

On the left they passed a hill asid cliff, one hun- 
(»red feet perpendicular, crowned with pines, and 
called •• Cote de Fin," (Fin's hill) from whijc^h a 
cliain of high Iflftd continues some distance. The 
cliff presents the appearance of an ash coloured 
clay. A little fartlier to the right is the Bayou de 
Acacia (Locust ci-eek.) The river variesliere from 
r'ighty to an Iiundred yarcls in width, presenting 



22i, OBSERVATIONS, kc. 

frequent indications of iron aloni^ its banks and 
so^ne thin strata of iron ore. The ore is from half 
an inch to tltree incaey in thickness. 

On the mornin.Ji: of tiie 2M of November, they 
arrived at the ro.id of the Chadadoquis Indian 
nation leading i,v> liic xirkansa nation ; a little be- 
yond this 13 the »^cor a i< abri (Fabri'S cliils) from 
eighty to an iuindi-eil feet high ; a little distance 
above, a smaller cUif called **Le Petit Eror a 
Fabri" (the little Cliff of Fabri :) these ciifts ap- 
pear chiefly to be composed of asii coloured sand, 
v^^ich a stratum of clay at the base, such as runs all 
along under the banks of this river. Above these 
cliffs are several rapids ; the current is swii'ter and 
denotes their ascent into a Higher countrv : the 
water becomes clear and equal to any in its very 
agreeable taste, and as drinking w ater. In the ri- 
ver are immense beds of gravel and sand, over 
which the river passes with great velocity in the 
season of its floods, carrying with it vast quan- 
tities of drift wood, which it piles up in many 
places, to the height of twenty feet above the pre- 
sent surface, pointing out the difficulty and danger 
m certain times of the flood; accidents, however, 
ai'erare with the canoes of the countiy. 

As the party ascended they found f^e banks of 
the river less elevated, being only from nine to 
twelve feet, and are ])robably surmountcfd soni?' 
feet by the freshes. Hie river becomes more ob- 
structed by j^apids and sand and gravel beaches*; 
among which are found fragments of stone of all 
forms, and a variety of colours, some hiii'ldv po- 
lished and rounded by friction. The banks of the 
river in this upper country suffer greatly by abra- 
sion, one side and sometimes both being broken 
down by every flood. 

At a place called " Auges d' Arefen." (Arelon's 
troughs) is laminated iron ore, and a stratum of 
black sand, very tenacious, shining with minute 
chrystals. The breadth of the river is here about 
eighty yards: ixj some places, h wever.itisenlarg- 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. ^22S 

ed by islands, in others contracted to eighty or one 
hundred feet. Rocks of a greyish colour, and ra- 
ther friable, are here found in many places on the 
riv er. On the banks grow willows of a different 
form from those found below, and on the margin of 
the Alississippi ; the last are very brittle ; these on 
the contrary are extremely pliant, resembling the 
osier, of which they are probably a species. 

At noon on the 2ith, they arrived at the conflu- 
ence of the Lesser Missouri with the Washita ; the 
former is a considerable branch, perhaps the fourth 
of the Washita, and comes in from the left hand. 
The hunters often ascend the Little Missouri, but 
are not inclined to penetrate far up, because it 
reaches near the great plains or prairies upon the 
Red river, visited by the Lesser Osage tribes of 
Indians, settled on Arkansa ; these last frequently 
carry war into the Cadadoquis tribe settled on the 
Red river, about west sout!i-west from this place ; 
and indeed they are reported not to spare any na- 
tion or people. They are prevented from visiting 
the head waters of the Washita by tlic steep hills in 
\yhich they rise. These mountains are so dirficult 
to travel over, that the savages not having an object 
sulHciently desirable, never attempt to penetrate to 
this river ; and it is supposed to he unknown to this 
nation. The Cadadoquis (or Cadaux as the French 
pronounce the word) may be considered as Spanish 
Indians ; they boast, antl it is said with truth that 
they never have imbrued their hands in the blood 
of a white man. It is said tliat the strcaiu of the 
Little Missouri, some distancefrom its moutfi, flows 
over a bright splendid bed of mineral of a yellowish 
wliite colour, (most probably martial pyrites ;) that 
thirty years ago, several of tlie inliabitants, hun- 
ters, worked upon this mind, and sent a quantity of 
the ore to. the governinent at New-Orleans, and 
they were prohibited from woiking any more. 

There is a great sameness in the aj)pearance of 
the river bai\ks ; the islands u'c skirted with osier; 
and immediately witlii?!, on the bank, grows a 
T . 



S26 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

range of birch trees and some willows ; the rnorc 
elevated banks are covered with cane, amon^^ which 
grows the oak, maple, elm, sycamore, ash, hickory, 
dog-wood, holly, iron-wood, &c. From the pilot 
they learned that there is a body of excellent land 
on the Little Missouri, particularly on the creek 
called the ** Bayou a terre noire," which falls into 
it. This land extends to Red river, and is connect- 
ed with the great prairies which form the huntijig 
grounds of the Cadaux nation, consisting of about 
two hundred warriois. They are warlike, but fre- 
quently unable to defend themselves against tlic 
tribe of Osages, settled on the Arkansa river, who, 
passing round tlie mountains at the head of the 
Washita, and aloiig the prairies, which separate 
them from the main chain on the west, where the 
waters of the Red and Arkansa rivers have their 
rise, pass into the Cadaux country and lob and 
plunder them. 

The water intlie river Washita rising, the party 
arc enabled to pass the numerous rapids and slioals 
which they meet with in the upper country ; some 
of which 'are difficult of ascent. The general 
height of the main banks of the river is from six to 
twelve tect above the ic^ ei of the water ; the land 
is better in quality, the canes, ^c. showing a more 
luxuriant vegetation. It is subject to inundation, 
and shows a brown soil mixed with salrid. Near 
Cache Mason (Mason's hiding place) on the right, 
they stopped to examine a supposed coal mine. 
Doctor Hunter, and the pilot, set out for this pur- 
p< se, and at about a mile and a lialf north west 
li om the boat, in the bed of a creek, tlicy four.d a 
substai'.ee similar to what they had before r/.etwith 
undci' that name, tliough more advanced towr^rds o, 
state of perfect coal. At the bottom of tlic freek 
in a place then dry, was found detached pieces of 
from fjfty to one hundred pounds weight : adjoiii 
ing to which lay wood changed into the same suh- 
tttance. A stratum of tins coal* six ir.ciies tlack, 
lav on both sides of this littic rrcck, - T^r atiothi r 



OBSERVATIONS, Sec. 227 

of yellow clay, and covered by one foot of gravel ; 
on the gravel are eight inches of loam, which bear 
a few inches of vegetable mold. This stratum of 
coal is about three feet higher than the water in the 
creek, and appears manifestly to have been at some 
period, tlie surface of the ground. The gravel and 
loam have been deposited there since, by the wa- 
ters. Some pieces of this coal were very black 
and solid, of an homogeneous appearance, much re- 
sembling pit coal, but of less specific gravity. It 
docs not appear to be sufficiently impregnated with 
bitumen, but may be considered as vegetable matter 
in the progress of transmutation to coal. 

Below the " Bayou de I'eau froidc," which runs 
into the Washita from the right, the river is one 
hundred and seventy yards, flowing through tolera- 
ble good land. They passed a beautiful forest of 
pines, and on the 28th fell in witli an old Dutch 
hunter and his party, consisting in all of five per- 
sons. 

This man had resided forty years on the Washita, 
and before that period, had been up the Arkansa 
river, the White river, and the St. Francis ; the 
two last, he informs, are of difficult navigation, simi- 
lar to the Washita ; but the Arkansa river is of 
great magnitude, having a large and broad channel, 
and when the water is low, has great sand banks, 
like those in the Mississippi. So far as he has been 
lip it, the navigation is safe and commodious, witli- 
out impediments from rocks, shoals, or rapids ; its 
bed being ibrmed of mud and sand. The soil on it 
i.s of the first rate quality. The country is easy 
of access, being lofty open forests, unembarressed 
by canes or undergrowth. The water is disagreea- 
ble to drink, being of a red colour ajid brackish 
when the river is low. A multitude of creeks winch 
flow into the Arkansa furnish sweet water, which 
the voyager is obliged to carry witli him for the 
supply of his immediate wants. This man con- 
firms the accounts of silver being abundant up that 
river : he Iras i^ot been so high as too sec it himself, 



228 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

hut says, he received a silver pin from a hunter, who 
assured him that he himself collected the virgin sil- 
ver from the rock, out of which he made the eping- 
lete hy hammering it out. The tribe of the Osage 
live higher up than this position ; but the hunters 
ffarely go so high, being afiaid of these savages, 
who are at war with all the world, and desti-oy all 
strangers they meet with. It is reported that the 
Arkansa nation, with a part of the Choctaws, 
Chickasaws, Shawnese, &c. have formed a league, 
and ai'e actually gone, or going, 800 strong, against 
these depredators, with a view to destroy or drive 
ihcm entirely off, and possess themselves of their 
iine prairies, which are most abundant hunting 
grounds, being plentifully stocked with buffalo, 
elk, deer, bear, and every other beast of the chase 
♦'onimonto tiiose latitudes in America. 1 his hun- 
ter having given information of a small spring 
in their vicinity, from which he frequently supplied 
himself by evifj: orating the water; doctor Hunter, 
with a party, accompanied him, on the morning of 
the 29th jSiOVcmber, to the place. They Ibund a 
saline, about a mile and a half north of the camp 
fi om whence they set out, and near a creek which 
enters the Washita a little above. It is situated in 
the bottom of the bed of a dry gully. The surround- 
ing land is rich and well timbered, but subject to 
inundation, except an Indian mount on the creek 
side, having a base of eighty or an hundred feet 
diameter, and twenty feet high. After digging 
[ihout three feet, through blue clay, they came to 
a quick sand, from whicli the water flowed in abun- 
dance : its taste was salt and bitter, resembling that 
of water in the ocean. In a second hole it required 
them to dig six feet before they reached the quick- 
sand, in doing which they threw up several broken 
pieces of Indian pottery. The specific gravity, 
compared with the river, was, from the first pit, or 
that three feet deep, 1.02720 ; from the second pit, 
or that six feet deep, 1.02104, yielding a saline 
mass, from the evaporation of len quarts, whi'-^t 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 229 

when dry, weighed eight ounces : this hrine is, 
therefore, about the sauic strengtti as that of the 
ocean on our coast, and twice the strength of the 
famous licks in Kentucky called Bullet's lick, and 
Man's lick, from which so much salt is made. 

Tlic **Fourche de Cadaux" (Cadadoquis fork) 
which they passed on the morning of the 30th, is 
about one hundred yards wide at its entrance into 
the Washita, from the left ; immediately beyond 
which on the same side, the land is high, probably 
elevated tiirec hundred feet above the water. The 
shoals and rapids here impede tlieir progress. At 
noon they deduced their latitude, by observation, to 
be 30. 11. 37. N. Receiving information of another 
salt lick, or saline, doctor Hunter landed, with a 
party, to view it. The pit was found in a low flat 
place, subject to be overflowed from the river; it 
was wet and muddy, the earth on the surface yellow, 
but on digging through about four feet of blue clay, 
the salt water oozed from a quicksand. Ten quarts 
of tills water produced, by evaporation, six ounces 
of saline mass, which, from taste, was principally 
marine salt ; to the taste, however, it showed an 
admixture of soda, and muriated magnesia, but the 
marine salt greatly preponderated. The specific 
gravity was about 1.076 probably weakened from 
ithe rain which had fallen the day before. The as- 
cent of the river hecomes troublesome, from the 
rapids and currents, particularly at the "Isledu 
bayou des Roehes" (Rocky Creek island) where 
it requ red great exertions, and was attended with 
some hazard to pass them. This island is three 
fourths of a mile in lengtli. The river presents a 
series of shoals, rapids, and small cataracts ; and 
they passed several points of high land, full of rocks 
and stones, much harder and more solid than any 
they had yet met with. 

The rocks were all silicious, with their fissures 

penetrated by sparry matter. Indications of iron 

were frequent, and fragments of poor ore wers 

common, but vieh ore of that or any othei;' metal 

T 2 



^^d OBSEltVATlOAS, \*j. 

was found. Some of the hills appear well adapted 
to the cultivation of the vine ; the soil being a saiidy 
loam, with a considerable portion of gravel, and a 
superficial covering of good vegetable black earth. 
Tiie natural productions are, several varieties of 
•oak, pine, dog-wood, liolly, ke, with a scattering 
undergrowth of whortleberry, hawthorn, china bri- 
er, and a variety of small vines. 

Above the isle deMallon, the country wears an- 
other ])rospect. High lands and rocks frequently 
approach the river. The rocks in grain, resemble 
freestone, and are hard enough to be used as hand 
mill-stones, to which purpose they are frequently 
applied. The quality of the lands improve, the 
stratum of vegetable earth being from six to twelve 
inches, of a dark brown colour, with an admixture 
of loam and sand. Below Deer Island they passed 
a stratum of free stone, fifty feet thick, under which 
is aquary of imperfect slate in perpendicular layers. 
About a league from the river, and a little above the 
slate quarry, is a considerable plain, called **Prairie 
de Champignole," often frequented by buffalos. 
Some salt licks are found near it ; and in many 
situations on both sides of this river, there are said 
to be salines whicli may hereafter be rendered very 
productive, and fr*)m which the future settlements 
may be abundantly supplied. 

About four miles below the ** Chuttes," (falls) 

they, from a good observation, found the latitude 34. 

•21,25, B, The land on either hand continues to 

mprove in quality, with a sufficient stratum of dark 

arth of a brownish colour. Hills frequcMtly rise 

.)ut of the level country, full of rocks and stones, 

lard and flinty, and often resemling Turkey oil 

atones. Of this kind was a promontory which came 

in from the right hand a little below the Chuttes ; at 

a distance it presented the appearance of ruined 

ttuildings and fortifications and several insulated 

* xnassesof rock, conveyed the idea of redoubts and 

out-works. This effeet was heightened by the 

rising of a fiock of swans which had taken their 



OBSERVATIONS, kc, 2'a\ 

station in tlic water, at the foot of these walls. As 
tlie voyagers approached, the birds floated about 
majestically on the glassy surface of the water, and 
in tremulous accents seemed to consult upon means 
of safety. The whole was a sublime picture. In 
the afternoon of the 3d of December, they reached 
the Chuttes, and found the falls to be occasioned by 
a chain of rocks of the same hard substance seen 
below, extending in tlie direction of north-east and 
south-west, quite across the river. The water pas- 
ses through a number of branches worn by the im- 
petuosity of tlic torrent where it forms so many cas- 
cades. The chain of rock or hill on the left, ap • 
pears to have been cut down to its present level by 
the abrasion of the waters. By great exertion and 
lightening the boat, they passed the Chuttes that 
evening, and encamped just above the cataracts, 
and within the hearing of their incessant roar. 

Immediately above the Chuttes, the current of the 
waters is slow to another ledge of hard free stone; 
the reach between is spacious and not less than two 
yards w ide, and terminated by a hiJl three hundred 
feet higli, covered with beautiful pines : this is a 
fine situation for building. In latitude 34. 25. 48. 
they passed a very dangerous rapid, from the num- 
ber of rocks which obstruct the passage of tlic wa- 
ter, and break it into foam. On the right of the ra- 
pid is a high rocky hill covered with very handsome 
pine woods. The strata of the rock has an incli- 
nation of 30 to the horizon in the direction of the 
river descending. This hill mav be three hundred 
or three hundred and fifty feet high ; a border or 
list of green cane skirts the margin of the river, 
beyond whicli generally rises a high, and sometimes 
a barren hill. Near another rapid tliey passed a 
hill on tlie left, containing a large body of blue slate. 
A small distance above the bayou de Saline they had 
to pass a rapid of one hundred and fifty vards in 
length, and four and a half feet fall, whicirfrom its 
velocity, the French have denominated " La Cas- 
cade." Below the cascade there are rocky hills on 



i32 OBSERVATIONS, kv, 

botli sides composed of very hard free-stone. The 
stone in the bed of the river, and which has been 
rolled from the upper country, was of the hardest 
flint ; or of a quality resembling the Turkey oil- 
stone. " Fourche au Tigre," (Tiger's creek,) 
which comes in from the right, a little above the cas- 
cade, is said to have many extensive tracts of rich 
level land upon it. The rocky hills here frequently 
approach the Washita on both sides ; rich bottoms 
are nevertheless, frequent, and the upland is 
sometimes of modern elevation and tolerably level. 
The stones and rocks here met with, have their fis- 
sures filled by sparry and crystaline matter. 

Wild turkey become more abundant and less dif- 
ficult of approach than below ; and the howl of the 
wolves is heard during the night. 

To the " Fourche au Calfat,"(Caulkei»'s creek) 
where the voyage terminates, they found level and 
good land on the right and high hills on the left hand. 
After passing over a very precipitous rapid, seem- 
ingly divided into four steps or falls, one of which 
was at least fifteen inches in perpendicular height, 
and which together could not be less than five and a 
half feet, they arrived at Elles' camp, a small dis- 
tance below the Fourche au Calfat, where they stop- 
ped on the 6th of December, as the pilot considered 
it the most convenient landing from whence to car- 
ry their necessary baggage to the hot springs, the 
distance being about three leagues. There is a 
creek about two leagues higher up, called " Bayou 
des sources chauds," (hot spring creek) upon the 
banks of which tlie hot springs are situated at about 
two leagues from its mouth. The banks of it arc 
hilly, and the road less eligible than from Elles* 

camp. , o , xi 

On ascending the hill, to encamp, they found the 
land very level and good, some plants in flower, {Tnd 
a great many evergreen vines 5 the forest oak with 
an admixture of other woods. The latitude of this 
place is 34. 27. 31. 5. The ground on which they 
encamped was about fifty feet above the water in the 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 233 

river, and supposed to be thirty feet higher than 
the inundations. Hills of considerable hei.^ht, and 
clothed with pine, were in view ; but the land 
around, and extending beyond their view, lies hand- 
somely for cultivation. The superstratum is of a 
blackish brown colour, upon a yellow basis, the 
whole intermixed with gravel and blue schistus, fre- 
quently so far decomposed as to have a strong alu- 
minous taste. From their camp, on the Washita, to 
the hot springs, a distance of about nine miles, the 
first six miles of the road is in a westerly directi- 
on without many curiosities, and the remainder 
northwardly, which courses are necessary to avoid 
some very steep hills. In this distance, they found 
three principal salt licks, and some inferior ones, 
which arc all frequented by buifalo, deer, &c. The 
soil around them is a white, tenacious clay, proba- 
bly fit for potters' ware : hence the name of ^^jlaise,' 
which the French hunters have bestowed upon most 
of the licks, frequented by this beasts of the forest, 
many of which exhibit no saline impregnation. 
T!ie first two miles from the river camp, is over le- 
vel land of the second rate quality ; the timber chief- 
ly oak, intermixed witli other trees common to the 
climate, and a few scattering pines. Further on, 
the lands, on either hand rise into gently swelling 
hills, covered with handsome pine woods. The 
road passes along a valley frequently wet by the nu- 
merous rills and springs of excellent water which 
issue from the foot of the hills. Near the hot springs 
the hills become more elevated, steeper of ascent and 
rocky. They are here called mountains, although 
none of them in view exceed four or five hundred 
feet in altitude. It is said that mountains of more 
than five times the elevation of these hills are to be 
seen in the northwest, towards the source of the Wa- 
shita, one of tlicm is called the glass, crystal, or 
shining mountain, from the vast number of hexago- 
nal prisms of very transparent and colourless cry- 
stal which are found on its surface ; they are gene- 
rally surmounted by pyramids at one end, rarely on 



23* OBSERVATIONS, ^c. 

both. These crystals do not produce a double refrac- 
tion of the rays of light. Many searches have been 
made over these mountains for the precious metals, 
but it is believed without success. 

At the hot springs they found an open log cabin, 
and a few huts of split boards, all calculated for 
summer encampment, and ^\hich had been erected 
by persons resorting to the springs for the recovery 
of their health. 

They slightly repaired these huts, or cabins, for 
their accommodation during the time of their de- 
tention at the springs, for the purpose of examining 
them and the surrounding country ; and making 
such astronomical observations as were necessary 
for ascertaining tlicir geographical position. 

It is understood that the hot springs are included 
within a grant of some hundred acres, granted by 
the late Spanish commandant of the Washita, to 
some of his friends, but it is not believed that ai^egu- 
lar patent was ever issued for the place : and it can- 
not be asserted that residence, with improvement 
here, form a plea to claim the land upon. 

On their arrival they immediately tasted the wa- 
ters of the hot springs, that is, after a few minutes* 
cooling, for it was impossible to approach it with 
the lips when first taken up, without scalding : the 
taste does not differ from that of good water render- 
ed hot by culinary fire. 

On tlie 10th they visited all the hot springs. They 
issue on the east side of the valley, where the huts 
are, except one spring, which lises on the west bank 
of the C]'€ek, from the sides and foot of a hill. From 
the small quantity of calcareous n;attcr yet deposit- 
ed, the western spiing dees not appear to be of 
long standing ; a natural conduit probably passes 
under the bed of thecieek, and supplies it. There 
are four principal spiings rising immediately on 
the east bank of the creek, one of which may be 
rather said to spring out of the gravel bed of the run; 
a fifth, a smaller one than that above mentioned, as 
rising on the west side o f the creek ,• and a sixth, of 



UBSERVATIONS, &c. 235 

the same magnitude, the most northerly, "and rising 
near tlie bank of the creek ; these are all the sources 
that merit tlie name of springs, near the huts ; but 
there is a considerable one below, and all along, at 
intervals, tlie warm water oozes out, or drops from 
the bank into the creek, as appears from the con- 
densed vapour floating along the margin of the creek 
wliere the drippings occur. 

The hill from which tlie hot springs issue is of 
a conical form, terminating at the top wit a few 
loose fragments of rock, covering a flat space 
twenty -five feet in diameter. Although the figure 
of the hill is conical it is not entirely insulated, but 
connected with the neighbouring hills by a very 
narrow ridge. The primative rock of this hill, 
above the base, is principally silicious, some part 
of it being the hardest flint, others a free-stone ex- 
tremely compact and solid, and of various colours. 
The base of the hill, and for a considerable extent 
is composed of a blackish blue sehistus, which di- 
vides into perpendicular laminae like blue slate. 
The water of the hot springs is, therefore, delivered 
from the silicious rock, generally invisible at the 
surface, fj*om tlie mass of calcareous matter with 
which it is incriisted, or rather buried, and which 
is perpetually precipitating from the water of the 
springs ; a small proportion of iron, in the form of 
red calx, is also deposited : the colour of which is 
frequently distinguishable in the lime. 

In ascending the hill several patches of rich 
black earth are found, which appeared to be form- 
ed by the decomposition of the calcareous matter; 
in other situ:itions the superficial earth is penetra- 
ted, or encrusted, by limestone, with fine laminaj, 
: i" minute fra;^n]ents of iron ore. 

The watei" of the hot springs must formerly hiive 
issued at a greater elevation in tbe hill, and run 
over the surface, having formed a m ^ss of calcare- 
ous rock one hundred feet perpendicular by its 
deposition. In this high situation thev found a 
.-in'ing whose temperature wiis 140 of Fahrenheit's 



2S6 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

thermometer. After passing the calcareous region 
ihey found the primitive hill covered by a forest of 
not very large trees, consisting chiefly of oak, pine, 
cedar, holly, hawthorn, and others common to the 
climate, with a great variety of vines, some said to 
produce black and yellow grapes, both excellent in 
their kinds. The soil is rocky, interspersed with 
gravel, sand, and fine vegetable mould. On reacli- 
ing the height of two hundred feet perpendicular, 
a considerable change in the soil was observeable ; 
it was stony and gravelly, with a superficial coat 
of black earth, but immediately under it lies a 
stratum of fat, tenacious, soapy, red clay, inclining 
to the colour of bright Spanish snuff, homeogenous 
with scarcely any admixture of sand, no saline, but 
rather a soft agreeable taste : the timber diminishes, 
and the rocks increase in size to the summit. The 
whole height is estimated at three liundred feet above 
the level of the valley. 

On examining the four principal springs, or those 
Vvhich yield the greatest quantity of water, or of the 
highest temperature. No. 1 was found to raise the 
mercury to 150. No. 2 to 154. No. 3 to 136, and 
No. 4. to lo2 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer ; 
the last is on the west side of the creek ; No. 3 is a 
small bason, in which there is a considerable quan- 
tity of green matter, having much appearance of a 
vegetable body, but detached from the bottom, yet 
connected with it by something like a stem, which 
rests in calcareous matter. The body of one of 
these pseudo-plants was from four to live inches in 
diameter ; the bottom a smooth film of some tenacity 
and the upper surface divided into ascending fibres 
of half or thi*ee foui^ths of an inch long, resembling 
tlic gills of a fish, in transverse rows. A little fur- 
ther on was another small muddy basin, in which the 
water was w arm to the finger : in it was a vermes 
about half an inch long, moving with a serpentine 
or vermicular motion. It was invariably observed, 
tl;nt the green matter forming on the stones and 
leaves covered a sti-atum of calcareous eartli, some- 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 237 

times a little hard, or brittle, at others soft and im- 
perfect. From the bottom of one of the hot springs 
a frequent ebullition of i^as was observed, which not 
having the means of collecting, they could not ascer- 
tain its nature : it was not inflammable, and there is 
little doubt of its being carbonic acid, from the 
quantity of lime, and the iron, held in solution by 
the \\'ater. 

They made the following rough estimate of the 
quantity of water delivered by the springs. There 
are four principal springs, two of inferior note; 
one rising out of tlie gravel, and a number of drip- 
jiings and drainings, all issuing from tlic margin, 
or from under the rock which overhangs tlie creek. 
Of tlie four first mentioned, tlirce deliver nearly 
equal quantities, btit No. 1, the most considerable, 
delivers about five times as much as one of the other 
tliree ; the two of inferior note may, together, be 
equal to one; and all the droppings, and s a.ll 
springs, are ]>robably under-rated at double the 
vjuantity of one of the three; that is, altogether, 
they will deliver a quantity equal to eleven times 
the water issuing from the one most commodiously 
situated for measuriMnent. This spring filled a ves- 
sel of eleven quarts in eleven seconds, hence the 
wliole quantity of hot water delivered from the 
springs at the* base of the hili is 165 gallons in a 
minute, or .>77i hogsheads in 2h hours, wiiich is 
equal to a handsortjc brook, and might work an 
over-shot mill. In cwf>l weatiier condensed vapour 
is seen rising out of the gravel bed of tiie cirek, 
from springs wiiich cannot be taken into account. 
During the summer and fall, the ci-eek receives lit- 
tle or no water but wliat is supplied by the hot 
springs ; at that season itself is a hot bath, too hot, 
indeed, near the springs ; so tliat a i)erson may 
choose tlie temper atui'c most agreeable to himself, 
by selecting a natural basin near to, or farther from 
the principal springs. At tliree or four miles below 
the springs the water is tepid and unpleasant to 
drink. 

U 



v^S OBSBRVATiONS, kc. 

From the western mountain, estimated to be of 
equal height with that from which the liot sprin.£?s 
flow, there are several fine prospects. The valley 
of the Washita, comprehended between the hills on 
either side, seemed a perfect flat, and about twelve 
miles wide. On all hands were seen the hills or 
mountains, as tliey are hei»e called, rising behind 
eacli other. In the direction of north, the most dis- 
tant were estimated to be fifty miles off*, and arc 
supposed to be those of the Arkansa river, or the 
rugged mountains which divide the waters of the 
Arkansa from those of the Washita, and prevent the 
Osage Indians from visiting the latter, of whom 
tliey are supposed ignorant ; otherwise their excur- 
sions liere would prevent this place from befng vi- 
sited by white persons, or other Indians. In a 
south-west direction, at about forty miles distance, 
is seen a perfectly level ridge, supposed to be the 
high prairies of the Red river. 

Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, a 
considerable number, and some variety of plants 
v/ere in flower, and others retained their verdure ; 
indeed the ridge was more temperate than the val- 
ley heiow; theie it was cold, damp and penetrating; 
})ere dr} , and tiie atmospliere mild. Of the plants 
grov/iug here was a species of cabbage : the plants 
gTow With expanded leaves,spreadingon the ground, 
of a <ieep green, with a shade of purple ; the taste of 
\1jc cabbage was plainly predominant, with an 
agreeable' warmth inclining to that of the radish ; 
seveiai tap-roots penetrated into the soil of a white 
folour, having the taste of horse-radish, but mueh 
mililcr. A quantity of them tiiken to tl.e camp ani! 
dressed , proved pahitable and mild. It is not proba- 
ble that cabbage has been scattered on this ridge ; 
the hunters iiscending this river have always had 
different objects. Until further elucidation, this 
cabbage must be considei'ed as idigenousto thisse 
questered quarter, and may be denominated the 
cabbage radish of the Washita. They found a 
plant,* then e^i'^en, called by the French " racine 



OBSERVATIONS, 6cc. 239 

rouge," (red root,) wliich is said to be a specific iti 
female obstructions ; it has also been used, combined 
with the china root, to dye red, the last probably 
acting as a mordant. Tlie top of this ridge is co- 
vered with rocks of a flinty kind, and so very liard 
as to be improper for gun flints, for when applied to 
that use it soon digs cavities in the hammer of the 
lock. This hard stone is generally white, but fre- 
quently clouded with red, brown, black, and other 
colours. Here and there fragments of iron stone 
were met with, and where a tree had been overturn- 
ed, its roots brought to view fragments of schistus, 
which were suffering decomposition from exposure 
to the atmospliere. On digging where the slope of 
the hill was precipitous, they found the second stra- 
tum to be a reddish clay, resembling that found on 
the conical hill, east side of t}»e eamp. At two- 
tliirds down the hill, the rock was a hard free-stone, 
intermixed with fragments of flint which Iiad pro- 
bably rolled from above. Still lower was f»und a 
blue schistus, in a state tending to deeamposition 
where exposed to the atmosphere, but hard and re- 
sembling coarse slate in tl»e interior. Many stones 
had the appearance of Turkey oil-stones : at the 
foot of the hill it expands into good farming lands. 

Dr. Hunter, upon examining the waters of the 
liot springs, obtained the following results : 

It differed nothing from the hot water in smell or 
taste, but caused a slight eructiou shortly after 
drinking it. 

Its specific gravity is equal to rain or distilled wa- 
ter.' 

It gave to litmus paper, a slight degree of redtte|>s 
evincing the presence of the carbonic aciil.or fixed 
air sulphuric and threw down a few detac'ied parti- 
cles. Oxylat of ammoniac caused a deposition and 
white cloud, showing the presence of a small porti- 
on of lime. Prusiate of potash produced a slight 
and scarcely perceptible tinge of blue, designating 
the presence of a small quantity of iron. 

Sixteen pounds of water evaporated to dryness, 



240 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

left ten grains of a grey powder, wliich proved to 
ie lime. 

The myrtle wax ti'ee grows in the vicinity of the 
springs. At the season in which the voyagers wei*e 
there, the wax was no longer green, hut had changed 
its colour to a greyish white, from its long exposure 
to the weather. The berry when examined by a 
microscope, is less than the smallest garden pea, ap- 
proaching to an oval in form. The nucleus, or real 
seed, is the size of a radish and is covered with a 
number of kidney-shaped glands, of a brown colour 
and sweet taste; these glands secrete the w^ax which 
couipletely envelops them, and, at this season, gives 
to the whole the appearance of an imperfectly w hite 
berry. This is a valuable plant and merits atten- 
tion : its favourite portion is a dry soil, rather poor, 
and looking down upon the water. It is well adapt- 
ed to oniament the margins of canals, lakes, or ri- 
vulets. The cassina yapon. Is equally beautiful ; 
and proper for the same purpose : it grows here 
along the banks of this stony creek, intermingled 
w iththc myrtle and bears a beautiful little red ber- 
ry, very much resembling the red currant. 

I'he rock through which the hot springs either 
pass or trickle over, appears undermined by the 
w^aters of the creek. I'he hot w ater is continually 
depositing calcareous, and, perhaps, some silicious 
matter, forming new rocks, always augmenting and 
projecting their promontories over the running wa- 
ter of the creek, which prevents its formation be- 
low the surface. W herever this calcareous crust 
is seen spreading over the bank and margin of the 
creek, there, most certainly, the hot w ater will be 
found either running over the surface, or through 
some channel, perhaps below the new rock, or drip- 
ping from the edges of the overhanging precipice. 
The progress of nature in the formation of this new 
rock is curious, and worthy the attention of tlic mi- 
neralogist. \\hen the hot water issues from the 
fountain, it frequently spreads over a superficies of 
some extent 5 so far as it reaches on either hand. 



OBSERVATIONS &c. 2U 

there is a deposition of, orgrowth,of green matter. 
Several laminae of this green matter will be found 
lying over each other ; and immediately under, and 
in contact with the interior laminje, whic'i is not 
thicker than paper, is found a whitish sibstanec re- 
sembling a caagulum ; when viewed with a micro- 
scope, this last is also found to consist of several, 
sometimes a good number of laminse, of which that 
next the green is the finest and thincst, being the 
last formed ; those below increasing in thickness 
and tenacity until the last terminates in a soft earthy 
matter, wliich reposes on tlie more solid rock. 
Each lamin?e of the coagulum is penetrated in all its 
parts by calcareous grains, extremely minute, and 
divided in tlie more recent web, but much larger 
and occupying the whole of the inferior laminae. 
The under stratum is continually consolidating, 
and adding bulk and height to the roek. When this 
acquires such an elevation as to stop the passage of 
the water, it finds another course over the rock, 
Jiill, or margin of the creek, forming, in turn, accu- 
mulations of matter over the whole of tlie adjacent 
space. When the water lias found itself a new 
cha-nnel, the green matter, which sometimes ac- 
quires a thickness of half an inch, is speedily con- 
verted into a rich vegetable earth, and becomes the 
food of plants. The surface of the calcareous rock 
also decomposes and forms the I'iehest black mould 
intimately mixed with a considerable portion of soil; 
plants and trees vegetate luxuriantly upon it. 

On examining a piece of ground upon which the 
snow dissolved as it fell, and which was cover- 
ed with herbage, they found in some places, a caU,: 
careous crust on the surface; but in general a depth 
of from five inches to a foot of the richest black mould. 
The surface was sensibly warm to the touch. In the 
air the mercury in the Thermometer stood at 4* ; 
when placed four inches under the surface, and co- 
vered with earth, it rose rapidly to 68 ; and upon the 
calcareous rock, eight inches beneath the surface, it 
rose to 80. This result was uniform over the whole 
surface, which was about a quarter of an acre. 
U 2 



24o2 OBSERVATlOxNS, kc. 

OiJ scarcliing they found a spring, about iititen 
inches under the surface, in tlie water of whicli tlu- 
llicrnionieter shewed a temperature of 130. Be- 
neath the black mould was found a brown mixture 
of lime and silex, very loose and divisible, appa- 
rently in a state of decomposition, and progrcssini^ 
towards tlic formation of a black mould ; under this 
brownisli mass it became gradually whiter and 
harder, to tlic depth of from six to tweh e inches, 
w here it was a calcareous sparkling stone. It was 
evident iliat the water had passed over this place, 
and formed a fiat superficies of solicious limestone: 
and that its position, nearly level, had facilitated the 
accumulation of earth, in proportion as the decom- 
position advanced. Similar spots of ground were 
found higher up the hill, resembling little savannas, 
near which hot springs were always discovered, 
which had once flowed over them. It appears pro- 
bable that the hot water of the springs, at an early 
period, had all issued from its grand reservoir in the 
hill, at a much greater elevation than at present. 
The calcareous crust may be traced up, in most si- 
tuations on the west side of the hill looking down 
the creek and valley, to a certain height, and per- 
haps one hundred feet perpendicular ; in this region 
Uie hill rises precipitously, and is studded with hard 
silicious stones; below, the descent is more gradual, 
and the soil a calcareous black earth. It is easy to 
discriminate the primitive hill from that which has 
jieeumulatcd, by precipitation, from the water of 
the springs : this last is entirely confined to the west 
side of the hill, and washed at its base by the wa- 
ters of the creek, no hot spring being visible in any 
other part of its circumference. By actual mea- 
surement along the base of the hill the influence of 
the springs is found to extend seventy perches, in a 
direction a little to the east of north : along the 
whole of this space the springs have deposited stony 
niatter, calcareous with an addition of silex or cry- 
stallized limo. The accumulation of calcareous 
matter is more considerable at the north end of the 



OBSERVATIONS, kv, 2UJ 

hill than the south ; the first may be above oiie hun- 
dred feet perpendicular, but sloping much more 
gradually than the primitive hill above, until it ap- 
proaches the creek, where not unfrequently it ter- 
minates in a precipice of from six to twenty feet. 
The difference between the primitive and secondary 
hill is so striking that a superficial observer must 
notice it ; the first is regularly very steep, and stud- 
ded with rock and stone of the hardest flint, and 
other silicious compounds, and a superficies of two 
or three inches of good mould covers a red clay ; 
below, on the secondary hill, which carries evident 
marks of recent formation, no flint, or silicious 
stone, is found ; the calcareous rock conceals all 
from view, and is, itself, frequently covered by 
much fine rich earth. It would seem that tliis com- 
pound, precipitated from the hot water, yields easi- 
ly to the influence of the atmosphere ;' for where 
the waters cease to flow over any poi'tion of the 
rock, it speedily decomposes ; probably more ra- 
pidly from the heat communicated from the interior 
part of the hill, as insulated masses of the rock are 
observed to remain without change. 

The cedar, the wax myrtle, and the cassina 
yapon, all evergreens, attach themselves particular- 
ly to the calcareous region, and seem to grow and 
thrive even in the clefts of the solid rock. 

A spring, enjoying a freedom of position, pro- 
ceeds with great regularity in depositing the matter 
it holds in solution ; the border or rim of its basin 
i'orms an elevated ridge, from whence proceeds a 
glacis all around, w^here the waters have flowed for 
some time over one part of the bi*im ; this becomes 
more elevated, and the water has to seek a passage 
where there is less resistance; thus forming in 
miniature, a crater resembling in shape the conical 
summit of a volcano. The hill being steep above 
the progress of petrifaction is stopped on that side, 
and the waters continue to flow and spread abroad, 
incrusting the whole face of the hill below. The 
iast formed calcareous border of the circular basin 



2^4 OBSERVATIONS, kc. 

is soft, and easily divided ; at a small depth it is 
more compact ^ and at the deptli of six inches it is 
j^enerally hard white stone. If the bottom of the 
basin is stirred up, a quantity of red calx of iron 
rises, and escapes over the summit of the crater. 

Visitants to the hot springs, having observed 
shrubs and trees witli their roots in tlie hot water, 
have been induced to try experiments, by sticking 
branches of trees in the run of hot water. Some 
branches of the wax myrtle were found thrust into 
the bottom of a spring run, the w ater of wliich was 
130. by Fahrenheit's thermometer ; the foliage and 
fruit of the brancli were not only sound and healthy, 
but at the surface of the water, roots were actually 
sprouting from it : on pulling it up, the part which 
had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed. 

The green substance discoverable at the bottom of 
the hot springs, and which at first sight has tlie ap- 
pearance of plush, on examination by the micro- 
scope, was found to be a vegetable production. A 
film of green matter spreads itself on the calcare- 
ous base, from which rises fibres more than half an 
inch in length, forming a beautiful vegetation. Be- 
fore the microscope it sparkled with innumerable 
nodules of lime, some part of which w^as beautifiu- 
ly crystallized. This circumstance miglit cause a 
doubt of its being a true vegetable ; but its great re- 
semblance to some of the mosses, particularly the 
byssi,and the discovery whichMr.D unbar made of 
its being the residence of animal life, confirmed his 
belief in its being a true moss. After a diligent 
search he discovered a very minute shell-fish, of the 
bivalve kind, inhabiting this moss ; its shape nearly 
that of the fresh water muscle ; the colour of the 
shell a greyish brown, with spots of a purplish co- 
lour. When the anim al is undisturbed it opens the 
shell, and thrusts out four legs, very transparent, 
and articulated like those of a quadruped ; the ex- 
tremities of the fore legs are very slender and sharp, 
but those of the hind legs some what broader, appa- 
rently armed with minute toes ; from the extremity 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 2^0 

of each shell issues three or four forked hairs, 
which the animal seems to possess the power of 
moving ,- the fore legs are probably formed for mak- 
ing incisions into the moss for the purpose of pro- 
curing access to the juices of the living plant, upon 
which, no doubt, it feeds : it may be provided with 
a proboscis, although it did not appear while the 
animal was under examination : the hind legs are 
well adapted for propelling it in its progress over 
the moss, or through the water. 

It would be desirable to ascertain the cause of 
that perpetual fire which keeps up the high temper- 
ature of so many springs asiiow from this hill, at 
a considerable distance from each other; upon 
looking around, however, sufficient data for the 
solution of the difficulty arc not discoverable. 
Nothing of a volcanic nature is to be seen in this 
country ; neither could they learn that any evidence 
in lavour of such a supposition was to be found in 
the mountains connected with this river. An im- 
mense bed of dark blue sehistus appears to form the 
base of the hot spring hill, and of ail those in its 
neighhourhood : the bottom of the creek is formed 
ot it ; and pieces are frequently met with rendered 
soft by decomposition, and possessing a strong alu- 
minous taste, requiring nothing but lixiviation and 
crystallization to complete the manufacture of al- 
ium. As bodies undergoing chemical changes gene- 
rally produce an alteration of temperature, the 
heat ot these springs may be owing to the disen- 
gagement of caloric, or the decomposition of the 
sehistus : another, and perhaps a more satisfactory 
cause may be assigned : it is well known, that with- 
in the circle of the waters of this river vast beds of 
inartial pyrist exist ; they have not yci, however, 
been discovered in the vicinage of the hot springs, 
but may, nevertheless, furm immense beds under 
the bases of tliese hills ; and as in oncplace at least, 
there is evidence of the presence of bitumen, the 
union of these agents will, in the progress of de- 
composition, by the admission of air and moisture, 



246 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

produce degrees of heat capable of supporting the 
phenomena of the hot springs. No sulphuric acid 
is present in this water ; the springs may be sujjpli- 
cd by the vapour of heated water, ascending irom 
caverns w here the lieat is generated, or tlie heat 
may be immediately applied to the bottom of an im- 
mense natural chaldron or rock, contained in the 
bowels of the hill, from which as a I'cservoir the 
springs may be supplied. 

A series of accurate observations determined the 
latitude of the hot springs to be 34. 31. 45. 16. N. 
and long. 6K 11. 25. or 92. 50. 45. W. from the 
meridian of Greenwich. 

While Mr. Dunbar was making arrangements for 
transporting the baggage back to the river camp, 
doctor Hunter, with a small party, went on an ex- 
cursion into the country. He left the hot springs on 
the morning of the 27thi and after travelbne: some- 
time over liiils and steep craggy mouHtains with 
narrow valleys between them, then up the valleys 
and generally by the side of a branch emptying into 
the tVashita, they reached the main branch of the 
Calfat in the evening, about twelve miles from the 
springs. The stones they met with during the first 
part of the day were siiicious, of a whitish-grey, 
with flints, w^hite, cream-coloured, red, &c. The 
beds of the rivulets, and often a considerable way 
up the hills, sliowed immense bodies of schistus, 
both blue and grey, some of it effiorescing and 
tasting strongly of allum. The latter part of the 
day they travelled over and between hills of black, 
hard, and compact flint in shapeless masses, with 
schist as before. On ascending these high grounds 
you distinctly perceive the commencement of the 
piny region, beginning at tlie height of sixty or 
seventy feet, and extending to the top. T!ie soil 
in these narrow valleys is thin and full of stones. 
The next day, which was stormy, they reached a 
branch of the bayou de saline, which stretches 
towards the xirkansa, and empties into the Washita 
many leagues below, having gone about twelve 



i 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. 247 

miles. The mountains they had passed being of 
the primitive kind which seldom produce metals, 
and Iiaving hitherto seen nothing of the mineral 
kind, a little poor iron ore excepted, and the face of 
the country, as far £(S they could see, pi*esenting the 
same aspect ; they returned to the camp, and the 
hot springs, on the evening of the 13th by another 
route, in which they met with nothing worthy of no- 
tice. 

In consequence of the rains which had fallen, 
Mr. Dunbar, and those who were transporting the 
baggage to tlie river camp, found the road watery. 
The soil on the flat lands under the stratum of vege- 
table mould is yellowish, and consists of decompo- 
sed schistus, of wliicli there are immense beds in 
every stage of dissolution, from the hard stone re- 
cently uncovered and partially decomposed, to the 
yellow and apparently homogeneous earth. The 
covering earth between the hills and the river is, 
in most places, sufficiently thick to constitute a 
good soil, being from four to six inches ; and it is 
the opinion of the people upon the Washita, that 
wheat w ill grow here to great perfection. Although 
the higher hills, from three hundred to six hundred 
feet in height, arc very rocky, yet the inferior hills, 
and the sloping basesTbf the first, are generally co- 
vered with a soil of a middling quality. The na- 
tural productions are sufficiently luxuriant, con- 
sisting chiefly of biack and red oak, intermixed 
with a variety of otiier woods, and a considerable 
undergrowth. Even on tiiese rocky hills are three 
or four species of vines, said to produce annually 
an abundance of excellent grapes. A great variety 
of plants which grow here, spme of which in their 
season are said to produce flowers higldy ornamen- 
tal, would probaly reward the researches of the 
botanist. 

On the morning of the Sfch of January, 1805, the 
party left Eiles' on the river camp, where they had 
been detained for several' days, waiting for such a 
rise in the waters of the river, as would carry their 



248 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

boat in safety over the numerous rapids below. A 
rise of about six feet, which had taken place the 
evening before, determined them to m«ve this morn- 
ing ; and they passed the Chuttes about 1 o'clock. 
They stopped to examine the rotky promontory be- 
low tliese falls, and took some specimens of the 
stone which so much resembles the Turkey oil- 
stone. It appears too hard. The strata of this "^ 
chain were observed to run perpendicuhirly nearly 
east and west, crossed by the fissures at I'ight an- 
gles iVom five to eight feet apart ; tiie himin?e from 
one fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness. 
About a league below, they landed at M hetstone 
hill and took several specimens. This projecting 
hill is amass of greyish blue schistus of consider- 
able hardness, and about twenty feet pcr})endicular, 
not regularly so, and from a quarter to two inches 
in thickness, but does not split with an even sur- 
face. 

They landed again on tlie morning of tbc 9tli, in 
sight of the bayou de lapraire de champignole, t'> 
examine and take specimens of some free-stone and 
blue slate. The slate is a blue schistus, hard, brit- 
tle, and unfit for the covering of a house, none i)ro- 
per for that purpose liave been distovered; except on 
tbe Calfat, wluch Dr. Hunter met with in one of 
his excursions. 

On the eveinng of the 10th they encamped near 
Avclon's Troughs, having been only tliree days in 
descending the distance which took them thirteen 
tx) ascerid. They stopped some "time at tiie camp of 
a ^Ir. Le Fevre. He is an intelligent uian, a native 
of the Illinois, but now residing at the Arkansas. 
He came here with some Delaware and other Indi- 
ans, whom he had fitted out with goods, and receives 
their peltry, fur, &c. at a stipulated price, as it is 
brought in by tlie hunters. Mr Le Fevre pos- 
sesses considerable knowledge of tlie interior of the 
country ; he confirms the accounts before obtained, 
that the'hilis or mountains which give rise to this 
little river are in a manner insulated ; that is, they 



OBSERVAt^IONS, ^c. 249 

are entirely shut in and enclosed by the immense 
plains or prairies which extend beyond the Red ri- 
ver, to the south, and beyond the Missouri, or at 
least some of its branches, to the north, and range 
along the eastern base of the great chain, or divid- 
ing fine, commonly known by the name of the sand- 
hills, which separate the waters of the Mississippi 
from those which fall into tlie Pacific ocean. The 
breadth of this great plain is not well ascertained. 
It is said by some to be at certain parts, or in cer- 
tain directions, not less than two hundred leagues 5 
but it is agreed by all who have a knowledge of the 
western country, that the main breadth is at least 
two thirds of tliat distance. A branch of the Mis- 
souri called the river Plaite, or shallow river, is said 
to take its rise so far south as to derive its first wa- 
ters from the neighbourhood of the sources of the 
Red and Arkansa rivers. By the expression plains 
or prairies in tliis place, is not to be understood a 
dead flat, resembling certain savannas, whose soil is 
stiff and impenetiable, often under water, and bear- 
ing only a coarse grass resembling reeds ; very dif- 
ferent are tlie western prairies ; which expression 
signifies only a country without timber. These 
prairies are neither fiat nor hilly, but indulating 
into gentle swelling lawns and expanding in- 
to spacious valleys, in the centre of whicli is al- 
ways found a little timber growing on the banks of 
the brooks and rivulets of the finest waters. 

The whole of these prairies are represented to be 
composed of the richest and most fertile soil ; the 
most luxuriant and succulent herbage covei-s the 
surface of the earth, interspersed wfth millions of 
flowers and flowering shrubs, of the most ornamen- 
tal kinds. Those who have#iewed oidy a skirt of 
these prairies, speak of them with enthusiasm, as 
if it was only there nature was to be found truly 
perfect ; they declare that the fertility and beauty 
of the rising grounds, the extreme richness of the 
vales, the coolness and excellent quality of the wa- 
ter found in every valley, the salubrity of the at- 
iposphere, and ?.bove all, t}»e irran(Viir of fhe en- 
X 



£50 OB SERVATIOJS S, &c. 

chanting landscapes which this country presents, 
inspire tlie soul with sensations not to be felt in any 
otiier region of the globe. This paradise is now ve- 
I y thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages, and 
by the immense herds of wild cattle, (bison) which 
people these countries. The cattle perform regular 
migrations, according to the seasons, from south to 
jiorth, and from the plains of the mountains ; and 
in due time, taught by theii' instincts, take a retro- 
gade direction. 

These tribes move in the rear of the herds, and 
pick up stragglers, and sucli as lag behind, which 
they kill with the bow and arrow for their subsis- 
tence. This country is not subjected to those very 
sudden deluges of rain whicli in most hot countries, 
and even in the Mississippi territory, tear up and 
sweep away with irresistible fury, the crop and soil 
together : and on the contrary, rain is said to be- 
come more rare in proportion as the great chain of 
mountains is approached ; and it would seem that 
witliin the spliere of the attraction of those elevated 
ridges, little or no rain falls on the adjoining plains. 
This relation is the more credible, as in that res- 
pect our new country may resemble otlier flat or 
comparatively low countries, similarly situated ; 
such as the country lying between the' Andes and 
the western Pacific ; tlie plains are supplied nightly 
witli dews so extremely abundant, as to have the ef- 
fect of rcfiTshing showers of rain ; and the spacious 
valleys, which are extremely level, may witli facili- 
ty, be watered by the rills and brooks which are ne 
ver absent from these situations. Such is the de 
scri])tion of the better known country lying to thr 
south of Red river, from Nacogdoches towards Si. 
Antonio, in the province of Taxus ; the ricliest 
crops are said to be produced there without rain ; 
but agriculture in that quainter is at a low ebb ; the 
small quantities of maize furnished by the country^ 
is said to be raised without cultivation. A rude 
opening is made in the earth, sufficient to deposit 
Ihe grain, at the distance of four or five feet, in ir 



OBSERVATIONS, V' ^^^ 

regulai' squares, and the rest is left to nature. The 
soil is tender, spongy and rich, and seems always t6 
retain humidity sufficient, with the hounteous dews 
of heaven, to bring the crops to maturity. 

The Red and Arkansa rivers, whose courses are 
very long, pass througli jjortions of this fine coun- 
try. They are both navigable to an unknown dis- 
tance by boats of proper construction : the Arkan- 
sa river is, however^ understood to have greatly the. 
advantage with respect to the facility of navigation. 
Some difficult places are met with in the Red river 
below the Nakitosh, after wliich it is good for one 
hundred and fifty leagues (iH'obably computed 
leagues of the country, about two miles each ;) there 
the voyager meets with a very serious obstacle, the 
commenccmentofthe**raft,'* as it is called ; that is, 
a natural covering which conceals the whole river 
for an extent of seventeen leagues, continually 
augmenting by the drift-wood brought down by 
every considerable fresh. This covering, which, 
for a considerable time was only drift-wood^ now 
supports a vegetation of every thing ahounding in 
the neighbouring forest, not excepting trees of a 
considerable size ^ and the river may be frequently 
passed without any knowledge of its existence. It 
16 said that the annual inundation is opening for it- 
self a new passage through the low grounds near 
the hills ,• but it must be long before nature, unaided 
will excavate a passage sufficient for tlie waters of 
the Red river. Aboilt fifty leagues above this natu- 
ral bridge, is the residence of the Cadaux or Cada- 
doquies nation, whose good qualities are already 
mentioned. The inhabitants estimate the post of 
Nakitosh to be half way between New-Orleans and 
tiie Cadaux nation. Above this point the navigati- 
on of the Red river is said to be embarrassed by 
many rapids, falls and shallows. The Arkansa ri- 
ver issaid to present a safe, agreeable[and uninter- 
rupted navigation as high as it is known. The 
lands on each side are of the best quality, and well 
watered with springs, brooks and rivulets, affording 



252 0BSERVATIONS, kc 

Biany situations for mill scats. From dcscripiion, 
it would seem that aloiii^' this river there is a regu- 
lar gradation of hill and dale, presenting- their ex- 
tremities to the river ^ the hilk are gently swelling 
eminences, and the dales spacious vSlcys with liv- 
ing water meandering through them ; the forests 
consist of handsome trees, chiefly what is called 
open woods. The quality of the land is supposed 
superior to that on the Red river, until it ascends to 
the prairie country, where the land on hoth sides 
is prohably similar. 

About two liundrcd lengiiJe up the Arkansa is an 
interesting place called the Salt prairie ; there is a 
considerable fork of the livci- there, and a kind of 
savanna where the salt water i:' continually oozing 
out and spreading over the surfaee of a plain. Dur- 
ing the dry summer season the salt may be raked 
up in large heaps : a natural crust of a hand breadth 
in thickness is formed at this season. This place is 
not often frequented, on account of the danger from 
the Osage Indians : much less dare the white hun- 
ters ve))ture to ascend higher, where it is generally 
believed that silver is to be found. It is further 
said, that high up the Arkansa river, salt is found in 
a solid form, and may be dug out with the crow- 
bar. The waters of the Arkansa, like those of the 
Red river, arc not portable during the dry season, 
being both charged highly with a reddish earth or 
mould and extremely brackish. 

This inconvenience is not greatly felt upon the 
Ai'kansa, where springs and brooks of fresh water 
are frequent ; the Red river is understood not to be 
so highly favoured. Every account seems to prove 
that immense natural magazines of salt must exist 
in the great chain of mountains to the westward ; 
as all the rivers in the summer season, which flow 
from them are strongly impregnated with that mi- 
neral, and are only rendered palatable after receiv- 
ing the numerous streams of fresh water which join 
them in their course. The great western prairies, 
besides the herds of wUd cattle, (bison, commonhi 



OBSERVATIOjSS, kc. ^b:^ 

cailed biiffaloj) are also stocked witli vast numbers 
of wild goat (riot resembling the domestic goat) ex- 
tremely swift footed. As tlic description given of 
this goat is not perfect, it may from its swiftness 
prove to be the antelope ; or it possibly may be a* 
goat whicii has escaped from the Spanish settle- 
ments of New Mexico, A Canadian, who had 
beOiR much with the Indians to the westward, speaks 
of a wool-bearing animal larger than a sheep, the 
wool much mixed with hair^ which he had seen in 
large flocks. He pretends also to have seen a uni- 
corn, the single horn of which, he says, rises out of 
the tbrehead and curls backs, conveying th€ idea of 
the fossil cornuammonis. This man says he has 
travelled beyond the great dividing ridge so far as 
to have seen a large river flowing to the w^estward. 
The great dividing mountain is so lofty that it re- 
quires two days to ascend from the base to its top ; 
other ranges of inferior mountains lie before and 
behind it ; they are all rocky and sandy. Large 
lakes and valleys lie between the mountains. Some 
of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable 
islands ; the rivers flow from some of tliem. Great 
numbers of fossil bones, of very large dimensions 
are seen among the mountains, which the Canadian 
supposes to be the elephant's. 

He does not pretend to have seen any of the pre- 
cious metals, but has seen a mineral which he sup- 
poses might yield copper. From the top of the high 
mountain the view is bounded by a curve as upon 
the ocean, and extends over the most beautiful prai- 
riesr which seem to be unbounded> particularly to- 
wards the east. The finest of the lands he has seett 
are on the Missouri ; no other can compare in rich- 
ness and fertility with them. This Canadian, as 
well as Le Fevre, speaks of the Osages, of the tribe 
of Whitehairs, as lawless and unprincipled ; and the 
other Indian tribes hold them in abhorrence as a 
barbarous and uncivilized race, and the difterent 
nations who hunt in their neighbourhood, have 
been concerting plans for tlieir destruction. On the 
X 2 



25i OBSERVATIONS, kc. 

morning of the llth^ the party p.assed the petit ecov 
a Fabri. The osier, which gi'ovvs on the beaches 
above, is not seen below upon the river ; and here 
they began to meet with tlie small tree called 'char- 
nier' which' grows only oh the water side, and is 
met wi h all the way down the Washita. The lati- 
tude of 33. 40. seems the northern boundary of the 
one, and the southern boundary oftheother of thest' 
vegetables. Having noticed the limit set to the long 
moss, (Telandsia) on the ascent of the river, in lati- 
tude 33. Mr. Dunbar made inquiry of Mr. LeFc- 
vre, as to its existence on the Arkansa settlement, 
which is known to lie in about the same parallel ; he 
rsaid, that its growth is limited about ten miles south 
of the settlement, and that as remarkably, as if a 
line had been drawn east and west for the purpose; 
as it ceases all at once, and not by degrees. Hence 
it appears, that nature has marked with a distin- 
guishing feature, the line established by congress, 
between the Orleans and Louisiana territories. 
The cypress is not found on the Washita higher than 
thirty-four degrees of north latitude. 

In ascending the river, they foumi their rate of 
going to exceed that of the current about six miles 
and an half in twenty-four hours ; and that on the 
12th, they had passed the apex of the tide or wave, 
occasioned by the fresh, and were descending along 
an inclined plain ; as they encamped at night, they 
found themselves in deeper water the next mornings, 
and on a more elevated part of the nclined plain 
than they had been in the preceding evening, from 
the progress of the apex of the tide during their re- 
pose. 

At noon, on the 16th, they reached the post of the 
Washita. 
• Mr. Dunbar being anxious to reach the Natchez 
as early as possible, and being unable to procure 
horses at the post, took a canoe with one soldier 
and his own domestic, to push down' to the Cata- 
hoola; from whence to Concord there is a road of 
thirty miles across the low grounds. He SBt off 



OBSERVATIONS, ^c. 2d . 

early on the morning of the 20th, and at nie;]ji 
reached the settlement of an old hunter, with whom 
he had conversed on liis way uj) the rivo'. This 
man informed him, that at the place called the mine, 
on tl>e Little Missouri, tliere is a smoke which as-' 
cends pei-petually from a particular place, and that 
the vapour is sometimes insupportahle. The river, 
or a hranch of it, passes over a hed of mineral, 
whicli from tJie descriptions given, is, no douht, 
martial pyrites. In a creek,' or a hranch of the 
Pourche a Luke, there is to he found on the beaches 
and in tlie cliffs, a great number of e^lobular bodies, 
some as large, or larger than a man's head, wliich, 
when broken, exhibit the appearance of gold, sil- 
ver, and precious stones ; most probably pyrites 
and crystallized spar. And at the Fourches des 
ixlaises a Paul, (higher up the river than Fourchc 
a Luke,) near the river there is a cliff full of hexa- 
gonal prisms, terminated by pyramids which ap- 
pear to grow out of the rock: they are from six to 
eight inches in length, and some of them are an 
inch in diameter. There are beds of pyrites found 
in several small creeks communicating with the 
Washita, but It appears that tliemineral'indications 
are greatest on the Little Missouri : because, as 
betore noted, some of the hunters actually worked 
oil them, and sent a parcel of the ore to New 
Orleans. It is the belief here, that the mineral 
contains precious metal, but tliat the Spanish 
government did not choose a mine should be open- 
ed s;o near to the British settlements. An express 
prohibmon was issued against working these 

At this place, Mr. Dunbar obtained one or two 
slips of the "boisde are," (bow wood or vellow 
wood,) from the^Missouri. The fruit of which had 
fallen before^ the maturity, lay upon the ground, 
fe-me were the size of a small orange, with a rind 
Pi 1 J:; >^'-f:«; the colour, though it appeared 
fad^d, still retained a resemblance to pale gold. 

Ihe tree m its native soil, when laden with its 



i> 56 OBSERVATIONS, &c. 

golden fruit, (nearly as large as the egg ot ah 
ostrich,) presents the most splendid appearance j 
its foliage is of a deep green, resembling the var- 
^nished leaf of the orange tree ; upon t!ie whole, no 
forest tree can compare with it in ornamental 
grandeur. The hark of the young trees resemble, 
in texture, the dog- wood bark; the appearance 
pf the wood recommends it for trial as an article 
which may yield a yellow dye. It is deciduous ; 
the branches are numerous, and full of short thorns 
or prickles, whicli seem to point it out as proper 
for hedges or live fences. This tree is known to 
exist near the Nakitosh (perhaps in latitude 32r,) 
and upon the river Arkansa, high up (perhaps in 
lat. 36 ;) it is therefore probable that it may thrive- 
fi'om latitude 38 to 40 and will be a great acquisi- 
tion to the United States if it possesses no other 
merit than that of being ornamental. 

In ascending the river, both Mr. Dunbar and 
Dr. Hunter searched for the place said to yield 
gypsum, or plaister of paris, but failed. The for- 
mer gentleman states, that he has no doubt of its 
existence, having noted two places where it has 
been found ; one of which is the first hill, or high 
land, which touches the river on the west, above 
the bayou Calumet, and the other is the second 
highland on the same side. As these are two points 
of the same continual ridge, it is probable that an 
immense body of gypsum will be found in the bow- 
els oftlie hills wliere they meet, and perhaps ex- 
tending far beyond them. 

On the evening of the 22d Mr. Dunbar arrived 
at the Catahoola, where a Frenchman of the name 
ofHebrard, who keeps the ferry across Black river, 
is settled. Here the road from the Washita forks, 
one branch of it leading to the settlement on Red 
river, and the other up to the post on the Washita. 
The proprietor of this place has been a hunter, a 
great traveller up the Washita and into the western 
country : he confirms generally the accounts receiv- 
ed from others. It appears, from what the^ say. 



OBSERVATIONS, &c. ^^^ 

that in the neighbourhood of the hot springs, hut 
higher up, among the mountains, and upon the Lit- 
tle Missouri, during the summer season, explosions 
are very frequently heard, proceeding from under 
the ground and not rarely a curious phenomenon is 
seen, which is termed the blowing of the mountain : 
it is confined elastic gas forcing a passage through 
the side or top of a hill, driving before it a great 
quantity of earth and mineral matter. During the 
winter spason the explosions and blowing of the 
mountains entirely cease, from whence we may 
conclude, that the cause is comparatively superfici- 
al, brought into action by the increased heat of the 
rays of the summer sun. 

The confluence of tlie Washita, Catahoola and 
Tenza is an interesting place. The last of these 
communicates with the Mississippi low lands, by 
the intervention of other creeks and lakes, and by 
one in particular, called " Bayou d' Argent," which 
empties into the Mississippi, about fourteen miles 
above Natchez. During high water there is a na- 
vigation for batteaux of any burthen along the ba- 
you. A large lake, called St. John's lake, occu- 
jpies a considerable part of the passage between the 
Mississippi *and the Tenza; it is in a horse shoe 
form, and has, at some former period, been the bed 
of the Mississippi : the nearest part of it is about 
one mile removed from the river at the present time. 
This lake, possessing elevated banks, similar to 
those of the river, has been lately occupied and im- 
proved. The Catahoola bayou is the third naviga- 
ble stream : during the time of tlie inundation there 
is an excellent communication by the lake of that 
name, and from thence, by large creeks to the Red 
river. The country around the point of union of 
these three rives is altogether alluvial, but the place 
of Mr. Hebrard's residence is no longer subject to 
inundation. There is no doubt, that as the country 
augments in population and riches, this place will 
become the site of a commercial inland town, which 
will keep pace with the progress and prosperity of 



2BS OBSERVATIONS, *c . 

the conntry. One of the Indian mounts here is of a 
considerable elevation, with a species of rampart, 
surrounding; a lari^e space, which was^ no doubt, 
the position of a fortified town. 

While here Mr. Dunbar met with an American 
who pi*etendcd to have been up the Arkansa river 
three hundi-ed leagues. The navigation of this ri- 
ver he says is good to that distance, for boats draw- 
ing three or four feet water. Implicit faitli, perhaps, 
ought not to be given to his relation, respecting the 
quantity of silver he pretends to have collected 
there. He says he has found silver on the Washita, 
thirty leagues above the hot springs, so rich, that 
three pounds of it yielded one pound of silver, and 
this was found in a cave. He asserts also, that the 
ore of the mine upon the Little Missouri, was carri- 
ed to Kentucky, by a person of the name of Bon, 
where it was found to yield largely in silver. This 
man says he has been up the Red river likewise, 
and that there is a great rapid just below the raft, 
or natural bridge, and several others above it ; that 
the Caddo nation is about fifty leagues above the 
raft, and near to their village commences the coun- 
try of tlie great prairies, which extend four or five 
hundred miles to the west of the sand mountains, as 
they are termed. These great plains reach far be- 
yond tlie Red river to the south and northward over 
the Arkansa river, and among the numerous branch- 
es of tlie Missouri. He confirms the account of the 
beauty and fertility of the westei*n country. 

On the morning of the 25th Mr. Dunbar set out 
on horseback, from the Catahoola to Natchez. The 
rain which had fallen on the preceding days render- 
ed tlic roads wet and muddy, and it was two in the 
afternoon before he reached the Bayou Crocodile, 
which is considered half way between the Black ri- 
ver and the Mississippi. It is one of the numerous 
creeks in the low grounds which assist in venting 
the waters of the inundation. On the margins of 
tlie water courses, the lands are highest and pro- 
duce canes ; they fail off, in the rear, into cypress 



COMMON NAMES, kc. 269 

swamps and lakes. The waters of the Mississippi 
were rising, and it was with some difficulty that 
they readied a house near Concord that evening. 
This settlement was begun since the cession of 
Louisiana to the United States, by citizens of the 
Mississippi territory, who have established their re- 
sidence altogether upon newly acquired lands, tak- 
en up under the authority of the Spanish command- 
ant, and have gone to the expense of improvement 
either in the names of themselves or others, before 
the 20th of December, 1803, hoping thereby to 
hold their new possession under the sanction of the 
law. 

Exclusive of the few actual residents on the 
banks of the Mississippi, there are two very hand- 
some lakes in the interior, on the banks of which 
similar settlements have been made. He crossed at 
the ferry and at mid-day of the 36th reached his 
own house. 

Dr. Hunter, and the remainder of the party, fol- 
lowed Mr. Dunbar, down the Washita, with the boat 
in which they ascended the river, ascended the Mis- 
sissippi, and reached St. Catharine's landing on the 
morning of the 31st of January, 1805. 



Common names of some of the trees, shrubs and plants 
growing in tlie vicinity of the Washita, 

THREE kinds of white oak, four kinds of red 
oak, black oak, three kinds of hickorv,one of which 
has an oblong nut, white and good, chinkapin, 
three kinds of ash, one of which is the prickly, 
three kinds of elm, two kinds of maple, two kinds 
of pine, red cedar, sweet gum, black gum, linden, 
two kinds of iron-w ood, growing on high and low 
lands, sycamore, box elder, holly, sweet bay, laurel, 
magnolia accuminata, black walnut, filbert, buck- 
eye, dogwood, three kinds of locust, the three-thorn- 
n.Una honey locust, hazel, bciich, wild plumb, the 



260 COMMON NAMES, &c. 

fruit red, but not good, bois d'are (bow-wood) called 
also bois jaune (yellow- wood) a famous yellow dye, 
three kinds of hawthorn, with berries, red, scarlet, 
and black, lote trec,^for Indian arrows, bois de car- 
bane, a small growth, and proper for hoops, two 
kinds of osier, myrtle, tooth-ach tree and magno- 
lia. 

A Vine, bearing large good black grapes in bunch- 
es, black grape, hill grape, yellow grape, musca- 
dine, or fox grape, and a variety of other vines. 
The saw brier, single rose brier, and china root 
brier, wild gooseberry, with a dark red fruit, three 
kinds of whortleberry, wild pomagranate, passion 
flower, two sorts of sumach, winter's berry, win- 
ter's green, a small red farinaceous berry like a 
haw, on a plant one inch high which grows under 
the snow, and is eaten by the Indians, the silk plant, 
wildendive, wild olive, pink root, snake root, wild 
mint of three kinds, coloquintida (bitter apple) 
growing along the river side, clover, sheep's clo- 
ver, life everlasting, wild liquorice, marygold, mis- 
leto, thistle, wild hemp, bull rush, dittany, white 
and red poppy, yellow jessamine, poke, fern, capil- 
liar, honeysuckle, mosses, petu,to make ropes with, 
wormwood, hops, ipecacuanha, persicaria, Indian 
turnip, wild carrot, wild onion, ginger, wild cab- 
bage and bastard indigo. 



ANECDOTES. 

General Washington, wliile President of the 
United States sent an agent to t}ie Chypewyan 
Tribe, whose friendship it was requisite we sliould 
cultivate, to preserve the lucrative fur trade that 
we held with them. Washinj^ton, by his agent of- 
fered, that ** the United States would take two or 
three of the soiis of their chiefs and educate them 
in our Universities." When the agent had ex- 
ecuted the command, the Indians, who never gave an 
immediate answer on things that they think of 
importance, told him, " that they would think of it," 
and after a short time returned for answer, ** tliat 
they had consulted on the subject; and tliat they 
were of an opinion, that it would render tliem too 
effeminate to be educated in our colleges, as it 
would totally disqualify them to hunt or pursue the 
war, but in return for the civility of their brother 
Chief, Washington, that if he would send the sons 
of any of his chiefs among them, they would edu- 
cate them to pursue tlie chase for several days 
without eating, and to go without clothes in ex- 
treme cold weather, and in frosty nights to lie on 
the ground without covering, and every other 
thing requisite, to make them Indians, and men." 

About sixty years ago, the French missionaries 
and traders, having received many insults from the 
Sawkees, a party under the command of Capt. 
Morand, marched to revenge their wrongs. Tho 
Captain and his party set out from Green Bay, in 
the winter, when they were unsuspicious of a visit 
of this kind ; and pursuing his route over the snow- 
to their village, which lay about 60 miles up Fox 
river, came upon them by surprise. Unpi*e- 
pared as they were, he found them an easy con- 
quest, and consequently killed or took prisoners 
the greatest part of them. On the return of the 
French to Green Bay, one ofthcludiau chiefs iit 
Y 



^62 ANECDOTES. ^'^/' 

alliance with them, who had a considerable band of 
prisoners, under his care, stopped to drink at a 
brook ; in the mean time his companions went on, 
which being observed by one of the women, whom 
they had made captive, she suddenly seized him with 
both her hands, whilst he st joped to drink, by an 
exquisitely susceptible part, and held him fast till 
he expired on the spot. As the chief, from the ex- 
treme torture he suffered, was unable to,eall out to 
his friends, or to give any alarm, the-y passed on 
without knowing what had happened; and the 
woman having cut the bands of her fellow-prisoners, 
who were in the rear, with them made her escape. 
This heroine w as ever after treated by her nation as 
their deliverer, and made a chieftess in her own 
right, with the liberty to entail the same honour on 
liei' descendants ; an unusual distinction, and con- 
ferred only on extraordinary occasions. 

liev. J' Hubbard's compilation 
of Indian History. 

The Sioux Indians, and many other tribes, train 
up their children with the greatest rigour to render 
them almost invulnerable to the inclemency of the 
winter, and tue misfortunes that unavoidably be- 
fftl their m-ode of life : The children of the Sioux 
• tribe, when taken fi*om the breast of their mother, 
are compelled to lie on the floor like whelps, on 
gkins, and with very little covering. When grown 
older they bear incisions made on their bodies to 
try their fortitude, and to make tliem bear extreme 
torture as tho' they were inaccessible to pain.- 
These scars are thought with tliem ornamental, 
and those who bear the torture of them until their 
bodies are covered with a gore of blood, and with 
apparent pleasure, are much caressed by the spec- 
tators, wiio assemble to witness their heroism, and 
arc considered as initiated into the list of warriors. 
Parties of these young w arriors, are after tried 
in feats of daring bravery, and him who excels is 
considered as their chief warrior. The extrorae 
eold that they bear without a murmur is incredible 
to an European. 



